Leather or textile for cold weather ridding

[Ncdan]

Modern HIGH QUALITY textiles are as abrasion resistant as leather.  It is possible to buy much lower quality textiles with fancy names that are rubbish and will melt at a very low point.  Old neglected leather will also have it's protection value drop quite low.

King, I hear your point on the issue of superior quality textile but from what I've seen of them they are as costly as leather and possibly even more bulky than leather by the time the armor is added.

[blackcat]

For short day rides at cooler temps without rain I will use leather, but for long trips i will wear the Stich. 

I have crashed a couple of times while wearing the Aerostich suit and neither time I was seriously hurt, still have the suit with some road rash but still serviceable. I do have the hip pads in the pants and I'm glad that I had them in those crashes because my hip hit the pavement first and I'm sure that things wouldn't have been so good without those pads.

In really cold weather, nothing but textile as there is more room in the suit to accommodate electric gear.

[mechanicsavant]

I'm agreeing w/ KOF textiles don't detiorate like hides, that's why race organizer's don't allow old suits. One of the hidden secret textile Mfg.s I use is " Moto Port" it's all bespoke ,no alterations needed .race approved Kevlar is available , I'm fond of the 500 denier nylon a bit pricey but, my kit is almost 20 Yrs. Old . Slid it a couple times &walked away ! I've replaced jacket zipper & sleeve Velcro twice

[Toecutter]

Full disclosure. Canadian Prairie Rider, ride from "ice free" in the Spring, to "ice on the roads" in late fall.

I'm a layers guy. Hot or cold, the base layer is always the Stanfield one-piece wool, with wool socks, and a wool "Buff" around the neck.

If it's hot, then the Stanfields also functions as my only shirt, buttoned up or down as needed. Pull on the armoured kevlar riding pants. Leather gloves. My riding jacket is armoured waxed canvas. Biltwell gringo helmet and goggles. I soak the buff in ice water at every stop.


At the extreme cold end of things (which was, in my riding history, at it's most extreme, -16 degrees C.) an extra pair of wool underwear, top and bottom as a base layer under the stanfields, a button up wool shirt (army surplus) over all that, and a THIN windbreaker. Same riding pants as the rest of the year. Same armoured waxed canvas jacket, but I put on an insulated Carharrt vest over it. I have another cold weather "buff" that is fleece for the neck and wool for the face. I break out the heated gloves, or layer up... wool liner glove, covered by a latex glove, covered by a riding glove. Same helmet and goggles.

Wool is king. It gets me through everything. Hot, cold, rain... always wool.

[Tusayan]

Cordura and Kevlar are plastic (nylon and aramid respectively) and do deteriorate in the sun over time.  Some may remember Moto Port suits being tested and they did not match leather for abrasion resistance, only strength which is not the primary issue.  Leather can be maintained and last for decades if the stiching and seams are done properly. It is still and may always be the predominant material for race suits where people plan on falling off, they don't consider it a distant possibility.

An electric vest should be worn tight for best effect, and mine fits under my two piece zip together leathers.  The cord can be run out of the gap in the waist zipper which looks a little funny but on a cold electric vest day it's all under my textile jacket, which extends maybe 6 inches below the leathers waist seam.

I agree about layers, the daily fine tuning they allow is helpful especially when you might be on top of an 8000 ft mountain one day and in a hot valley the next - or both on the same day.  Reconfiguring at a coffee or lunch break works for me.

[Lannis]

For short day rides at cooler temps without rain I will use leather, but for long trips i will wear the Stich. 

Yep, me too.    I like the feel of wool and leather, but it doesn't keep the water out.  So for day rides with a dry forecast, leather.  And on long trips, toting extra gear for rain, and stopping to put it on and take it off and put it on .... doesn't work for me.  So the Aerostich.

Lannis

[bodine99]

I have a River Road (Tucker Rocky) 3/4 length textile with a zip out liner I have never taken out. Room underneath for poly sleeveless vest &-or a non hoodie sweatshirt, and I wear a pull over neck warmer. Textile over pants with full length leg zippers and boots with no laces (air can't get in). windshield/fairing and bark busters also a big help

[kingoffleece]

Absolutely correct.  many of the aramid fabrics are UV sensitive.  Prolonged exposure will compromise the strength and integrity of the fabric.

