Powder Coating Alloy Rims

[Groover]

For those whom have powder coated the cast aluminum rims (used on SP1, G5, LM1, etc) do you also have them powder coat the inside where the tire mounts? Also, do you mask the flat surface where the rotors mount to the wheel to keep them as true as possible?

Just checking best practices. I have a spare set of rims I'm thinking on powder coating and I want to check with those who know what works best.

Thanks!

[Stevex]

Powder coated my LM2 wheels including inside the rims.
Definitely mask up the disc / collar mount contact surfaces, not forgetting to remove bearings and mask up their mating surfaces too.

[Lesman]

I had a set VStrom rims(Steel) powdercoated. I don't remember the inside being done. You will need to remove your bearings. I was told that they not to be reused because they will be "notched" in the removal. I replaced them anyway. I don't think I'm that violent when I remove them.

[Kentktk]

I had a set VStrom rims(Steel) powdercoated. I don't remember the inside being done. You will need to remove your bearings. I was told that they not to be reused because they will be "notched" in the removal. I replaced them anyway. I don't think I'm that violent when I remove them.

It depends on how difficult they are to remove. If you hit the inner race to remove, then replacement becomes almost mandatory.

[Rob in Austin]

Years ago I had the Brembo rims from my Centauro powder coated.
The shop was concerned that the 400 degree process may compromise the wheel.
They were also concerned about the heat transfer during sandblasting.
I ended up having the wheels walnut shell blasted and used 250 degree powder.
They looked excellent in low gloss black and lasted as long as I owned the bike.
Just FYI and something to consider...

[flangeman_70]

I had my SPIII wheels powder coated black 5 and half years ago as a part of winterising it i.e. setting it up to be ridden year round.
Removed bearings and plugged all holes.
They are in excellent condition today and no issues with leaks or balance. Strength wise they are in fine shape even after a shock absorber failure resulting in a few very hard hits.

Adam

[Kentktk]

I had my SPIII wheels powder coated black 5 and half years ago as a part of winterising it i.e. setting it up to be ridden year round.
Removed bearings and plugged all holes.
They are in excellent condition today and no issues with leaks or balance. Strength wise they are in fine shape even after a shock absorber failure resulting in a few very hard hits.

Adam

How do you know they are fine after a few hard hits? Maybe the next hard hit will let you know that they really aren`t fine.

[SED]

I'd mask off the inside and the outer edge of the rim.

I powdercoated the entire surface of the Monza rims and will be stripping it from inside the rim (tire too tight to seat easily) and the outside edge of the rim -bare aluminum originally (I think...) and bare on the LMIII rims.

[Turin]

Mask off where the rotors attach and pull the wheel bearings before hand and mask off that area as well. ( heat can cause any grease in the bearings to leak out, ruining the powder coat). The sand will ruin the bearings anyway.

[Groover]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. Sounds like a few different experiences with this. I'll have to check with my powder coat guy to see if he can do the lower temp. That's the main reason I didn't powder coat the wheels last time (worried about altering the aluminum strength), but I've seen a lot of guys here doing them so figurured it must be ok. I do like the factory polished lip, so I would probably mask that, and this set would need new bearings. I'm was mainly now wondering about the tire fit. Looks like SED had a bad experience with that, anybody else?

Thanks again.

[Turin]

I've had to tire fitment issues whatsoever.

[rodekyll]

Powder is about 0.002" - 0.003" thick.  It's not going to affect tire fitment.  I have 50k+ on one set of powder coated Lesters and about 7k on another with no issues, and there's about 12k on my set of powder coated EV tubeless rims.  No drama with any of them.  I also see many powder coated rims on the road, and listings for shops that do it for a living.  I don't think shops would be around very long if they were making rims dangerous by coating them

$0.02

[Groover]

Thanks Rodekyll, two cents well spent! That's a lot of experience all in one post. Thanks again to everyone.

[Stevex]

Powder is about 0.002" - 0.003" thick.  It's not going to affect tire fitment.  I have 50k+ on one set of powder coated Lesters and about 7k on another with no issues, and there's about 12k on my set of powder coated EV tubeless rims.  No drama with any of them.  I also see many powder coated rims on the road, and listings for shops that do it for a living.  I don't think shops would be around very long if they were making rims dangerous by coating them

$0.02

Exactly...when was the last time you heard of anyone having problems with a powder coated wheel; not me in 40 years of motorcycling.

[Rusnak_322]

don't bother taping off any areas. the blasting will ruin the tape and you want to use a heat resistant tape anyways. just tell the powder coater what you want done. I would not use them if they didn't know to do that anyway.

[SportsterDoc]

Powder is about 0.002" - 0.003" thick.  It's not going to affect tire fitment.  I have 50k+ on one set of powder coated Lesters and about 7k on another with no issues, and there's about 12k on my set of powder coated EV tubeless rims.  No drama with any of them.  I also see many powder coated rims on the road, and listings for shops that do it for a living.  I don't think shops would be around very long if they were making rims dangerous by coating them

+1

...and easier to clean!

Attached photo of 2002 H-D Sportster 1200 Sport, at 3 years old with powder coated wheels




image uploader

[rodekyll]

When I do powder I want the parts pristine, but I want to do the tape myself.  ANY pinhole, tear, missed bit of seal or edge lifting WILL allow powder where it shouldn't otta be.  I don't want any argument about who's fault it was.

Also -- each added color or pattern increases the cost of powdering several X.  The taping is tedious and time consuming, and the special heat-resistant tape is expensive and doesn't do contours well at all.

Your wheel needs to be this clean:





A base coat (blasted aluminum in this example) follows:







Then it's tape, tape, tape, tape, start over, tape, toke, tape, etc. x #wheels






freeimagehost


And then the second coat is laid:







Then you got your cussing over bad taping/powder leaks, and a clear coat (in this case a zero-gloss to keep the blasted look) to shoot.  The end product looks like this:








uploading



It takes time.

[Groover]

^ nice job, those look great! Well done.

[Guzzistajohn]

I had the wheels on my CX100 sand blasted & powder coated in 1999. I had the dude tape off for me. And yes you have to take the bearings out