Bled clutch, now it stalls when put into gear - B1100

[LeakyLogic]

I bled the clutch with a hand pump vacuum bleeder and now the bike stalls when put into gear. It does not jump forward and more throttle does nothing. It worked before. I let the fluid in the master cylinder get too low and it sucked some air, but I bled the crap out of it and now I got no bubbles.

Is it possible air got into the switch at the bars and it's not fully engaging?

Do I have to bleed master cylinder and how do you do it?

[twhitaker]

One thing I tried on my LeMans that worked. I  bungied the clutch lever to the grip overnight and turned the bars in a manner that gave the bubble the straightest shot to the master cylinder. Tried it the next day and voila!

[Idontwantapickle]

You mentioned that the fluid got too low. Where did it go? If you have a leak then the leak might be working against you letting air in.
If not that then let it sit for a while (overnight is good) and try bleeding it at the master cylinder. Pull the lever in and loosen the banjo bolt holding the hose just enough to let the air out then snug it right back up. Repeat as needed.
Hope this helps!
Hunter

[guzzisteve]

Air bubble somewhere. It may need more than 1 fill to fix, better buy a qt.

[LeakyLogic]

Did I forget to mention the side stand was down. Problem solved.

I must be dehydrated.

Thanks for the responses guys.

[twhitaker]

DOH! Had the same problem once with the LeMans. The Cali is different. It won't even try to start unless the sidestand is up.

[Idontwantapickle]

I hate it when that happens! But them I'm glad it's fixed and I'm over it. 

[guzzisteve]

Ha Ha Ha Ha, that's some of the 1st crap I disconnect on my bikes. At least it was easy.

[lucky phil]

One thing I tried on my LeMans that worked. I  bungied the clutch lever to the grip overnight and turned the bars in a manner that gave the bubble the straightest shot to the master cylinder. Tried it the next day and voila!

Well I dont know how that worked because when you pull the clutch lever to the bars the first thing that happens in the first few mm of the levers travel is it closes off the port to the master cylinder reservoir.

Ciao 

[jacksonracingcomau]

Well I dont know how that worked because when you pull the clutch lever to the bars the first thing that happens in the first few mm of the levers travel is it closes off the port to the master cylinder reservoir.

Ciao

It worked cos when he released bungy all was lined up to let air back into m/cylinder (would've been hiding just under closed port)

[rodekyll]

I was skeptical until I remembered reading about it and tried it on a spongy line, except for the turning the handlebar part.  The next morning I removed the bungee and the brake felt great.  I've used the trick with good success since on front and rear brakes.  So far not on linked though.

[Wayne Orwig]

Well I dont know how that worked because when you pull the clutch lever to the bars the first thing that happens in the first few mm of the levers travel is it closes off the port to the master cylinder reservoir.

The theory I heard:
You pull the lever and keep it pulled. That makes the air bubbles very small. When the air bubbles are large, they can't move though the lines. When squeezed small, they are free to move. The tiny air bubbles now all float to the top, the master cylinder. The next day when you release the pressure, they pop out the bypass hole in the master cylinder. Air gone.

Don't know if that is it, but it sounds reasonable.

[rodekyll]

Makes sense.  I never thought about it too much -- it worked that's all that mattered to me. 

Another benefit of the technique is that the pressure overnight can reveal those pesky leaking banjo crush rings and flare fittings.  Often we get tiny leaks that let air in but don't show wet to the outside.  They're hard to find and impossible to get a good lever feel with.  The bungee trick can force a little dribble out a leak, making it easier to notice.  I clean and dry the joints, pressurize, wait overnight, and then touch each joint with a paper towel.  If it comes away damp (you can see the color change from the liquid) you've got your problem located.

And I once got one of those unrebuildable brembo m/c's to reveal its seal leak that way.  I repaired it with a rebuildable Nissin, a fine thread banjo bolt, and a trash bin.  Gxxr's are good for something. 

[toaster404]

Leakey, you are a moron.  Thank you.  I feel much better!!!!   

Seriously, if this clutch crap comes up, many of us have spent lots of time figuring out a bad kickstand switch is it.  On the hydraulics, my 1400 is the very best at trapping air in lines.  Rocking, rolling, banging with a piece of wood seems to helpe.