Possibly Experiencing Startus Interruptus (SI) - 2007 Norge (2V)

[Mike Craven]

Steffi, no click.  So no voltage change at the coil on the start relay (pins 1 and 3 on schematic)?  They get signal from ECU blue connecter terminals 1 and 17 afaik.  But it could be a problem with another signal that the ECU uses as permission to start.

Asides:
Btw, I found schematic to be accurate (Title: 2007 Norge ABS, date: 27 September 2008, by Carl Allison.  It's in the dir path, but not the same as Kiwi Roy linked.)  Ooops, already pointed out by guzziks.   I don't have my marked-up paper copies since I sold my 2007 Norge (about 50k miles).  I did MPH 'startup' fix at one point.   But I now recall having this type issue and don't know what was the real resolution.  I actually took the ECU out to check pins and connectors, but found everything clean, tight...cleaned, refreshed ground point. it's a helluva job fitting it out and back in.  My Norge was reliable for many trips and the new owner put 50k miles and never asked about this issue.  I had completely forgotten about it.

I've found fuse values marginal on other vehicles (engineering-wise good for reliability, but low on security).  Here I'd be wary about changing the value and that the 15 A fuse D is protecting an ECU element.
 

[SemperVee]

    Just cut to the chase as i did and install momentary start button from battery to Solenoid.  Works great as back up. 

[Steffi Strackbein]

So, as mentioned before. Cleaned and checked all electrical connections, check for continuity and voltage draw. Could not get a click in the relay. I then proceeded with trying to jump the starter directly to see if she even turns over. This is what happened, big clunk in the starter and all controls went dead and stayed dead.
I figured this is it I blew the thing up. Figured I'd have to whole it to a service center 200 miles away, started to put everything back together to it's original configuration. Removed the SI fix moved all relays back in their places, started torquing bolts for side plate, as I was doing that the bike rebooted on its own, this is at least 30 minutes after everything went dark, the ignition key was in the off position. Turned the key and hit the starter key and low and behold the relay was clicking. I went ahead finished connecting the starter and tried starting it and she started right up, this is with all the original wiring. I am stumped, but not complaining.
Still can't figure out why short starting the starter shuts everything off or why she didn't start to begin with?? She is running, just hope I don't get stranded somewhere. Thank you everyone for the suggestion.

[SemperVee]

  *Love a story with, even as it is WOO-WOO happy ending..

[Kiwi_Roy]

I discovered early in my Guzzi life that there are two coils in the solenoid not just one as shown on the wiring diagrams.
A heavy coil that pulls the gear into mesh I named this the grunt coil drawing 40+ Amps (it requires low resistance wiring to generate the strong magnetic field required)
and a lighter coil that just holds the gear in place while cranking. (the air gap is now closed so only a weak field is required)
The problem is the Guzzi wiring is not up to the task of providing ~45 Amps required to power the grunt coil and pull the solenoid into mesh.
There is too much Voltage drop (resistance) between the battery and the spade connector of the solenoid.
Voltage is lost in the yellow wire feeding the start relay (sometime due to a dirty contact in the ignition switch) and also in the wimpy wire between the relay and the solenoid.
Japanese motorcycles don't have a heavy current coil as their starters have a sprague clutch to engage the starter.
The usual fix for Startus interrupts is to provide a 20 Amp fused wire to the start relay direct from the battery its also advisable to upsize the wire between relay and solenoid.
Some owners have added a new relay at the starter with contacts wired between the large hot terminal and the spade connector.
The coil of this new relay is fed by the original solenoid trigger wire, because the coil only requires about 100 Milliamps a little bit of resistance is no problem.

If you are new to Startus interrupts and stuck on the highway take a short length of wire and touch between the large hot terminal and spade connector, the starter should crank.