Author Topic: 2013 V7Racer breakdown (Read 6496 times)

V7Record · « **on:** September 26, 2015, 05:24:47 PM »

Out for a ride and taking off from an intersection when it started chugging and popping from the right cylinder and almost no power. Got through the intersection and into a parking lot. Let her cool down a bit, checked oil, looks fine. Starts again but not running right, doesn't want to rev or make power. Only a couple miles from home and waiting for wife to answer phone so I can get the trailer. Any suggestions on what to check? I've read about the "chugging" before and that it's a bad thing but don't remember specifics and searching the forum is tough on a cell phone. :)

mwrenn · « **Reply #1 on:** September 26, 2015, 05:59:42 PM »

Spark plug wire and plug Ok? It has fuel in it? Can you hear the fuel pump come on when you first turn the key?

Vasco DG · « **Reply #2 on:** September 26, 2015, 06:14:02 PM »

Interestingly this sounds very similar to an issue John at Motocicolo in Sydney was telling me about the other day. Said it had occurred to a handful of single TB V7's. They had no explanation but as I mentioned in another post by sending the MUIG3 NIP to the factory they were able to get an unlock code as used for Aprilias which allowed the ECU to be reflashed and get things working again.

In Oz the system is different in that us minions at the coal face don't have access to the factory direct, the importer acts as a 'Dealer' so in events like this we, the minions, send the NIP to the importer, they flick it off to Noale and next morning there's an email with the unlock code for that ECU in the inbox. This can be inserted into PADS and the unit reflashed. I would imagine in the US most, if not all, dealers have the ability to perform this task themselves.

No idea if this is actually your problem but if it was sudden and the symptoms sound similar to what John has experienced then it is certainly worth taking on board and investigating.

Pete

V7Record · « **Reply #3 on:** September 26, 2015, 07:43:08 PM »

Yes, it was very sudden. I'd ridden ~30 miles and just stopped at the light, no indication of a problem until I tried to ride off on green and then the bogging/backfire/popping.

Unfortunately while loading onto the trailer it lost power on the ramp and I couldn't get a foot down so it tipped over. Damaged the mirror, rear turn signal, and the exhaust pushed the lower end of the left rear shock clear off the lower mount. Lucky no worse than that.

I was planning to do the Distinguished Gentleman's Ride tomorrow, guess those plans are shot.

Brian

mwrenn · « **Reply #4 on:** September 26, 2015, 07:58:05 PM »

Darn, that sucks! Hope you can get her fixed up soon. Sounds like Pete is onto something with the re-flash...
I'm putting some Racetech shocks on my Racer next week. I have a pair of new Bitubo ones you can have if you want them. 175 miles on them...

Cam3512 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 26, 2015, 08:02:06 PM »

I'm at the MD rally this weekend, and a group of us went on a long twisty ride today. Was thrashing the '14 V7S. We stopped briefly and the bike was hot. Tried to restart and it seemed to run on one cylinder, and the oil light was on. - zero power. Turned it off and it took several tries before it fired up and all was normal. Has done this twice before in my 1 1/2 years of ownership. Each time, I had recently filled up the tank, then turned it off briefly when hot. Difficult to start, but no lasting problems. Puzzling.

JeffOlson · « **Reply #6 on:** September 26, 2015, 10:06:50 PM »

I am no mechanic, but it sounds like the problem I had with my Norge, which turned out to be a bad spark plug cap and/or wire (from the factory, or damaged at my first, 620 mile service?).

The tip-over also sounds like my Norge. Darn bikes!

V7Record · « **Reply #7 on:** September 27, 2015, 07:51:16 PM »

Thanks, mwrenn, but I think the shock is fine, just got pushed off the bushing. I'm surprised there wasn't a large washer on the inside to prevent the shock from just over-riding the bolt head. Note the scratches from the corners of the bolt head.

I just used a c-clamp to press it back together.

While working on it I decided to check the plugs, never had them out before. I was shocked that the plug boot is just pushed onto the plugwire, are they all like this? Are they supposed to be?

Thanks,
Brian

elvisboy77 · « **Reply #8 on:** September 27, 2015, 07:58:37 PM »

I'm guessing someone else will respond with even more detail, but the few times I've messed with a plug cap it has a screw sticking out of the bottom that you screw the wire or cable onto so it won't pull off, or else some sort of clamp to hold it down.

So sorry you are having trouble, hope you get it right soon.

