2013 V7 Value?

[Spokane2303]

I’m considering a lightly used 2013 V7 and would like opinion from the group on its value?

2013 Special
<1000 miles
West Coast
No damage

My concerns are lack of use and any other known bugs I should be aware of?

My last MG was a 2007 Breva, which I had no trouble with at all other then to my pocket when I sold it.

Thanks

[Perazzimx14]

I�m considering a lightly used 2013 V7 and would like opinion from the group on its value?

2013 Special
<1000 miles
West Coast
No damage

My concerns are lack of use and any other known bugs I should be aware of?

My last MG was a 2007 Breva, which I had no trouble with at all other then to my pocket when I sold it.

Thanks

Lack of use is not a concern. Valuse that somethign only you can determine. What is the asking price?

[pyoungbl]

2013 is, IMHO, a particularly good year for the V7.  You get the single throttle body, steel gas tank, 300 watt dry alternator (much easier to turn the crank when checking the valves).  Tires will be at least 5 years old and should be replaced.  I'd plan on installing a new battery.  Otherwise you are looking at a solid bike where someone else has taken the depreciation hit. 

Peter Y.

[Devildog]

Our son sold his '13 for $5k, with 4,000 miles, serviced, new tires and Marlin windscreen. But he was keen to buy a new bike so he probably could have held for a bit more.

[jas67]

$5k is a fair price for a 2013 with 1k miles on it.

I bought my 2014 with 976 miles on it for $5,200, in November of 2015.    It had only just been purchased as a left over that August.   So, I got it with 20 months warranty  remaining.

So, it's now 2018, a 2013 might be able to be had for less, but, still more than $4k.

[egschade]

Just paid $7K for a brand new V7 III Stone. Value is dependent on so many things - timing being a big one. I was able to capitalize on my local dealer receiving a large number of 2017's so they were discounting. A private seller who paid full retail and doesn't really want to sell the bike may ask big money.

For example: Local dealer wants over $8200 for a new 2016 Stornello. PA dealer is listing the same bike for $7K and a local private seller wants $8500 for their 'low mileage' used Stornello. If I remember, the '16 Stornello MSRP was over $11K. The private seller is going to take a huge hit if dealers are taking $3-4K off a new one.

[Kev m]

$5k is a fair price for a 2013 with 1k miles on it.

I bought my 2014 with 976 miles on it for $5,200, in November of 2015.    It had only just been purchased as a left over that August.   So, I got it with 20 months warranty  remaining.

So, it's now 2018, a 2013 might be able to be had for less, but, still more than $4k.

I was thinking that ballpark too.

Op, couple things I'd check:

1. Clutch cable routing - make sure it's not sitting in the head or cylinder in the valley. A wire tie will solve.

2. Spark plug wire routing - make sure it's not rubbing on the tank. Most will eventually replace the caps as they're cheap and if they come loose and ground you risk muffler/cat-con damage. Mine are still original but I'll probably replace them next time they come off.

3. Voltage regulator - this is the big one. For some reason MG spec'd a regulator that charges up to 15 volts and called it normal. And to make matters worse it looks like a bunch started charging over that in the 15-16 volt range. It slowly cooks the battery. A replacement (not OEM) regulator is recommended but check voltage running and if below 15V that could in theory wait as long as it's watched.

4. Keep an eye on the exhaust header nuts, they like to loosen and disappear. Though after I replaced two that did it's not happened again in a couple of years. I probably should check them again someday though lol.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

Jay, what am I forgetting?

I'm purposely NOT mentioning the fuel filter because I think it's much ado, but if you have to pull the tank to replace the voltage regulator (and you do) then it's not much more work to replace the filter than if you want to. Oh and back out the front fuel tank mount bolts, slather them with blue loctite, and snug them up again while you're there.

[Mean Mr. Mustard]

I was thinking that ballpark too.

Op, couple things I'd check:

1. Clutch cable routing - make sure it's not sitting in the head or cylinder in the valley. A wire tie will solve.

2. Spark plug wire routing - make sure it's not rubbing on the tank. Most will eventually replace the caps as they're cheap and if they come loose and ground you risk muffler/cat-con damage. Mine are still original but I'll probably replace them next time they come off.

