T3 Distributor problem

[Gino]

I've owned this T3 for just over a year, bought it to ride it but it's needed way too much attention, nuts and bolts loose all over, oil leaks as well although it has run ok. I say ok but I also have a mk1 &3 lemans which I can get to run like a watch, this thing was a bit rough. Yesterday took a day off work for some sanity and spent the day replacing leaking oil hose and doing the timing. End of day the thing wouldn't start, learn't long ago to walk away. Tonight just checked and the distributor isn't turning, further check reveals the spacers between the crankcase and distributor aren't there which of course means I over tightened it. . What a Pain, so guys apart from why didn't you notice in the first place what do you think? I'm assuming I need to crab the frame to get the distributor out? May need to go down the queue as I have a Norton Commando needing work first

[Perazzimx14]

No need to support the motor to lift the dist. out. Simply remove the gas tank loosen both 13mm bolts on either side of the base of the dist.. Now swing the "hold down" bracket counter clockwise off the base of the dist and then simply pull it out.

[Gino]

Good to know, the Haynes manual says you have to lift the frame but I'll do as you say and wrestle it out
Thanks

[fotoguzzi]

, this thing was a bit rough.

mileage? you might need a timing chain and tensioner.

[Gino]

Allegedly 36k, can't hear the usual chain slap I've heard before. I know what you mean but I didn't buy it to renew everything, want some miles as payback before I start ripping it apart. Plenty other bikes but bought this because I sold one for the deposit on my first flat (apartment)
A few months later I bought a Commando to replace the one I traded for my mk1 Le Mans, which I then traded to go racing , which is why I had the T3 then, after that I bought a Mk1 Le Mans again, reliving my youth when I was still in my 20's ! You get the picture 

[acogoff]

   As Foto says, Timing Chain Tensioner is most likley in need of attention. Don't know what you mean by spacers under the dizzy, all that is there is a gasket and the hold down strap. **Edit.- I stand corrected, the parts book shows a couple 91180907 spacers that level out the clamping bar and prevent too much down pressure on the dizzy casting as it is tightened down. Had a look at my old sled and they appear to be about .350 inch high bushings.

[Hahnda]

There is a couple of spacer that go between the hold down plate and the block.

Even with that plate removed the distributor won't turn?

[Gino]

Exactly those spacers are missing , Saturday tomorrow so I'll investigate further, many thanks for all replies

[Gino]

If anyone could give me an exact size for the spacers it would be appreciated, don't suppose any guzzi people here have them so I'll get a pair made

Surprise gutsibits have come up with the goods, I'll keep you guys posted with progress, many thanks......again 

[Tom]

After taking the distributor out.  You should be able to spin it.  Make sure you note/mark where the points are before removing.  The springs may need replacing.  Easy to do.

[chuck peterson]

there is a roll pin holding on the gear at the bottom of the diz...i suppose that could have snapped...naw, not likely

[Gino]

Stripped it today, roll pin sheared, stripped the distributor, hopefully get the parts needed to make it good again, and managed to get the distributor out no problem by taking the hrs carb off , makes it easier . Thanks again 

[Hahnda]

Those spacers are 8mm thick.

[jacksonracingcomau]

Stripped it today, roll pin sheared, stripped the distributor, hopefully get the parts needed to make it good again, and managed to get the distributor out no problem by taking the hrs carb off , makes it easier . Thanks again 

Note originally they didn't use a roll pin to hold gear on, it would be better termed a rivet, they did use a roll pin to hold spacer & shims

I use a roll pin to hold gear on too, funny thing I couldn't get metric roll pins to fit, actually use std english size pins 1/8" I think, get them long, cut with hacksaw to exact length

Mine have lasted 25 years + so can't see them failing like rivets occasionally do, they fit tight, carrying a spare not bulky

[fotoguzzi]

Mine have lasted 25 years + so can't see them failing like rivets occasionally do, they fit tight, carrying a spare not bulky

[Gino]

I noticed it's more rivet like, got parts now, will rebuild & report back
Thanks guys