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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Dirk_S on July 21, 2025, 03:40:46 PM
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I’m 96% sure that I want to remove the ABS on my V7 III, but if I recall (and I could be lying to myself), a Guzzi dealer in the Midwest had told me that doing so will eventually fry the ECU. Is there validity to this statement?
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I’m 96% sure that I want to remove the ABS on my V7 III, but if I recall (and I could be lying to myself), a Guzzi dealer in the Midwest had told me that doing so will eventually fry the ECU. Is there validity to this statement?
I have no idea on MG's but its common place to eliminate and/or bypass the ABS on BMW's with iABS-III servo assist brakes w/o shortening the longevity of the ECU. I have done it both ways by seperating the ABS unit fromt he "brain" and remounting the brain or just leaving the ABS/brain in place and removing the and bypassing the brake lines.
If memory serves the V7 have a fues that you can pull effectively making the ABS inoperable. Not sure the ECU would know any different if the ABS is not powered or removed in it entirety??
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Just curious: Why would one want to disable the ABS? It seems, to me at least, an important safety feature...
Just asking...
Tony C
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Just curious: Why would one want to disable the ABS? It seems, to me at least, an important safety feature...
Just asking...
Tony C
A +1 on this comment. I understand it's your bike, do as you please. Just curious.
Any idea how that might affect your insurance? I get a price break because all my bike have ABS.
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An airbag vest is nice to have. How many of y’all wear that? Full leg armor. A motorcycle with gyroscopic ability to keep you upright. Heck— Four wheels and a cage around you.
Less stuff for the computer to crap out on. This is my go-everywhere bike, and I’d prefer it lean toward the simpler R80 G/S way of living rather than the R1300 GS lifestyle.
I’m even considering going carbureted with this bike.
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Any idea how that might affect your insurance? I get a price break because all my bike have ABS.
They’re fine with it, but they said I could lose a discount.
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I was thinking in the case of a claim. Good that they are OK with it, I would like that in writing.
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While ABS have become really good, it work less and less well the more slippery the road surface become. Hence on gravel and on snow and ice, ABS does not come close to matching a skilled rider. Or car driver. Another issue is bumbs, which can trick some ABS systems into thinking the bike is about to do a stoppie, and hence reduce braking power. IIRC, the V9 manual warn about this, as does many other bikes.
Since 1980, I could perhaps been better off one time with ABS. That was in 2007. With today's best systems, definitely. But if I had started to use ABS in 1988, I would either have had to slow down quite a bit, or I would have failed to stop in time hundreds of times. I still hate ABS in cars, but now that I just trundle around, I am not bothered with it on my bikes. Still not something I would choose if given the option. YMMV.
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They’re fine with it, but they said I could lose a discount.
You would have to be very unlucky for an inspector to notice ABS was missing after an accident, plus the opponent would have to prove that the outcome would have been different had the bike been fitted with a working ABS system.
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You would have to be very unlucky for an inspector to notice ABS was missing after an accident, plus the opponent would have to prove that the outcome would have been different had the bike been fitted with a working ABS system.
In the US of A motorcycles are not required or have to be equipped with functional ABS like has been the case with automobiles for over a decade. On my oil cooled BMW's there is an button on the left grip that I can poosh anytime I desire to enable/disable the ABS and my insurer could care less.
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An airbag vest is nice to have. How many of y’all wear that? Full leg armor. A motorcycle with gyroscopic ability to keep you upright. Heck— Four wheels and a cage around you.
Less stuff for the computer to crap out on. This is my go-everywhere bike, and I’d prefer it lean toward the simpler R80 G/S way of living rather than the R1300 GS lifestyle.
I’m even considering going carbureted with this bike.
The first argument is ridiculous. If you really mean it stop riding motorcycles and become Amish.
The second point is a proven falsehood. More systems or components do NOT in an of themselves correlate to more problems.
Unfortunately both points tend to be religion to those who make them so logic rarely sways them.
@faffi your point borders on religion too. Over the years I once had the same attitude, an arrogance of superiority over the performance of the system. Though ABS systems aren't perfect and yes can lengthen stopping distances slightly in limited circumstances they only do so when most riders would have crashed. Maintaining stability and control as long as possible is still a win 99% of the time.
