Author Topic: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal  (Read 3475 times)

Offline welshrob

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V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« on: February 20, 2016, 08:02:38 AM »
I had the tyres changed on my V7 today, put another pair of Lasertecs on, because they are fine for what the bike does. I went to a Triumph dealership as they were the only one that carried the right size (same as a Thruxton) and they have a good reputation, I take my Triumph Explorer there.

They called me out half way through the job, which is never good, because they wanted to show me something. They had to remove the final drive, to get the wheel off. They said it was the only way to do it on V7`s and a search on here says that they my be right. They informed me that the two o rings should be changed when you do this and naturally they don`t have them in stock because they are, and I quote, "Imperial Sizes." Huh?

This sounds a bit odd, to me, especially on a European bike. So my questions are, do you need to change the o rings every time you do this? And are they indeed imperial sized?

I`m not stressed, the final drive doesn`t appear to be leaking and I`ve now done 100km since they put it back, but if this IS the case, then I`ll get some genuine ones in advance, next time I need the rear tyre changing.

Offline Pfaff!

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2016, 09:21:17 AM »
Done that often on my 03 Breva. You dont NEED to demount the final drive but its the easiest way. Never changed any o-rings, and the box still doesnt leak.
But what should be done when the box is of, is greasing the splines.
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Offline jackson

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2016, 10:16:30 AM »
I have a 2010 V7 Classic (wire wheels) and recently replaced both tires (did the job myself).  I previously owned a 2007 Breva 750 and also replaced the tires myself on that bike.  The Breva rear wheel would come off easily without removing the rear drive but removing the rear drive on the Classic was by far, the easiest and less time consuming method of getting the wheel off.  I have never heard or read anything re. replacing the O-rings and therefore have never replaced them when I removed the drive shaft; I've never had a problem that developed after removing/replacing the rear drive.  I do grease the clean the splines and re-grease them while I have it off of the bike.
I wouldn't worry about it.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2016, 11:09:20 AM by jackson »
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Offline Bravo Sierra

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2016, 11:21:24 AM »
Well that shows my ignorance when I changed the tires on my V7. I have cast rims on a special, my preference. I removed the left exhaust and shock and the wheel came off fine. Putting the little crush drive things in and getting them lined up was less than fun but I never considered taking off the final drive.

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Online Zinfan

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2016, 11:26:54 AM »
Yeah the cush drive rubbers made it a bit tricky to put in via the left side only so I take the final drive off now and use the opportunity to check and grease the splines.  It worked in my favor when I pulled the final drive off one time for a tire change just after a ride in the rain and found that my rubber boot had a hole in it and there was water in the shaft.

Offline malik

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2016, 04:51:04 PM »
I now do all my tyre changes myself. It's good practice for the open road. The final drive does NOT NEED to come off. Although the rear wheel may be a tight fit between the swingarm (some tyres tighter than others) a bit of wiggling works, and a little more elevation and/or lean to the left will enable the wheel to clear the mudguard. In reassembly, the cush rubbers can be a pain. A little grease helps hold them in. Sometimes, I just don't get it right away, but a walk-away, a smoke and a cuppa seems to do the trick.

That being said, while the wheel is off, I do remove the final drive from the swingarm to grease the drive shaft. When removing the final drive, don't let the swingarm drop hard by itself, lower it gently by hand, or risk the square edge of the swingarm breaking the gearshift shaft. (This probably doesn't apply to the V7 II). If you do happen to break that shaft, the cheapest & easiest replacement is a Weber carburretor piece the same length. I don't replace the O rings, merely bolt it back up again, and no leaks to date.
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Offline welshrob

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2016, 08:09:33 PM »
Thanks, for all the replies!  :thumb:

Offline steamdriven NZ

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2016, 10:52:31 PM »
For the cush drive rubbers, lift the wheel to the right height, slide the axle through then slide the wheel across to the right up to the rubbers. Position yourself to the rear of the bike if not already there.
While holding some side pressure on the hub, to the right against the rubbers, push the rubbers away fore and aft from one drive lug, it will just enter. Keep the side pressure on and rotate the wheel to show the next lug. Repeat cush rubber exercise. Keep pressure on.  Once you have done all of them the wheel will slide all the way over to be fully engaged. 

Total fit time for that exercise: less than one minute  :cheesy:

PS. Mineral oil or grease on rubber components can cause the rubber to degrade. They can go all gooey and soft and turn to mush.
I had an oil container in the back of my truck that leaked a bit and my new spare tyre was lying in it for about a month and it was already starting to go soft on the outer layer of the sidewall.
I know there are rubber parts that are designed to resist oil but I don't know if those cush drive rubbers would be one of them, considering they are meant to never see oil. Just a thought.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2016, 10:58:42 PM by steamdriven NZ »
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Offline Mackers

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Offline sign216

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2016, 08:47:22 AM »
I've done it and never had a problem by keeping the old gaskets in place.
You can leave the final drive in place, but sometimes it is easier to remove it.

Here's a tutorial a wrote.  Double click on the photos to get the text :  https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625569987011
« Last Edit: February 22, 2016, 08:48:32 AM by sign216 »
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Offline Kev m

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2016, 09:24:06 AM »
FWIW I removed the rear drive the first time I did it (and it didn't go as expected since the pinion pulled out of the pumpkin).

No big deal, but I think next time I'm going to go with pulling the left muffler and shock.

Oh, and I forget, I might have used crazy glue to hold the rubber drive cushions in place.
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Offline jackson

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #11 on: February 22, 2016, 09:52:07 AM »
FWIW; If you have a V7 with spoke wheels, the rear wheel doesn't want to come out like the models with cast wheels.  I've had both and had zero problem getting the rear wheel off just by dropping the left muffler, etc and pulling the wheel.  Not so with the spoke wheel and the factory recommended size tire.  The tire/wheel appeared to be much fatter and wouldn't let me lean the tire far enough to the left once I got the rear really high in the air so, I resorted to the "remove the rear drive method" (which I had previously done on the bike with cast wheels to lube the splines). 
I used a little RTV silicone on each cush rubber while I had the wheel off and let it dry overnight; it eliminated the problem of the cush rubbers falling out when re-installing.
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Offline jas67

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Re: V7 Classic Rear Wheel Removal
« Reply #12 on: February 22, 2016, 10:35:54 AM »
I changed rear tires on both my 2009 V7C and 2013 V7R w/o removing the rear drive.
I simply let most of the air out of the tires so the tire would compress easily to squeeze it by.

I honestly don't remember if I removed the left shock, but, I did remove the left muffler, at least on the V7C to get access to the large bolt that holds the disc brake arm in place.
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