V7Record · « **Reply #9 on:** September 27, 2015, 08:07:51 PM »

On a positive note I put it all back together and it starts and seems to run fine today. I only ran up the block and back so far. The plug boot had me wondering after a couple others mentioned plugs/wires as a possible source of the original bogging/backfire issue.

mwrenn · « **Reply #10 on:** September 27, 2015, 10:40:08 PM »

I just about bet that plug wire was the problem. The boot should screw into the wire, I attached a photo...
I would sure keep an eye on that shock, maybe disassemble it at some point and put a washer behind it, that sure could cause you some grief if it worked loose while riding...
Glad she's running now!

Yukonica · « **Reply #11 on:** September 27, 2015, 11:01:52 PM »

Had a very similar problem a while back. One cylinder, misfiring: pretty much what you described. Followed the sleuthing advice from several folks herein and found the problem was the leads and plug connector. Trimmed .33" off the lead ends and put everything back together while I waited for parts to arrive. Parts are still in the box:adding to my growing inventory of supplies.
And 'yes' the plug boots are cheesy press/twist-on's. I'll just be more careful how I treat them at tune-time.
Good luck with the repairs.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #12 on:** September 28, 2015, 06:16:41 AM »

That Shirley can't be right??

Yes, the plug lead/cap was probably the problem.

sib · « **Reply #13 on:** September 28, 2015, 07:46:43 AM »

Quote from: Chuck in Indiana on September 28, 2015, 06:16:41 AM

That Shirley can't be right??

Yes, the plug lead/cap was probably the problem.

What kind of shocks are those, they don't look like stock Bitubos. Something sure seems wrong about the lower mounting setup that allows the end to slip off like that.

motofoto · « **Reply #14 on:** September 28, 2015, 01:07:27 PM »

I just recently picked up a 2013 V7 Racer, and had the exact same symptom on the way home after the purchase after 50 miles of running perfectly. I'm going to do new plugcaps, and have a set of coils on the way as well. I'll update here if you like when/if I sort this out with mine. I'd also love to hear if you learn anything new about why yours went this way.

threebrits · « **Reply #15 on:** September 28, 2015, 01:48:14 PM »

I had a similar issue a while back. Came on suddenly too riding home from work. It was rough, backfiring and struggling and would die if I gave it too much gas, then it would surge over 4000 rpms. I had to feather the clutch the last 2 miles home to keep it from stalling. Checked the plug wires and it still had problems. I noticed the valves made more noise on one side than the other and the exhaust had a burnt smell to it. I remembered and old saying about "it's better to hear your valves than smell them" and thought that maybe this is what they meant. Sure enough, even though it was only 2,000 miles since the last service (which I didn't do myself) - they were way off on one side. I think the intake was too loose and the exhaust was way too tight on one side, the other side was just a little bit off. Completely fixed the issue and it now performs better at highways speeds than ever before.

My speculation is there is a threshold on the valves and once the threshold is crossed it all goes to hell at once.

V7Record · « **Reply #16 on:** September 28, 2015, 05:54:31 PM »

Thanks for all the input. Those are the stock bitubo shocks, never been touched before.

Maybe I'll cut off a little wire and reseat those boots again... and shop for new ones in the mean time.

It's also about time for a valve adjustment so I'll probably just go have it serviced and checked out proper.

Motofoto, please let me know what you figure out on your end.

Brian

motofoto · « **Reply #17 on:** September 28, 2015, 06:33:26 PM »

I just did the boot caps and plugs that were mentioned by the OP in this thread:

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=79143.0

This appears to have solved my issue, I didn't bother to switch my coils.

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #18 on:** September 28, 2015, 07:01:58 PM »

Are the plug wires copper core or the carbon resistor type?

V7Record · « **Reply #19 on:** September 28, 2015, 09:55:06 PM »

The plug wires appear to be stranded copper.

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #20 on:** September 29, 2015, 08:27:30 AM »

Quote from: V7Record on September 28, 2015, 09:55:06 PM

The plug wires appear to be stranded copper.

That's good, my EV had the nasty carbon stuff, it developed similar symptoms, a weak spark usually shows up under acceleration when it's harder for the spark to jump the plug gap.

Looking back at the picture you posted of the boot it's hard to see the screw thread, do you suppose it's been arcing in there and blackened it?

Seems like you are good to go then.

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Author Topic: 2013 V7Racer breakdown (Read 6496 times)

Vasco DG

elvisboy77

motofoto

motofoto