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There are no obvious defects on the original parts except for plating loss on one of the dampers.
Do you mean plating loss on one of the fork tubes? Same thing happeded to the SP that I just rebuilt the front end on for a customer. Two new fork tubes, FAC dampers, Wirth springs, new seals and dust wipers, Tarozzi brace. Completely changed the way the front forks worked. Went from flacid to firm. The 150 miles I put on it, they were a bit too firm for my liking, but I know from experience they "break-in" and ride much better. I bought the brace from Fast from the Past: http://www.fastfromthepast.com/28-0010 and it made a noticeable improvement in rigidity. With the brace loose, I could tweek the front end pretty good when it was on the lift, clamped in the wheel vise. Brace screws tightened up and it was much more stiff. One tip regarding FAC installation: don't use the hex nut that they provide to lock the damper rod to the extension rod. It's a 13 mm hex and doesn't fit down through the coils of the springs without rubbing. Reuse the 11 mm hex nuts from the old dampers for best results.
No it's the damper, the 'plating' flaked off on one only. The fork tubes are in great shape. Seems like the fork brace is another important piece. Might you have a picture of the SP with the fork brace installed? Thanks for the information.
While I have my forks apart for new seals I'm considering upgrading to new FAC dampers with progressive rate springs. A little background - it's an '80 1000SP [50k] which I bought new when I was a lot younger.
BTW, I've seen a couple posts concerning trouble or disappointment with progressive springs.Bought new - Cool history! And Charlie's SP looks great too.
I replaced worn out dampers with Bitubos and then added Wirth progressive springs on my 90 Mille.
I didn't take many photos of that job, this is the only one that shows the bike with the brace on.
The LMIII (1983) has cartridge dampers and two piece springs. I think the SP1000 has the dampers, but not sure of the two piece springs.7 years ago I replaced the longer (upper) springs using those recommended in Guzziology (yellow paint?) and they corrected the ride height. Don't remember having any other strong impressions - just seemed to work right. Last spring I replaced the original dampers with FACs and noticed a big difference. The rebound damping on the OEM cartridges was shot so the FACs made the bike feel more "planted" on the road - and the front didn't bob up so quick from a stop. FACs also transformed the handling of my Monza too. Both bikes feel less "nervous" on uneven surfaces. Disassembled the OEM dampers on the LMIII (and Monza). OEM dampers have an air bladder with a projection on the end that pushes into an oil port. Apparently increasing the air pressure slows the passage of oil through the port increasing the damping (compression damping I think). The air bladder also keeps the oil and air separate so there is less opportunity for the oil to foam when the damper is working hard. I found the old air bladders were deformed asymmetrically and didn't seat in the port - in fact it looked like the bladders were slightly longer than the space needed so had deformed when installed at the factory. I'd bet that the OEM bladders lose their ability to seat in a very few years after manufacture due to the asymmetric deformation. Additionally one bladder had a hole so no longer kept air out of the oil. I wouldn't use OEM dampers - especially ones that have been sitting on a shelf for years. I found the FAC dampers were something like $20 more than OEM dampers.A fork brace is a big improvement. I noticed the difference on the first 90 degree corner I rolled through. The bike seemed to turn into the corner easier and follow the line better. And this was at about 15 mph from one city street to another. The LMIII and Monza forks are very similar and I blogged rebuilding the Monza forks on WG. You may find it helpful: http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=75441.0Hint: it's much faster to refill the fork legs with 70cc fork oil if you use a syringe and inject it from the bottom rather than dribbling it down between the damper and the inside of the fork leg.
Thanks for the information; beautiful bike!