Battery Woes

[davedel44]

Few weeks ago battery died on my ’04 Stone.  Battery was 6 years and even when charged would only charge to about 12.5 volts.  I bit the bullet and bought the appropriate Odyssey battery as a replacement.  Went on several short rides all seemed fine.
Ready to ride again last week and bike would not start.  Turned over very slowly, then started clicking.
Turned off key then noticed that oil pressure light dimly lit.  Bike was on center stand, bars turned to left, fork not locked.
Move bars slightly right light off.   Back to left light on.  Removed plastic cover right side between tank and fork.  Light off.
Charged battery for a few hours and bike started.  Oil light shined brightly when key turned on went off after the engine turned over a few times.
Three questions
Chaffed wire Right?
Would the light draw enough current to drain the new battery over a two-week period?
I have traced the wires from light to a connector near the tank, they’re bundled with a bunch of other wires and everything is covered in a plastic taped together.   Must I cut the casing off this wire sausage and visually inspect the suspect wires or is there some easier way to find the chaffed spot, assuming that that is the root cause of the battery drain.
Keep in mind I am mightily challenged as a mechanic.
Respectfully Submitted,
Dave
Galveston

[canuguzzi]

Disconnect the battery and use a continuity tester on each wire you suspect. If they all show good, visual inspection to see if it is a position sensitive thing is needed.

First though, with the position that puts the light out, check the continuity, might save you time hunting for it.

Then check by testing continuity moving the test probes close to one another to isolate where the short is.

Remember, test continuity with batter disconnected.

[canuguzzi]

While you're at it, with the battery disconnected but fully charged, remove the surface charge by connecting some 12 volt device to it or let it sit for as day. Then check it's voltage. Then check it under a load for a gimme idea if the battery is still good. If the voltage drops really fast and far under a load, suspect the battery as compromised. Fast and far would be a drop to 11.8-12 with no recovery past 12.2-12.4 with no load.

If you need a step by step, PM me and I'll send you one. Might save you from sitting along side the road with a non cranker.

[davedel44]

Thanks NP

I'll have some time to fool with it tomorrow.

Dave
Galveston

[giusto]

Turned off key then noticed that oil pressure light dimly lit.  Bike was on center stand, bars turned to left, fork not locked.
Move bars slightly right light off.   Back to left light on.  Removed plastic cover right side between tank and fork.  Light off.
Charged battery for a few hours and bike started.  Oil light shined brightly when key turned on went off after the engine turned over a few times.
Respectfully Submitted,
Dave
Galveston

Dave I went through something very similar just a month or so ago. Kiwi-Roy told me to look at the ignition switch directly under the key assembly (leave it in place) remove two screws and inspect the wires going into the switch from underneath...inspec t the movement of the wire cluster under the switch to be sure it doesn't bind. Have a look at all the connections...that's where my culprit was and behaved very similarly...turn the bars or move the bike, and on and off it went. I can send photos of the this as Kiwi Roy sent them to me in separate email if you like.

Thanks again Roy

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes it might be a wire broken off the switch and touching another wire, that could soon discharge the battery
for example if battery is 15 Amp hours and bulb draws 1/4 Amp
15 / 0.25 =  60 hours and that's assuming it was 100% charged to start with

Put the bike on the center stand and watch the loom as you move the bars from lock to lock, the loom should flex gently over several inches, no sharp bending.
The wires going into the ignition switch should not twist inside it or they will snap right at the solder joint, immobilize them so they twist gently away from the switch.

While you have it off give the switch a lube job with Vaseline.


If you do have to open the main loom tug hard on each wire in turn, if the copper is broken the wire will stretch and break.

[Mike Tashjian]

If your wires are chafing, I doubt it would be anywhere but on the outside of the bundle. I am voting for the switch too, but since it is easy to verify I would.  Easy to put a light bulb between the positive terminal and the connector.  If you are drawing any power the light will light, dim for a small load and bright for a big one. Turning the bars with a bulb connected will  lead you in the right direction fast.  Mike

[davedel44]

Thanks Gusito, Kiwi and Mike I'll take another gander today.  I hadn't even considered anything to do with ignition switch.
Thanks again,
Dave
Galveston

[giusto]

Let us know how it all turns out.

[davedel44]

2004 Stone

Today I checked continuity between the connector to the oil light that was acting up (on handle bars left off right,  off when plastic piece between tank and forks removed).
Had a bit of time getting to light socket finally ended pulling out the rubber plug.  Have continuity in both wires.

Examined wires at switch.  Everything seems securely soldered.

