2009 CalVin neutral light problem.

[janusz]

The problem with neutral light looks like is caused by some sort of switch or sensor which is located behind the chrome plate show on the picture below:




I had the bike in neutral and light was off but when I jiggle that plate a bit the light came on. Problem is I don't know how to get that plate out to fix possible connection issue, don't want to force it too much because something may get broken. I wonder if you know the trick which may help.




Thanks!

[Peter949]

Hi Janusz ... This is Peter here from the Ontario Guzzi Riders. We did meet up at the Lavigne rally.

As for that 'chrome cover' it looks to be the same type as on my 2004 EV California. To remove it you need a firm steady pull upwards and out, to lift it off the large spring clamp that holds it firmly to the solenoid above the starter motor.   Cheers,   Peter   

[Wayne Orwig]

I usually end up taking the nuts off of the top of the cover. It is a royal pain.
There is a major exposed hot wire from the battery to the starter under there. It may be wise to remove all of the ground wires from the battery to float the battery power.


In the end, you want to look at the sensor in the transmission BEHIND the starter. So you may be just as well off to unscrew the two long starter bolts and move it out of the way if you can, leaving the chromium bling in place on the starter.

[janusz]

Hi Janusz ... This is Peter here from the Ontario Guzzi Riders. We did meet up at the Lavigne rally.

As for that 'chrome cover' it looks to be the same type as on my 2004 EV California. To remove it you need a firm steady pull upwards and out, to lift it off the large spring clamp that holds it firmly to the solenoid above the starter motor.   Cheers,   Peter   

Hi Peter, I will try your suggestion. Hopefully nothing important will get busted :) Thanks a lot!

[janusz]

I usually end up taking the nuts off of the top of the cover. It is a royal pain.
There is a major exposed hot wire from the battery to the starter under there. It may be wise to remove all of the ground wires from the battery to float the battery power.


In the end, you want to look at the sensor in the transmission BEHIND the starter. So you may be just as well off to unscrew the two long starter bolts and move it out of the way if you can, leaving the chromium bling in place on the starter.

Wayne, you are seriously overestimate my wrenching abilities :) Except for battery disconnection I hardly understand what need to be done. I will do some research (google) and see if any enlightenment can be achieved that way.

The purchase of this bike took a toll on my work and I have to do 'catch up' this weekend to get a bit on the straight. I hope next weekend I will be able to commit more time to my bike. Thank you very much for your help.

[ejs]

 
The easy way to get to the connection , is to remove the 2 bolts that hold the starter. (13 mm heads)  battery cable to starter = 13 mm nut.

[Wayne Orwig]

BTW, you have a loose nut on the shifter shaft:

[janusz]

BTW, you have a loose nut on the shifter shaft:

This will explain why the shifting gets out of control after riding the bike for a while. Thanks Wayne!

Are you talking about those two long starter bolts as shown below?

[Wayne Orwig]

Quote from: janusz on Today at 08:12:57 PM

This will explain why the shifting gets out of control after riding the bike for a while. Thanks Wayne!

Are you talking about those two long starter bolts as shown below?

>





Yes (why are quotes messed up suddenly?)


With the battery power off, loosen those and pull the starter back. You should be able to get to the neutral switch. Sadly, they do go bad, and they aren't cheap.

[janusz]

Quote from: janusz on Today at 08:12:57 PM

This will explain why the shifting gets out of control after riding the bike for a while. Thanks Wayne!

Are you talking about those two long starter bolts as shown below?

>


Yes (why are quotes messed up suddenly?)


With the battery power off, loosen those and pull the starter back. You should be able to get to the neutral switch. Sadly, they do go bad, and they aren't cheap.

No idea, it is quite possible I deleted character or two from the quoted portion 

I will try to remove the starter and see if starter switch is causing problem but if you could indicate some symptoms which will let me determine usability of the switch I will greatly appreciate. Thanks!

[smdl]

Hi, Janusz. 

I'm happy to give you a hand sometime next weekend, if you don't get it sorted before then.  I haven't done a neutral switch before, but have had lots of fun removing starters and sorting shift linkages.  We should be able to get at the switch, at least, and the folks on WG should be able to help us with the switch itself, if needed.

Cheers,
Shaun

[guzzisteve]

I'll bet it's not the switch but the connector. Crappy female spade w/slot on the backside, slides on to a round disc on the switch I believe BUT I could be wrong. Just squeeze the connector tighter w/pair of needle nose and all is good.

[smdl]

I'll bet it's not the switch but the connector. Crappy female spade w/slot on the backside, slides on to a round disc on the switch I believe BUT I could be wrong. Just squeeze the connector tighter w/pair of needle nose and all is good.

Thanks, Steve.  Let's hope!

Shaun

[Tom H]

The connector is the likely suspect. The light could have a bad connection as well though.

But..I would like to add. At least on my old bikes, it was possible to twist the uumm stud (where you had to screw a nut on to connect the neutral light wire, now a spade) that is part of the flat lever inside the trans and make the neutral light either on or off by twisting the stud. The stud could rotate and make the flat part of it touch all the time or not make contact when it was supposed to.

To have the above happen, someone would have had to play with the neutral switch on the trans. Or maybe it was not centered right at the factory.

Just another thing to look at while your there.

Good luck!!!!!
Tom

[Wayne Orwig]

Quote from: Tom H on October 01, 2016, 11:37:45 PM

The connector is the likely suspect. The light could have a bad connection as well though.

But..I would like to add. At least on my old bikes, it was possible to twist the uumm stud (where you had to screw a nut on to connect the neutral light wire, now a spade) that is part of the flat lever inside the trans and make the neutral light either on or off by twisting the stud. The stud could rotate and make the flat part of it touch all the time or not make contact when it was supposed to.





The CalVin does not use the old 'flat lever' style switch. It is an actual plunger switch.
It does use a spade terminal on top that can get loose.

[Tom H]

I do apologize for that. I need to get better on my knowledge of the new bikes. It was just a thought while he was in there if the connector didn't solve the problem. I just thought that pretty much all the tans parts were still about the same design at least on the classic 5 speed style trans.

Thank you,
Tom