Some disassembly required: Griso SE fuel quick (snicker) release

[guzziownr]

Delving into the Griso's innards to fix a stripped front engine mounting point.

How does this thing come off again?




upload multiple images

[ken farr]

I apologize in advance.


There is pushing, there is pulling, there is some light twisting, there is all 3 at once and in various combinations.

There is swearing.  Yes, and some more swearing.

Somehow, after the appropriate amount of time, the quick connect gods, show mercy and pop....


like I said, I apologize.

kjf

[Cam3512]

Disconnect the electrics to the pump.  Hit the starter a few times to relieve the pressure. 

Push pull curse repeat...

[guzziownr]

...in a perfect world.  Does the collar slide towards the red elbow or away?

[Cam3512]

...in a perfect world.  Does the collar slide towards the red elbow or away?

If I remember correctly, it slides toward the elbow as you pull.  Light grease makes it easier next time.

[Bill Hagan]

Perhaps you have already seen, but, if not, you might consider Pete's words of wisdom about halfway down in this thread:

http://www.grisoghetto.com/t1078-the-mandello-oxymoron-fuel-line-quick-release

Oh, and good luck! 

Bill

[guzziownr]

"If I remember correctly, it slides toward the elbow as you pull."

Pull the line towards the elbow then slide the grey collar?

Thanks for the link Bill, if it is all too much I will use Pete's method quoted here:

"Don't bother trying to separate it if it doesn't want to come. Simply disconnect the fuel lines from the injectors by undoing the fasteners on the plastic fittings that hold both the injectors and their decorative *covers* on. Then gently and with great care pull the lines off the injectors. It's probably best to unplug them as this saves straining the plugs and wires.

The tank can then be lifted off SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY while an assistant feeds the hoses through the frame and rats nest of wiring. Make sure you don't accidentaly strain the tank fitting as you do this as, as we know, they are very frangible and prone to snapping."

[Cam3512]

"If I remember correctly, it slides toward the elbow as you pull."

Pull the line towards the elbow then slide the grey collar?

Push the collar toward the elbow and pull the line.  Key is to relieve the pressure in the line as I described in an earler post.  I bought a nice "quick release" I planned to put down line on my Calvin.  I sold the bike and it never happened.  PM me and I'll send it to you.

[Kiwi Dave]

Push the collar toward the elbow and pull the line.

Are you sure?  I push the hose towards the elbow, and then pull the collar away from the elbow, followed by a reverse of direction for the hose.  I agree running the motor and then disconnecting the fuel pump can help a little.

[guzziownr]

If I could get both hands on it like this dude it would be easy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo

[Cam3512]

Are you sure?  I push the hose towards the elbow, and then pull the collar away from the elbow, followed by a reverse of direction for the hose.  I agree running the motor and then disconnecting the fuel pump can help a little.

No, I'm not 100% sure.  It's been a few years since I had to do this on my Calvin.  The V7 is alot easier.

[normzone]

And this is what occurs when there are not proper design reviews.

" I apologize in advance."

No, somewhere there's an engineer who owes many people an apology.

[ohiorider]

Are you sure?  I push the hose towards the elbow, and then pull the collar away from the elbow, followed by a reverse of direction for the hose.  I agree running the motor and then disconnecting the fuel pump can help a little.

I believe you have it right.  I think you want to hold the hose firmly stationary while pulling the collar away from the elbow, then work the assembly off the elbow.  I'm only making this minor change to Kiwi Dave's description so you don't push the hose HARD toward the elbow and accidentally break the plastic elbow off of the fuel pump.  It isn't a stellar design.  And yes, disconnect power from the pump and start the engine to relieve fuel pressure.  It'll only run for a second.

[guzziownr]

O.K.  It seems that the Roper method has it's risks as well.  The connectors to the injectors are plenty "frangible" as well and the tiny allen holding it in place is stuck fast.  I am going to kick this can down the road, cut the line and put in a real quick disconnect when I piece this thing back together.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to the discussion   

[ITSec]

O.K.  It seems that the Roper method has it's risks as well.  The connectors to the injectors are plenty "frangible" as well and the tiny allen holding it in place is stuck fast.  I am going to kick this can down the road, cut the line and put in a real quick disconnect when I piece this thing back together.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to the discussion   

This is the correct answer. I put a metal fuel quick disconnect fitting (easily available from some motorcycle dealers, hot rod shops, JEGS, Summit or elsewhere) on my Norge and haven't had a headache with tank removal since. Pick the spot carefully when you cut the line so there's space for the larger diameter of the fitting. Oetiker-type crimp clamps are preferred to screw-clamps when putting the new part in.

[Bill Hagan]

This is the correct answer. I put a metal fuel quick disconnect fitting (easily available from some motorcycle dealers, hot rod shops, JEGS, Summit or elsewhere) on my Norge and haven't had a headache with tank removal since. Pick the spot carefully when you cut the line so there's space for the larger diameter of the fitting. Oetiker-type crimp clamps are preferred to screw-clamps when putting the new part in.

Yes. A good plan.

Yet, every time i go through that PITA exercise of removing tank, I say I'll do that ... then forget.  Doh.

While perhaps OBE now for you, I have had success by using an "itty bitty" (apologies for the tech talk )  long-neck flat-bladed screwdriver to push the plastic tangs off the of the hose off the flange ring on the fitting. 

Sounds incomprehensible after reading that back to myself, but "I know when I see it."   

Maybe if you stare at (yet again) it will make enough sense to try.

