Author Topic: 1998 V11EV ECU (Read 20888 times)

Rainman · « **Reply #30 on:** May 30, 2016, 03:11:47 PM »

I have a Ducati 15M ECU I will sell for $50 dollars but it won't work for any Guzzi. When plugged in and connected to Guzzidiag there is no air pressure reading. Because Ducati Monster's have the air pressure sender in the in the air box. As I remember I had loaded a Guzzi map on it. But it was a couple of years ago.

pauldaytona · « **Reply #31 on:** May 31, 2016, 04:02:47 PM »

Your 15m, is that an 15m a8? I have a friend who has a monster900 ecu and he told me all worked.

rodekyll · « **Reply #32 on:** May 31, 2016, 05:25:04 PM »

I have personally seen no differences between a 15M for guzzi and for ducati except the mapping and labeling. In addition, I've done some looking, and I have not seen picture of a ducati ecu that did not have the round rubber cover in the casing that hides the sensor. The barometer is part of the 15M design. If they didn't have it it wouldn't be a 15M it would be something else. If there is an "A8" or other variant out there without a barometer I have not seen it All the labeled variants I have seen indicated rev levels and map type. That certainly doesn't mean it's NOT out there, just that nobody has produced one for me to look at. If someone could post pics of a 15M that does not have the barometer cover on the case it would help my education. :)

Rainman · « **Reply #33 on:** May 31, 2016, 10:06:16 PM »

Quote from: pauldaytona on May 31, 2016, 04:02:47 PM

Your 15m, is that an 15m a8? I have a friend who has a monster900 ecu and he told me all worked.

My Ducati ECU is a 15M A0 out of a Super Sport 750 circa 1998?

Quote from: rodekyll on May 31, 2016, 05:25:04 PM

...In addition, I've done some looking, and I have not seen picture of a ducati ecu that did not have the round rubber cover in the casing that hides the sensor...

At the time I looked and remember it as this Ducati having a air pressure sensor in the air box.
Maybe the barometer is disabled with software? It Would make some sense to put the air sensor in the air box to compensate for the pressure drop across the air filter as it changes when it gets plugged up with dust.
I'll test it again when I get into the Quota this weekend.
I seem to remember reading before Guzzidiag came along

that Guzzitech would no longer flash Ducati ECU's for use in Guzzi's because of problems.
It seems to me that Guzzidiag only has access to part of the ECU's memory or there are variations to different sub models.
When the '12 Stelvio was under warranty I found a '12 Norge dual O2 enabled ECU to use a so as not to tamper with the original one.
It worked ok when flashed with the Stelvio maps but the traction control didn't seem to work anymore with the Norge ECU.

pauldaytona · « **Reply #34 on:** June 01, 2016, 01:57:46 AM »

With Marelli, if the hardware ID is the same, the difference between the norge and stelvio could only be software. Since then there is added an eeprom reader writer, maybe the traction control saves there something that isn't in the norge eeprom part? EEPROM memory is used to save things that change like learned lambda compensation, errors and more.

rodekyll · « **Reply #35 on:** June 01, 2016, 03:40:20 AM »

These 15M's don't speak lambda or traction control. Very basic -- almost crude. That's why I prefer them for my projects.

OldBMWMaster · « **Reply #36 on:** June 01, 2016, 05:09:31 AM »

@ Rainman; I sent you a message. Perhaps someone here can answer. My Guzzi is a 1998 California 1100. Will Rainman's ECU work with my bike?

rodekyll · « **Reply #37 on:** June 01, 2016, 09:24:42 AM »

We've got some differing opinions of that. See if he'll send it to someone with the guzzi reflash stuff and have it mapped for your bike. then try it. It would help everyone involved with the topic to have a definitive answer, and the guy mapping it is the one who can tell us if it worked or not.

twhitaker · « **Reply #38 on:** June 15, 2016, 09:15:59 AM »

Quote from: twhitaker on May 30, 2016, 10:51:22 AM

The issue I am having with my '96 Cali is that, for seemingly no reason whatsoever, one cylinder would quit working. After a few seconds to minutes it would kick back in, without a bang. Which leads me to believe I have an intermittent connection in the injection harness. I can usually get it to kick back in by pulling the clutch in and let the bike idle for a bit.

