Author Topic: ...Bassa Talk - Front end pulse dives when using foot brake (Read 24881 times)

Tom H · « **Reply #90 on:** September 28, 2016, 01:24:28 AM »

So you have a rear end leak, might want to lay off the burritos at the local burger joint

Two things could be happening. Spline lube could be hot and dripping, or a seal has gone bad.

This excessively hot weather the last few days can cause all kinds of things that may not have shown up in cooler weather.

You already cleaned it once and the leak showed up again. Did you smell the fluid that leaked out? Did it smell like conventional gear oil (don't know what's in your rear drive, syn or conv)?

I would check the level of the rear drive oil to start with to make sure your not running low. If your pretty sure that it's the gear oil that's leaking, it' most likely that the large seal has gone bad. Do a search here on how to replace. On my old bikes it's easiest to replace with the read drive off the bike, but it can be done with the drive still installed, but at least the wheel removed.

Once you have access to the seal, it's about a 15 minute job provided that you don't have a conventional gear oil build up where the seal meets the drive gear. Then it could be as simple as a good scrubbing with a rag, or needing a light sanding to clean the drive gear.

I was chasing a rear drive leak on my Eldo and had to completely disassemble the rear drive. Still not sure of what fixed it, the inner seal or a good cleaning/light sanding of the drive gear seal area and a new seal there as well.

Hope this helps a bit!
Tom

normzone · « **Reply #91 on:** September 28, 2016, 12:46:30 PM »

I changed the ~~transmission~~ gearbox and final drive oils last night, so I have a fresh supply of goop to drip on the rear wheel. I'm using the Redline pink stuff.

I'll need a rear tire in a couple thousand miles, so maybe put the bike in the shop for that and ask them to do the seal while they're at it.

Then comes the decision tree - how deep should I ask them to go ? Do it with it on the bike? If they take it off, how much other maintenance advised I could delegate at that time?

Today's update - it did not leak today.

normzone · « **Reply #92 on:** October 05, 2016, 06:27:35 PM »

I am reminded by [antmanbee]'s thread regarding the leaking CalVin final drive seal to update this report ... but first, a word from our sponsor.

Fish ... Yes, fish, because it's good for you, although other things are good for you also. And now, we return you to our regularly scheduled program.

So, since it was due, I changed the oils in the gearbox and the final drive, and I washed the rear wheel and final drive.

And the damn thing is not leaking any more. Does that sound like a complaint ? Because I'm not complaining.

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #93 on:** October 05, 2016, 06:41:46 PM »

you did remember to re-fill after the drain right?

Tom H · « **Reply #94 on:** October 05, 2016, 06:47:52 PM »

:1: :1: :1: :1:

Tom

Tom · « **Reply #95 on:** October 05, 2016, 07:48:25 PM »

Have you ridden it since the oil change??? Hopefully it's not leaking.

rodekyll · « **Reply #96 on:** October 05, 2016, 10:09:02 PM »

Quote from: normzone on October 05, 2016, 06:27:35 PM

I am reminded by [antmanbee]'s thread regarding the leaking CalVin final drive seal to update this report ... but first, a word from our sponsor.

Fish ... Yes, fish, because it's good for you, although other things are good for you also. And now, we return you to our regularly scheduled program.

[snip]

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Back to you, Norm.

normzone · « **Reply #97 on:** October 06, 2016, 11:28:38 AM »

Thanks, [rodekyll]. Yes, here at the studios, we eat wild when we can and farm raised when circumstances dictate. And now back to our story...

Yes, gentlemen, I did put oil in it, and I have flogged it on multiple occasions since then. The only difference is I have not worked it light to light around town on a baking hot day, since we haven't had any since and I try not to do that anyway when I can avoid it.

In my memory the leaked fluid looked more like the gearbox oil than the red stuff I run in the final drive - but it seems unlikely that the gearbox goop would make it to the hub and leak out there - doesn't it? Who knows - not me. I never lost control. You're face to face with the man who sold the world...

Tom · « **Reply #98 on:** October 06, 2016, 02:38:54 PM »

Quote from: Tom on October 05, 2016, 07:48:25 PM

Have you ridden it since the oil change??? Hopefully it's not leaking.

Soooooo, see above. ????

normzone · « **Reply #99 on:** October 18, 2016, 01:14:57 PM »

So now that my leaking final drive has ceased to leak, with only an oil change and a wash, I'm on to other issues.

There's been this annoying buzz coming from somewhere beneath me, usually at a given point in the accell/decel curve. I thought it was an exhaust pipe baffle, but I began looking around and identified possibles like the side covers or the foot brake.

So the next time it happened, I put the side of my boot against the foot brake and it went away. Did this a few times to confirm - Bingo!

So the hardware is locking, probably not much to be done there, but I will see if there's anything to be gained by a slight snugging.

