V7 III Stone schedule maintenance

[Roebling3]

OM! Having 2nd thoughts about posting pics of my re-birthed V7III R.  Even w/out too much glitter, that red frame, cast wheels and NOS seat may cause 'besmirchment'.  I tend to be foolish & brave. R3~

[jas67]

Head gaskets are almost certainly coated steel laminates, effectively incompressible so no need to re-torque.

Thank you for this timely information, as I'm coming up on the initial service now.
So, OP mentions 900 mile service?  Which is it, 620 or 900?.  Just looked it up, yes, 900 miles for initial service.

[malik]

And while we're here - do the III's also have double walled headers? It was not uncommon for the V7 Classic to break the spot weld fixing the inner pipe to the outer - and produce a rattle. One of stock mufflers dropped a baffle while under warranty - similar sort of rattle (& it was replaced).

[Kev m]

And while we're here - do the III's also have double walled headers? It was not uncommon for the V7 Classic to break the spot weld fixing the inner pipe to the outer - and produce a rattle. One of stock mufflers dropped a baffle while under warranty - similar sort of rattle (& it was replaced).

Yeah, double-walled which is why they are thinker and don't blue.

[Rich A]

The definitive advice - an hour's trip is a slight on the V7 - my early morning "constitutional" is an hour & a half each way & is pretty much a doddle.

One hitch. I'd think the valves would have to be set cold--without a fan, it'd take some hours for the engine to cool down enough to set the valves.

Rich

[sign216]

Also check the torque on your exhaust. A loose header can make a rattly sound much like a valve tick. Further down the exhaust the muffler clamps can loosen. Mine were making some noise and needed tightening at 300 mi.

Agree 100% and add to check the nuts on the exhaust headers too.  I eventually added lock washers and high temp loctite.  No problems after that.

[egschade]

Just completed the initial service on my Stone. Oil, gearbox and transmission (final drive) fluids changed. Valves adjusted to factory specs (all four were about .05mm loose). Went front to back and checked all the suspension, steering head, engine bolts. Entire factory checklist took me about 5 hours all told. Check ride afterwards went fine and the bike feels smoother/stronger. Oh, also reset the rev warning light to 7500 RPM.

Saved receipts for the oils and filters I bought online. Wanted to at least buy the oil filter at the dealer but was told they only had a couple and those were needed for the Service dept. Also took pictures of the valve covers off so I can prove I was in there.

And why did I do it myself? The dealer said they'd need to keep the bike for up to a week. As I don't have a car and no loaners were offered I it made sense plus I saved the $385 plus tax. 

[egschade]

One hitch. I'd think the valves would have to be set cold--without a fan, it'd take some hours for the engine to cool down enough to set the valves.

Rich

Correct - cold valves and warm fluids. I did the valves and took it for a short ride before changing the oils.

[Kev m]

Correct - cold valves and warm fluids. I did the valves and took it for a short ride before changing the oils.

I always drain the oils in the evening, then do the valves the next morning. But either works just fine.

I've got friends who come from PA with their Harleys for service and it takes be a while to cool the primary case to check/adjust the chain (also a cold spec).