Griso trip reset button

[Trogladyte]

It does other stuff too,like scrolling through menus. I don't know what to call it. You know the thing.

Mine is suddenly temperamental. A couple of days ago I got no response at all when I tried to reset the trip. After turning off and on a couple of times, the dash suddenly scrolled through half a dozen functions after I'd hit the button several times without  response. Since then it has worked intermittently, but with a lag.

The fact that it suddenly scrolled through a few things leads me to suspect that it's not a switch problem. It's worrying me.

Thoughts?

[Darren Williams]

If mine was doing that, I would suspect the computer.  First thing I would do is disconnect the battery over night in the theory that it might help to reset it (kind of like rebooting a PC).

[Trogladyte]

If mine was doing that, I would suspect the computer.  First thing I would do is disconnect the battery over night in the theory that it might help to reset it (kind of like rebooting a PC).

Yeah. That's what I was thinking - feels like a processing lag more than a physical switch issue. But where is that processing? Is it dash or ECU? 

[guzzisteve]

The dash is in it's self is a computer. Also unplug dash. It may help

[pete roper]

Unplugging the dash may not fix the problem on its own. The dash has capacitors in it that hold a charge to retain certain memory functions. If you want to try the re-boot the dash trick either disconnect the battery or pull the main 30A fuse and then turn on the ignition and leave it overnight. This allows the capacitors to discharge and may cure the problem when the battery is reconnected or the fuse is replaced.

Pete

[Trogladyte]

Unplugging the dash may not fix the problem on its own. The dash has capacitors in it that hold a charge to retain certain memory functions. If you want to try the re-boot the dash trick either disconnect the battery or pull the main 30A fuse and then turn on the ignition and leave it overnight. This allows the capacitors to discharge and may cure the problem when the battery is reconnected or the fuse is replaced.

Pete

Thanks. Might have to try that.

What is lost, that the dash wants to preserve with its capacitors? Will the odo be reset? (Seems unlikely, as that would be just to easy for fraud). Mind you, it is Italian.(Bad Trog. I will wash my mind out with carbolic politically correct mind sanitiser).

[Zoom Zoom]

Based on the description, and equating it to my daily work, I would be more inclined to suspect the switch personally. Not registering, then scrolling through functions makes me think contacts are going bad. But, I could be way wrong.

John Henry

[Trogladyte]

Based on the description, and equating it to my daily work, I would be more inclined to suspect the switch personally. Not registering, then scrolling through functions makes me think contacts are going bad. But, I could be way wrong.

John Henry

I wonder. I kind of hope you're right.

[Zoom Zoom]

Thanks. Might have to try that.

What is lost, that the dash wants to preserve with its capacitors? Will the odo be reset? (Seems unlikely, as that would be just to easy for fraud). Mind you, it is Italian.(Bad Trog. I will wash my mind out with carbolic politically correct mind sanitiser).

The only thing you will have to reset should be the clock. Whatever mileage is on the bike, (dash), is retained in non volatile memory. I pull the fuses for the winter on both my Stelvio and new Eldo, and that is the only thing I need to reset.

John Henry

[Moto]

That button is wired directly to the dashboard computer, and that's where I too think your problem is.

I did the magical-seeming reset procedure that Pete described: disconnect the battery, turn on the ignition switch, and wait overnight. The next day the display problem I had experienced on my dash went away, so far for good. (This was at least two years ago.)

However, I have my doubts about whether the procedure is really effective. It could be coincidence. It would be very helpful if you would report that you've tried it, describing exactly what you did, and then also whether it seemed to work. Reports of failures are as valuable as reports of success -- maybe more valuable in this case.

Good luck!

Moto

[Trogladyte]

That button is wired directly to the dashboard computer, and that's where I too think your problem is.

I did the magical-seeming reset procedure that Pete described: disconnect the battery, turn on the ignition switch, and wait overnight. The next day the display problem I had experienced on my dash went away, so far for good. (This was at least two years ago.)

However, I have my doubts about whether the procedure is really effective. It could be coincidence. It would be very helpful if you would report that you've tried it, describing exactly what you did, and then also whether it seemed to work. Reports of failures are as valuable as reports of success -- maybe more valuable in this case.

Good luck!

Moto

OK.Assuming the problem persists tomorrow, I'll try the reboot tomorrow night.

[Trogladyte]

Well I pulled the main fuse and  left it on overnight. In the morning i replaced the fuse and everything came on OK. I needed to reset the time. But the problem is unchanged.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I suspect the button is not closing, either that or it has water inside leading the computer to think the button is already closed.
It could also be water in one the multi pin connector for the light switch, it takes very little leakage for the computer input to turn On, WD40 might help.

[rboe]

If the computer acts upon previous actuations of the switch (by hitting all the menu's ) then the computer saw the switch, put its' actions in a buffer and for some reason sat on it, then suddenly dumping the buffer and acting on all the switch actions.

That tells me it could be something else.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I doubt the switch has a buffer, more likely a partial contact sending a series of pulses.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2006_Griso_1100.gif
The red wire on terminal 18 of the dash is the common the wire on terminal 8 is the scroll
It looks as though you could unplug the connector (1) of item (9) and jumper out each of the functions one by one.

My moneys on moisture or corrosion in the connector.
Ohm out the scroll switch (pin 1 to pin 3) to make sure it reads infinity until pressed then it should read zero Ohms.