How do I use a multi-meter to check if there is still a drain? 

and where is the oil sensor? 

Thanks
Dave
Galveston


and where can I source idiot light bulbs?

[cruzziguzzi]

Battery blues... I gots 'em.

  Battery woes?... They come to me in throes!

The Rover won't turn over and Carbi-Fornia, I electro mourn ya...

  Let's try another motor, I'm feelin' like a caucus voter.

Mercedes cell ain't doin well, got 12 volts all day while amps just slip away...

  Its lead is too dear, I may pop next year.

If my Calvin had  'nuff crankin', that's the batt' I'd next be yankin'...

   ... to get the Hugger started, since its cell and starting parted.

Cub cadet I haven't tried yet, but hope it wanes now...

   ... 'sides, it's too wet for the plow.

Today the diesel fell, 2 batts at once... HELL!

   I'll jump it with the Jeep, it too gives not a peep!

You say your cells swell, your gel's not doin' well...

   ... I'll say I'll match ya, I'm in electro hell.

No, really, like the cascading appliance failures far too many of us are familiar with, I'm trying to find a serious "to my door" volume discount for all these and a couple more to boot.


Todd.

[Chuck in Indiana]

^^^^ Good un, Todd. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

How do I use a multi-meter to check if there is still a drain? 

Very Carefully

Seriously, the milliamp range has a very small fuse that will pop without you knowing and make the current zero by default.

Take the battery negative off
Connect meter between battery and chassis, don't turn anything on or the meter fuse will pop.

A safe way to start is use a small 12 Volt lamp between the battery and chassis, if there's any significant leakage the lamp will glow, connect the meter in series with the lamp, turn the key on and you will see the current going trough the lamp proving the meter fuse is ok, turn the key off and the meter will show the leakage, the lamp will act as a current limit.
A 12V LED (or a regular LED in series with a 1k resistor) will give you a good idea, it only needs about 0.2 mA to light quite brightly, that's not much of a leak.
Again turn on the key to prove the lamps working, turn the key off, if the lamp goes out you're good to go.
(use a regular LED in series with a 1k resistor)

[canuguzzi]

If you don't have a small 12 volt lamp, one of those LED strip lights will work just as well. Most you can cut down to a single led and then just use that. It takes very little current to light them up.

[cruzziguzzi]

and where can I source idiot light bulbs?

I am agast and amazed!

Shocked and tertiarily offended.

In this day and age, under the gilding of sensitivity based enlightenment... that you might be so crude spurns tears of unsolicited grief!

"I" word light bulbs?!?

They are, I would have you know, intellectually differing devices of illumination.

I expect a sufficiently effusive apology to be forthcoming in the presence of any one of several franchise holding, outrage entities.

Remember, Dim Bulbs Matter

Todd.

[oldbike54]

 "Intellectually differing devices of illumination" 

  Actually the lights are idiots 


  Dusty

[cruzziguzzi]

"Intellectually differing devices of illumination" 

  Actually the lights are idiots 


  Dusty

There are no idiot lights but there are idiotic shadows.


Todd.

[oldbike54]

There are no idiot lights but there are idiotic shadows.


Todd.

 OK then , ignorance lights , as they have naught clue as to what , only the sensation of something awry .

 Dusty

[canuguzzi]

Never mind the 11 volts short of a battery crowd, between testing the difference between DC and AC with wet fingers and diaper changing somewhere the light bulbs did faintly glow.

[cruzziguzzi]

OK then , ignorance lights , as they have naught clue as to what , only the sensation of something awry .

 Dusty

So, my ever flickering Crudorado light is essentially telling me:

"Uh, hey Todd, you should..., nevermind, er, on second thought.... look, a puppy. Oh yeah, Todd, that - fuggit 'bout it... hold on..."

It's the Foster Brooks of dash components.

Todd.

[canuguzzi]

And then when the butcher yelled crap, the faithful always came sliding in.

[Kiwi_Roy]

This must be an inside joke,

Someone enlighten me.

[Mackers]

Replace the relays with a set from Pyro Dan.

[twhitaker]

and where can I source idiot light bulbs?

I would imagine that Mike Haven still has a few 'Dash Indicator Lights' in stock. If that's not too far away. 

[cruzziguzzi]

This must be an inside joke,

Someone enlighten me.

To further illuminate the subject might take an expert... Ask Pete, he conduit.

As far as sourcing a less abled, warning glow-ball... Try an outlet store.


Todd.

[davedel44]

Found some chaffed wires in two locations.

Thanks for the help guys.

Dave
Galveston