Durango to Rico Wee-Strom ride report, road conditions, etc

[lucydad]

All,

Ok, a bucket list item checked off:  to once again ride a motorcycle on my home roads of Southwest Colorado.  Last time was August, 1974.

Flew in Monday to ABQ, drove rental car up, stayed first night with friends, and did "maintenance" on my 95 year old mother.  She lives in assisted living, is nearly blind, but hangs in there.  By the way she used to ride our Honda MT 50s up at the Cascade Cabin.  Got some supplies bought, talked with staff, evaluated her safety, reviewed finances, and bought her ten pounds of Rocky Mountain chocolate.





Spent Tuesday night at Gable House B and B.  This old Durango mansion is east of downtown.  My brother was born here when it was the Protestant hospital, in 1950.  Mom remembers walking up 3 steep flights of stairs while pregnant.  All of our old Protestant doctors practiced here as the Catholic hospital had a strict policy.  Great breakfast, highly recommended, and fantastic history and building!  Will take family here in August, and return as needed.





Got up Wednesday morning, had amazing B and B breakfast.  Drove cage over to MountainADV location at Durango Airpark.  David, the owner had me set up on Suzuki V-Strom 650.  BMW 650 I was supposed to have had a front brake rotor problem.  Rider had abused brakes on some pass? 





This picture was a stop on the road past Dolores before Rico.  Colorado highway department, was, of course, chip sealing roads.  Waited about a half hour.  Manager put me to head of line and gave me a stern lecture on speed and safety with fresh tar and fresh mounds of gravel.  Oh boy.
The V-strom is top heavy, and was about an inch or more too tall for me.  So, it took all my skills on the bike when stopping and starting.  Clutch was fast and front brake grabby.  Glad to not dump it.  Pretty stressful, but I still was determined to make the ride and have fun.  Stopped in Dolores for coffee before heading to Rico.  Great weather, and it got pretty cool as I headed up altitude in to my home San Juans.





Ate nice burger at Enterprise Bar in Rico.


Walked Rico for a break.  Lots of snow on high peaks left.  Bumped into a bicycle rider.  He had flown into San Francisco, and ridden thru CA, northern AZ, eastern UT, and now CO.  Goal is to Denver, and across all USA on his German made bike.  We talked about Ortlieb bags.  Excellent english skills and I have high regard for his motivation and endurance.  He can be followed online...





David at MountainADV in Durango had me stop in Dolores on way down to call so he could meet me at shop.  Giant gas station in Dolores was mad house--parked bike carefully for call, and a lady in a brand new black Corvette backed up into a truck.  She got mad at me for being close, but I told her I had moved bike out of way, and she knew that.  Also saw a pretty Ferrari filling up--only gas station in area open with gas?  Insane, I should have parked elsewhere.  Filled Suzuki tank outside Durango, and rode back to ADV about 4 pm.  Was out for seven hours.  David at ADV cut $100 off rental cost due to not having BMW.  Gave me free t-shirt, and promised a discount and the BMW next time.  Sat on BMW and yes it was a lot better for a short guy like me.  ADV is highly recommended!!





Proceeded to drive cage to get some food, then up to our cabin at Cascade Creek.  Location is just inside San Juan County, north of Purgatory Ski area.  Did some cabin maintenance, and second evening mama bear and two yearling cubs were visiting.  Gave me a pucker as I had just come inside, and the cubs were very curious and active.  Can be quite dangerous!!  First time seeing black bears this close to cabin in decades. 





This is an evening view of cabin.  Built in 1948.  Dad bought it in 1967.  Amazing place.





Altitude is 9300 feet, same as Silverton, so I always take a couple days from sea level to let my body acclimate. Amazing weather.  Early arrival hummingbird pair were nesting so I put feeder out.  Too early for fly fishing in Cascade Creek due to melt off in progress.  Huge snow winter, slow and cool spring, and such make for very green and gradual summer.  Stars and planets astounding with high, dry and clear skies.  Mars was glowing!! 

Met one of my best friends in Silverton for lunch at Pickle Barrel.  Town was jumping with tourists. Would add a couple Silverton photos but can't figure out how to do it in "modify" mode.

Saturday I hiked up Cascade Canyon about four miles to the Engineer Creek crossing.  Above that are the famous Cascade falls.  The hike is fairly strenuous for a 62 year old, but my body did fine.  All the poodle walks, bicycle rides, and strength training pay dividends.  Got up to nearly 11,000 feet?  Did not bring enough drinking water, so I did not make it the full distance to major falls.  No drinking stream water due to giardia.
Here is a view from the Cascade trail of the peaks to the east:





Drove down to Needles store for water, and to communicate on cell phone.  Saw this guy high centered with his Toyota FJ.  Offered help but he said he had truck on way.  Asked what happened:  "uh was watching fractal patterns on a tree".  Sheesh, stay focused people.  Lots of hikers and bikers and such in mountains, many have low common sense.





Spent four nights at cabin.  Will return at least twice more this summer.  Drove down to Durango Sunday afternoon:  very hot and dry.  Monsoons should kick in soon.  Drove to ABQ Monday, and flew home. 

Next trip in late July/August I plan on the BMW rental for at least two days, maybe three.  Chip sealing should be done.  Want to ride entire loop Durango-Silverton-Ouray-Telluride-Rico-Dolores-Manco-Durango.  I note the upright V-strom geometry agreed with my body. 

Grateful for the week, it was a blast and I had fun with friends, had some adventures, and got mom taken care of, for now.

[rocker59]

Hey LD,

Question for you:  Why don't you fly into Durango?

