NGC automotive fault code need help Mazda tribute/ford escape

[fotoguzzi]

I need to get an OBD 2 code reader..  back story..
2003 Mazda Tribute/same as ford escape..
blew radiator and it sprayed all over engine top.. finally got new radiator in, that's fine now..
But engine has a miss and the engine symbol came on, disconnected battery and it was off for about 10 miles, engine ran rough at idle but seemed to clear up on road-at first..
light now flashes so I turned around and left it at my dad's house where I did the radiator.. thankyou DR for getting me home!
I looked on Google and some of the possibilities are frightening.. coil packs, intake gaskets etc..  I'm hoping just a few plug wires, wheres the cross fingers emoji?
at least I don't think any coolant in oil, didn't drain it but rocker looks fine under the cap and dip stick too..

so, what is the best least expensive code reader FOR THIS CAR?

[Two Checks]

take it to Auto Zoo or the like and they will check the codes for you.
Some vehicles have a built in reader. Turn the key to on (not start) then on, then off then on.
Either the check engine light will blink the codes (OBD) or the digital odometer will display the codes.

[fotoguzzi]

take it to Auto Zoo or the like and they will check the codes for you.
Some vehicles have a built in reader. Turn the key to on (not start) then on, then off then on.
Either the check engine light will blink the codes (OBD) or the digital odometer will display the codes.

I'll try that when I get back.

I don't want to drive it to autozone or the like, it's too far.. car is out in the country and want to know what's going on before I just drive it..

[guzzisteve]

I use an Actron  CP9125 Pocket scan code reader, works great on the Jeep, Mazda3, Mazda5, and a Chevy Equinox. I got it at Advance Auto for bout $65.

[V7Record]

Brad, I've got a Scan Gauge II I can loan you, want me to bring it to COB tomorrow?
Gives numerical codes, you'll have to look them up online by yourself.  Can clear codes too.
Brian

[fotoguzzi]

wow, Thanks Brian.. I don't work in the COB now while session is out..
my Dad says it's something we should have so he will probably put up the dough to buy one..if not I'll get back to you.. 

[Steve Scott]

For simply dumping and clearing codes there are many options including some that Bluetooth to your phone for $20 or less. 'Pretty handy if you're gonna Google the codes anyway. I'd advise a proper scan tool that features live data review because it makes troubleshooting easier.

My trusty old Actron CP9180 met an untimely end recently and I'll replace it with another Actron, probably a CP9690. The graphing, ABS and SRS capability look like fun.

[CalVin2007]

  If that's a 3.0 v6 Tribute my money's on a coil or two...each cyl has its own coil/plug lead/boot that sits atop the spark plug. If you are lucky it's one of the front three since that's where the water/coolant sprayed. If it's a rear coil the upper intake and all the crap on top of it has to come off to get to the three rears. My wife has an '02 and I've put several coils on the damned thing over five years. Very bad design. Yeah...you need a code reader.
  Terry

[Rough Edge racing]

 I've had a little experience with the V6 Escape...I believe I mentioned it in another post...Coil packs fall and so do the intake manifolds. The engines do not tolerate overheating.... But from what you say it sounds like ignition...
 Hand held inexpensive scanners work ok but some problems require a better scanner that can read fuel trims. and so on.. And if it's a particular code, it might just be masking another code...

[elvisboy77]

For less than $20 on Amazon.com you can get one that WIFIs or Bluetooths to your smart phone.  The app is free for basic codes and for $9.00 you can get vehicle specific ones (using the Dash command app that is)

[rodekyll]

Or for the laptop you could get the equiv of a guzzidiag interface and one of the many computer-based softwares out there.  the official mazda stuff is only $100. 

http://www.scantoolsoftware.com/mazda-scan-tool.html

The interface cable is extra.
There are also a number of free betas and shareware that all assume you have a compliant cable, and go from really basic to quite sophisticated.  They generally list the cable you need.  Just search mazda obd2 software.

 Not saying laptop based diags is the preferred solution, only that it's a solution.  Me, I'd be collecting all this diagnostic software on a rugged computer and using it as a shop tool.  I think a phone or tablet is just too small to see and type into.

Oh, wait -- I'm doing that.

[fotoguzzi]

Brad, I've got a Scan Gauge II I can loan you, want me to bring it to COB tomorrow?
Gives numerical codes, you'll have to look them up online by yourself.  Can clear codes too.
Brian

sent PM.. I would like to borrow this weekend.. the choices are so vast i want to hold off buying my own..
can you bring it to the COB tomorrow, I'll be over at the VET GOV MTG.

Awe shucks, in a weak moment I ordered the BlueDriver  ($111. shipped) so might not need it..

[V7Record]

Brad, if you make it to COB I'll have it there.  PM'd my phone #.
If you don't make it but still want it for the weekend my house isn't much out of the way between your house and your dads and you can pick it up on your way, just let me know.
Brian

[fotoguzzi]

update, I bought the BlueDriver OBD reader .. uses bluetooth.. the app interface is great and it gave me fault codes.. then the device died, no connectivity on 3 different cars.. so the app nice, the actual unit tho FAILED AFTER 5 MINUTES!

