1200 Sport gas tank removal

[willowstreetguzziguy]

Planning on routing some wires under the gas tank over Christmas break and need to take it off. I've got some fairly detailed pictures and instructions on doing it. Any tips you can pass on concerning the "red elbow" connection under the tank and getting it off and back on?

[mphcycles]

un plug fuel pump wiring. start bike. bike will stall ina few seconds when pressure goes away. Then push the line ONTO the fitting, while squeezing the sleeve,( white part) into the line side of the coupler. It should come off with no effort.

[Chuck in Indiana]

It should come off with no effort.

Yes, it *should.* It won't, of  course. After about 10 minutes of tearing your hair, it'll just fall apart.   

[Bisbonian]

Yes, it *should.* It won't, of  course. After about 10 minutes of tearing your hair, it'll just fall apart.   

This is definitely correct.

[willowstreetguzziguy]

That doesn't sound too promising or good!?!

[ohiorider]

Ck your pm's.  I sent you a bunch of old posts describing how to do the job.

Bob

[tpeever]

Planning on routing some wires under the gas tank over Christmas break and need to take it off. I've got some fairly detailed pictures and instructions on doing it. Any tips you can pass on concerning the "red elbow" connection under the tank and getting it off and back on?

Spray some WD40 on it first

[twodogs]

Take your time with the not so quick disconnect, when you get frustrated take a break and start over, you'll get the hang of it. LOL. Everything else comes apart like normal.
P.S. take the four screws out up front before putting it on the lift, it will save you some time:)

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

It works just like a quick-disconnect chuck on a compressed air hose... Not sure why so many ppl struggle with these. Take your time and remember 'more pressure' is never the answer on plastic parts.. You'll be fine :-)

[drums4money]

It works just like a quick-disconnect chuck on a compressed air hose...  and remember 'more pressure' is never the answer on plastic parts.. You'll be fine :-)

Heed the Mayor's advice.
That's the analogy that helped me most.

Well- a 3rd hand would've helped me the most, but that's another matter for medical science.

[boatdetective]

I've done a Griso as well as my 1200s. Don't F around- just go to Autozone and buy a new connector for $10. Problem solved.
While the tank is off, replace the fuel filter in the tank(look it up. The OEM is half plastic and swells with ethanol gas). Just get a standard fuel filter from autozone. I wound up buying a set of fuel inj pliers and pinch clamps. Well worth it.
The 1200s tank will swell slightly and may be difficult to reinstall. Essentially, you'll have a hard time reinstalling the act machine screw.  Take the screw and grind a bit of a point on the end (helps it to lead into an off center hole).  Next. Take arachet strap and run it around the tank to jack it forward. This will get the hole to line back up.

[willowstreetguzziguy]

go to Autozone and buy a new connector for $10. Problem solved.
While the tank is off, replace the fuel filter in the tank(look it up. The OEM is half plastic and swells with ethanol gas). Just get a standard fuel filter from autozone. I wound up buying a set of fuel inj pliers and pinch clamps. Well worth it.

Are you talking about replacing the red elbow and / or the grey collar? Also, is the fuel filter difficult to get to in the tank?. 

[Bisbonian]

Are you talking about replacing the red elbow and / or the grey collar? Also, is the fuel filter difficult to get to in the tank?.

The fuel filter isn't difficult but you will want to replace the clamps. They are the single-use crimp type.

I went down to the parts store and bought a Wix filter, something like $5. I bought the clamps somewhere online and as a consequence I have some extras. They sell a special tool for the clamps but I just used some side-cutters to do the job, the clamps are plenty robust.

It's easiest if the tank is empty, I set it upside down on a moving pad I use for pretty much everything. Remove the plate on the bottom and then bring out the pump/filter assembly. It may take a bit of fiddling to get the pump assembly out with the filter attached but it will come out. On the 1200 Sport you can reuse the standard hose, no need to buy anything new. If you do decide you want to replace the hose be sure you get the stuff that is meant for submersion in fuel, otherwise it will deteriorate from the outside in. The correct hose was very expensive in my neck of the woods and nobody wanted to order a roll just so I could buy a foot.