I figured a harness with the big ass connector would be expensive or not available. Changing over to the 15M harness might be less expensive AND better.

A fellow at the New Cumberland rally suggested Seafoam which I'm going to try first.

Until I get this reliability issue figured out that bike is going to be a garage queen.

I tried the Seafoam last week and the bike rode fine for 50 or so miles. I texted a friend that I had cured the problem. Must have jinxed the fix for it came back with a vengeance the next day. Last night I pulled the injector connectors. There was some corrosion so I cleaned them with Caig Deoxit and reassembled. Will ride it this afternoon and hope for the best.

pauldaytona · « **Reply #39 on:** June 15, 2016, 02:22:30 PM »

could also be sparks missing. You know two things are needed: fuel and sparks.

guzzisteve · « **Reply #40 on:** June 15, 2016, 02:51:44 PM »

I've had to clean off the pins on the 2 connectors going in & out of the spark control units.
Black carbon stuff on them. Worth a look.

twhitaker · « **Reply #41 on:** June 15, 2016, 03:19:36 PM »

I've had it falter ignitionwise before and the ignition would usually come on with a BANG. Presently, this bike would run on one cylinder for up to 5 minutes and then come back like nothing happened. I certainly HOPE I've found this annoying culprit.

LowRyter · « **Reply #42 on:** June 15, 2016, 06:16:17 PM »

Quote from: twhitaker on May 30, 2016, 10:51:22 AM

The issue I am having with my '96 Cali is that, for seemingly no reason whatsoever, one cylinder would quit working. After a few seconds to minutes it would kick back in, without a bang. Which leads me to believe I have an intermittent connection in the injection harness. I can usually get it to kick back in by pulling the clutch in and let the bike idle for a bit.

I figured a harness with the big ass connector would be expensive or not available. Changing over to the 15M harness might be less expensive AND better.

A fellow at the New Cumberland rally suggested Seafoam which I'm going to try first.

Until I get this reliability issue figured out that bike is going to be a garage queen.

check the ignitor box connectors under the left side cover.

twhitaker · « **Reply #43 on:** June 27, 2016, 01:31:32 PM »

It would seem my hopes were dashed last weekend. The injection faltering has come back. I either did not do a good enough job with the Deoxit or I've been pursuing the wrong wild goose.

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #44 on:** June 27, 2016, 01:48:32 PM »

My 98 EV had the crappy carbon core HT leads, one of those lost contact at the coil end and it started missing on one cylinder because it had to jump the gap inside core
An easy test is take your multimeter and check the resistance from the plug cap to chassis from memory about 8,000 Ohms on both sides, if one side is open check the leads.
Make sure the leads are not in touch with anything metallic, it could also be arcing to chassis.

The bike should not have carbon core leads AND resistor caps

twhitaker · « **Reply #45 on:** June 27, 2016, 02:05:36 PM »

Again, there is no BANG when the cylinder comes back on line which leads me to believe it is a FUEL situation.

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #46 on:** June 27, 2016, 03:15:38 PM »

Check the leads just to humour me!

The injectors are fed from the ECU relay terminal 87 and wire to terminals 33 & 35 of the ECU you can remove the shell off the ECU connector to probe it.

From the ECU relay to 33 and 35 should be exactly the same on both sides 19 Ohms I think
Inspect the connector pins, it only takes a small resistance to mess that up.
It could be a fault inside the ECU like a cracked circuit board, nothing that can't be rectified.

This document is worth it's weight in Gold for the P8 ECU and mostly applies to the 15M as well
http://www.guzziclub.fi/images/pdf/tekniikkapalsta/efiman.pdf

antmanbee · « **Reply #47 on:** January 30, 2019, 06:31:31 AM »

Quote from: twhitaker on May 30, 2016, 10:51:22 AM

The issue I am having with my '96 Cali is that, for seemingly no reason whatsoever, one cylinder would quit working. After a few seconds to minutes it would kick back in, without a bang. Which leads me to believe I have an intermittent connection in the injection harness. I can usually get it to kick back in by pulling the clutch in and let the bike idle for a bit.

This sounds like the problem I have been having with my 98EV with the P8 ECU system.
So I have a couple of questions.

