Author Topic: November 1975 Convert (Read 10773 times)

BMCMOTO · « **on:** July 01, 2016, 06:52:43 AM »

Gentlemen,
School me!
I have acquired, last night, for a not unreasonable sum, a running driving November 1975 built 71,000 mile Convert. It seems that most all pieces are present, correct turn signals and so on. It has bags attached that are larger than original but seem workable with latch replacement. It is well worn and some pieces are missing, right side switches, but mostly complete, leaking here and there, needs top end reseal, there is also some leakage from transmission area.
I'm not sure what I will or want do with this. I've wanted one for a long time. I can make room for it. I have so many projects already. It needs so much cosmetically.
I guess I'll wash it up, degrease it and get a better look.
Pictures when I figure how to get them off my phone GRRRRRRR!

Brian

chuck peterson · « **Reply #1 on:** July 01, 2016, 07:05:15 AM »

If it ain't broke, don't fix it...resurrected a 78 that was leaking from ever seal....clean her down, start picking things off one at a time

Guzziology from d. Richardson at moto international

Yahoo convert discussion group

This old tractor.com for Greg benders site

I like low range for everything not interstate...but you have to twist the throttle twice as far to get up up to speed...the it'll coast like a magic carpet

Suspension upgrades had the best effect on rideability

guzzisteve · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2016, 08:52:42 AM »

Is it a black & white model?

dsrdave · « **Reply #3 on:** July 01, 2016, 12:25:11 PM »

Id take a look in the timing hole to see if the stamped steel flywheel has been replaced with a cast iron one. The tranny leak will probably just get worse. Mine did. Not an expensive fix, mostly o rings an a couple seals, but it is time consuming as the trans has to come out. Do not remove the torque converter if possible. Moto intl. has a kit available to provide what you need to fix leaks on the trans. Good luck, dave.

rodekyll · « **Reply #4 on:** July 01, 2016, 03:37:28 PM »

+1 on not messing with the /c and flywheel unless you have to. IF you have to, peen the t/c and flywheel so you put it back together the same way. Also, the t/c needs to be manually centered with a dial indicator to <0.001 runout. 's not easy.

'75 may or may not have the light flywheel. If it does, if you're in there, change to the heavy one. You can lighten the heavy one if you prefer, but the stamped on is stamped with the mark of the demon.

The earliest 'verts had an odd key-and-slot coupling for the fluid pump. Later ones have a hex drive. Both suck, but the earlier one sucks more worse. In the nlikely event that you still have the old style coupler, you'll need the upgraded camshaft and pump. I have only seen one of the blade style coupler in prson, and have only heard it mentioned a fw times in the last 10 years or so, so it's unlikely that you've got one.

good luck with it, they are nice rides.

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2016, 06:44:18 PM »

Picture I think!

Tom · « **Reply #6 on:** July 01, 2016, 06:48:29 PM »

Fun ride. Degrease first. Take it for a ride then bring back and park over newsprint to see what specifically is leaking. Come back and post. As state before low range will work in almost all cases. Get back to us.

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2016, 06:53:49 PM »

I keep getting error messages using the image uploader.

Brian

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #8 on:** July 01, 2016, 07:09:30 PM »

Ok I think I figured out the image thing. Sissy bar and plexi-fairing are already gone, took off the Sporster mufflers and cobby extensions. Tried to fit some Bubs I have, no go, hitting axle on drive side. Looks like I will need correct mufflers if I retain the luggage. Yes the plan at this stage is to degrease and maybe ride sparingly. I have no idea what to look for in the timing hole to differentiate between the two fly wheel variants. The timing cover will have to come off at some point to install an appropriate chain tensioner, will inspect pump drive at that time. Isn't somebody working on an electric pump solution for converts? Maybe that's a solution if the drive system is not up to par. Guzziology research tonight!!

Brian

Tom · « **Reply #9 on:** July 01, 2016, 07:29:08 PM »

The bike doesn't look that bad. I was expecting worse.

chuck peterson · « **Reply #10 on:** July 01, 2016, 08:05:35 PM »

Bubs! Oh thy glorious noise of the gods...flat long ones stamped G5/v1000? Needs new stuffing every once in awhile? Drill out a rivet?..vert motor will love you for it...just need an extension bracket of some kind to lower the mufflers below the axle...alternativel y drop a bracket from the back top rail, to the back few inches of the muffler...?Makes a glorious noise...raise the needle a notch, off you go

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #11 on:** July 01, 2016, 09:39:20 PM »

Yes Chuck those are the ones. I had thought to do just that, lengthen the bracket to drop the muffler, a kludge but workable for the interim. I'm not really a fan of the Bubs though they're better than the Sportster cans that also didn't fit. I find the Bub's excessively loud, though a bike that is not shifted doesn't have the rise and fall of sound so maybe I'll like them better on the Vert. I strongly dislike loud motorcycles on the street. Watching E-Bay for originals now, one set going, not to badly priced yet. I pulled into a parking lot a while back riding our Breva 750, two fellow riders that I know commented on the quietness of my bike, I replied that motorcycles don't need to be loud, their jaws dropped and they both wandered away muttering amongst themselves. I'm afraid I offended them, they both ride very loud V-Twins from Milwaukee, Wi. with aftermarket pipes. Truly they seemed shocked at my reply, I think they sought to offend me and correct my slacking behavior and lack of menace to my fellow humans. I really, really, dislike loud pipes!

