Author Topic: 1999 V11 spoked front wheel can't get rotor Allen head bolts to budge (Read 6705 times)

DennisH · « **on:** February 29, 2016, 03:45:04 PM »

I stripped out a few in my attempt to remove those SOFT Allen head bolts on both front rotors. I soaked them in WD40, then later used PB Blaster, then Heated the bolt heads with a propane torch and let them cool, tried impact air wrench, also lots of whacks with a punch placed inside the Allen hole. Thinking maybe using the bolt extractor which I do not have. I cringe at the thought of grinding the heads! Then I would still have to get the bolts out of the hub!

Some one has the secret code - please tell me!

jlburgess · « **Reply #1 on:** February 29, 2016, 03:53:24 PM »

Been there, stripped that. I think they are made out of chocolate and then smothered in blue loctite.

Button head right? You probably have to drill the heads out now.

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #2 on:** February 29, 2016, 03:54:16 PM »

if you can lay them on a hot plate and heat the button heads for a longer period than you had the propane torch on them you may be able to melt the lock tight, saw it done once that way.
the stripped one might budge if you can get a vice grips to the edge.

you can get deeper socket heads to replace them with..

normzone · « **Reply #3 on:** February 29, 2016, 04:27:00 PM »

As with all threads regarding '99 V11s, I would like to know the end of the story if I may please.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #4 on:** February 29, 2016, 04:41:46 PM »

Quote from: jlburgess on February 29, 2016, 03:53:24 PM

Been there, stripped that. I think they are made out of chocolate and then smothered in blue loctite.
Button head right? You probably have to drill the heads out now.

It wouldn't be so bad if it was (removable) blue loctite, but they use that red stuff. You have to have over 400 degrees F to get it to melt. I use an ox acetylene torch.

When you see the smoke coming off the fastener, it's ready to come out. Yes, you can burn off paint if you're not *really* careful. Maybe Brad's hot plate idea would be better?

CalVin2007 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 29, 2016, 05:37:29 PM »

Quote from: Chuck in Indiana on February 29, 2016, 04:41:46 PM

It wouldn't be so bad if it was (removable) blue loctite, but they use that red stuff. You have to have over 400 degrees F to get it to melt. I use an ox acetylene torch. When you see the smoke coming off the fastener, it's ready to come out. Yes, you can burn off paint if you're not *really* careful. Maybe Brad's hot plate idea would be better?

Chuck's right. Been there done that...get 'em smokin' HOT!

Terry

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #6 on:** February 29, 2016, 05:42:11 PM »

And do not allow them to cool before wrenching them out!! The Loctite they use is only plastic when hot, reverts right back to locking mode when cooled.

Brian

Huzo · « **Reply #7 on:** February 29, 2016, 06:14:22 PM »

Only a guess but would you be better to warm the hub rather than the bolt/s. Given that aluminium has a greater co efficient of expansion, I'm wondering wouldn't that mean that you have some chance of the hub expanding away from the threads. I think it's likely that the dissimilar metals have been effected by electrolysis so expanding the aluminium hole might "crack" the bond ???? Good luck

guzziownr · « **Reply #8 on:** February 29, 2016, 06:16:41 PM »

Yep, I stripped one and then got serious. Heat gun on the aluminum hub, propane torch on the buttonhead. Find your tightest allen head fit (NOT Craftsman) and lots of pressure straight down as you turn. Got the rest of them out undamaged.

Huzo · « **Reply #9 on:** February 29, 2016, 06:24:40 PM »

Good for you !

John A · « **Reply #10 on:** February 29, 2016, 07:40:32 PM »

Heat and a hand impact works well

Cal3Me · « **Reply #11 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:11:52 AM »

After I stripped a few button heads I slotted them with a dremel then used a hand impact tool & BFH. That red stuff they use is tough

No heat was used .......

Rich A · « **Reply #12 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:19:57 AM »

I ended up tack welding scrap bolts to the allens. That not only heats them but also gives you good purchase.

