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I'm not sure how the welding would work out. Everything there is hardened, so I assume the welding cycle would soften things.
Then, let your conscience be your guide as to how much you weld it.
Hello again, Just wanted to report on my brazing (weld). of the splined coupler to the pinion shaft. Getting the brass to flow into the splines was solved be drilling 6 each 3/16" holes in the coupler. It wasn't hardened to any great extent and holes were not a problem. Apply heat to one hole at a time fill with molten brass continue heating that area until molten brass wicks into the splines. Let cool between holes and check runout. When finished I had about .003" of wobble, not perfect but I think it will be okay. Wes
About that brazing method, from a guy who knows virtually nothing about metallurgy beyond forming 7075-T6 sheet: Does the brass rod material bond with weld-like strength to the splines of the coupler and pinion? And back to the tack-welding method: I am in a similar boat (see parallel topic for my Cal 2), but was considering Chuck's tack-welding method, tacking the coupler to the nut which is staked to the pinion. Coupler OD and nut OD where they meet are virtually the same, making a very opportune place to weld. Wouldn't/couldn't you be able to braze at this location also?
If you tack it to the nut, what's to keep the nut from spinning off even if it's staked?
??? Staking is the only positive lock for the nut anyway....if the splined coupler is tacked to the staked nut, and assuming the tacks hold forever, the coupler keeps the nut from spinning even in the absence of the stake.
Chucks Brazing Method
Unless the splines fail completely.
Nope. I would never do that..once you braze something, welding is out of the question.
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