Cali 1400 final drive - 80W90 vs 85W90

[Smithy]

Hi All,

Looking at doing a final drive oil change on my Cali 1400 and 85W90 is proving a little hard to get from my local suppliers.

I am assuming 80W90 will be fine?

Cheers

[Lannis]

Hi All,

Looking at doing a final drive oil change on my Cali 1400 and 85W90 is proving a little hard to get from my local suppliers.

I am assuming 80W90 will be fine?

Cheers

Probably.   But why not just order a liter or two of the correct spec oil for your $15,000 machine from any of the hundred places that will deliver it to your door, instead of "assuming it will be OK"?    A liter will last years, and you'll be your own "local supplier" .... ?

Lannis

[Idontwantapickle]

 

[Arizona Wayne]

80W-90 will maybe be better as it causes less drag when temps are low.  My 750 Breva recommended 80W-90 oil in it's tranny.  But when ambient was 40F, until the tranny warmed up it wouldn't even shift  from first to second properly.    So I put  in 75W-90 and all was good then. 

[Smithy]

Probably.   But why not just order a liter or two of the correct spec oil for your $15,000 machine from any of the hundred places that will deliver it to your door, instead of "assuming it will be OK"?    A liter will last years, and you'll be your own "local supplier" .... ?

Lannis

So far no one in Australia has it..shipping from AF1 is $75.. and I need it tomorrow.

[pete roper]

Mate, the change interval for the specified oil is something silly like 20,000km or more. Are you seriously saying that if you are batty enough to chase down the *Exact* oil for the change it is urgent? You've had 20,000 odd kms to prepare for this! And now it's a crisis!

Look. The reason why that particular oil is specified is because it has a cocktail of 'Aledgedly' brilliant additives that extend its service life.

To change the bevelbox oil on a Cali 14 is a prick of a job because you have to remove the wheel and box and then take off the plastic bling and slaughter a chicken and on and on it goes!

Here's an idea! Perhaps, instead of obsessing about the specification of the oil you choose a good, full synthetic 75/90 or 80/90 gear oil as available at any 'Wottalottacrap Auto'  type place and get it changed EVERY TIME YOU GET A REAR TYRE FITTED! Unless you ride like the biggest panty-waist in the known universe your tyre will wear out way before the oil!

Problem solved!

There is no charge for this advice!

[omega1]

Smithy - note that the Transmission in Guzzi parlance is the final drive at the rear wheel. It uses 80w90 GL4 oil per the manual.

The gearbox is the unit containing six forward gears. It uses 85w90 GL5 per the manual.

American English confuses the two,

[Lannis]

So far no one in Australia has it..shipping from AF1 is $75.. and I need it tomorrow.

Damn.   Same thing happens when I suggest this to Canadian guys.   "We just can't get that in Canada".   So Australia too, then.

Lannis

[Huzo]

Hi All,

Looking at doing a final drive oil change on my Cali 1400 and 85W90 is proving a little hard to get from my local suppliers.

I am assuming 80W90 will be fine?

Cheers

Sounds like a reasonable enough question Smithy.
Sometimes even though you already have an idea what the answer will be, you feel emboldened after seeking confirmation from the luminaries.
Good on you for asking before you root something up !
BTW, where abouts in Oz ?

[Smithy]

Mate, the change interval for the specified oil is something silly like 20,000km or more. Are you seriously saying that if you are batty enough to chase down the *Exact* oil for the change it is urgent? You've had 20,000 odd kms to prepare for this! And now it's a crisis!

Look. The reason why that particular oil is specified is because it has a cocktail of 'Aledgedly' brilliant additives that extend its service life.

To change the bevelbox oil on a Cali 14 is a prick of a job because you have to remove the wheel and box and then take off the plastic bling and slaughter a chicken and on and on it goes!

Here's an idea! Perhaps, instead of obsessing about the specification of the oil you choose a good, full synthetic 75/90 or 80/90 gear oil as available at any 'Wottalottacrap Auto'  type place and get it changed EVERY TIME YOU GET A REAR TYRE FITTED! Unless you ride like the biggest panty-waist in the known universe your tyre will wear out way before the oil!

Problem solved!

There is no charge for this advice!

