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Thinly disguised bump because I don't know. I *do* know that because of the split crankcase in the small block there is a lot of oil pumped through the heads and breather system. You'll need a return to the crankcase from the breather.
If you have ever run a Guzzi engine with a valve cover off, you have seen how much oil fog is being flung around. It got my attention immediately when my glasses got covered in oil. The breather system has a very big job to do on these engines. A lot of engineering has been done on the stock breather system that should be appreciated. Way more complex than first meets the eye, I would say.
Not sure about any of drawings but system works as is, best way to remove "clutter" is blank off rocker breathers, crimp / weld ends on breather or fit small hose connecting them.Then it's like originally intended in 1967, rocker breathers were an answer to problem that never existed.Do use (clear) catch tank, it is instant way of seeing any accumulated oil, if open a few ounces of oil on engine/exhaust or ground looks like a major problem.A full catch tank is.But be sure to have gearbox breather at top of tank otherwise any engine oil in tank will syphon into gearbox, leak will show at rear drive box (ask me how I know)So in short, replicate exactly what you have but without rocker breathers, simple , big hose with PCV breaths, small hose returns the condensate under the oil levelBoth these on top of bell housing
And I am currently trying to figure out if the rocker breathers allows oil to flow in or out of the rocker cover ?
The idea at time was more venting for casessquare engines got weirder, was drain(under head) for frame breather but u bend was mayo trap, system failure when this happensOn roundies & early square the drain behind clutch is all you need, without this an external drain a la 1100Sp will work wellDon't reinvent the wheel, just copy what you have without rocker breather (or leave it alone - it works) I've seen more breather systems ruined by "tuners" than ever seen any improvement, what exactly are you trying to gain ?Work on wiring instead, tons of crap to clean up there + you'll make it better not worse.Or suspension or brakes, plenty or room to improve without changing bits that work.Ago made a "hidden" under tank big breather box, I used to run one, works as well as the OE one but with longer hoses to perish.Copy that if you like long rubber hoses with formed bends in them but buy spares, you'll need them.
We're talking small block here, Martin.. it is entirely different than the big block. Blocking off the valve covers is a bad idea. They even cast tits on the valve covers over the valves for the oil to coalesce and drip off on them. Except the Lario. At any rate, the pumping action of the split crankcase is nothing like the big block.
Which printed model are you using? I've been 3D printing in PLA, ABS, and to a very limited extent, nylon for 3-4 years on my Ultimaker. Have you printed and verified water tight parts? It's not exactly easy to do and of course its required for this part.The print material will be critical in that it can survive a constant oil bath, under tank temps, and print water tight. I think nylon would be my choice for chemical compatibility, but it is notoriously difficult to print with. ABS might be OK. With that, you can post process with acetone to congeal the surfaces to be smooth and non-porous. PLA prints beautifully, but won't survive the oil for long, and will slump when it is exposed to even mildly hot temps.
