03 EV clutch plate replacement? Clutch problem found

[drdwb]

To Dguzzi, my friend Wes came down and had old T3 shop manuals, that with Pete Roppers write up and the crabbing the frame novel from Joe ( I think off Guzzi tech ) provided several references, crimping the springs on the plate worked better than trying to super glue them in place,making sure the ring gear was aligned (dot on one of the teeth) with the TDC mark on the flywheel,and of course having the tool and and gear to make sure the teeth were aligned on the inside are crucial.

[fotoguzzi]

  but now seeing shaft in light look at splines, should I be concerned,and since I�m there replace shaft? Looks like it to me. Suggestions?

 

It's worn alright, question is how deep do you want to dig (into your wallet)?
from what i see in the pics I think you could still use it. is that the end going into the rear drive? what does the coupler look like? maybe just replace the much cheaper coupler?

[drdwb]

Foto  It is the shat going to the rear end I didn’t think about looking at the coupler so gthat may be an option. Tulare to look tonight. I will befor I check on replacement parts. It just looked bad when I compared to the splines forward of the clip.

[pehayes]

The splines are worn, but IMHO you should get another 50K out of that.  Although sloppy parts always exacerbate wear rates.  Half of the wear is in the coupler piece, so replace that and you've eliminated half the slop.  How about the splines on the input of the rear drive?  I usually see those worn more than the drive shaft.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[jacksonracingcomau]

I would replace it and coupler
If cash an issue, clean up, get all rust gone, regrease, use till you can get them
But used low mileage should be easy in US, is mob on ebay always wrecking low mile cali wrecks
To save coin that’s where I would go, as above any slop exacerbates wear, after a while all it will be spline on pinion gear worn

[Wayne Orwig]

My 2004 has an issue with rust on those splines also. Replacing that driveshaft is not cheap.

Maybe water gets in past that rusty bearing. 

Not sure how to seal it other than lots of grease. I often pack the spline coupler with so much grease it is hard to press together.

[dguzzi]

 Do you think the coupling could be drilled for a flush fitting zerk? I guess you would need an access hole to get to that, then a plug to keep water out. 

[Wayne Orwig]

Do you think the coupling could be drilled for a flush fitting zerk? I guess you would need an access hole to get to that, then a plug to keep water out.

Not that hard to pull the rear drive and pack grease in it.

Make sure you seal the swingarm bearing that rusted as well as you can. I think that is the problem area.

[drdwb]

So for those interested here is the coupling, from my observation with better light and magnifying lens the splines on both ends look better than the splines on the shaft. When I put it on and feel for play,there is a slight bit of play,not nearly as much as I expected/feared, so I�m going to assume the wear on the shaft was caused by the breakdown of the bearing, Ive ordered a new bearing and race, and a blind hole race puller, they should be here by Thursday,and barring any other problems hopefully back together this Sat. With under 50,000 miles on the bike I wouldn�t have thought a bearing would have gone,but if it wasn�t greased right at the factory and I didn�t do any maintenance to it, it�s partially my fault. I wonder if the bearing failure caused the clutch plate to go? I�m thinking the shaft replacement can wait, Ive decided to quit pulling the trailer so that should help extend the life of the EV.

This experience just reminds me that I really need to get into my 07 Norge and make sure I�m not headed for a similar experience. Once the EV is put back together that�s my next to do. So you may see posts coming from me on that in the near future.

Thanks again to all the contributors to this thread for the expertise. Once again I am grateful to this forum. I get by with a little help from my friends.

Dave







post images

[fotoguzzi]

the coupler only $32.. maybe get a new one anyway?

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=251

[dguzzi]

After looking at the parts list I see a zerk is not really practical.  So then ...we use this "Green Grease" at work that is tenacious stuff. Clingy and very waterproof. (we use it on centrifuges). I believe it would work quite well in this application.  ~ $10 a tube.

 https://www.greengrease.net/PDF/GreenGease.pdf

[John A]

I think one of the causes of early clutch failure is a misalignment between engine and gearbox. Some are worse than others. I helped ( watched) Bob Nolan out in Washington repair a few of these. The hard part is finding the problem and then indexing correctly. I made some tools for this but gave them away, it's not a common problem. Check it if you have one that doesn't give good clutch life

[drdwb]

Ordered new coupling,should be here tomorrow. Blind hole race puller NAPA $83 (ouch) set of bearing  race and seal drivers Harbor freight $40, oh boy new tools,. Old race out,new one in. Rodekyll gets the helpful hints award on this one for the dremmel tip to get at the old race,NICE,.
So when new coupler gets here I can spend my Saturday putting it all back together. Done with this project before the snow is gone. No excuse for not getting to the rear end suspension on the Norge. Other than the anticipated arrival of our first grand child around Easter. They tell me the little critters change your life,guess will see,how much shop time I get.
Thanks again all.
Dave

[dguzzi]

Thanks for the discussion Dave...Good info for us all!

[Dharma Bum]

As to grandchildren:  These three (on the right) have really cut down my riding and wrenching time, and I'm not complaining a bit


get picture url