Ambassador Resto

[luthier]

Last year I bought an old Ambo [June 1970 from the headstock.] from the States for resto.
It took a long time to get here[NSW Oz] but now I've started to dismantle her.
I have the engine out of the frame  and the gearbox separated.
So I'm ready to take off the forks.
Seems this is a hard job. I have the civilian single speedo type with the big alloy speedo holder.
I removed the top and then the two big plugs on top of the fork tubes as well as the central nut on the top of the headstock. But the alloy base of the instrument cluster doesn't want to come off.
Any clues most welcome. It seems tight enough that I might break it in it's removal.




Seems to have steel inserts in the barrels so at least I'm spared having to go Gillardoni.



I'm gradually getting the shopping list together for what is no good. When I'm ready a job by Mister Roper will be required on the gearbox as the output shaft is twisted so the box needs to be split.

Currently we are on dialup internet so I haven't done a great deal on anything till the new satellite and some cash injection.
I just want to get it down to small parts to start with so the next stages of painting and chroming can start when I'm ready.
I've read Guzziology and my manual but without special tool number wotever, or without Dave Richardson here to curse these forks I'm wanting a bit of advice/encouragement about getting these forks off please.

[JoeW]

The fork tubes are a tapered fit into the upper plate. It's steel not alloy. With both upper tube nuts off and the smaller center nut removed, tap upwards on the plate with a plastic dead blow hammer or use a wood block as a drift. They can be stubborn.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_fork_rebuilding.html

[luthier]

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_fork_rebuilding.html

Thankyou Charlie.

 I knew there had to be a better way.

[luthier]

Well today there was a spell of rain so I had to stop building the house for a few hours.
This gave me enough time to get some work done on the Ambo.

Using the Greg Bender method with the front wheel off I soon loosened one of the tapered top yokes but the other one required a lot more effort and patience. I was aware that the threads in the two big nuts are very fine so I wasn't ready to really smash them. Instead I used a block of hardwood from underneath with a fair sized ballpeen hammer and finally it let go.
I then removed the entire wiring loom complete with headlight and speedo and regulator.
I want to fit all new stuff there but it's always helpful to be able to refer to original wiring.

Then it was time to drive the tubes through the lower yoke but I couldn't make them go while still on the frame.
So I removed the whole set and placed the lower yoke on the corner of my metal bench so as to get really good resistance when I thumped from the top. I placed the top nuts on fully housed so as not to stress the threads and gave them a beating.
Once the nuts were down to the tops of the fork covers they had to be removed so I placed the axle in  place and thumped that from below hoping I didn't damage anything. I could see good movement with every tap and finally after I found a shallow tapered screwdriver which went into the pinchbolt slots, the slightly rusty tubes released from the lower yoke. Hoping it won't be so hard to refit once all is nice and clean.
I note that the top nuts already have a tapped hole on top so a long rod could be screwed in there to create the fitting tool that is shown both in the manual and by Greg Bender.

So now I'm looking for a good sized tube to make the special tool to unscrew the rest of it.
There's one of the mudguard mounts come loose from a lower fork leg so that will need a careful weld once it's all stripped down.

I'm thinking those lower fork legs look better in silver than black when I get to that stage.

That's it for today, thanks for the help.

[Tom H]

I note that the top nuts already have a tapped hole on top so a long rod could be screwed in there to create the fitting tool that is shown both in the manual and by Greg Bender.

So now I'm looking for a good sized tube to make the special tool to unscrew the rest of it.
There's one of the mudguard mounts come loose from a lower fork leg so that will need a careful weld once it's all stripped down.

To pull the tubes back up into the triple clamp you will need a threaded m6 rod and a "SPARE" top nut as you will NEED to GRIND OFF THE HEX AREA of the nut so that it will fit through the top triple clamp hole. Also carefully use a chisel or screwdriver in the pinch slot on the lower triple clamp to wedge it open slightly and the tube will slide right in.

If you want to remove the chrome cover on the lower for leg, try a strap wrench. I used one of the ones with the rubber strap.
If you try this, MAKE SURE that you wrap the strap where the chrome meets the painted leg, but only on the chrome part. Also before you try it, clean the chrome of all oil and crud, that will allow the strap to get some grip. Also clamp the leg in a vice at the axle bolt hole that will make it much easier to twist the chrome loose.

One more thing, the bushings may not be available so don't bugger them up. I think it was the lower bushing that was hard to get. MG Cycle had some, don't know if they still do.

Hope this helps,
Tom

[Chuck in Indiana]

Chaz.. I don't know if you have tried it, but a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is the berries for unsticking rusted together parts.

[luthier]

Thanks for the advice Tom. I'll see if some of that works for me.

Chuck, funny you should mention that magic mix. I made up a small jar of it a few weeks ago actually, having always meant to try it. I soaked a car boot lock that wouldn't turn with the key and next morning it worked perfectly.
Is it true that this was first mentioned by some Velocette nutcase?

Anyway it sounds like a good thing to pour into these fork legs before I try to loosen those chrome bits.
Cheers.

[TodkaVonic]

As someone who just finished a restoration myself, and as someone who has never really done anything like that before, let me say that you and the Ambo will be fine and that you'll have a ball completing this project.

If you haven't, join the yahoo loopframe Guzzi forum.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Loopframe_Guzzi/conversations/messages

There's loads of info there and the members are very helpful. And the recommendation to go to Greg Bender's site is spot-on. In addition to his blog, he will respond to questions within a day or two with great advice.

Sounds like you've gotten the fork dismantling situation under control. I look forward to updates!

Have fun Luthier