It's sprinkling in San Diego, the roads are for $#!+

Tom · « **Reply #100 on:** October 18, 2016, 02:28:09 PM »

Wear earplugs and it won't bother you.

radguzzi · « **Reply #101 on:** October 18, 2016, 08:14:44 PM »

Quote from: normzone on October 18, 2016, 01:14:57 PM

So now that my leaking final drive has ceased to leak, with only an oil change and a wash, I'm on to other issues.

There's been this annoying buzz coming from somewhere beneath me, usually at a given point in the accell/decel curve. I thought it was an exhaust pipe baffle, but I began looking around and identified possibles like the side covers or the foot brake.

So the next time it happened, I put the side of my boot against the foot brake and it went away. Did this a few times to confirm - Bingo!

So the hardware is locking, probably not much to be done there, but I will see if there's anything to be gained by a slight snugging.

It's sprinkling in San Diego, the roads are for $#!+

Hey Norman,
I will bet that the buzz is emanating from either the side stand bumper having gone missing and the square pad is hitting the muffler....or The front engine bolt is slightly loose and a washer is buzzing...

Both are real life Guzzi experiences that have happened to me. The latter nearly gave me a heart attack on the 2000 Bassa thinking that I had a small end bushing sounding off... Imagine my glee to find that loose bolt/nut combination.

Best,
Rob

Tom · « **Reply #102 on:** October 18, 2016, 08:42:32 PM »

:1: on the loose bolt.

normzone · « **Reply #103 on:** November 01, 2016, 11:02:40 AM »

Good morning, and welcome back to Bassa Talk if you're one of our loyal listeners, and you just found us on your internet radio dial, thanks for joining us.

Those of you who live in places that get cold (you know who you are) will have little sympathy for me. And those amongst you who are dawn patrol types, either by nature or need, will scoff at my pain. But we all draw different cards, and we play the hand we're dealt.

I don't do mornings well by nature - my sleep cycle starts late - I'm more of a night owl. But the world asks me to join it in the morning, and I do the best I can. My employer made a documented request regarding this issue, and compliance is required.

It was down in the low fifties this morning when I went to start the bike, and it took several minutes and a couple of dozen attempts. Please put down your coffee and when you're done snorting and chuckling, I'd appreciate your counsel regarding a course of actions.

UPDATE: Well, the interweb, which is a series of pipes connected together, suggests that new spark plugs won't hurt but won't really accomplish anything. I'm getting plenty of cranking power from the battery, and plenty of spark.

And a new air filter won't hurt, since the current one has six thousand miles on it, which is when the Guzzi manual recommends a change. I've got spare plugs and filters.

The bike turns over and tries to catch, at which point I get off the starter button so it's not simultaneously partially running AND being starter motor driven. So of course it dies then. The interweb says that the real issue is that fuel does not vaporize as well at lower air temperatures. The interweb also says that fuel injection solves that problem.

twhitaker · « **Reply #104 on:** November 01, 2016, 12:22:01 PM »

Perhaps there is a lever on your left handlebar most would call a choke but is actually an idle speed raiser. You might want to lube the cable first with something not so sensitive to the 'cold'.

normzone · « **Reply #105 on:** November 01, 2016, 01:44:43 PM »

Thank you, [twhitaker]. I've read the discussion threads where that is referred to as a fast idle cable, since it does not actually choke anything like the choke plates on the carbs I grew up with did.

I played with that this morning and the bike ignored my efforts. If it doesn't want to catch and beginning running, then offering it more fuel either by the fast idle cable or the hand throttle does not impress it.

If I'm fated to have to make a score of starting attempts before the cold engine will catch, then that will be my lot. I don't have a method I can keep it warmer (I can hear my eastern brethren not sympathizing much).

I have a neighbor who rides some kind of rice rocket that starts up at 6:50 AM every day, and his catches on the second try. I wonder what he's got going that I don't.

Tom H · « **Reply #106 on:** November 01, 2016, 01:55:51 PM »

The choke lever is just a fast idle lever.

With warm weather my Cali starts with a 1-2 second or less crank in the morning. The last few mornings I've had to advance the throttle a little and crank maybe 2-3 seconds or less. Normally starts on the first try. I also wait for the fuel pump to finish it's prime or whatever it does when you turn the key and or flip the kill switch to run. This does seem to help no matter the weather.

I would check your plugs to start with. If you have a new set, put them in a see if it makes a difference. Air filter would be next.

Good luck!
Tom

normzone · « **Reply #107 on:** November 01, 2016, 02:28:58 PM »

Thanks [Tom]. Given that the plugs can be done in seconds, this will yield experimentally valid info. I'll change them tonight and we'll have a data point tomorrow. The air filter will have to wait for the weekend.

Maybe I should invent ... the engine sweater.