Cheers.
Urgency beacuse I removed the wheel and got the tyre changed yesterday. Plan was to pick up some oil from the bike shop at the same time. Should be simple and back on the road this weekend.
Well, thanks to online shopping which I dont like to support the shops now stock two thirds of jack shit.
Like Huzo said, I am pretty sure the 80w90 or 75w90 or even olive oil will keep it roatating, but as it is a pain in the arse to change it cant hurt to ask..

[Smithy]

Sounds like a reasonable enough question Smithy.
Sometimes even though you already have an idea what the answer will be, you feel emboldened after seeking confirmation from the luminaries.
Good on you for asking before you root something up !
BTW, where abouts in Oz ?

In counrty Victoria near Kyneton.

[pete roper]

Cheers.
Urgency beacuse I removed the wheel and got the tyre changed yesterday. Plan was to pick up some oil from the bike shop at the same time. Should be simple and back on the road this weekend.
Well, thanks to online shopping which I dont like to support the shops now stock two thirds of jack shit.
Like Huzo said, I am pretty sure the 80w90 or 75w90 or even olive oil will keep it roatating, but as it is a pain in the arse to change it cant hurt to ask..

Nip down to 'Wottalottcrap Auto', (Probably in your rowing boat if it's belting down anything like it is here and I believe you're copping it worse!) and just grab a litre bottle of a decent 'Name Brand', (Other than Castrol which tends to foam a lot.) 75/90 or 80/90. We use Penrite Pro-Gear 75/90 for everything except smallblock bevelboxes which take an 85/140. I have probably 1/2 a dozen to ten Cali 14 customers some of whom have clocked up a few kms and with the regime of swapping the oil every tyre change we have had zero problems. None. Nada.

Pete

[guzzisteve]

If in the US go to NAPA they have a 80/85/90 covers all the anal types.

[Huzo]

In counrty Victoria near Kyneton.

Jeez !!!
I might come over this arvo.
I'm in Creswick.
0437 070946

[Smithy]

Final drive sorted, ready to rock.
Cheers

Huzo, small world. I was in Creswick last week.
I have some time off over xmas and the plan is to get out and do some riding, I will PM or text you if interested.

[Huzo]

Final drive sorted, ready to rock.
Cheers

Huzo, small world. I was in Creswick last week.
I have some time off over xmas and the plan is to get out and do some riding, I will PM or text you if interested.

Damn right I'm interested !
Norge will be back home in 2 weeks. Interested in the Darwin ride with Bat 11 in May?
Thinking to go to Darwin then left around Perth, or right and down East coast.

[Smithy]

Damn right I'm interested !
Norge will be back home in 2 weeks. Interested in the Darwin ride with Bat 11 in May?
Thinking to go to Darwin then left around Perth, or right and down East coast.

Cool, timing looks spot on with the Norge as I am off from the 18th Dec to 16th Jan.
A few days booked with the missus and family in the middle but there is time for riding. Keen to hear more about the Darwin ride.

[Huzo]

Cool, timing looks spot on with the Norge as I am off from the 18th Dec to 16th Jan.
A few days booked with the missus and family in the middle but there is time for riding. Keen to hear more about the Darwin ride.

No worries !
You can PM me your mobile or contact Bat 11, (Ian).
Alternatively, we can chat when we catch up, plenty of time.

[Orange Guzzi]

You did not mention if the maintenance procedures says to ad "Moly coat type A"   .030liters to the rear gear box.

http://www.harpermotoguzzi.com/molyadditive.htm

My manual on my 2003 bike says 80/90 plus moly coat type A.  I have never figured out what it is short of some people calling it Redline oil.  I have found molybdenum disulfide, but it comes in several formulations. 

I would say the manual is not an exact requirement to keep two pieces of metal from coming in contact and wearing themselves out.  Mine says moly, you does not, mine says 80/90 yours says 85/90.  My Ford Pickup says change it every 100,000 miles. My bike manual says change it after 1,200 km and then every 10,000 km.  I suspect this is over kill.    The weight of the truck and load on the rear end is much higher. 

Is there a right answer?  I really doubt it.   

[Huzo]

You did not mention if the maintenance procedures says to ad "Moly coat type A"   .030liters to the rear gear box.

My manual on my 2003 bike says 80/90 plus moly coat type A.  I have never figured out what it is short of some people calling it Redline oil.  I have found molybdenum disulfide, but it comes in several formulations. 

