Advice needed - rubber manifolds on V7C wont go on.

[malik]

Reassembling the bike. Frame positioned over the engine, a couple of bolts in joining the frame to the gearbox, sump on lift. With the throttle body assembly lying on the block, we put the small rubbers on the inlet manifolds, placed the control rod under the airbox lip then brought the assembly upwards to mate the inlet side of the throttle bodies to the rubbers. Success there. But with the big rubbers pushed into the airbox to make enough room for the throttle bodies to go onto the inlets, we now can't deform the big rubbers enough to get them to pop out onto the throttle bodies & into their grooves in the airbox.

Pete (Roper) advised heating all the rubbers in hot water to make them pliable, but as we'd already gone so far, and thought that by the time WE had got them in a position to be put on, they'd be stone cold again, we are looking for an alternative.

Any suggestions?

Please.

[oldbike54]

 Try using a blowdryer on low heat . I have never ever had these intake tubes go on W/O a struggle except on airhead beemers .

 Dusty

[bmc5733946]

I had 2 Breva 750s apart last year, first one I took the rubbers off the manifolds.  On the second one I left the injectors on and took the airbox connections off, difficult either way but easier the second way.  Under no circumstance should one loosen the manifold from the head, broke the gasket, cost me 3 days for shipping and a day to install, it is a really tight spot!

Brian

[sign216]

It's an incredible pain, yes.  I got mine on just by horribly abusing them; leveraging them with screwdrivers and various pry tools.  It was awful.
Amazingly, they withstood the treatment with no problem.

My advice is to be rough and fierce.  Pretend it's your ex-wife.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

A light application of silicone grease so they slide and heat with a hair dryer or electric heat gun.

[sign216]

A light application of silicone grease so they slide and heat with a hair dryer or electric heat gun.

Charlie,

I tried lube and heat, and it was like making peace in the middle east:  not going to happen.

Joe

[Muzz]

Makes me pleased that I was able to undo the Screw of Doom without disturbing the manifolds! I of course did not take the donk out completely, just left it in the frame along with one side rail and removed the gearbox off the back.

[canuguzzi]

Pot of boiling water. Throw them in. Works for old Triumph manifolds.

What as from blow dryers or heat guns can easily damage them.

Let them sit in the boiling water for a while, testing periodically. Saves effort and frustration.

[oldbike54]

Pot of boiling water. Throw them in. Works for old Triumph manifolds.

What as from blow dryers or heat guns can easily damage them.

Let them sit in the boiling water for a while, testing periodically. Saves effort and frustration.

 How long do those old cast mazak manifolds need to soak in boiling water before they soften up A blow dryer on low won't harm the V7's pieces .

  Dusty

[canuguzzi]

The problem with blow dryer use is that unless you are patient, getting an even heating is a chore. It isn't that the blow dryer won't work but if the entire manifold isn't pliable you can tear them as the portion not heated won't bend and...

You can get them soft in boiling water, then move the whole lot right next to where you need the manifolds. They stay pliable while you work on them one at a time.

The old ones from the Trophy took maybe 5 minutes but it is easy enough to test them.

Don't forget the tongs and gloves, they will be good and hot coming out. They remain pliable even as they cool.

[cwiseman]

On a old bike I worked on once I used a ratchet strap to pull the carb assembly onto the manifold.
Reverse engineer what you've done, put something in the manifold outlets to stretch them ever so lightly back open and let them sit that way over night.

[Penderic]

Never give up! 

Use a bigger lever?

[malik]

Problem solved! Spent two days struggling with those buggers unsuccessfully. Gave up & went for a ride. Well, 8 days away, 4 days travelling 2 & 1/2 thousand km & 4 days hanging out with classic bike nuts, mostly guzzisti (at the Broadford Bike Bonanza) and lots of thinking inside the helmet did the trick. An hour after we started back at it on Wednesday, the throttle bodies were on.

The trick was to lay the throttle bodies back down in the well with the small rubbers off. Pull the large rubbers out of the airbox till they lodged & spun in their grooves.  Put the small rubbers back on the throttle bodies & then manoeuvre them out & up till they more or less align with the manifolds. Push them onto the big rubbers from the airbox, & then pull, push. lever the rubber till it slips over the throttle body inlet. Not a great deal of force used, but the angle of attack is important.

Just got everything buttoned up this evening. Took the bike out for a short ride around the block, enough to establish that there may be a problem with the gear change. Put that problem aside till tomorrow.

[grinmaul]

Good job, some times sleeping on it, or an 8 day ride is just what a problem needs.

More then once i have bolted upright in the middle of the night with a solution to an electrical or some other problem on a car at the shop, get to work the next day and more often then not it works.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Good job, some times sleeping on it, or an 8 day ride is just what a problem needs.

More then once i have bolted upright in the middle of the night with a solution to an electrical or some other problem on a car at the shop, get to work the next day and more often then not it works.

I've always said I do my best work in bed, too.