New Moto Guzzi Door Mats Available Now
you want to be sure a NEW bike is set up properly ESPECIALLY THE V7.. so Moto International would be a good start, they have the best of reputations.. And Dave Richardson of MI wrote the Bible "Guzziology" ! it's not a service manual per say but if you like books, it's like a bible.Please get good protective gear, Helmet, boots GLOVES armored suit and always wear ! even if it's hot.I'm not into small blocks but it's just your size.. Have FUN!
Finally, make sure you bond with it before you buy. I love my current bikes, and except for one Guzzi, I loved all my Guzzis. The V7 III is a great ride!
While you might be tempted to order from MI, you might also consider establishing a relationship with the local folks. Do they "know" Guzzis? How's their shop experience? Will they "show ya the love"?
. What constitutes "proper set-up"? If I go through with this purchase, I need to know what to ask/request.
Maintenance is a snap, what little there is. You could go to just about any shop and have them adjust the valves or change the fluids. You do not need special tools or electronics. I'm probably going to upgrade to the V7 II just to get ABS. Other than lacking ABS I cannot see any other bike on the market that would be as simple to own, light enough to move without worry, and generally fun than my V7. If you would like to contact one of my lady friends I think I can arrange that.Peter Y.
You know you'll drop it, don't you? Almost every one does, when they are starting to ride. Just MHO.
To all that have responded, and have yet to respond. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!Lorazapam (love the name). Thank you, that's good to hear. I've taken complaints on it's power output with a grain of salt, as I'm only marginally interested in hitting a ton (just to say I have), after many, many hours in the saddle. Decotriumph, I will contact the kind gentleman who's kept me company whilst I sat, and petted, and ask if they'll consider competitive pricing. The bike I'm looking at only has 5 miles on it, and would be delivered to my door for $10,700, I doubt they'll be to receptive, but it's worth the ask.Fotoguzzi, would a set-up be extra, or gratis?Tasdisr, I've looked into that very same saddle. It isn't as pretty, but I think it might be prudent. Utrider, nice area to tool around. Scott, the sales guy at the Chandler Ride Now, seems like he's not the type to take advantage (yet), but I know nothing about the service department, other than they charge $125 an hour. Most of the reviews only give it 2.5 to 3 stars out of 5. Not so hot.Elvisboy77, congrats! I read your post (been trolling WG for a while), and I'm glad you're happy. I hope to be just as happy soon.Alanp, thank you for your info, it's just what I was looking for. I've watched vid's on Guzzi valve adjustments, and they seem easier than our bug. I like it! I'm glad to hear that heat delivered to the rider isn't much of a problem. I've read about the map issue, and I'm cool with computers (20 yr Circuit City ex-service associate).Mojohand, will do an ATGATT sitting soon. Adjustable leavers are on my to do list also. Good advice.
The seat does not look that bad.
There is a Suzuki Tu 250X on Craig's List, for $2000 with 3000 miles on it, I've been trying to sell my hubby on (for the exact reasons you've mentioned, but he's not very interested).
The downside of the TUX is with 15HP it'll hum along at 70MPH all day, but doesn't have much passing power at those speeds.
Welcome to one of the best sources for motorcycle knowledge, particularly about our particularly odd breed.A couple of basics...The basic service cycle for almost any Moto Guzzi is roughly every 6000 miles or 10,000 km. At that point, you change the fluids in the engine, gearbox, and final drive, and change the filter in the sump. You also, especially during the early period (first 18,000 miles) need to adjust the valve clearances. The fluid changes are absolutely simple for anyone; the valve adjustment is the simplest in the industry but may be a challenge for someone who has never done anything mechanical. It's not hard to learn how, and it doesn't take much in terms of tools. There are some good 'how-to' threads on this forum and on some other sites for how to do the valve adjustments. BTW the oil filter in the sump isn't the 'spin-on' cartridge like you see on cars and many modern motorcycles; it's a cartridge that sits inside the sump of the engine, and is accessed using a circular port on the bottom of the sump while the oil is being changed.The next thing that must be done from time to time, and that's a bit more complex, is to balance the throttle bodies and reset the throttle position sensor (TPS). Again, there are some threads here and elsewhere that describe how to do this. To balance the throttle bodies requires a manometer - a device that measures the vacuum in the airflow into each cylinder. You can buy one of these, make one, or borrow one - it's used widely in the industry and any decent shop will have one or more. They may use gauges, and electronic display, or might look like a barometer married an octopus. The idea is to make sure the flow of fuel and air to each cylinder is the same. The reason for resetting the TPS is to provide a clean, consistent baseline for the computer than runs the fuel injection system.The air filter also has to be serviced from time to time. In general, it's best to just replace it rather than attempt to clean it unless it's a fabric type designed to be cleaned (such as a K&N). There are a lot of discussions over whether cleanable filters are wonderful or awful and I won't go into that here, but if it's paper replace it and if it's fabric, take it out and clean it and re-oil it before reinstalling it.Specs for oils, valve clearances, etc. are all discussed in the threads here and elsewhere; for a small block 2012, the engine oil is a 10w60 synthetic. This is not always easy to find in smaller towns, but can be ordered and shipped. One alternative available through NAPA outlets is the LiquiMoly 10w60; there's a NAPA store in San Angelo from what I can see. Buy the 5 liter jug using the 'reserve online' feature of NAPA's website and save some money. The gearbox oil (middle) is a 80w90 (I suggest 75w90 synthetic gear oil, such as Valvoline or Mobil1). The final drive specifies a 85w140 synthetic gear oil (also the brands suggested). Other brands may be available at dealers or other sources, but the Valvoline products are good and are easily bought at most auto parts stores. Of course, other products and brands such as Amsoil, etc. are also good choices.Edited to add:Owner's manual, service manual, and parts manuals for your bike are available in PDF on the web, though I don't have the links at hand. The parts manuals are also available online at a number of sites at any time, such as AF1 Racing and Harper's Moto Guzzi, for easy reference. Other sources also provide such assistance; these are mentioned because they are in your region.
Thanks to ITSec for posting this earlier today. I reposted it here, because this was exactly what I was looking for when I started this thread. May it come in handy for other newbs like me.
I can vouch for Worse for Wear: owners are friends of mine. Great gear. Get the armor, too.https://shop.worsewear.com/
Ok, if you have to buy a new one, the V7 is as good as it gets for a beginner. They aren't very powerful, but they have a lot of torque to keep you out of trouble at slow speeds.You know you'll drop it, don't you? Almost every one does, when they are starting to ride. Nothing serious, maybe a too hard of a pull on the front brake lever while turning coming to a stop. Bike falls over, operator isn't hurt.. except pride.. and new bike gets scratched up.That's why I always recommend a used $500-1000 Japanese motorcycle to ride while practicing. Even a dirt bike. Sell it for what you have in it, and then buy that V7 after you get some experience. Just MHO.
Bunch of enablers here.. but what did you expect?