I would say the manual is not an exact requirement to keep two pieces of metal from coming in contact and wearing themselves out.  Mine says moly, you does not, mine says 80/90 yours says 85/90.  My Ford Pickup says change it every 100,000 miles. My bike manual says change it after 1,200 km and then every 10,000 km.  I suspect this is over kill.    The weight of the truck and load on the rear end is much higher. 

Is there a right answer?  I really doubt it.

Well I don't claim that I'm "right" but here goes.
One litre of Motul 80/90 with molycote.
1/2 litre in gearbox, half in final drive, or until up to fill hole in both.
Change both @ 10,000 k intervals, now @ 130,000
Done it since new, zero dramas, shifts perfectly.

[Orange Guzzi]

Well I don't claim that I'm "right" but here goes.
One litre of Motul 80/90 with molycote.
1/2 litre in gearbox, half in final drive, or until up to fill hole in both.
Change both @ 10,000 k intervals, now @ 130,000
Done it since new, zero dramas, shifts perfectly.

My procedure, Castrol 80/90 up to the max fill hole, install both plugs ride for a year and check the next year. My gearbox is apart on the bench right now.  30,000 miles and looks new.  I did find the nut on the input gear loose allowing the shaft to move back and forth as it climbed the ring gear.  More lock tight will be added. 

[Huzo]

My procedure, Castrol 80/90 up to the max fill hole, install both plugs ride for a year and check the next year. My gearbox is apart on the bench right now.  30,000 miles and looks new.  I did find the nut on the input gear loose allowing the shaft to move back and forth as it climbed the ring gear.  More lock tight will be added.

So the reason it's apart @ 30,000 is as you mention ?
How long gave you had the bike and what is it ?

[Orange Guzzi]

So the reason it's apart @ 30,000 is as you mention ?
How long gave you had the bike and what is it ?

I have done some work on my engine.  There was lubricant mixed with clutch dust inside the housing  Yet there really was no indication of the shaft seals leaking.  The clutch push rod cup seals seem to be working also.  The output shaft seal was replaced by me while the engine was in the bike and was not installed properly.  So being the kinda person that can't leave things alone, I pulled it a part for further inspection, check shift drum shimming and replace seals and o'rings.  I wanted to see how the dog's and gears looked also. 

Upon further inspection of the engine, the tube that the crankcase pvc valve hose connects to does not fit the engine case tight.  Oil from the crankcase vent hose was leaching into the clutch area.  I slid an o'ring down over it with some sealant to seal the gap around the tube/hose connection.  Hopefully oil will not migrate out of the crankcase vent hose into the clutch area now. 

I have had the 11 years, it is a 2003 California Special Sport Aluminium.  Or it was.  Now it is a Franken Guzzi.  Parts from 18 different models and years along with a few custom one off parts.  Put V11 pistons and a Ram clutch recently.  Waiting on the rear gear box to come back from the machine shop.  Wheels are being replace with aluminum Excel rims and new spoke, lighter brake rotor, carriers have been machined lighter.  Why not? The bike should be down from over 600 pounds when I bought it to close to 400.  I will be taking it to be Dyna Tuned when completed in the next month.  I rode it with the new pistons and oem clutch.  It would not handle the increase h.p.  Started slipping.  Hopefully the Ram Clutch will take the increase h.p.  Installing the pistons took a little head work and extra base gasket for exhaust valve-piston clearance.  I did some cleaning up of the squish band to get rid of the small radius on the combustion chamber. 

I have not checked  the cranking compression. Going to the garage now to do this tonight. 

[Smithy]

You did not mention if the maintenance procedures says to ad "Moly coat type A"   .030liters to the rear gear box.

http://www.harpermotoguzzi.com/molyadditive.htm

My manual on my 2003 bike says 80/90 plus moly coat type A.  I have never figured out what it is short of some people calling it Redline oil.  I have found molybdenum disulfide, but it comes in several formulations. 

I would say the manual is not an exact requirement to keep two pieces of metal from coming in contact and wearing themselves out.  Mine says moly, you does not, mine says 80/90 yours says 85/90.  My Ford Pickup says change it every 100,000 miles. My bike manual says change it after 1,200 km and then every 10,000 km.  I suspect this is over kill.    The weight of the truck and load on the rear end is much higher. 

Is there a right answer?  I really doubt it.

No moly for 1400.

You are correct that there is a hundred ways to get a good result and no one correct answer.