A little different from many travelogues I've seen.
Good on 'em for trying it. I note that although the descriptions tell about absolutely constant, maniacal, wall-to-wall traffic, their opening picture shows a completely deserted modern road?
And if there are no accidents to be seen, how is the traffic as "bad" as they say?
You can tell that a little attitude adjustment is needed when they started out in full gear and helmets. Me, I'd look to see what the locals are wearing to ride, and wear that (although no one will ever mistake me for an Indonesian). Probably a white singlet or shirt, loose pants, and sandals, or whatever they're wearing.
Amenities? My expectations would be so low starting out that anything would be an improvement!
I'd do it, but it would have to be without Fay; she's already said "NO!" to riding in Asia ...