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As long as the tab has engaged enough to allow the cap a damper rod to drop right down into the bottom of the slider you should be find as long as you can tighten the bolt sufficiently without the rod and cap spinning.The problems occur if full engagement hasn't occurred as when the forks start moving the cap will deform further allowing it and the damper rod to drop lower in the slider and therefore removing the preload torque from the bolt. It will loosen, oil will leak out and, if ignored for long enough,the bolt may drop out meaning that the fork leg will be undamaged and the slider unsecured. Chaos ensues.Pete
Even though my `81 CX100 has over 100K miles on it, I have yet found it necessary to replace the fork cartridges or springs, even though with me owning it I have ridden it 2up & loaded more than otherwise. When I got this CX it had 6k miles on it 30+ years ago. I have had to replace fork seals as where I used to live small insects (rice fields) got into them. But at that point 25? years ago I installed rubber gaitors to stop that happening.
Did you get the snap ring to seat into position?This picture is of my 77 Lemans but it looks to be the same set up on T3's etc. that I have rebuilt and probably the same as your CX100.
Did you get the snap ring to seat into position?This picture is of my 77 Lemans but it looks to be the same set up on T3's etc. that I have rebuilt and probably the same as your CX100. This hommade made spring compressor makes getting the snap ring and cap into place easy.
Hey Jim, My set up differs just slightly from yours,,, as you can see in the diagram, the end of the damper rod is secured and centered in the spring by the lower cap item 22,,, then held in place by the circlip item 26,,, lower cap 27 slides over these pieces and 2 internal tabs in item 27 are located in place by the slot cut across the end of the damper rod. This whole assembly is placed into a recessed hole cast into the bottom of the fork slider,,, I found this easiest to accomplish holding it upside down and letting gravity do the work,,, much easier to feel it drop properly into place. At first I really struggled getting the springs compressed and into position,,, but there was a very convenient hole(oil or damping port?) drilled through the damping rod near the top of the spring,,, I simply placed a thin screw driver into this hole,,, using that as leverage it was a simple matter to just wind the sping into position, giving me enough slack to fasten lower cap 22 with the circlip,,, then unwound the spring, back into proper position,,, worked like a charm. Tks Kelly
Hey Wayne, I had picked up the Ikon shocks, FAC Dampers,Wirth springs quite a while ago,,, and debated putting them in the CX100 or into the G5 when I get around to working on it. My CX100 (30K+ miles) stock front suspension, didn't feel as vague/rubbery as the stock rear shocks,,,but the stock front end would dive quite a bit rolling off the throttle and definitely drop a LOT under hard braking,,, hopefully I'll notice an improvement in the front end tracking/response. The stock dampers on my CX100 still had pressure and decent movement, but there was one spot where the cartridge body was worn and rusted quite bad, and a bunch of the rubber gasket sealing/packing material had broken down and worked it's way loose, out and away from around the damper rods themselves,,, so imminent failure was on it's way. I've got new fork seals in there and rubber gaitors,,, I agree with you, the fork gaitors are almost a necessity in my riding area with the heavy black flies/mosquitos. The CX100 is definitely a lifer bike for me,,, parked in the garage collecting dust, wasn't fair to her, and it was heartbreaking for me not to be riding her,,, I'm hoping that with the higher bars, I'll be able to enjoy riding her again,,, the new suspension, should add a little bit more composure/confidence putting her through her paces, riding the twisties in the back hills of the Ottawa Valley. Tks Kelly
Related to this topic - How do you ensure that the fork tubes etc are properly aligned?Is the a sequence to follow or measurements?
Just a thought on running the fork tub up a tight tree: Tap a wedge (screwdriver, flat punch, etc) SLIGHTLY SNUG in to the pinching slot to gain a mil of clearance. Don't get crazy with the wedging. You want to deflect, but not deform. It takes very little.
The best thing I did to my CX100 for getting it to handle better in corners was to put a Tarozzi fork brace on it and a 16" front rim w/a 110/90 front tire to duplicate what I had put on my `87 LM IV. As stock the 18" 100/90 front tire w/clip ons or even w/o steers too slow for changing directions compared to what I did.
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