I don't mind owning a bike without abs but I've still not heard a good excuse to abandon an otherwise properly working system. A workaround for a too expensive repair being a different thing.
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The first argument is ridiculous. If you really mean it stop riding motorcycles and become Amish.
The second point is a proven falsehood. More systems or components do NOT in an of themselves correlate to more problems.
Unfortunately both points tend to be religion to those who make them so logic rarely sways them.
@faffi your point borders on religion too. Over the years I once had the same attitude, an arrogance of superiority over the performance of the system. Though ABS systems aren't perfect and yes can lengthen stopping distances slightly in limited circumstances they only do so when most riders would have crashed. Maintaining stability and control as long as possible is still a win 99% of the time.
:cheesy:I don't mind owning a bike without abs but I've still not heard a good excuse to abandon an otherwise properly working system. A workaround for a too expensive repair being a different thing.
Seriously, I just want less things on the bike. A tad less weight. Less mess. Simpler. I’ve always been fond of my older bikes for not having to cram so much under the tank. If I need to get at something, I’d like less things in the way.
Keep in mind that I’m the one working on my bikes most of the time. I also don’t have a car anymore, and the longer I’m without one, the more I *don’t* miss all the tech. I always drove a manual, refused to use the rear camera or A/C. I desired manual windows, etc.
Now, I may be Pennsylvanian Dutch, but I’m not planning to go as far as Plain Dutch. I just want this bike to be more basic in its base state.
I’d really like for this post to avoid focusing on the WHY. Anyone is free to make another post if it bugs them enough.
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Seriously, I just want less things on the bike. A tad less weight. Less mess. Simpler. I’ve always been fond of my older bikes for not having to cram so much under the tank. If I need to get at something, I’d like less things in the way.
Keep in mind that I’m the one working on my bikes most of the time. I also don’t have a car anymore, and the longer I’m without one, the more I *don’t* miss all the tech. I always drove a manual, refused to use the rear camera or A/C. I desired manual windows, etc.
Now, I may be Pennsylvanian Dutch, but I’m not planning to go as far as Plain Dutch. I just want this bike to be more basic in its base state.
I’d really like for this post to avoid focusing on the WHY. Anyone is free to make another post if it bugs them enough.
Doesn't bug me at all, I just think you're fooling yourself. You could always ditch it if something ever failed right?
And for the record, I was just RESPONDING to the false logic.
But carry on. You do you etc.
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The first argument is ridiculous. If you really mean it stop riding motorcycles and become Amish.
The second point is a proven falsehood. More systems or components do NOT in an of themselves correlate to more problems.
Unfortunately both points tend to :thumb:be religion to those who make them so logic rarely sways them.
@faffi your point borders on religion too. Over the years I once had the same attitude, an arrogance of superiority over the performance of the system. Though ABS systems aren't perfect and yes can lengthen stopping distances slightly in limited circumstances they only do so when most riders would have crashed. Maintaining stability and control as long as possible is still a win 99% of the time.
I don't mind owning a bike without abs but I've still not heard a good excuse to abandon an otherwise properly working system. A workaround for a too expensive repair being a different thing.
I’d bet every year more people are injured by horses than people riding Moto Guzzi’s with air bag vests and disabled ABS :whip2:
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The second point is a proven falsehood. More systems or components do NOT in an[d] of themselves correlate to more problems.
That is utterly illogical!
Each component/system has a mean time to failure/probability of failure, regardless of how reliable it actually is. Increasing the number of distinct parts must increase the likelihood/chance of a failure of a complete item, however small that may be.
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I’d bet every year more people are injured by horses than people riding Moto Guzzi’s with air bag vests and disabled ABS :whip2:
That's because far more people ride horses than moto Guzzis period.
Look I really don't give a shit if Dirk wants to ride naked Rollie style and try to break a land speed record with his Monza copy. Have at it. I'm not a safety Nazi.
My small voice is for the bike itself. I'm just addressing the text and prejudices against it that are based in mythology.
I don't care what gawd he wants to sing too. Just call it what it is.
And I'll chime in as a voice who suspects there's no risk to the ECU with what he wants to do as long as he goes about it in a way that isn't going to cause a short or the like.
I'm under the impression he can't just pull a fuse because he'll lose other functions like the dash.