Leather needs to be maintained with non silicone based products.  In fact, one should avoid any type of pretro-chemical treatment for leather.  That included a LOT of big box products.  If you see petroleum distillates of any kind move on.  You might also consider not purchasing leather garments with Kevlar(tm) thread or similar.  They can cut right thru in certain impact and slide scenarios.

[blackcat]

I recently purchased a Belstaff roadmaster motorcycle jacket with armor in the shoulders and elbows. Yes it’s a wax cotton jacket, but not quite like the old gear. I still hate the zipper but the jacket does look good off the bike.  I also found an establishment that will professionally re-wax the jacket for $50 bucks, which is cool because I have two Aerostch wax cotton jackets that I can’t get waterproofed even though I’ve done them a couple of times.

If anyone is interested: New England Reproofers for the wax treatment.

[kingoffleece]

NCDAN,
It can be that way, or not.  But I know what you mean for sure.
I have a Vanson that's my favorite by a mile but it's heavy, still a bit stiff  after YEARS of riding, and built like a tank.

[Ncdan]

NCDAN,
It can be that way, or not.  But I know what you mean for sure.
I have a Vanson that's my favorite by a mile but it's heavy, still a bit stiff  after YEARS of riding, and built like a tank.

Yea, I think what it comes down to is that a garment which offers superior protection is going to be a bit stiff and bulky regardless of material. I have a leather California Highway Patrol motor jacket that I got back in the early 80s, it's a Schott, made in NYC and it's still stiff, to a point. It's made from horse hide and weights 5lbs. It has a scraped on the shoulder where a tractor made a Uturn in the roadway without attempting to look to see if anyone may be passing. Cracked a couple ribs but no road rash!

[Chuck in Indiana]

I have a leather suit in SoCal, but gave up on leather in the Midwest years (and years) ago. Too cold when it's cold, too hot when it's hot. Need to carry a rain suit, etc.  To answer the OPs question, textile for cold wx..

[Toecutter]

I have a leather suit in SoCal, but gave up on leather in the Midwest years (and years) ago. Too cold when it's cold, too hot when it's hot. Need to carry a rain suit, etc.  To answer the OPs question, textile for cold wx..

You forgot "heavy as a very heavy thing" when wet. Yeah, I love the abrasion resistance, but I'm not racing. If I was, I'd be wearing dead kangaroo.

[dcardo021]

I use both leather and textile depending on mood. Battery powered electric vest, heated grips. Works well into the teens. Love the feel of a leather jacket

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[v7john]

I always wear my well-maintained leathers with waterproofs as necessary which is most of the time in winter. There isn't any shortage of rain here. All my leathers are treated with wax so they don't get soaked and, although they will never be completely waterproof, I don't have to rush to stop and suit up.

My winter kit.

Top half. Thermal base layer, shirt, wool jumper, windproof mid-layer jacket, leather jacket without its liner, waterproof jacket. I wear a buff but can't get on with a balaclava.

Bottom half. Thermal base layer, sealskin socks, leather trousers and well-waxed leather boots. I sometimes wear leg-warmers (remember them?) up over my knees. Waterproof over-trousers that zip open from waist to ankle. No one-leg-in-the-trouser-dance for me!

This year I have invested in some Gerbings heated gloves but have yet to try them. It's always my hands which are the problem. Till now I have worn silk liner gloves, winter leather gloves and gortex overmits.

I also ride behind leg shields and fairing/screen with hand protection in winter. The naked bike gets put away.

[twhitaker]

I got a First Gear Thermo 6 years ago for just under $200. It's a one piece with 2 way leg zippers, waterproof, and comfortable down to 20 degrees. Above 60 degrees it's too warm. No armor.

[kingoffleece]

I got one of the EDZ suoer lightweight tops sold in the UK after a recommendation from a KoF dealer in the UK.
Folds up to the size of a softball, weights about 4 oz, and adds what seems like at least 10degrees extra warmth.  It's always tossed into a tank bag or top case as supplied by the bike, and works an absolute treat.

Looks like Aerostitch sells something similar.

[Ncdan]

I got one of the EDZ suoer lightweight tops sold in the UK after a recommendation from a KoF dealer in the UK.
Folds up to the size of a softball, weights about 4 oz, and adds what seems like at least 10degrees extra warmth.  It's always tossed into a tank bag or top case as supplied by the bike, and works an absolute treat.

