These welding rods any good?

[analog kid]

A friend gave me a cheap stick welder this summer, haven't used it yet. Along with it came a bunch of rods in rough shape.

Pardon the dumb question, do these look good to use?

He's a hoarder and packrat (Guzzi content?), these could be 50 years old for all I know. I'm 95 percent sure they're scrap. The flux is crumbling off some of them.
Tks.

[yogidozer]

Look a bit rough. Do you see any number on them?

[luthier]

I would throw them out , definitely anything with crumbling flux, but also anything that hasn't been totally sealed against moisture.
Depends what you want to weld  but in my opinion life is too short for birdshit welding. It takes so much time to fix.
Don't buy cheap rods either. The ones from China are made from recycled steel and will spit and grab and make a really poxy finish.
Go to a pro welder supplies, tell 'em the application and ask for the right rods for the job. You will be amazed. There are specific rods for vertical welding, different gauges for thickness of metal, there are stainless rods that work great on ordinary steel but a bit pricey and so on. It's worth chatting with the experts if they are friendly.

Also quick welding tip: make sure surfaces to be joined are clean , and keep the rod right in the join instead of rotating in a circular motion which will just make the weld go everywhere except where you want it. Chip the slag to make sure you did what you thought you did. Wear eye protection.

[Darren Williams]

Welding rod has a "shelf life" if exposed to atmosphere. If the flux is crumbling and you can't tell what numbers are on it, I would throw it out without a second thought. Go to your local home store and buy some 6011 (which will run AC or DC) if welding mild steel, watch some interweb videos on how to weld, do a little practice and you will have fun and accomplish something, maybe. You gotta have a grinder handy and don't be bashful about using it when you aren't sure or the weld looks like crap. If welding something exotic (alloy or stainless), consult the experts on proper electrodes to use.

A couple things to remember, welding is melting the base metals and adding a little molten fill metal, so understand what "gouge and fill" means when learning how to do it. Most amateur welders use too much heat in place of good technique. Unless you're running a jet rod, you have to "work" the weld bead. A couple techniques are a circular pattern where you move the arc in front of the weld puddle to gouge out and melt the base metal, then circle back to fill the puddle to the proper size and shape. Another method (which I don't like our welders using because it looks bad and can hide lack of root penetration) is the "whip" method. That's where you move the arc straight out in front of the puddle and then straight back, semi rapidly. It's fast but carries some negatives. Just filling the puddle as you go along will result in a lack of penetration at the root of the weld which will be weak, sort of like only soldering.

[analog kid]

Ok thanks everyone for your comments. I will set the rods free to mingle with the other scrap in my scrap metal pile.

Markings on the larger diameter rods was: SSA E46018 / AWS E7018
Markings on the smaller diameter rods is too faint to read, except for 3 red bands around the base, if that means anything.

I don't have anything to weld yet, when I do I'll get new rods. I can spark & spatter as well as anyone.

[Chuck in Indiana]

These welding rods any good?

No. 

[Rebochi]

Junk

[xackley]

The first 2 picture represent rods to be used to make hooks and hangers.
The second 2 pictures should be baked at 250* for a few hours, and then tested on scrap metal while working on creating a pretty bead.
Most home welding wants 3/32 rod. 70-18 works well with AC and DC welders.
You also want a small batch of stainless rod, 309 or 310, which will work for most stainless to stainless, and stainless to mild steel.

Edit, those first 2 pictures could be useful for when you want to crank up the amps and burn a hole or rough cut a bar or angle.

[Lumpy Idle]

...Wear eye protection.

i'd like to add to that. the off-qasing from arc welding is particularly noxious.  you do not want to assault your lungs with that stuff. wear the appropriate respirator. i use the standard 3m pink filter half-mask for all welding.  also be advised that the light emitted from any welding setup can cause melanoma. why risk any of it, take an extra minute and put on the proper PPE - even if it is just a quick little job.

[fotoguzzi]

I wonder how many people will answer this question the same way with different words?

Nyet.

[Lumpy Idle]

Not to argue and any protection is better than no protection but a non-fitted fabric element 1/2 mask respirator is about as good as taping a couple coffee filters over you mouth and nose.

oh yeah...of course. we are in agreement. i think this may be a wordification problem. i use and recommend (at least) the respirator type half-mask with screw on filters. the filters are the round pink cartridges made by 3m and are labelled "P100 particulate filters" (there are other manufacturers.) The thing that i think you are referring to is a simple N95 dust mask (as opposed to a respirator) and while those are good for keeping wood dust out of your lungs i wouldn't use them for much else.  so...terminology - use a respirator, don't use a dust mask. treat your lungs like you own 'em and you'll have 'em for a lifetime.

[Sheepdog]

Buy some fresh rods. 5P is good for beads and/or dirty metal. Those rods you have presently are good for filling in after you’ve made your bead and hot pass. Darrell’s suggestion of a 6011 rod is a good one as it is super all-around. Keep your rods as dry as possible and seal them up tight when you store them. The safety recommendations are no joke; welding can cause all sorts of damage to your skin, eyes, eardrums, and respiratory system.