[canuguzzi]

If it like the rest of them including the Norge, the push/pull does not work because there is a detent series on the connector that is easy to break.

Go visit Guzzitek and there is a detailed although short procedure. You can use a paperclip to depress the little clips and then it is easily removed. It should take you all of 15 seconds to do it.

Or you can start hacking and breaking and replacing the connector.

It really is simple to do. Takes longer to explain how to do it than actually get it done.

[ken farr]

Yes, it *should.* It won't, of  course. After about 10 minutes of tearing your hair, it'll just fall apart.   

That has been my experience.
I have found that cursing, randomly and somewhat softly is the key to the whole operation.

After your done, research the board on BMW quick connects, forget about it, then repeat next time......

kjf

[ken farr]

I've done a Griso as well as my 1200s. Don't F around- just go to Autozone and buy a new connector for $10. Problem solved.
While the tank is off, replace the fuel filter in the tank(look it up. The OEM is half plastic and swells with ethanol gas). Just get a standard fuel filter from autozone. I wound up buying a set of fuel inj pliers and pinch clamps. Well worth it.
The 1200s tank will swell slightly and may be difficult to reinstall. Essentially, you'll have a hard time reinstalling the act machine screw.  Take the screw and grind a bit of a point on the end (helps it to lead into an off center hole).  Next. Take arachet strap and run it around the tank to jack it forward. This will get the hole to line back up.

On my B1100, I took the front rubber pads-discks that the tank slides on and reduced the O.D. on a belt sander.
Then hit them with some WD40, and the tank slides back on like it should.  The tank is still secure.  When I take the tank
off, I hit the rubber pads with some more WD and all is good.

kjf

[menzies]

The only vendor I could find that stocked the proper fuel line was at a foreign car garage in Huntsville, AL. I think the fuel line was  $10-12 a foot, I bought extra. I had been to all the chain auto parts stores to include NAPA, not many even know what I was speaking off.

Just my experience, hope it helps someone.

[Charles in Lake Charles]

Ask for hose that meets the SAE 30R10.

[Mackers]

The clamps on my B11 were Oetiker ear clamps.
: http://toolmonger.com/2010/02/08/oetiker-ear-clamps-and-tools/

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

The only vendor I could find that stocked the proper fuel line was at a foreign car garage in Huntsville, AL. I think the fuel line was  $10-12 a foot, I bought extra. I had been to all the chain auto parts stores to include NAPA, not many even know what I was speaking off.

Just my experience, hope it helps someone.

it's also available on Amazon.com in 1ft lengths.

also, everyone who mentioned the oetker clamps is dead on.  I ordered and assortment on the internet and use a cheap advance auto CV joint boot clamping tool, but dykes/sidecut pliers work well also.  If you try to find those locally, you can try brewers supply or a homebrew shop... most auto stores dont carry them.

[boatdetective]

The clamps on my B11 were Oetiker ear clamps.
: http://toolmonger.com/2010/02/08/oetiker-ear-clamps-and-tools/

That's what they call them. The assorted kit was not much money. One of those tools where the first time you use it- you will be very glad you bought it. Very secure, low profile, and exc clamping pressure.

As for the OEM "quick" disconnect- although the "correct" method should only take seconds, my experience has been (along with many others here) anything but. The design available at your local store is a single push button- not four separate ones. As you are getting the Oetiker clamps anyway, splicing in a new connector is faster than messing with the OEM with the added benefit of tossing the original. Do not discount the sweet sound of that shyte piece of hardware pinging on the bottom of your trash bin.

All in all, this project is pretty easy and has a high satisfaction to effort ratio. Have fun with it.

[willowstreetguzziguy]

I'm stuck. I can't seem to disconnect the grey collar at the red elbow under the tank. I've tried pushing the black line into the grey collar but can't get it to disengage. Suggestions...