Just a couple of notes for anyone who is contemplating an alternator belt replacement:
1. The job is made considerably easier by removing front brake calipers(support by hanging them from bungee cord), front axle & wheel, and oil cooler bolts(support oil cooler-a gallon paint bucket worked swell for me).
2. The alternator tension bolt locknut can be accessed much more easily if you remove the two bolts that hold the HT Coil(I think that's what it is) on the right side of the fairing frame and let the coil hang free.
The 'alternator fixing screw' needs to be removed completely to remove an intact alternator belt.
3. Many of the previous alternator belt threads have mentioned a hard-to-access top allen-head bolt on the alternator cover.
On my '08 Norge the top hole on the cover was plugged at the factory (threaded hole still in engine block) so no need for stubby allen wrench there. (May be the same on '09-'10 - I can't say for sure).
The next two L/R holes from the top can easily be accessed with a ball-headed allen wrench.
4. The correct tension for the new alternator belt can be measured by ensuring the belt can readily be deflected(twisted) 90 degrees.
5. And as so many others have found, my belt at 42,000 miles looked and felt nearly new BUT I replaced with a new one anyway, so now I have an intact spare I can carry in case of in-service failure! YMMV
Torque values:
GENERATOR
Name Torque in Nm
Alternator fixing screw - TCEI M8x45 (1) 22 Nm (16.23 lbf ft)
Alternator fixing nut - M10x1.5 (1) 30 Nm (22.13 lbf ft)
Alternator pulley nut on crankshaft - M16 (1) 80 Nm (59 lbf ft) - Loctite 343 (you really shouldn't need to remove this item for simple belt replacement)
Thanks to Guzzi Guru Randy Peterson for reassuring me that this job was within the capabilities of the average ex-hippie shadetree mechanic!
HTH someone else...
