Stupid Lario brake light switch

[Chuck in Indiana]

P/N 28741100
I put a new one on the Lario a couple of years ago and it's already failed. I wouldn't mind so much, but Harpers gets $55.87 plus shipping for a switch that is going to fail again. This is two switches in 4 years.
Has anyone figured out a work around with a reliable switch?
TIA
Edit to add picture..
2017-06-19_02-29-28 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

[Markcarovilli]

Hand signals....

Mark

[Triple Jim]

Chuck, I'm not familiar with how that mounts and how much room is around it, but a search for things like "plunger switch" and similar combinations of words turn up similar switches.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I buy industrial instruments for a crust.
I look at the size of those and the oil pressure switch and knowing what's inside them "that's not going to work for long"
Perhaps a trip to your local auto wrecker to find a decent switch or convert to a mechanical type.

[Triple Jim]

I thought the one in the photo is a mechanical type.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I thought the one in the photo is a mechanical type.

Yeah, it's mechanical. I'm thinking of maybe coming up with a pressure switch.. but first.. I'll put this one in the lathe and cut the crimp off of it and see why it fails. *Maybe* repair it. If that doesn't work, I'll look in some machinery catalogs.
Just thought maybe someone had already been down this path and had an easy fix.

[not-fishing]

What about converting to a banjo type? 

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_146&products_id=586

I wonder if you could use a "plug type" like on my V50 III?  $21.17 

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_146&products_id=957

Or

Brake light switch, banjo bolt M10 x 1.00  $19.76

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_146&products_id=1583

Or double banjo bolt.

One of the interesting things I found out about my Griso 1100 oil pressure sensor is that it's also used on BMW's (at a much lower cost).  It did take me two switches to get the right one because there's a course thread sensor sold by a will not be named Dealer as the correct sensor -(wrong)- and a fine thread sensor.

Guzzi uses "off the shelf" gear, the only problem is which BMW/FIAT/MATRA/OTHER EUROPEAN CAR MFG also uses them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-29741150-Frt-Stop-Switch-MG1452-/390907350109   From an overseas source  US $12.99

[Chuck in Indiana]

Thanks for that.. I'd already looked at what Cheese and Gordon had available. I'll look for a mechanical solution first before going completely non stock. I'd hate to throw away that custom $20 brake line that Earl's of Indy made for me.. (snapping suspenders) 

[bad Chad]

I don't know what kind of brake light switch the  v65 has, but I know it's been working non stop since 1984!   I have heard that the multi valve small blocks are known for gernading their brake light switches! ha ha

[Curtis Harper]

You know, I don't ever shy away from defending our prices for original parts. Your post reads like you bought that one from me, but the one you bought from me back in September of 2016, you also returned 5 days later. I don't remember why you returned it, I am guessing because it was too much money. But maybe if you had used the OEM part it may have lasted 30 some years like the first one did.

[Chuck in Indiana]

You know, I don't ever shy away from defending our prices for original parts. Your post reads like you bought that one from me, but the one you bought from me back in September of 2016, you also returned 5 days later. I don't remember why you returned it, I am guessing because it was too much money. But maybe if you had used the OEM part it may have lasted 30 some years like the first one did.

Curtis.. I don't mean to offend you at all. The reason I sent that one back was it was back ordered at the time, so I went elsewhere. I didn't *tell* you to order it, it just appeared in my mailbox with a bill. Probably a snafu of some sort. At any rate, the one I have is an OEM switch as far as I know.
I'm also *not* complaining about your pricing. I didn't mean it to sound like that at all. I know full well how expensive it is to stock all this stuff.
Again.. the reason I sent it back is I didn't order it, and already had one when it showed up. <shrug>

[kevdog3019]

Never had one go tits up.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I thought the one in the photo is a mechanical type.

You're right, I should have looked closer.
On my old Eldorado I have been using reed switches, 2 Amp ones are very common and ideal for LED type lamps, All you have to do is figure out how to move a magnet in the proximity and you have a sealed switch good for billions of operations.

Here's my indicator & Hi/Lo switch Mk2 built into the base of the old pillbox, Mk3 will have a few improvements.

Sketch of Mk1

[LeRoy]

Sidestepping a discussion of Harper's price and availability, I'll refer instead to this thread:

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=84415.0

Same switch, same problem. Charlie's pointer to MZ and Aermacchi is probably the most useful and helpful although it doesn't lead directly to an alternative source.