Available in turtleneck or button front. Color options are limited, so order yours now.

redrider · « **Reply #108 on:** November 01, 2016, 02:37:20 PM »

For whatever reason, the V11 has a habit of needing a bit of throttle in addition to the fast ide lever set full on, in cooler weather. That be low 70s F. A quick blip of the throttle during the first ignition cough always results in that lumpy grumpy idle we all enjoy. Perhaps the memory of "the last running conditions" is confusing the suck squeeze bang blow life form. As some one else said- "the perversities of air cooled engines" cause strange things. I have some V11 maps if you want to try them.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #109 on:** November 01, 2016, 02:46:31 PM »

How about doing something that doesn't cost anything? <Guzzi content> Pull the relays, and if you don't have any magic DeOxit, wiggle them around when you put them back in. Do the same with the fuses. If you *do* have some magic DeOxit, spray that in the relay and fuse bases before reinserting. Report back.
If that doesn't do it, do the same thing with anything electrical you can find.

You *are* waiting for the fuel pump to prime before punching the button.. right?

oldbike54 · « **Reply #110 on:** November 01, 2016, 03:00:31 PM »

No idea if there is any validity to this , but a forum member with a much better understanding of how this generation of bikes work advises to turn the key on and let the ECU "think" for a few seconds before hitting the start button . Might be Voodoo , but it doesn't cost anything .

Dunno what is wrong with your MC Norm , tight valve(s) TPS out of spec , injector problems , it simply doesn't like you and wants a new home , or something else . However , there is something amiss and it might be time to let a pro take a look .

Dusty

Tom · « **Reply #111 on:** November 01, 2016, 03:15:58 PM »

Fuel injected anything. Turn the ignition on. Wait a couple of seconds then engage the starter circuit. Everything needs to be engaged before starting. (technical term)

Kiwi_Roy · « **Reply #112 on:** November 01, 2016, 03:27:13 PM »

I believe the ECU adjusts the amount of fuel it adds based on temperature.
Is it possible you are taking it out from the nice warm garage and it's sucking in cold air?

GuzziDiag might let you make the mixture a bit richer for a few seconds like the MyECUs do
otherwise you could fool it into thinking it's colder than it really is by adding some resistance in series with the air temperature sensor.
If it's a P8 ECU you could mess with the brass screw.

John A · « **Reply #113 on:** November 01, 2016, 04:35:21 PM »

do you cycle the kill switch between start attempts ? just turn off then on between failed start attempts . works for me

Tom · « **Reply #114 on:** November 01, 2016, 04:36:26 PM »

:1: Forgot about that. Good reminder.

normzone · « **Reply #115 on:** November 01, 2016, 04:57:18 PM »

Thanks all so much. Emotional purple prose deleted in this space. I'm having a rough week.

" a bit of throttle in addition to the fast idle lever set full on, in cooler weather. That be low 70s F "
I don't use the lever, just give it manual throttle as seems appropriate. If I recall my experiments with the lever yielded no variation. I will try again and report.

What is the best method to exchange map data?

I will acquire some magic DeOxit and use it on all vaguely appropriate surfaces - is it labeled differently from the non-magic stuff?

I always turn the key, listen for the fuel pump's sigh of relief, and give the ECU a while to consider the error of it's ways.

It's been a few miles since I did the valves, I'll schedule that. But they have not been that far out when I do visit them - a thou or two loose, if memory serves me well.

Been trying to budget for a pro tuner, but life has other ideas.

The bike sleeps outside under a roof, no cover. I used to watch my horses grow winter coats, but so far no sign of that on the Bassa.

I'm pretty sure I have the 15 ECU.

Never heard of cycling the kill switch between start attempts, but it wouldn’t cost anything (guzzi content ;-)

beetle · « **Reply #116 on:** November 01, 2016, 05:13:39 PM »

15X ECU? CO trim is your friend. Alternatively, I am happy to tweak a Bassa map for you.

oldbike54 · « **Reply #117 on:** November 01, 2016, 05:23:40 PM »

Quote from: beetle on November 01, 2016, 05:13:39 PM

15X ECU? CO trim is your friend. Alternatively, I am happy to tweak a Bassa map for you.

Oo Oo Oo ,

Beetle's Happy Maps

Dusty

Tom H · « **Reply #118 on:** November 01, 2016, 05:29:28 PM »

To use GuzziDiag the only cost is the cables to hook a laptop, tablet, desk top PC that runs windows (seems easiest to get set up right). I use a cheap tablet that only has a micro usb, but I have an adapter for the cable.

If your serious about getting GD working, read/skim though the tutorial and it has links for the cables from Lonelec (SP) or look for one of my posts for them on Amazon.

You might even have someone in your are that can stop by with GD and see how the bikes doing.

My bikes are outside as well, do yourself and the bike a favor, get a cover. The ones I use are about $90 and are worth the money. They last about 5 years or so.

Good luck,
Tom

redrider · « **Reply #119 on:** November 01, 2016, 06:46:13 PM »

I used CO trim to cover up that stutter stumble around 3200 rpm. Does Beetle have something better for the V11? I use the 02 LeMans map now.

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Author Topic: ...Bassa Talk - Front end pulse dives when using foot brake (Read 24881 times)

redrider

oldbike54

beetle

oldbike54

redrider