Was this problem ever resolved for twhitaker?

I like the bike, just not the P8 ECU system.
Like rodekyll stated earlier, I like the 15M ECU systems the best. Still simple, reliable and easy to use and well supported with Guzzidiag. So I was also contemplating switching out the P8 for the 15M.
I would like to switch out the ECU and ignition system including coils and possibly other components. I have access to a whole complete wire harness and all the attached components so I would
rather do a more complete swap than just cut the P8 ecu connector off and splice in a 15M ecu connector.
Has anybody done this? If so, what issues will I be dealing with?

guzzisteve · « **Reply #48 on:** January 30, 2019, 08:08:25 AM »

You can swap them out w/wiring harness. The P8 uses the oil temp on valve cover, the 15M uses cyl head temp w/temp sensor on inside of head. Other sensors are bout the same. The looms are different, swap the whole loom is easiest.

yogidozer · « **Reply #49 on:** January 30, 2019, 08:36:27 AM »

I know there are a lot of smart people here, I would think someone could come up with a connector type thingy that would make it a plug and play.
Wouldn't that be possible?

guzzisteve · « **Reply #50 on:** January 30, 2019, 08:42:56 AM »

The 15M also uses different timing. Only uses 1 pick-up for cam sensor. P8 uses 2 of them, 1 on cam & 1 on crank(knobs on flywheel. I would see if it's same tone wheel and sensor. P8 plug has over 30pins, 15M has many less..

Rich A · « **Reply #51 on:** January 30, 2019, 09:00:03 AM »

Quote from: rodekyll on May 28, 2016, 07:48:53 PM

Golly -- I checked, and you're right. An ECU is NOT a wiring harness. How did that slip by me, and what's your point?

I have an ECU that I'll sell you for $100.

Rich A

guzzisteve · « **Reply #52 on:** January 30, 2019, 11:22:12 AM »

A P8 or 15M?

flower_king001 · « **Reply #53 on:** January 30, 2019, 12:47:18 PM »

Perhaps?

http://www.myecu.biz/MyECU/index.htm

Rich A · « **Reply #54 on:** January 30, 2019, 01:57:41 PM »

Quote from: guzzisteve on January 30, 2019, 11:22:12 AM

A P8 or 15M?

15M

Rich

guzzisteve · « **Reply #55 on:** January 30, 2019, 05:04:56 PM »

Which model it come from? I won't be looking for a bit. I have a stock P8 & a MyECU for my 98.

antmanbee · « **Reply #56 on:** January 30, 2019, 05:47:17 PM »

On a P8 ecu 22 of 35 total pins are used. 2 pins go to the air pressure sensor which is on board on the 15M and 2 pins go to the crank phase sensor which is also not used on a 15M.
On a 15M ecu 20 of 26 total pins are used.

Diagrams,
http://dpguzzi.com/cal1100i.pdf

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2000_Bassa.gif

flower_king001 · « **Reply #57 on:** January 31, 2019, 09:36:45 AM »

Quote from: guzzisteve on January 30, 2019, 05:04:56 PM

Which model it come from? I won't be looking for a bit. I have a stock P8 & a MyECU for my 98.

MYECU easy to install? Happy with the overall results?

pauldaytona · « **Reply #58 on:** February 01, 2019, 03:10:39 AM »

Quote from: flower_king001 on January 31, 2019, 09:36:45 AM

MYECU easy to install? Happy with the overall results?

If you don't want to be involved it's not your cup of thee.

With the Standard Marelli ecu anyone can help.

guzzisteve · « **Reply #59 on:** February 01, 2019, 06:28:21 AM »

MyECU does make you involved w/it. Mine is set-up for plug & play. I can go back & forth w/o changing anything. That all changes w/you tune the bike, move the idle stop and you calibrate the TPS position. You just enter a set of numbers.
My issue is I started from scratch cause not too many folks have this on a California model. Cliff runs an O2 closed loop and mine is open loop and wide open intake & exhaust. I hate crunching numbers. I went back and converted stock maps to different software. Mine works very well, but it's sorted.
What I like is you can change it live while it's running. It's the Ultimate if you like this sort of thing.

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Author Topic: 1998 V11EV ECU (Read 20888 times)

OldBMWMaster