If not, that's why God smiles on whisky.   

Buon fortuna!

Bill

[Wayne Orwig]

Sort of easy, once you have done it.

Push the HOSE towards the red elbow, to relieve the pressure on the collar. Then, pull the COLLAR away from the red elbow. Then, while pulling the collar away from the elbow, also pull the hose off of the elbow.

If there is any fuel pressure still in the line, it will make it very hard to relieve the pressure on the collar, so follow the instructions related to trying to start the bike with the pump unplugged.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Wat Wayne sez. Pretend it's a quick connect air hose fitting that's a (ahem) little diabotical. After cursing long enough, it just falls apart.

[Waterbottle]

No struggling is required. I also had trouble in the past but the easy way is to pop the tank up and support with a piece of wood or similar, be very careful not to kink the nylon fuel line 
Disconnect the fuel pump wiring , the wide 4 pin connector . Key on, do 2 full start cycles. Let the ECU time out the starter, it goes for about 5 to 8 seconds or so. Then push the connector up towards the elbow, grab the grey outer ring , pull it back toward the hose as you ease the assembly off the elbow.
Unless you run it though at least 2 full cycles with the pump wiring unplugged you will have some pressure in the fuel line, any pressure in there will make it difficult to disconnect the fitting.
To convince yourself, once you do have it off, reconnect and practice removing it a few times...... It's a piece of piss with No Pressure 

[Trogladyte]

Amazingly, for something billed as "quick release" there is a special tool. I don't know if it is a factory product, but my tame mechanic has one.

[twhitaker]

Amazingly, for something billed as "quick release" there is a special tool. I don't know if it is a factory product, but my tame mechanic has one.

As opposed to a feral mechanic?

[Huzo]

I don't know what sort of Norge I have but it clearly is different to y'all. With mine, you just put your index and second finger behind the collar while standing on the left side of the bike with the tank rear sopported by a block of wood, and slide the collar toward your two fingers with your thumbnail, the thing almost "falls" off. Doing it this way, you are isolating any pushing and wrenching on the 90 deg fitting exiting the tank. You can swear and curse if you wish though, but it won't stop it coming straight off, and a lot better than buggerising around disconnecting lines etc.....

[sib]

I don't know what sort of Norge I have but it clearly is different to y'all. With mine, you just put your index and second finger behind the collar while standing on the left side of the bike with the tank rear sopported by a block of wood, and slide the collar toward your two fingers with your thumbnail, the thing almost "falls" off. Doing it this way, you are isolating any pushing and wrenching on the 90 deg fitting exiting the tank. You can swear and curse if you wish though, but it won't stop it coming straight off, and a lot better than buggerising around disconnecting lines etc.....

Same here, on a V7II Stone.  I had to take my tank off twice this week to install some heated grips (that's another story).  Getting the fuel connection off and on was eazy-peazy.  Ditto for my previous '13 Stone.  After the first time I disconnected the line on the V7II, the collar felt a bit sticky, so I squirted a dab of WD-40 on it.  Not sure it needed it, but everything seemed smoother after that.

[pete roper]

They can be very gnarly.

[Cam3512]

Same here, on a V7II Stone.  I had to take my tank off twice this week to install some heated grips (that's another story).  Getting the fuel connection off and on was eazy-peazy.  Ditto for my previous '13 Stone.  After the first time I disconnected the line on the V7II, the collar felt a bit sticky, so I squirted a dab of WD-40 on it.  Not sure it needed it, but everything seemed smoother after that.

If the V7 II is the same as the V7, there's another quick dosconnect down stream of the elbow under the tank.  Left side along the spine of the frame, green color.  Much easier.

[Bill Hagan]

I don't know what sort of Norge I have but it clearly is different to y'all. With mine, you just put your index and second finger behind the collar while standing on the left side of the bike with the tank rear sopported by a block of wood, and slide the collar toward your two fingers with your thumbnail, the thing almost "falls" off. Doing it this way, you are isolating any pushing and wrenching on the 90 deg fitting exiting the tank. You can swear and curse if you wish though, but it won't stop it coming straight off, and a lot better than buggerising around disconnecting lines etc.....

That is so wrong and unfair.

I am buying Huzo and sib voodoo dolls ... and extra pins.   

Bill

[guzzisteve]

If all else fails you can pry the grey collar back w/2 screwdrivers as you push in towards elbow. Some get welded together if not apart for 20K mi. Parts are available. I have replaced a few.

[Adk.IBO]

...or skip the hours of frustration I had and just break it apart to begin with and get the proper parts from 'Beemer Boneyard' never to have that aggravation in the first place or ever again...

[Huzo]

That is so wrong and unfair.

I am buying Huzo and sib voodoo dolls ... and extra pins.   

Bill

Actually some might be easier than others Bill, could be I'm just fortunate.

[sib]

I apologize for deliberate thread drift here, but I'd like to interject a bit of advice for anyone who takes off a V7/V7II fuel tank (and maybe other models, too, I'm only familiar with V7's).  Check the bolts (M8 hex socket screws) that hold on the rubber pucks (GU66103415) that slide into the depressions at the front of the tank.  These bolts can be or become loose and back themselves out to the point where they can puncture the tank.  Others have reported this problem and, sure enough, when I took off my V7II tank, the bolts were partway unscrewed.  I took them off, cleaned everything up, liberally applied Loctite 243 (the blue one) to the threads, screwed them back in, and torqued them to the specified value, 12 Nm.  Instant peace of mind.