However, Googling "Magura master cylinder brake light switch" comes up with many hits. These look similar. albeit with a plastic body. But if it says "Magura" on the switch, as many of these seem to, that's good enough for me. Something between $12.31 and $20 sounds good, if the switches below are compatible. I just added one to my Amazon shopping cart to keep a spare on hand. That should assure that the one on my bike (fromHarper's0 lasts the three decades I've come to expect.

https://www.amazon.com/Magura-225-2-Hydraulic-Brake-Assembly/dp/B000WO1Y90
http://www.100moto.com.au/magura-master-cylinder-front-brake-light-switch-fits-model-73-163-225-0128496/

Last, and perhaps least, if anyone would like a dead version of the original switch for an autopsy, I probably have one or two. A PM will get them on the way to you.

[pete roper]

Chuck? How is the brake line going to be an issue if you go to the banjo type, (Which I've found to be far more reliable than any of the microswitches.)? If the line has a banjo on the end then surely the hydraulic switch will work. Or have you got a hose with a straight fitting on the end?

Pete

[Rough Edge racing]

 I converted the troublesome brake light mechanical switches on my 96 Ducati to stud style pressure switches to fit the stock brake line banjo...Also a good time to change brake fluid  ....And one pressure switch failed quickly so I got the chance the brake fluid twice...

[Chuck in Indiana]

Chuck? How is the brake line going to be an issue if you go to the banjo type, (Which I've found to be far more reliable than any of the microswitches.)? If the line has a banjo on the end then surely the hydraulic switch will work. Or have you got a hose with a straight fitting on the end?

Pete

Well, duh! For some reason, I "remembered" it screwing directly into the master cylinder. It's a banjo..
Thanks for jogging my memory. <old person shuffling off>

[Old Jock]

I've got a pressure switch on the 1000 and one is also on the 1100, that's yet to run

So far on the 1000 its been reliable and not given me any trouble, I changed as I felt the mechanical type setup was fragile and designed by "Michael Mouse Engineering".

The only downside that I've noticed is that unlike the mechanical type which triggered just before the brakes started to operate, the pressure switch operates the brake light a split second later as (obviously) pressure has to be present for the switch to work.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Oh, and thanks, LeRoy. For $12 and change delivered, that switch looks to be plug and play. I'll drop one in my cart and experiment with it. 
Edit: before punching the buy it now button, I looked at the thread and it appears the OEM is M6, not M10. Whew! Almost wasted $12.. :) :)
2017-06-20_07-48-17 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

[Chuck in Indiana]

Ok, here's the issue.
2017-06-20_08-53-48 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
The bottom tab doesn't quite touch the plunger. All I have to do is bend it down a few thousandths until it does. Reliably. Then, figure out how to recrimp the switch back together. Maybe some sand blast and metal set epoxy..
King.. this case is closed. Mystery solved.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Oh, and thanks, LeRoy. For $12 and change delivered, that switch looks to be plug and play. I'll drop one in my cart and experiment with it. 
Edit: before punching the buy it now button, I looked at the thread and it appears the OEM is M6, not M10. Whew! Almost wasted $12.. :) :)

The description for the Magura switch LeRoy linked to is not for the switch, but the entire master cylinder.

13mm-dia. piston
Alloy body master cylinder
Nylon fluid reservoir
Threaded for brake light switch
Outlet thread M10 x 1.0

The "outlet thread" is where the banjo bolt goes, not the switch thread diameter. I'm betting the threaded hole for the switch is M6-1.00 which seems to be some sort of an industry standard.

[Triple Jim]

.And one pressure switch failed quickly so I got the chance the brake fluid twice...

I've had at least one pressure switch fail as well.  For what it's worth, the pressure type add a small amount of sponginess to the system too, since it takes a small amount of fluid flow into the switch to actuate it.  Sometimes it's noticeable and sometimes not.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I have the old one repaired (soldered back together) and working. Maybe it'll last 30 years  but if it doesn't I'll try one of the other solutions posted.
Gotta love WG! Thanks all..

[normzone]

I'll put this one in the lathe and cut the crimp off of it and see why it fails.

It's so sexy when you talk like that ....