8mm torque to destruction?

[rodekyll]

Auto zone level stores have stud extractors for about $15 that work with a rattle gun.  I have yet to be defeated by any threaded shaft that I could get it to bite on.  It pulls head and bell housing studs as well as broken exhaust studs and seized bolts. 

[Sasquatch Jim]

 After letting it soak with your favorite magic potion, apply turning pressure with a box end wrench while rapped light tapping on the head with a very light hammer, possibly a small brass hammer o prevent peening.

[organfixsing]

Just a thought. Somenone said to apply heat to the aluminium block as the coefficient of expansion is greater than steel. My eperience has been that a bolt hole which is surrounded by metal which is larger than the diameter of the bolt hole will actually try to shrink the bolt hole. This will be advantageous in helping to break the connection between the bolt and the threaded hole but will actually tighten the hold of the threaded hole on the bolt in most cases. A more effective solution is to apply freeeze to the bolt. If, however, Loctite is involved, heat is the only answer.

Cheers
Brian 

[guzziownr]

Just a thought. Somenone said to apply heat to the aluminium block...
Cheers
Brian 

My coefficient of patience is shrinking and AF1 has replacement bolts for $2.50 each so I plan to apply some more force and see what breaks first.

 The Sasquatch speaks: "After letting it soak with your favorite magic potion, apply turning pressure with a box end wrench while rapped light tapping on the head with a very light hammer, possibly a small brass hammer to prevent peening."

This technique has served me well  in the past.  We will see what the new day brings.

[Mike Tashjian]

My vote also goes for heating the bolt head to soften any locktite on the threads first, and then use an impact tool of some sort before it re-hardens. I like a turbo propane torch head for small stuff. Stainless steel bolts into aluminum are notorious for corroding aluminum so, don't be surprised if they break off.  Either way, time to move forward.   Mike

[guzziownr]

After a 48 hr soak in PB Blaster the reluctant bolts came lose with little drama


how do you upload pictures
. Pictured is a 2013 Griso front cover next to a 2007 Norge cover.  Minor differences between them.

[rodekyll]

Hmmm.  Those 4 bolts had a definite 'set' in my Breva 1200 engine, but no drama at all breaking them loose.

So is it one of the side bolt holes in the engine case that is stripped, or is it a hole in the cover itself?  I have a cover that I removed from a factory crate engine, never installed (Breva 1200), that looks identical to the one you're removing.  If you don't want to timesert yours, PM me.

[twowings]

www.kanolabs.com

[guzziownr]

Hmmm.  Those 4 bolts had a definite 'set' in my Breva 1200 engine, but no drama at all breaking them loose.

So is it one of the side bolt holes in the engine case that is stripped, or is it a hole in the cover itself?  I have a cover that I removed from a factory crate engine, never installed (Breva 1200), that looks identical to the one you're removing.  If you don't want to timesert yours, PM me.

Thanks for the offer!

Having stripped the frame mount on the side of the cover with excessive enthusiasm (manual says 60, it stripped at 55) I was very cautious with the 8 mm bolts.  After two days of soaking it only took a bit over 20 LBS/FT to free them.  The Norge cover was purchased as a practice piece for my neophyte timeserting.  It now wears two.  I did the one on the Griso cover this afternoon and it is back on the motor.

Now I just have to put the pieces of the puzzle back together.