Swap the meter leads around, a different Ohm reading indicates electrolysis taking place.

Have you been riding in the rain?

[Wayne Orwig]

Water in the switch (or wiring harness).
I would clean the switch first.

The water can conduct and look like a noisy switch closing.

[rboe]

No buffer in the switch, but in the ECU.

[Moto]

First, thanks for reporting the failure of the magic overnight fix method.

I suppose it wouldn't hurt to clean the handlebar switch or the contacts in the connector to the dash. The latter is a 40-pin connector (really, two 20-pins joined together; the circuit diagram shows them as separate). My impression though is that it is pretty well isolated from water (having just disconnected one). It sits in an inverted, 0.7-inch deep well on the bottom of the dash:



It doesn't seem feasible to disassemble the dash beyond taking off the clear plastic face, and there is little point in that. There are three screws just under the edge of the speedometer face, but removing them did not make it possible, or at least easy, to go any further. I think some components might be glued to the case, maybe the 40-pin receiver for the connectors.

I fear your problem could have been caused by condensation inside the dashboard; the interior is open to the air. You might try drying it out by introducing dry air through one of the two small vents on the bottom; these look at first like they are solid plastic, but really they are baffled vents. You can tell they are vents by blowing through one and feeling the air come out the other. (Obviously, you shouldn't blow moist air from your mouth through the vent to try to dry out the dash! You'll need another source.)

Condensation can cause either temporary or permanent problems in electronics. By permanent, I mean problems that persist after the moisture goes away.

Good luck, and keep reporting what you find.

Moto

[pete roper]

Sorry? "thank you for reporting?....."

Look, it was suggested that sometimes dashes can have a brain fart and that solution cures it. My suggestion was never that it was a cure. I just threw it out there as a possibility and one that is easy and cheap, (Suspender twang!) to try.

To me it sounds more likely to be a switch problem but for f***'s sakes is it not possible to suggest an easy, free fix without being sneered at?

[Moto]

Sorry? "thank you for reporting?....."

... for f$!k's sakes is it not possible to suggest an easy, free fix without being sneered at?

Oh good grief.

It's not about you!

Your suggestion to try the possible fix was valuable. I would have suggested it too if you hadn't beat me to it.

I have both tried the fix in the past, with seeming success, and reported on it.

In an earlier post I encouraged the original poster to report back on what happened when he tried the fix. I specifically asked him to report a negative result if that occurred. He gave a very clear report, saying (as I read it) that he did the full routine, and that it didn't work. I valued this report, so I thanked him.

I still think the fix may work some of the time. But the questions are when does it work, and what is the rate of success. I want that data.

Some people are probably reluctant to report a lack of success when a cure is suggested, for fear they will offend the person who suggested it.

You should not be offended by my thanking Trogladyte for his report. It's in the spirit of scientific inquiry, which is something I know you value.  I want people always to report back.

Many areas of soft science -- and some areas of hard science -- are particularly plagued by the tendency to only publish successful outcomes ("significant" results). This allows completely bogus theories to persist until people tire of them and then move on to the next novel idea. We -- you, I, everybody -- should fight that by publishing (posting) the failures too. (I make my living teaching statistics to sociologists.)

I would still recommend that people try the fix. It may work. Whatever happens when they try it, they should REPORT BACK. We should thank them.

My comments were not aimed at you, Pete. I've never sneered at you in my more than a decade here, and never would. You're valued by me and everyone else.

Please take this as it's meant, a heartfelt assurance to you.

Moto
(John L., Madison)

[pete roper]

Nothing is, or has ever been about *Me*. I am though under the pump at the moment at work and in constant pain. Couple that with the endless trolling and yes, I tend to have a fairly short temper. It's probably only going to get worse. I'll try to be nice though.

[Zoom Zoom]

Another thing I might add regarding the switch I mentioned earlier in this thread. Early in the life of my Stelvio, I let the smoke out of said switch. (Started the bike one day and smoke literally rolled out of that switch.) Of course I shut the bike off, and luckily had time, and disassembled it. Lots if small contacts in there and more wires than I would have expected. In my case, it was the high/low beam switch, which I removed the internal portion of. Covered the hole with black tape. Oddly enough, the low beams functioned perfectly without those contacts. I cleared the ends of the wires and used it like that until the warranty replacement switch got installed.

Point being, there are a number of small contacts in there. I am not saying the switch is the source of your trouble, but having seen the inside of one, it's possible.

If bleeding off any stored electricity does not solve it, than I would look toward that switch next. Bear in mind, once you start to take apart the inside of it, there may be no going back. I don't mean taking it off the bars, I mean trying to disassemble it beyond that.

If you conclude the dash itself is the culprit, I would recommend Carmo Electronics in the Netherlands. I had some weird stuff going on a couple years ago and sent the Stelvio dash off to them for testing and repair of necessary. It came back no trouble found (NTF), but even if it had needed repair, it would have been a fraction of the cost of a new replacement. Turn around was about a month. In my case, I sent it in off season riding wise, so it worked out well.

John Henry

[Moto]

Nothing is, or has ever been about *Me*. I am though under the pump at the moment at work and in constant pain. Couple that with the endless trolling and yes, I tend to have a fairly short temper. It's probably only going to get worse. I'll try to be nice though.

Pete, No problem.

I just flew to Hong Kong after posting (and boy are my arms tired). I'll look at thr thread after getting to the hotel. 28 hours since leaving home so far.

Moto