But I'm pretty sure what he wants can be accomplished.
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Why not just ride older bikes without all the technology? I wouldn’t hesitate to get on my ‘76 LeMans and ride across country today. Only failures in nearly 50 years are one coil and a U Joint. I think a T3 or G5 would perform as well if not better than a modern V7, be easier to work on and have none of tech you want to get rid of.
My 850 LeMans is still faster than my V85TT if not quicker. Just the riding position doesn’t suit me as well today.
Pete
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That is utterly illogical!
Each component/system has a mean time to failure/probability of failure, regardless of how reliable it actually is. Increasing the number of distinct parts must increase the likelihood/chance of a failure of a complete item, however small that may be.
Science and technology doesn't answer to only logic.
What matters way more than the number of components is the quality of the components, the initial design of the system, and the conditions under which they are operated.
Case in point modern cars and trucks with tons more components on average go much further without repairs than predecessors.
EFI and electronic ignitions have much more components but tend to require much less service.
The average lifespan of cars and trucks are much higher today than they were when we were kids.
But people will look at outliers or say but it was easier to fix bla bla bla. Sure simplicity might have meant it was easier to take a given machine to 1/2M miles but that wasn't the norm and it wasn't without repairs and failures.
But history is full of things that were proven despite being contrary to oversimplified logic.
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That's because far more people ride horses than moto Guzzis period.
Look I really don't give a shit if Dirk wants to ride naked Rollie style and try to break a land speed record with his Monza copy. Have at it. I'm not a F'n safety Nazi.
My anti-ABS idea is for the V7 III dual-sport project, not the chubby Monza costumed V9. I’ve been riding the V7 III for 2 months now with the ABS disabled. Just wondering if I can go even longer with it disabled. Like, infinitely longer.
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You might want to sell the bike and just buy a T-3.
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Son-in-law riding down the gravel hill on his Concourse. Bike wouldn't let him apply full stopping abilities because of the less tractable surface. Thank goodness the road leveled before the T intersection.
Of course I can't do full "trail braking" with my T3 either
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You might want to sell the bike and just buy a T-3.
And have even more weight for off-pavement riding? Nah. What I have is enough. But also— I already have a 70s bike that takes up repair attention. I bought (saved, perhaps) this V7 from salvage auction and have already made it more what I desire.
(https://i.ibb.co/sdXvc2LC/IMG-5617-Original.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sdXvc2LC)
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My anti-ABS idea is for the V7 III dual-sport project, not the chubby Monza costumed V9. I’ve been riding the V7 III for 2 months now with the ABS disabled. Just wondering if I can go even longer with it disabled. Like, infinitely longer.
The answer is, yes!
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My anti-ABS idea is for the V7 III dual-sport project, not the chubby Monza costumed V9. I’ve been riding the V7 III for 2 months now with the ABS disabled. Just wondering if I can go even longer with it disabled. Like, infinitely longer.
I know that, doesn't change my example which was just meant to illustrate I wasn't arguing against doing what you WANT per se.
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Interesting discussion.....
my BLUF .0000002 cents? The Juice is not worth the squeeze.....
Weight savings? Come on.... Simpler? for the most part, the system is dead simple, bullet proof, and completely unobtrusive. Do you really want to run new brake lines?? Have to make them? all the work to remove the pump, wiring? sensors? etc? I'd leave it alone. If it gets wonky, then start DXing it.
I am not a huge fan of ABS on a bike, or wasn't until I had it on my Norge. The only time it came on is when I was testing to see if it actually worked, and how it felt when it did. Can't remember a time it came on otherwise. Same with the Stornello. But all my other bikes, the Griso, 1200 Sport, Convert, Breva 750, and beloved XS bikes were all without ABS, and I have never felt I needed it. At least for how I ride.
But you are a bit of a nutcase mate :cool: :boozing:...... So have at it! We will be watching from the side lines, especially the Carb conversion.... :bow: :evil: :bow: :evil:
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Dirk_S and myself are on the same page with his sentiments.
Weight savings? Come on.... Simpler? for the most part, the system is dead simple, bullet proof, and completely unobtrusive. ..