Brian

Tom · « **Reply #12 on:** July 02, 2016, 03:29:59 PM »

They're part of the "LOUD pipes save lives." crowd. Open pipes if it helps efficiency works but usually doesn't have to be obnoxiously loud.

redrider90 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 02, 2016, 03:35:22 PM »

Quote from: JNMathews on July 01, 2016, 07:18:13 AM

I send pictures from my phone using the texting feature, but mail them to my email address. Then just have to pull them out of the spam folder.

(I only post this so I can see pics of your new/old Convert.)

I pair my phone with my computer via Bluetooth file exchange (Mac) and download them directly into into the Mac. Not sure if Windows offers that option?

StuCorpe · « **Reply #14 on:** July 02, 2016, 04:03:20 PM »

Bluetooth to computer works fine, at least in 7, haven't tried it on my 10 computer yet.

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #15 on:** July 03, 2016, 06:14:17 AM »

This bike has bags, bags with the profile of the stockers however they are presumably some 2 1/4" wider. There is a widening piece installed in the center of each bag. I've been around Guzzis for a long time and have never seen this, each bag has two of the standard type latches at each end set close together like someone spliced them together from multiple bags, it certainly looks professionally done. Anyone ever seen this done or know what I might have, a friend wondered if they might be some police bag from the factory?? All the images of converts with police equipment I can find either have standard bags or wider ones of a different design. I'll get some pictures up later in the day.

These are the times I miss Larry Klein at GT Motors the most. This would have been most fun to share with him!!!

Brian

rodekyll · « **Reply #16 on:** July 03, 2016, 01:09:10 PM »

The oem bags were 'lunchbox' style and probably didn't lend themselves to the mod you describe. Pics would help. More likely you've got some double-ended bates or shoei bags there.

Most bags of that era were designed for show, not go. Most (DB and Bates fats being exceptions) were the wrong size and shape to even fit loose water. But a lot of bags had a seam around them that could be parted and the panel you speak of inserted. So I suspect that's what you've got.

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #17 on:** July 03, 2016, 02:52:26 PM »

Images I hope

Several photos showing flywheel, transmission vent I wasn't aware of, bags, ventilated alternator cover, little string ties all over bike etc.. She's a little cleaner today. Wow have quarter carwashes gone up $1.75 for about 10 minutes, must be a good business to be in. Hung the Bub mufflers with a made from junk bracket not pretty but effective.

Brian

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #18 on:** July 03, 2016, 05:13:20 PM »

After the high pressure wash unveiled the transmission breather today, I figured I better get whatever was in there out, nowhere near 600cc that are called for, more like 60-100cc. I have run across several bolts that are drilled for safety wire, the transmission drain plug was one of those sealed with an o-ring, these appear to be store bought pre drilled bolts, pretty fancy. I wonder if some previous owner was into aircraft or some thing where safety wiring is common, sure ain't no race bike. Pig in a poke. I'm still happy and will muddle along repairing this and that. Checked valves on one side today, about .005", backed off and re-torqued heads, very loose, my wrench won't torque in reverse so don't really know how loose. Before washing there was quite a bit of oil around the head / cylinder junction, could have been loose enough to leak I suppose, the oil line is the more likely suspect I think, it's pretty well worn and is the first piece I'll replace, with a Fren Tubo piece. I'm really enjoying this so far, I really like the learning process.

Brian

rodekyll · « **Reply #19 on:** July 03, 2016, 05:38:46 PM »

The vent is over the clutch cavity, which should be dry.

gearbox fluid level is measured to that little shelf you see when you pull the filler plug. Always pull filler plug before drain plug.

fill atf to bottom of stick. don't worry about the half-empty tank. It likes it that way cuz it's got that gastric reflux effect engineered into it and the burp needs somewhere to go. Use aviation hydraulic fluid MIL-6505-H (?) Phillips and Shell both make it. I have the # written down or someone will check it for us. Buy the gallon. Us Convert owners purge the automotive atf and use aviation hydraulic fluid since the originally-specified DEXRON is no longer made. And no. modern atf is all crap in a convert. Don't use it, don't discuss it, don't argue. Don't even smell like it when you visit. I'm done with the debate, and this is the answer.

