Cal 2 air filters and dizzy dilemna

[brider]

I decided to combine my (2) current issues into one thread, since they're kind of related.

Disclosure: I can't recall the last time I adjusted the timing for the cyl requiring dizzy rotation. I've had the bike for 17 yrs and that memory is lost in the mists of time.

My idea of using a 13mm crowfoot on the end of an extension to access the dizzy clamp bolts does not work well in practice, because of a big, fat, stiff braided ATF hose running right over top of the forward bolt. I was able to get in there with a combination of crowfoot/universal joint/extension and straight 13-mm open-end (in true Chuck Peterson fashion with my tongue sticking out) turning 2 deg rotation with each for 15 min to loosen it enough to no longer provide clamping force, but I don't even think a dedicated dizzy wrench would have worked.

Also hindering access was the stock intake snorkel in that area.

The aft bolt was a LITTLE easier to get to with a box-end, but right now the carb is off. and I don't think I could get to it with a box-end with the carb on, even with (again) a dedicated dizzy wrench, because the massive airbox is in the way. The airbox prevents me from coming in from the top with my crowfoot, also.

Q1: Assuming I can get to ONE of the dizzy bolts when the time comes to adjust timing, is it OK/sufficient to rely on a SINGLE clamp bolt to hold the dizzy in place?

Q2: With a switch to pod filters to get rid of the stock airbox (I am defeated; I liked the "idea" of stock, and the intake noise was nil, but it makes life way too difficult) and alleviate most of the dizzy-access problems described above,  don't I need to have a venting line from the crankcase to the intake? I looked at my LM IV which has pods, and there is a line for a block vent into a "T" between the pods to provide block venting. I looked at MG Cycle for their pod filters for my bike, and there's no such "T" provision.

Pretty much decided to go to pods, just concerned about crankcase venting. I remember my Convert with oil spewing forth constantly, and DON'T want to go back to that condition. Also questioning the need for (2) dizzy clamp bolts when my old Range Rover with a GM-clone engine uses only (1) clamp bolt.

[guzzisteve]

Q1-- I use a dizzy wrench (K-D) on both bolts, may come loose w/1.
Q2-- My Cal 2 has no 'T' and works fine, I have the Mallossi pods on mine and Uni pod foam in them.

Both, my LM3 and Cal2 had the same airbox that I took off, all you do is reroute the venting to the frame and it's fine.
I can take a pic of the Cali and show you, if you want.

[brider]

Q1-- I use a dizzy wrench (K-D) on both bolts, may come loose w/1.
Q2-- My Cal 2 has no 'T' and works fine, I have the Mallossi pods on mine and Uni pod foam in them.

Both, my LM3 and Cal2 had the same airbox that I took off, all you do is reroute the venting to the frame and it's fine.
I can take a pic of the Cali and show you, if you want.

If you don't mind posting a pic here that would be great, otherwise I'll PM you with my e-mail address.

[pehayes]

There is a commercial distributor wrench that works well.  Do you still have points?  It is the wear on the plastic/fiber lifting block, and the buildup of burn/corrosion on the points tips which causes changes in timing.  Have you checked the timing yet with a strobe?  Hate to have you do all this work just to discover that the timing is already spot on.  Ditch the points and do a Dyna-III ignition.  Nothing to wear and  hence no reason the timing should ever change once set.

Might be good to post your location.  Maybe someone nearby has the wrench to loan.

Here's one from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Vim-Products-VIMV117-Chrysler-Distributor/dp/B000PHAIB4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1533055523&sr=8-2&keywords=13mm+distributor+wrench

Here's a used one on EBAY.  This is the exact same as I use:
https://www.ebay.com/i/332716363106?chn=ps

Apparently KD doesn't make it any more.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[guzzisteve]

OK, I needed to ride it anyway. Pulled tank. It's real easy, you need an 'S' hose to go from front frame here


To bellhousing big outlet w/check valve in here



Then a 5/16" hose from frame rear member here


To the small inlet drain back to pan next to big hose on bellhousing. Then a 5/16" hose from outside air vent in front of big hose on frame to back behind starter and down to fresh air under bike.
More Pics









I must have threw out 20 or more airbox's in the 80's

[brider]

  Hate to have you do all this work just to discover that the timing is already spot on.  Ditch the points and do a Dyna-III ignition.  Nothing to wear and  hence no reason the timing should ever change once set.

Thanks, I will "buy it now" as soon as I get home. Guess I bought a set of crowfoot wrenched for some future job.

I suspect my timing is spot-on (for the RH cyl), I used a light many years ago, but there hasn't been that many miles since. I'll use the light again before I start messin' with the timing.

I considered a DIII many times, but to be honest I have had no issues with the stock points, and the whole Dyna thing I have gauged from my informal readings to be 60% in favor of points, 40% Dyna (bracing for the onslaught now).

Thanks for the pics, GuzziSteve!

[guzzisteve]

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1009

Here is S hose