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Also During the initial engine evaluation, found that the ball in the breather had stuck in the bottom and was releasing, probably adding pressure to the inside. Found it did not have the oring in the bottom.
Not all of the ball-type check valves have an o-ring in the bottom. I prefer the ones that don't in fact - it's all too easy for the o-ring to become dislodged from it's proper position.
I thought about that when the new one came and the oring was bunched up and not seated.Also thought about adding small amount of some sort of adhesive to keep it in place.Have not pulled the ring out to see if it works ok without.
I removed the o-ring from one I just installed in a customer's bike. Works just fine without.
I hate when that happens. Remove the oil pan and use a block of wood and large hammer to drive it out from the inside. For some reason that era of Guzzis seem to have the tightest fitting rear main bearings. Fortunately, the financial pain isn't as bad as it used to be. I remember when a rear main bearing was $300, now they're less than half of that. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_126&products_id=188
My last ditch advice would be to remove the timing gear from the crankshaft and remove the rods. Set the engine nose up and use the crank as a drift to knock the flange out.
It's been years since I've done one, but aren't two of the bolt holes tapped? If so, you should be able to run a bolt in them and jack the bearing carrier out.
"Remove the oil pan and use a block of wood and large hammer to drive it out from the inside."Good advice from Charlie
I agree Steve.Tried that this am. Splintered the wood beating on it with a 2# lead drilling hammer.Have to go to oak, it was pine.I think I am going to try one more time with 3 jaw, heat the case, hose the flange with freeze type gum remove and a pc of oak to beat it from the inside.
Yes there are and they will pull nice even pressure on the bearing if you go nice and easy.I think that drilling and taping another hole (s) would work. If it were me I would try it rather than beating the thing with a hammer. (ugh). I know its a tractor engine ...but.BTDT.
I had one that was so stuck, that I actually drilled a hole and cut a slot outwards *almost* to the engine case. That let it collapse enough to come out finally. WTH the factory stuck it in there with, I'll never know.
The 1200 breva book says to heat the engine case with some special heater thing to properly install the camshaft. Not necessary. I think the passage belonged in the flange install segment. Here it seems necessary. So maybe liberal application of a high-powered heat gun might help. Really liberal.
The loading on the flange is better ???with screwing the bolts in and having them push the flange than with a puller. At least the pressure can be applied very evenly.(and slowly and in you situation 3 bolts might be a good idea.)Maybe not any more force than a puller, but in the right direction and you can load very slowly and gently tap the end of the crank as you increase the load.A bit of heat with a good air heat gun would probably help.Not that I'm more knowledge than anyone else but have used this method with success. Good shop vac as you drill and tap??
All good ideas. ThanksWrap the guts inside the case with oily rags to catch drilling bits. Vacuum is great idea. hadn't been there yet. We were thinking just drilling and using nuts and bolt so don't have to pick out more tap bits. I think I can get nuts on the 3 bolts from the inside. The outside flange struts?fins line up to the inside enough to get the bolts all the way thru.The only issues might be getting all the nuts on same # of turns to keep pull even. All very frustrating just trying to do preventive maint!!!
Did you sweet talk it, or were you just cussing thru the whole deal? You do realize it makes a difference?
Only the two bottom bolts go all the way thru to the inside of the case so most(all) of the tailings can be on the outside of the case.(just don't pick those two!)
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