30

Sportsterleroy · « **Reply #20 on:** July 03, 2016, 05:49:48 PM »

Is that inspection hole Picture of the SALAD DISH flywheel?

Leroy In Cleveland

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #21 on:** July 03, 2016, 06:31:23 PM »

Yes, Leroy that is the light flywheel. I'm going to leave it for now, this is a running driving bike, I will fix certain low exertion things now and hold the big jobs for later if at all. I need to ride it some to see if I want to keep it or pass it on to someone more passionate than I.
RK thanks for that bit about the vent, never having had one apart I was wondering why such a large opening. I assume that what goes in the clutch cavity from the vent can find it's way out the bottom? When I drained the gear box it became evident it wasn't for the gear box. Is there a vent for the gear box I haven't found? This still has some kind of red fluid, who knows what, but it shows on the dipstick. I will change the fluid in the future and will follow your advice.
RK I respect your long association with converts and I am above all other things teachable. Ben Franklin said " Experience is a dear school, a fool will learn in no other." or words to that affect. My Mother raised no fools and was happy to say so, I trusted my Mother. Without the experience shared here by you and others I would never have considered buying one of these bikes. I am very grateful for your counsel and I knew that I could count on you. Thank you!
I don't think it's been ridden much in the last few years. I'll start with some short rides around town, within easy trailer retrieval range and see how she goes.

Brian

Antietam Classic Cycle · « **Reply #22 on:** July 03, 2016, 06:35:57 PM »

Quote from: bmc5733946 on July 03, 2016, 06:31:23 PM

Yes, Leroy that is the light flywheel. I'm going to leave it for now

Buy a good used heavy flywheel now - this will guarantee that the stamped one will never fail.

Working so far for my friend Leo.

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #23 on:** July 03, 2016, 06:57:09 PM »

My thinking exactly Charlie!! Take rain gear, never rains! I think I've got one lined up. There are a few on the bay right now. I think I can find one locally for less and no shipping. I'm really looking forward to riding this bike. Tires are pretty bad and tires are expensive. I'll have to see if gentle riding convinces me to carry on with complete reconditioning. I do have an SP fairing and lowers, so many possibilities are available for experimenting with this platform, should be great fun.

Brian

Antietam Classic Cycle · « **Reply #24 on:** July 03, 2016, 07:26:38 PM »

Quote from: bmc5733946 on July 03, 2016, 06:57:09 PM

Tires are pretty bad and tires are expensive. I'll have to see if gentle riding convinces me to carry on with complete reconditioning.

Tires are bad: replace tires or risk your life? No contest for me - replace tires. A pair of Shinko 230s will cost ~ $135 a pair from American Motorcycle Tire. I've been running them on my Ambo and am very pleased. Rear lasted 9k miles, the front is due at 11k miles. Excellent traction wet or dry, easy to mount, usually need very little if any weight to balance. IRC tubes are ~ $30 a pair. Cheaper than a hospital visit.

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #25 on:** July 03, 2016, 08:24:56 PM »

Yeah, I probably won't ride it out of my four square block residential neighborhood until I replace the tires. Those are good prices Charlie thanks for the Shinko 230 recommendation. Money has been tight and I really hesitated to buy this bike knowing it needed some spent to get it going well. Today at the auto parts house I frequent the boss asked if I was still looking for work. I've known him for 35 years and trained him on the counter way back when. I had asked him for a part time job a while ago. Hopefully this works out and then I can start spending some on this bike. I am determined to get this bike going as well as I can with what money I have.

Brian

dsrdave · « **Reply #26 on:** July 03, 2016, 08:27:49 PM »

No, there is no drain hole for the clutch cavity. It's best to drill a hole in the bottom to allow any seepage to drain out. If if becomes more than an occasional drip a seal or oring has expired.

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #27 on:** July 03, 2016, 09:48:13 PM »

Thanks Dave I'll try to do that tomorrow because I know some quantity of water entered while washing. Would anyone have instructions for drilling the cavity? I didn't even spot the vent until I was pushing it out of the wash bay. This bike had so much caked on grease, grime etc. everywhere that things appeared seemingly from nowhere. I had leafed through the parts book online several times to familiarize myself with the different bits. I obviously missed that bit. I now believe I probably missed some other things as well viewing the books online. I think I will print the manuals for better viewing. Thanks for the help.

Brian

rodekyll · « **Reply #28 on:** July 03, 2016, 11:32:34 PM »

I'd drill it on the clutch cavity side of the seam where the clutch cavity meets the 'bell housing'-- 1/4" hole should do it.

BMCMOTO · « **Reply #29 on:** July 04, 2016, 05:03:19 AM »

Sounds like a plan RK! Thanks.

Brian

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Author Topic: November 1975 Convert (Read 10773 times)