Typical electrical issues 99 Bassa?

[toukow]

I'm new to Guzzi, and just purchased a 99 Bassa with 16k miles which I have posted about. I've gone through it pretty much mechanically, but wondered about common issues on the electrical side.  Yes, I could use the search function, and do a statistical analysis by number of models sold, is the problem a primary or secondary issue, etc. Given many of you have over 10,000 posts, I somewhat hoped a few of you can offer comments on such things in your sleep.

I do not intend on upgrading components per like alternator or starter until I have such issues, but am looking for more basic ideas to address while I have her on the bike lift. Thought I'd read about (but not sure if the comments were model specific) things like ECM connector corrosion, and issues with electrical relays- are these usually just replaced? Do they tend to have ground connection issues, that sort of thing?  Anyway, if there are such things that should be addressed, I'd appreciate your comments. Thanks, Dean

[Chuck in Indiana]

They're pretty reliable. You *need* to put a dedicated ground wire from the regulator case to a bolt on the timing cover. Relays have probably already been replaced, or get them (cheap) from DPGuzzi.com
Just your usual taking apart all the connectors, squirting some DeOxit on them, wiggling them around, etc. Clean up the main ground at the frame, put a little Vaseline on it. I think that pretty much covers it.

[John A]

I like to put relays on the headlight and brake light , not really necessary but makes the switches last longer

[John Ulrich]

No issues with mine.   

[Wayne Orwig]

The main feed from the alternator up to the regulator has two 'bullet' connectors. Make sure those are tight when you check on the regulator ground.

The rear brake light socket is plastic. It doesn't do well with the heat from the bulb. Consider adding a GOOD LED.

As mentioned, relays from DPGuzzi.com

[Rich A]

The insulation on the wires coming from the base of the fuel level sensor on the tank can get hard and crack. Clean the area and put some silicone on the wires to prevent that from being a problem. This is not specific to the Bassas.

Rich A

[Kiwi_Roy]

Ty-wrap the wires of the electric petcock to the body so they don't flex where they come out of the coil.
What ever you do don't mix up the fuel sensor plug with the petcock plug.
Like most Guzzis they also suffer from Startus Interuptus, easily fixed by a small wiring change.

[John A]

Wayne, what is your recommendation of a good LED to replace an 1157 ?. I am ignorant of them and wouldn't know one if it fell off the shelf and hit me in the foot. I just got some from tryn'save and seem to work ok. Thanks

[Murray]

I like to put relays on the headlight and brake light , not really necessary but makes the switches last longer

Guzzi's have relays on the headlight since at least the mid 90's. The relays are not really an issue way back in 2000/2001 the V11 sports were affect by a dud batch, this batch has since spread to just about all 90's guzzi models and most of the 00 models. Well the claim of the problem has spread the problem never did. Depending on how much its ridden in the rain the switch gear will fill up with road grime and stop working (thanks Honda switch gear you really suck). The relays can be affected buy corrosion on the contacts a bit of a clean up and all will be good again. It is at the end of the day a 17 year old motorcycle so a lot will depend on how its been stored ridden and looked after more than anything else.

Cranking the snot out of the starter motor for extended periods will melt the glue holding the magnets to the body and make a mess, 10 sec at a time I think is the general consensus. If it has sat for a long time the fuel will turn to varnish and choke up the fuel pump although this is all fuel injected motorcycles. The was also an issue with the ignition lock on some of the EV models the retaining ring backing off and abandoning ship I can't remember exact years this tended to happen.

[John A]

I just add a relay circuit and use the existing relays and switches to operate the added relays. That way I get the benefit of a dedicated power feed to the light and I can return it to stock configuration just by removing the circuit.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Headlight Relays - a couple of options.
Option 1
Add one relay to the headlight bucket fed from the existing headlight relay under the side-cover
This relay has the high beam on Normally open contact and the low beam on Normally closed
One wire from the dimmer switch to the coil of the relay selects High or Low, the other wire is insulated.
This will boost the headlight brightness by 10% or more.

Option 2
Supply 2 relays from the large red wire that goes to the ignition switch, one for high, one for low with the coils fed from the original feed via dimmer switch

BTW I recommend adding a 40 Amp in-line fuse to the red wire at the battery end just in case of shorts in the aging wiring.

[John A]

Good explanation,Roy. what kind of LEDs would you recommend if I go to the trouble of ordering a quantity and change over all the bikes?

[toukow]

Whoa, whoa, you guys have really taught me a lesson, and I'm going to go back to my 'ignorance is bliss' routine which has gotten me this far! Not well, mind you, but here at least.

As far as I can tell from its condition, the bike has been stored inside most of its life, but it never hurts to check out the operational switches. Just had issues on the 95 VFR in this area, but its seen tons of rain. The electrical panel doesn't look too bad.

Thanks for the input and I'll check into each of the various points made. With the weather here, I've got time. Thanks to Kiwi_Roy for the email information, and educating me that I have the later model control module. I may look into the LED tail light replacement too. I appreciate all the input, Dean

[Wayne Orwig]

Wayne, what is your recommendation of a good LED to replace an 1157 ?. I am ignorant of them and wouldn't know one if it fell off the shelf and hit me in the foot. I just got some from tryn'save and seem to work ok. Thanks

I got a 5 watt one from superbrightleds.com
At the time, they had a 3 watt and a 5 watt. The 3 watt one was not as bright as the original, and the 5 watt one was brighter than the original.
They no longer carry those models, and rate them differently.

[John A]

Sounds like it's a roll of the dice, changing technology and all that....