3. Voltage regulator - this is the big one. For some reason MG spec'd a regulator that charges up to 15 volts and called it normal. And to make matters worse it looks like a bunch started charging over that in the 15-16 volt range. It slowly cooks the battery. A replacement (not OEM) regulator is recommended but check voltage running and if below 15V that could in theory wait as long as it's watched.

4. Keep an eye on the exhaust header nuts, they like to loosen and disappear. Though after I replaced two that did it's not happened again in a couple of years. I probably should check them again someday though lol.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

Jay, what am I forgetting?

I'm purposely NOT mentioning the fuel filter because I think it's much ado, but if you have to pull the tank to replace the voltage regulator (and you do) then it's not much more work to replace the filter than if you want to. Oh and back out the front fuel tank mount bolts, slather them with blue loctite, and snug them up again while you're there.

Kevin
Does any of your excellent advise hold true to 2017 V7lll  models?
Thanks

[Kev m]

Kevin
Does any of your excellent advise hold true to 2017 V7lll  models?
Thanks

I would double check 1 & 2 just in case, but no I expect most/all to be fixed by then. Though I can't say for certain.

[Hymes Inc.]

You are forgetting spark plug boots. Don't want to cook your pipes like I did.

[Kev m]

You are forgetting spark plug boots. Don't want to cook your pipes like I did.

Keep reading #2 [emoji56]

[jas67]

Jay, what am I forgetting?

It may be a fluke, but, the rear brake caliper carrier fixing bolt that goes through the swing arm backed out on my 2009 V7 Classic, resulting in the whole caliper assembly spinning around breaking both the brake hose and speedometer sensor wiring.   

Speaking of that bolt, when you have the rear wheel off, make sure to put that bolt back in the whole way before torquing the rear axle, otherwise, it (brake caliper carrier fixing bolt) might not go in easily and can result in buggering the threads in the swing arm while trying to get it in.     This is like an M14 bolt with a smooth about 1cm on the tip, and a very fine (for M14) thread, 1.0mm.    I have an M14x1.0mm tap that I had to buy when I buggered my threads this way, in case anyone needs to borrow it.

The published spec for the oil filter cover bolt is WAY high, and WILL result in a broken oil filter cover if you torque it that much (don't ask me how I know).      IIRC, 6-8 ft-lb is plenty (somebody please correct me if I'm remembering this wrongly, but, I know it isn't much).    Clean the bolt and cover thoroughly with degreaser, and put some grey RTV on the bolt and cover to keep it from spinning loose if you're afraid it'll come back off (tip from a fellow track-rat, who said this is an acceptable alternative to safety wire for drain plugs and such).

LED headlight and tail light bulbs are a great way to free up some watts for heated gear.   The ADVMonster "Mesh Monster" H4 is what I have in both my V7's.   They're new H4 Rev 3, unfortunately is too long to fit in the headlight shell.    I had an earlier version of the Cyclops H4 in my V7 Racer for a while.   It was great for being seen, but, had poor low beam cutoff for nighttime.   Check out Cyclop's current offerings, they likely have one that'll fit.   The ADVMonster "H4 Native" will definitely fit.  I just put one of those in my Eldorado.   It is fully self-contained within the headlight reflector, and has the metal flange and blade contacts out the back identical to the stock H4 bulb.   The only thing I don't like about it, is that all the light comes out of the top half of the headlight assembly.   Shining it on the garage door from inside the garage, it actually appears to have a nice beam pattern though.   It is plenty bright, great for being seen in the daytime.

Most LED headlights are about 20-25W on low, and 25-30W on high, vs. 55W low and 60W high for an H4.    About 8 watts can be saved at the rear switching to an LED tail light.  I like the ones from SuperBrightLeds.com .    Look at the lumen ratings, buy the highest one they got.   Make sure you get a red LED for the tail light, not white, as all the lumens on a red one are in the red spectrum, where most of the lumen power of a white LED are from elsewhere in the spectrum,and will get filtered out by the red lens resulting in less usable light output.   Don't bother with LED turn signals, they are only on intermittently, of course, and also will not flash at the correct speed.   Total power savings about 38 Watts, which is enough to not be at a power deficit, even running a heated jacket and gloves on high (about 100W, but, the V7 does have some excess power, just not 100W worth).

