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At one of our rallies a bloke rode from South Australia to the Ragged Fringe in NSW on his Airone.It was exquisite. Here are the photos I took.
There's a dealer in Victoria advertising a 1952 Airone on Bikesales. There are some good photos, maybe they'd send some bigger files if you asked. https://www.bikesales.com.au/bikes/details/1952-Moto-Guzzi-Airone-Sport-250/OAG-AD-16171195/?cr=0&psq=%28%28Service%3D%5BBikesales%5D%26Year%3Drange%5B..1980%5D%29%26%28%28%28%28SiloType%3D%5BBrand%20new%20bikes%20available%5D%7CSiloType%3D%5BBrand%20new%20bikes%20in%20stock%5D%29%7CSiloType%3D%5BDealer%20used%20bikes%5D%29%7CSiloType%3D%5BDemo%20%26%20near%20new%20bikes%5D%29%7CSiloType%3D%5BPrivate%20used%20bikes%5D%29%29&pso=60&pss=Premium
Sweet! I would never restore that, just make it mechanically and electrically sound and then ride it every chance I got. To me, it's perfect cosmetically - it fits in right between "too pretty to ride" and "so ugly I'm ashamed of it".
That's a success there Jim!!Buzz Kanter has 2 Falcones and might be selling this one. He is the editor, owner? of American Iron Mag. Good guy and has nice bikes. He cycles them through his garage from time to time.
Congratulations! it sounds good and revs nicely. Start drill that I've been using is turn on oil, turn on fuel, set choke lever so the choke is almost all on, rotate twist grip to lift the slide maybe 1/8" - not more (reportedly this is the reason the throttle spring is not strong enough to close the throttle), ignition advance at 1/4 to 1/3 advance (tight wire is full advance, slack is full retard if set up correctly), tickle carb 1 good second, and kick.Both the GTV and Airone I'm working on seem to run rich and neither idles consistently (perhaps weak magnetos) and the start drill is a little different than the Ariels. I suspect that if the mag and carb were sorted that start drill would be the same as the Ariels. Since both Guzzis appear (by the spark plug) to run rich they seem to need very little tickle and choke and if they don't start within about 3 kicks they are probably flooded. 3 ways I've read to kill turn off the Airone (no decompressor) - close taps to run it out of fuel, put in gear and kill it with the clutch, or let idle slow and drag your boot on the flywheel! So far I've had no problem stopping the engine on the Airone Ride report in the future?
That vapor blaster does a wonderful job.Carlo's SBF22 had solder plugging up the idle air inlet (idle screw adjusts air, while jet size determines fuel quantity) and in two ports in the mouth of the carb. Can you take a good photo showing these ports for us? There are 2 that are side-by-side at about 6 o'clock just inside the mouth of the carb.I suspect they were plugged because the slide&bore are worn and air is leaking by. Wonder if this is the reason for the epoxy?Some of the older carbs are made from very dark alloy and seem to have been painted originally. Some of the remote-float AMALS were originally painted. Italian rebuilders paint some Dellortos:https://www.frigerio-revisione-carburatori-seregno.com/galleria/Here's a picture of a rebuilt & painted SBF22:If you haven't gotten them already, you want the Dellorto parts catalog:http://www.alzavalvole.it/files/carburatori-dell-orto-catalogo-1-motoveicoli.pdfand the Dellorto application manual. This one will show you the original settings for the Airone Turismo.http://www.alzavalvole.it/files/carburatori-dell-orto-regolazione-carburatori.pdfThe files are too large for email. I'll send you the Dellorto SS1 tuning guide too.Dellorto jet sizes are in 100th of a millimeter so a 50 idle jet is 0.50 mm. A 270 atomizer is 2.7 mm. OE parts will have numbers on the jets, atomizer and slide. Slide needle will have a letter & number combo and float needle will have a letter for the height of the groove. The mass of the float is stamped in the top. Aftermarket atomizer and needles had no marks. The idle jet was drilled out on the GTV carb so worth checking with wire gauges. Cheers!
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