Rich A

BigDave in PA · « **Reply #13 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:36:26 AM »

I drilled the center a little deeper and extracted them with one of what's in the pic below. They came right out. I replaced them with stainless allen bolts.

John Ulrich · « **Reply #14 on:** March 01, 2016, 12:59:35 AM »

I knocked mine loose by hitting them counterclockwise with the chisel.

FYI. Not all hex wrenches are the same size. I use a Snap-On hex that is tighten then my looser (smaller) Craftsman hex.

tris · « **Reply #15 on:** March 01, 2016, 01:19:21 AM »

Quote from: BigDave in PA on March 01, 2016, 12:36:26 AM

I drilled the center a little deeper and extracted them with one of what's in the pic below. They came right out. I replaced them with stainless allen bolts.

They're neat - not seen them before

Heat (and a lot of it) is usually your friend in these matters - but its a bit of a bugger if something you want to keep painted is nearby

The other possibility is to warm the hub and then hit the bolt with a shot of "Shock-Unlock" http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/rust-removal-treatment/halfords-shock-unlock-spray-400ml

You might get lucky

pauldaytona · « **Reply #16 on:** March 01, 2016, 02:04:12 AM »

I used an ox acetylene torch, aluminium plate with hole over the disk to keep the paint on. And if the hole is round instead of square, just a few hammers on top will get it tighter. And/or jam a torx bit in.

Zoom Zoom · « **Reply #17 on:** March 01, 2016, 03:34:55 AM »

Of course once the head is botched up there is no going back. Anyway, good suggestions. Another thing to consider is you mention you heated the area and let it cool off. NO, don't let cool back off. You need to heat the area and attempt to get the bolts out while hot. If it cools back down, you have defeated the purpose. Nest is the use of an impact driver. Usually 3/8" drive, you would use an Allen socket on the end.

Here is an example of what I'm referring to:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG

This is a tool you don't need very often, but it does great things!

John Henry

tris · « **Reply #18 on:** March 01, 2016, 04:23:02 AM »

If you use an impact drive make sure is supported properly from behind - guess who found out the hard way trying to get a trim screw out of his alloy rear peg hanger

Zoom Zoom · « **Reply #19 on:** March 01, 2016, 05:08:14 AM »

Quote from: tris on March 01, 2016, 04:23:02 AM

If you use an impact drive make sure is supported properly from behind - guess who found out the hard way trying to get a trim screw out of his alloy rear peg hanger

Oh Yeah! Glad you mentioned that. Important indeed. Something I personally take for granted. Sorry I forgot to mention it.

John Henry

tris · « **Reply #20 on:** March 01, 2016, 06:07:30 AM »

Durafix is your friend if busted off bit is non critical though http://durafix.com/index.html

Stuck it back on and it hasn't moved since

twhitaker · « **Reply #21 on:** March 02, 2016, 03:52:02 PM »

Quote from: tris on March 01, 2016, 04:23:02 AM

If you use an impact drive make sure is supported properly from behind - guess who found out the hard way trying to get a trim screw out of his alloy rear peg hanger

Right side?

tris · « **Reply #22 on:** March 03, 2016, 06:03:07 AM »

I suspect it might have been - but it was a year or 2 back now

twhitaker · « **Reply #23 on:** March 03, 2016, 06:05:18 AM »

I found out the hard way, too.

Pancake · « **Reply #24 on:** March 04, 2016, 04:18:51 PM »

Quote from: Rich A on March 01, 2016, 12:19:57 AM

I ended up tack welding scrap bolts to the allens. That not only heats them but also gives you good purchase.

This is what I did as well, worked a treat on the (by then knackered) allen bolts.

News:

Author Topic: 1999 V11 spoked front wheel can't get rotor Allen head bolts to budge (Read 6705 times)

DennisH

jlburgess

BigDave in PA