This statement is such a contradiction! How can a chunky control box, with pump actuator and associated additional hard brake lines, ABS rings & sensors, be simple(r) and completely unobtrusive? Put together, there is a small though significant weight penalty too. Y'all know that what makes bikes exciting is power to weight ratio? Hang on, what am I saying? Wrong forum: Jeez.
On the two model years of BMW F650GS that the missus had, the ABS control box actually impeded the clutch and throttle cables smooth run. It looked as though ABS had been added as an afterthought. Admittedly, recent machines tend to have ABS designed in from the outset, though still consume 'real estate' that is prime on a motorcycle. They usually congest the limited under tank and underseat locations. There's those ugly pipes that run down the right-hand side of the V7 motor.
For a while, it was de facto/de rigueur to replace factory brake lines with stainless braided hose - so no 'argument' there.
KISS philosophy: you know it makes sense.
Don't get me started on the ludicrous addition of catalytic convertors on the ostensibly efficient ICE motors that are used on motorcycles. Their production cost in terms of pollution & materials, heat issues, disposal and environmental impact are a bureaucratic imposed folly. Let's mask/hide the issue rather than tackling at source i.e. improve the combustion instead.
/soapbox
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Interesting discussion.....
my BLUF .0000002 cents? The Juice is not worth the squeeze.....
Weight savings? Come on.... Simpler? for the most part, the system is dead simple, bullet proof, and completely unobtrusive. Do you really want to run new brake lines?? Have to make them? all the work to remove the pump, wiring? sensors? etc? I'd leave it alone. If it gets wonky, then start DXing it.
I am not a huge fan of ABS on a bike, or wasn't until I had it on my Norge. The only time it came on is when I was testing to see if it actually worked, and how it felt when it did. Can't remember a time it came on otherwise. Same with the Stornello. But all my other bikes, the Griso, 1200 Sport, Convert, Breva 750, and beloved XS bikes were all without ABS, and I have never felt I needed it. At least for how I ride.
But you are a bit of a nutcase mate :cool: :boozing:...... So have at it! We will be watching from the side lines, especially the Carb conversion.... :bow: :evil: :bow: :evil:
Its simpler than you might imagine at least on the R1200GS. All you need is a 8" section of 3/18 rigid brake pipe a bubble flare tool and two hours. If you choose to abandon the ABS pump in place knock 60 minutes off the process.
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(https://i.ibb.co/sdXvc2LC/IMG-5617-Original.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sdXvc2LC)
Question for all of the "don't remove/disable it, you Luddite!" guys: Wouldn't the ABS go into "convulsions" when it doesn't see the signal(s) it expects from the tone rings on the (not original diameter) wheels? Wouldn't it need to be factory calibrated for the 21" front wheel in order work properly?
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My anti-ABS idea is for the V7 III dual-sport project, not the chubby Monza costumed V9. I’ve been riding the V7 III for 2 months now with the ABS disabled. Just wondering if I can go even longer with it disabled. Like, infinitely longer.
If the CPU was going to blow up it would have as soon as you hit the brakes the first time.
Pete
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If the CPU was going to blow up it would have as soon as you hit the brakes the first time.
Eh. The manuals state that the ABS system shuts off in the event of a malfunction and allows the brakes to operate conventionally. My concern is more long-term.
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Question for all of the "don't remove/disable it, you Luddite!" guys: Wouldn't the ABS go into "convulsions" when it doesn't see the signal(s) it expects from the tone rings on the (not original diameter) wheels? Wouldn't it need to be factory calibrated for the 21" front wheel in order work properly?
Good point. Although one *should* recalibrate the traction control system when fitting new wheels, I can’t A) recall if that’s also needed for the ABS, and B) if the recalibration is prepared for such a drastic change in diameter. Maybe I ought to finally fit this speed sensor back on sooner than later just to even find that out.
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The manuals state that the ABS system shuts off in the event of a malfunction and allows the brakes to operate conventionally.
Presumably the warning light blinks constantly and there's a wee bit of black insulating tape, to stop it distracting you. :laugh:
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If you're worried about the complexity of things and are dead set on removing the ABS, consider also removing the ECU and going with a simple aftermarket system like a MicroSquirt or MegaSquirt that is more open instead of being a black box.
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If you're worried about the complexity of things and are dead set on removing the ABS, consider also removing the ECU and going with a simple aftermarket system like a MicroSquirt or MegaSquirt that is more open instead of being a black box.