[jas67]

Rear tire removal:    some have said that you need to remove the bevel box from the swing arm to remove the rear tire.    With stock tire sizes, at least, I have never done this.    I have, however, had to let the air out to squeeze it between the drive flange splines, paddles, or whatever they're called, and the other side of the swing arm.   You'l also need to remove the left muffler, remove left lower shock mount bolt, and move the shock up and out of the way (can leave the upper bolt on).   See comments in my previous post about the caliper carrier arm fixing bolt.

[jas67]

Clutch cable adjustment -- I've found that on the 3 V7's that I've owned clutch cable freeplay needs to be adjusted pretty closely, as you need all the clutch cable pull you can get to fully disengage the clutch, otherwise, you'll find it tricky to get into neutral with the engine running.

I had a pair of adjustable levers on my 2009 V7 Classic, and found that had to have the clutch lever adjusted to be in the furthest from the handlebar setting to get the maximum amount of clutch cable pull as I could.

[Travlr]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Moto-Guzzi-V7/401491385601?hash=item5d7ac05d01:g:F-IAAOSwwjRaf2Du&vxp=mtr

[cbrider]

One disadvantage to owning a bike like Moto Guzzi is the relatively low resale value. Most people don't even know about them, and many of those who do are reluctant to purchase one because there are not many dealers around for parts and support.

I purchased a new leftover 2017 Honda CB1100EX a couple of weeks ago. I really like my 2014 V7 Stone, but thought I should sell it because I probably won't be riding it much. My V7 is in almost perfect condition, but it does have about 22,000 miles on it. I have listed it for sale on craigslist and also on another motorcycle forum. Not only have I not had any offers, I haven't even had a reply to my ads.

Oh well, I would probably regret selling it anyway.

[kingoffleece]

I'd seriously consider one of the fine leftover 16 or 17 MY bikes for only a little more.  Then again, I can't imagine selling my V7 so price, while important, is not critical.

[pyoungbl]

I will officially predict that the Stornello will end up being much like the 1000S.  They did not sell well when new.  Dealers were stuck with them.  As time went on they became appreciated and now fetch a premium because so few were ever sold.  In my mind the 1000S, green frame, is as pretty as a motorcycle can be.  As i recall, about 170 total imported into the USA.  Damn hard to find now and only at a price that makes your heart skip a beat.

Peter Y.

[mjptexas]

I wouldn't offer more than $4,000.

[Spokane2303]

$3,850!

Rode her home today, parked her in my shop and started ordering service parts since she never received a 600 mile breakin service.

Ran great!  New battery installed prior to ride and all “old” fluids checked prior to ride home.

I’m back in the Guzzi family!

[jas67]

$3,850!

Rode her home today, parked her in my shop and started ordering service parts since she never received a 600 mile breakin service.

Ran great!  New battery installed prior to ride and all �old� fluids checked prior to ride home.

I�m back in the Guzzi family!

Congrats!   Welcome to the the small block club.

[lti_57]

$3,850!

Rode her home today, parked her in my shop and started ordering service parts since she never received a 600 mile breakin service.

Ran great!  New battery installed prior to ride and all �old� fluids checked prior to ride home.

I�m back in the Guzzi family!

Congrats Ride her over First Wednesday of the Month at the Rocket Market on the South Hill

[TimmyTheHog]

$3,850!

Rode her home today, parked her in my shop and started ordering service parts since she never received a 600 mile breakin service.

Ran great!  New battery installed prior to ride and all �old� fluids checked prior to ride home.

I�m back in the Guzzi family!

Damn that’s a good price 

And thanks to your post, I actually found my spark plug coil routing touching the stupid head...

[Kev m]

$3,850!

Rode her home today, parked her in my shop and started ordering service parts since she never received a 600 mile breakin service.

Ran great!  New battery installed prior to ride and all “old” fluids checked prior to ride home.

I’m back in the Guzzi family!

Awesome!

Enjoy.

[kballowe]

$3,850!

Rode her home today, parked her in my shop and started ordering service parts since she never received a 600 mile breakin service.

Ran great!  New battery installed prior to ride and all �old� fluids checked prior to ride home.

I�m back in the Guzzi family!