When out there in 2013 for the WG Western Adventure, I had Red fly into Durango.  Picked her up on the Nero Corsa.

[Steve Cas]

Thanks for the ride report. 

Driving, car..sigh, from Silverton to Mesa Verde  and back July 8-10th. I haven't decided a route yet.  Any advice would be appreciated, routes and places to eat.

thanks
Steve

[rocker59]

Driving, car..sigh, from Silverton to Mesa Verde  and back July 8-10th. I haven't decided a route yet.  Any advice would be appreciated, routes and places to eat.

thanks
Steve

This one one of the greatest scenic loops you can drive/ride:  Google Map Link:  https://goo.gl/maps/Usm1z2McTAn

There are good options in every town along the way.   

Too bad you'll be driving instead of riding.    Rent a Jeep, though, and you could make it interesting by taking Ophir pass or Last Dollar Road to cut off some pavement...

[lucydad]

Rocker,

We fly into ABQ direct from Hobby airport on Southwest.  Direct fly into Durango is: more expensive, and always involves either gong thru Dallas, Denver or Phoenix.  And, Durango airport is notorious for poor service, delays due to security delays, lack of rental car parking, etc.  Besides we always stop in Cuba, NM for red or green at Brunos.  ABQ airport is superb, so is Hobby.

Need to clean up pictures, and or add a bit.

Construction delay between Ouray and Silverton is significant right now.  Buddy met me in Silverton for lunch, drove over from Delta.  He said road was a mess, and traffic high.  Talked to a couple riders and they were also shaking their heads.  Not sure when CO Highways will be done with Red Mountain pass.

I will add the Suzuki Wee-strom was an ok bike, maybe two stars.  "Appliance like" comes to mind.   Had enough power if wound up.  Engine was bland, so was handling, but it got me there and back.

[rocker59]

Rocker,

We fly into ABQ direct from Hobby airport on Southwest.  Direct fly into Durango is: more expensive, and always involves either gong thru Dallas, Denver or Phoenix.  And, Durango airport is notorious for poor service, delays due to security delays, lack of rental car parking, etc.  Besides we always stop in Cuba, NM for red or green at Brunos.  ABQ airport is superb, so is Hobby.

Red flew through Denver on that trip and it was pretty seamless.  I liked the Durango airport, and was glad I didn't have to pick her up in ABQ.  It was worth the hundred dollars more.  But I understand wanting to stop in Cuba.   
 

Construction delay between Ouray and Silverton is significant right now.  Buddy met me in Silverton for lunch, drove over from Delta.  He said road was a mess, and traffic high.  Talked to a couple riders and they were also shaking their heads.  Not sure when CO Highways will be done with Red Mountain pass.

Probably when Red Mountain completely erodes!  LOL!  They've been having troubles in that slide area off and on for awhile!

I will add the Suzuki Wee-strom was an ok bike, maybe two stars.  "Appliance like" comes to mind.   Had enough power if wound up.  Engine was bland, so was handling, but it got me there and back.

Yeah, my mind, too...

[rboe]

"uh was watching fractal patterns on a tree" Ok, he gets props for best original excuse. I loved it. 

I buddy went from the Stelvio to the Wee Strom (he could not control his throttle hand so it was going to kill him or he would loose his license). I took it on parking lot hop and my short initial impression: Mini quota. The older I get the more I appreciate appliance bikes.  For some odd reason, I have yet to here someone say "but it's only a 650" with the V-Strom. Some bike are immune to that criticism and the V-Strom is one of them.

[LowRyter]

sounds interesting.  I am taking a road trip to Colo.  I would like to take a day and practice some trail/adv touring.  I'd need a bike, gear, and a route.  I'd like 100- 200 miles of a dirt ride.  Nothing too serious since I need practice.  I'll contact this business. 

Is there any particular route?  (I've ridden the million dollar hiway, looking for dirt)

[lucydad]

Low,

There are many, many dirt trails in SW Colorado.  He mainly rents the KTM bikes.  Hope you are tall.  A favorite dirt ride of mine, from way-way back was up Missionary Ridge.

[rocker59]

sounds interesting.  I am taking a road trip to Colo.  I would like to take a day and practice some trail/adv touring.  I'd need a bike, gear, and a route.  I'd like 100- 200 miles of a dirt ride.  Nothing too serious since I need practice.  I'll contact this business. 

Is there any particular route?  (I've ridden the million dollar hiway, looking for dirt)

Not too technical.  From Telluride to Dallas Divide:  Last Dollar Road.

Not too technical.  From Silverton to Animas Forks ghost town.

One of the least technical high gravel passes:  Ophir Pass between Ophir and Silverton.

[charlie b]

That construction on 550 did cause a delay when I was up there in May.  The only real problem for me is I had too much fluid after I left Ridgway  :)  It was about a 40min delay and I was near the front of the line.

I thought riding on those switchbacks was a bit unnerving the first time I did it years ago.  But, watching the guys run those bobcats and mini steam shovels on the OTHER side of the guardrail made me pucker.  :)

You guys need to drive up through Chama instead.  A little longer but much nicer road/scenery and good places to eat in Chama as well (or Santa Fe if you take the time to get off the bypass).

[charlie b]

I always wondered if you could take a road bike on the Ophir pass road.  Rocks, ruts up there?

[LowRyter]

Not too technical.  From Telluride to Dallas Divide:  Last Dollar Road.

Not too technical.  From Silverton to Animas Forks ghost town.

One of the least technical high gravel passes:  Ophir Pass between Ophir and Silverton.

Thanks Michael.     

[fotoguzzi]

nice report LD..