It gave me the codes for missfire in cyl 4 & 6..  .. I found the plug tube for cyl 4 full of coolant that had sprayed in there when the radiator blew.. figured that was the problem so, got new spark plugs for #4 & 6 but the miss still there.

I didn't change the coils (1 each per plug) because they were $80.+ each at NAPA.. I see I can get a set of 6 on ebay for $34.  ordered them..

reason? I'm still not positive it is the coils causing the problem.. I thought if not firing the 4 & 6 plugs would come out black, they didn't..

I know the gap looks large but it's in spec.. calls for .58
.. I didn't notice anything looking like a vacuum leak and can't even see the injectors to stethoscope them (hear if they click) the Chiltons book troubleshooting guide'



this came on suddenly after the radiator blew and sprayed all over the top of engine (it has a cover tho) so I'm discounting the air and fuel filter and low compression as problem. the oil looks good and don't think any coolant in there..

any thoughts?

[rodekyll]

A radiator blowing is a symptom, not a disease.  Why did it blow?

Anitfreeze in all the wiring could be a problem.  I'd pull all the sensor and injector connectors, cap (if it's got one), etc and spray them down with contact cleaner (lectromotive or equiv).

[pat80flh]

Flashing check engine light indicates a misfire. I like to swap the coils to a different location, see if the misfire stays with the coil or the cylinder. You can do the same with plugs. A test lamp across the connector to the coil should flash on and off with engine running if the computer is capable of firing the coil.

  Water in the plug wells is a definite cause of misfire, those boots on the coils can be purchased separately. Or you could pull them out and spray them with a plastic ignition sealer for a temporary fix. Make sure there is no water in the main connectors for the coils and injectors.

[fotoguzzi]

A radiator blowing is a symptom, not a disease.  Why did it blow?
 

175,000 miles?  happened when a/c was turned on, my theory is the fan motor came on and rattled the fan housing which caused a puncture to the radiator. top passenger side..

added info, NAPA guy tested resistance on coils and said "probably in the range" he had a book but it didn't cover these particular coils..

  Water in the plug wells is a definite cause of misfire, those boots on the coils can be purchased separately. 

I did replace one boot..

if I swap coils around how can I determine which cyl is misfiring?  the fault code doesn't show up unless I drive for about 10 miles.. don't want to do that..

[rodekyll]

You got a way to test that theory?   

My first wife called me from a town called Ritzville, about halfway between her folks' home in Spokane and ours in Kennewick.  That's like the actual desert.  She said the radiator had burst a seam at the intersection of I90 and US395.  When I got there the problem was obvious -- no belt to the water pump.  I asked her when it threw the belt.  She said she didn't know, but the check engine light had been on all weekend.  Those Vista-Cruisers were tough!

She later did the same thing with a Corolla and the oil light.  This time got to Tokio, just up the street from Ritzville.  In her defense she said that this time when the light came on back in Spokane she checked the belt.  It was fine.

So I thought I'd ask.   

[pat80flh]

if I swap coils around how can I determine which cyl is misfiring?  the fault code doesn't show up unless I drive for about 10 miles.. don't want to do that..

You could do it the old fashioned way, pull the coil away while the engine is running, see if it makes the idle drop(power balance test). Careful you don't get zapped though.
 
  Does it take 10 miles before it misfires, or just the light? When you get your code reader back working, sometimes codes will set in the computer memory long before the light comes on. Some codes are "2 trip" codes, has to fail on 2 consecutive ignition cycles before the light comes on.

[Rough Edge racing]

You could do it the old fashioned way, pull the coil away while the engine is running, see if it makes the idle drop(power balance test). Careful you don't get zapped though.
 
  Does it take 10 miles before it misfires, or just the light? When you get your code reader back working, sometimes codes will set in the computer memory long before the light comes on. Some codes are "2 trip" codes, has to fail on 2 consecutive ignition cycles before the light comes on.

 Never test ignition by pulling off high tension wires while the engine is running...Always short out the wire to ground especially on modern ignitions...

[fotoguzzi]

the miss is always there from start up.. I disconnected the battery when I changed plugs which cleared the code.. I don't have to drive 10 miles to get the miss.. last time the light came on was 10 miles down the road, I drove it 1 mile and no light, still missing.

I have the other code reader borrowed from Brian.. so good there..

RK, water pump fine, belt is good..

[Noguzznoglory]

PLUS 1 on what pat80 said. Flashing MIL usually means a dead miss. Th light flashes because the oxygen sensor is detecting enough unburned fuel for potential converter damage.
You are probably on the right track with the coils and plugs. Try swapping coils as he suggested.
You can also buy used coils from a major auto recycler. For around 20 each. Not a JUNKYARD or a u- pull. Find one that inventories their parts and gurantees fit and function. Can probably get a lifetime guarantee if you willing to pay extra