Looks like Aerostitch sells something similar.

For sure, some of the new cold weather gear all but eliminates electric stuff in all but the extreme weather.

[Paul Brooking]

I have a ten year old Gore-Tex Windstopper N2S thermal from my cycling days. (similar to the one below)
Very thin, very breathable, windproof and designed to be worn as a base layer (Next 2 Skin).
It is also surprisingly shower/rain resistant for something that does not have sealed seams.
Lives in my top box during Spring, Summer and Autumn.
Goes under my ventilated summer jacket when it is cool or bucketing down with rain and keeps me warm and dry.
Particularly useful on the workday commute as it goes over my business shirt and keeps me dry on rainy days.
I've also used it as single layer under my leathers in winter.

[Paul Brooking]

Columbia also make a line of ski/casual clothing called OmniHeat .

This is "Space Blanket" technology that uses silver dots to make a internally reflective garment that keeps the heat inside whilst allowing it to breathe and keep the wind out.

My partner and daughter use the 'puffer' style jacket for winter as it is windproof, shower proof and very thin (not the "Michelin Man" look you get from Down Jackets)

I will probably buy a set of the pants to use under my leathers or textile pants.

[Ncdan]

Speaking of leather, check out this 35 year old California Highway Patrol issued motor officer jacket. These were horse hide, tougher than tan cow hide. This one never actually got pliable, it's still heavy and stiff but surprisingly comfortable when actually in an upright position. It has a kidney brace and wide loops to allow the Sam Brown gun belt. It is warm with good under layers. Old school for sure, I got it in 83, we kissed the pavement in 98. It protected my hide but not my ribs:(

[Tom]

Textile with electric today  that’s what I rid in 

In warmer climes, I rid myself of leather.     Winter is more for leather with thermal liners. 

[Lannis]

Speaking of leather, check out this 35 year old California Highway Patrol issued motor officer jacket.

Can't see it ... ?

Lannis

[Ncdan]

Sorry Lannis, old timers syndrome kicked in before I finished the task. That seems to happen more and more:(


Click on the picture for a better shot

[kingoffleece]

Schott jackets are about 1 degree removed from armor!

[wirespokes]

Schott jackets are about 1 degree removed from armor!

And just about as heavy. My first motorcycle jacket was horse hide. Wish I still had it, but it was the traditional Harley style that I'm not into these days.

[Ncdan]

For a great movie on some cold rainy day with nothing to do, find the old Dirty Harry movie from the early 70's, Magnum Force. The motorcycle cops in that movie are wearing the exact same jacket as the one I have and posted. They are definitely old school and possibly out dated but I still think they are totally functional and cool! Mine is very warm with modern underlining clothing. Down side, after 38 years still stiff and heavy, horse hide.

[Lannis]

Schott jackets are about 1 degree removed from armor!

Schott and Langlitz jackets are the oldest of Old School.   Their School is so old they don't even teach History there because it hadn't happened yet.

I have a Schott vest (that apparently shrank quite a bit since 1979) and it is absolutely top-quality.   I can just imagine what their jackets must be like ....

And I love the old Langlitz catalog, although I've never been able to bring myself to drop Langlitz-sized dollars on one ....

Lannis

[wirespokes]

I've tended to wear the Aerostich in winter and leathers when it's warmer and not raining. I love the Langlitz Goatskins the best but never thought of wearing them with extra layers over the top of them. I'm into the sport bikes, so hang out in the wind. I find the textile suits resist the wind where the leathers slide right through it. The textiles also breathe more than the leathers, so don't have the wind protection unless a wind breaker layer is worn under or over them. The leathers, on the other hand, get cold and transfer the cold into the jacket. Either way, insulating layers need to be worn under them

I wear a neck warmer (a fleece tube like a turtleneck) purchased at a ski shop plus a neck brace I made originally to close up the space under my ears. When I rode the R100RS all the time, the roaring wind noise was awful. To bring it down to manageable levels I made a split, foam doughnut covered in fleece held closed with velcro. It held down the noise so well I stopped wearing ear plugs. Then I found out it kept me warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. It also probably saved my neck after diving onto a boulder head first, after going down a 20 ft embankment, after hitting an elk at 65 mph.

I'll have to try out some of the ideas you guys have given me.