Tire Changing Advice Requested

[John A]

I don't have a tire machine but you do want to support the rim and not have the brake disc support any weight. For this I use a small barrel ( 20 or so gallon)with heater hose that is slit down its length on the edge that touches the rim. Holds the thing up in the air to lever the tire off. Some good advice on the preceding posts, not much I can add except to make sure the opposite edge of the tire that you are levering on is in the valley of the rim. Tires are generally mean dirty bastards but they are not real bright so just be smarter than the tire and you'll do fine.

[Chuck in Indiana]

My experience is they generally seat around 40-45. Not this

mean dirty bastards

 

I keep a can of either (starting gas aerosol) and if I get one that will not seat I just brake the bead and spray a bit in and light it with a bic. The seating pop is less noisy than the compressed air one.
Learned from my friend Cody who uses this method on tractor tires (and his pan head).

Works every time.

I've heard of that, but was afraid to try it.  It's filed away in my steel trap memory now, though. 

[John A]

You gotta use the real ether, starting fluid burns too slow. Acetylene and ox work well but I usually use more than is needed so it can be exciting

[Chuck in Indiana]

gulp..

[John A]

gulp..

Yep

[kirby1923]

You gotta use the real ether, starting fluid burns too slow. Acetylene and ox work well but I usually use more than is needed so it can be exciting

Start stuff works fine for me, has never failed but then I have only done it once. I have watched the guys down at the tire store near my shop and they use an air can and charge it up to 110 psi and release it all at once on pesky truck tires. Every body stands back. I showed them the start stuff and the owner thought that OSHA would not approve.
Anyway its a last choice but if all else fails it WILL work!

On another note, does anybody know the # for a bosch oil filter that fits a round fin?

:-)

[Wayne Orwig]

It took 100psi for my front to seat. I was watching the installer.

They likely didn't lube the tire enough.

[Tom]

Lighter fluid works.  Haven't used it on motorcycle tires.  Tractor tires in the field away from everyone and I wasn't the one taking the risk.

[bratman2]

I have a harbor freight tire changer. I use it as a work bench for tire changing. A pair of beautiful long handled spoons I have not touched in years.  I use a big "C" clamp to break bead, ratchet straps to compress tire. Once you pinch the two beads together with 8 ratchet straps the tire will come off easy by hand. You can use ty-straps also if you have them, I do! By far the easiest way and way safer for the rims as far as scratching or dinging them in my opinion.

[Chuck in Indiana]

To the OP. Had enough advice yet?  It's not simple *all* of the time in your home shop. I've done it for years and will continue to do it, but "occasionally" you will hardly make wages. 

[sib]

Progress report:

After reading all the valuable comments and advice here, I decided to take the wheels off myself and let a pro replace the tires.  The stories about seating the beads spooked me.

I decided that the easiest way to remove the rear wheel was to first remove both mufflers and the right shock absorber, and then remove the wheel along with the bevel box.

A local shop changed the tire and checked the balance in 10 minutes while I waited, and for a very reasonable price.

Putting things back together was only mildly challenging.  After several false starts, I had to resort to being clever.  The trick I used was to first lay the wheel down with the right side facing up, then put in the cush rubbers, and lay the bevel box over it.  After the wheel and bevel box were properly united, I inserted a dowel (mock axle) into the bevel box and wheel to keep things aligned, lifted the two while holding them together and rolled the wheel so that the bevel box studs went into the mating holes in the swing arm.  After a bit of jiggling, everything was seated and I threaded on the cap nuts lightly.  Then, I inserted the axle from the left, making sure it went through the brake caliper holder and the left spacer, then into the wheel and eventually pushing out the dowel.  Whew!  Actually, it was easier than it reads.

While the bevel box was out, I inspected it for oil leaks (negative) and also inspected the splines for rust (none), moisture (none), and grease (there was an adequate amount).

Now, on to the front wheel, which I hope and expect will be easier.

Thanks again for all the advice.  Sam