Euro Moto Electric

[JoeW]

Thanks. I'll do  that. Right now I believe the rotor is slipping on the tapered crank. I'll remove it and check for rub marks and clean the taper surfaces. Then reinstall and check clearances.

I had installed one of these on a Cal III several years ago and the taper on the EME rotor was wrong. They sent me a replacement next day air no charge.

[sidecarnutz]

Rotor seemed to fit OK. It ran true as I cranked it with the stator off to inspect run out. I refitted the stator and it seemed to square up just fine this time. No more contact points. It had a few very small rub marks and I cleaned them off with 400 grit emery and blew them off before reinstalling.

Bike cranked immediately and started before I even turned the fuel tap on! With no more rubbing, it cranked fast!  I let it warm up and turned the fuel tap on. Got 14.1 volts to the battery at idle speed. Wow. Never did  that well before. Then I revved it to 3k rpms for a check. 16.7 volts. Uh oh. Shut it off. I need to find a better place to plug in the black wire on the regulator that senses voltage. (This is covered well in the manual.) I plugged it into a connector that the old regulator used. Apparently not a good spot. Reads 9.5 volts when the ignition is on. Need to tap into a stronger circuit. The fuse box is right near there so I'll get busy with my FLUKE and find a better spot to wire it in.

With just that to take care of, I am getting very pleased with this project. A strong battery makes for a happy machine! Back to work!

[sidecarnutz]

OK, I'll call it ready to ride now. One issue is that NONE of the bikes circuits read 12.5 volts at rest once switched on. I found one that was close to that in the harness tied off to the rear frame. I tapped into that for the sensing circuit of the reg. Now with the bike running I read 12.7 volts at the battery at idle and 14.8 volts at 3k rpm. I can live with that. I will check it frequently as well as battery water level. I have had many Japanese bikes over the years approach 15 volts charging and the main effect seems to be lowering the water level in the battery over time. I use the big old fashioned tractor batteries in this bike. So I feel this OK for now and maybe as good as it gets. Looking forwards to a test ride tomorrow!

[sidecarnutz]

For you detail mavens. Battery read 13.1 volts at rest. Its a year old. So I believe it to be a healthy battery.

[Two Checks]

As for that crazy fuel shutoff system, remove the guts and bin it. Fashion a block off plate and then put a length of fuel line on long enough tobreach outside the frame rails. Install a Briggs & Stratton inline shutoff valve and then a length of line to the right carb. Easy to remove/install tank.

[sidecarnutz]

As for that crazy fuel shutoff system, remove the guts and bin it. Fashion a block off plate and then put a length of fuel line on long enough tobreach outside the frame rails. Install a Briggs & Stratton inline shutoff valve and then a length of line to the right carb. Easy to remove/install tank.

I planned a different solution. What bothers me is the lack of a reserve setting. Even with a new sensor, I can't get the low fuel light to work! So I plan to install a regular petcock sometime and make a new clamp and cable to make a lever on the side panel to work it. I could live with it if it has a reserve setting.

[Tom]

John also sells parts to rebuild a Valeo starter too.   

[sidecarnutz]

This bike actually has the older style Bosch starter on it. The late 80's and early 90's were a transition period for their bikes. They could be real mix masters in how the factory equipped them!

[Tom]

He has stuff for Bosch starters too.

[RayB]

I bought a replacement rotor from EME for my BMW R100 to have as a spare. Its not the permanent magnet type, just an old Bosch system.

The rotor was hitting the stator. I suspected poor taper machining and called EME out on it. There was way too much radial run-out.

EME offered me no replacements or money back.

[sidecarnutz]

I removed the stator the other day and ran the bike on the starter to check for run out on the rotor. It looked good. After remounting the stator, there was no more rubbing. Must have worked its way thru a snug spot on the second try and seated well. Had to drive to the next city over for a state inspection this morning. The closer station had no mechanic today. Waited in line a couple hours to get it done. The old girl passed with no issues. On the way home I noticed my boot slipping off the front of the shifter on down shifts! Nuts. Stopped at a hardware store and looked. I thought perhaps I messed up the new crank seal for the alternator. Nope. That was fine. I just had a spontaneous drip from the left valve cover. Perfectly aimed at the shifter knob and my toe! Murphy's Law having fun with me. Pretty rare IME to have those leak and actually drip on you! Easy to fix this afternoon though. Bike ran great and the new alternator did a fine job!

Love these old Cali's! Really fine all purpose bike.

[charlie b]

Sensor location.  When I first put mine on I used a relay directly (through a fuse) to the battery.

Later on I found a spot on the fuse block where the voltage drop was just at 0.1V  That worked too.

[rodekyll]

Permanent magnet rotors are just what their name says.  That means they pick up swarf and monopoly pieces as well as washers and whatever else they're near.  I've opened up 'rubbing' alternators to find stuff had stuck to the rotor during someone else's installation and gouged up the rotor and stator.  So be careful to wipe down the rotor before installing the stator.

[sidecarnutz]

Sensor location.  When I first put mine on I used a relay directly (through a fuse) to the battery.

Later on I found a spot on the fuse block where the voltage drop was just at 0.1V  That worked too.

This is a great idea. I will set up a relay powered circuit to power the volt meter and the sensor for the alternator. Then they'll both finally have good readings. Put 60 miles on the bike today. Alternator did a fine job.