You know that would also require the replacement of the throttle body and a number of integral sensors on a 1TB smallblock V7 (before the new 25 models). Talk about adding complexity.
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Carbs and an electronic ignition that keys off the crankshaft and most of the complexity is gone
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Wouldn't the ABS go into "convulsions" when it doesn't see the signal(s) it expects from the tone rings on the (not original diameter) wheels? Wouldn't it need to be factory calibrated for the 21" front wheel in order work properly?
No. ABS doesn't know what the wheel diameter is. It is measuring changes in speed, not differences in wheel/tire diameter. The system calibrates itself each time you start up and roll away.
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You know that would also require the replacement of the throttle body and a number of integral sensors on a 1TB smallblock V7 (before the new 25 models). Talk about adding complexity.
Adding complexity to the job, yes, but simplifying the bike. I’m not adverse to getting my hands dirty and putting in some time for a satisfying end product.
Like, when it was mentioned “do I want to go through all the time to remove the ABS pipes, module, make new hoses”, etc. Easy stuff. I’m single. I have the time.
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Adding complexity to the job, yes, but simplifying the bike. I’m not adverse to getting my hands dirty and putting in some time for a satisfying end product.
Like, when it was mentioned “do I want to go through all the time to remove the ABS pipes, module, make new hoses”, etc. Easy stuff. I’m single. I have the time.
How would that simplify the bike?
You would be replacing a single component with a half dozen or more, including a more sophisticated throttle body.
No. ABS doesn't know what the wheel diameter is. It is measuring changes in speed, not differences in wheel/tire diameter. The system calibrates itself each time you start up and roll away.
I believe you are mistaken.
The ABS/TC system runs a self-test after each start up and speed reaches a certain point. It internally checks that it can pulse the modulator servos and that it is getting speed signals. But it doesn't calibrate for differences between the wheels. That action requires a manual signal to the module to actively measure and adjust its parameters which is supposed to be done after tire replacement.
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How would that simplify the bike?
You would be replacing a single component with a half dozen or more, including a more sophisticated throttle body.
I believe you are mistaken.
The ABS/TC system runs a self-test after each start up and speed reaches a certain point. It internally checks that it can pulse the modulator servos and that it is getting speed signals. But it doesn't calibrate for differences between the wheels. That action requires a manual signal to the module to actively measure and adjust it's parameters which is supposed to be done after tire replacement.
Isn't the ABS looking at the tone ring and not the wheel diameter? I know on my R1200GS that came factory with a 19" front wheel I can put on a 17" front wheel from a R1200RT/R and and long as I have the right tone ring the bikes ABS, speedo or ECU is obvious to the change in wheel diameter. The tone ring is the constant not the wheel/tire.
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Thought ABS looked for an abnormal difference wheel rotation to cue that one wheel lost traction? Therefore it required a base differential in memory?
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Isn't the ABS looking at the tone ring and not the wheel diameter? I know on my R1200GS that came factory with a 19" front wheel I can put on a 17" front wheel from a R1200RT/R and and long as I have the right tone ring the bikes ABS, speedo or ECU is obvious to the change in wheel diameter. The tone ring is the constant not the wheel/tire.
Yes tone ring, but it's relation to actual distance the tire covers varies with tire diameter. Just like changing the size of your Jeep or truck tires changes the relationship between the driveline and how far you've traveled. So it memorizes tiny differences between what it expects to see at each tone ring before thinking one of them is starting to slide.
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Yes tone ring, but it's relation to actual distance the tire covers varies with tire diameter. Just like changing the size of your Jeep or truck tires changes the relationship between the driveline and how far you've traveled. So it memorizes tiny differences between what it expects to see at each tone ring before thinking one of them is starting to slide.
Revisiting the owners manual, I remembered the recalibration was needed for the traction control, which is mentioned in the literature. However, recalibration is not stated in the ABS section, just notes that the system recognizes lockups:
ABS system (02_36, 02_37, 02_38)
The vehicle is equipped with a locking «ABS» system on the rear and front wheel.
The ABS system is a hydraulic - electronic device that limits the pressure within the braking circuit when a sensor located on the wheels detects the tendency to lock up, increasing the stability of the vehicle in braking with respect to a traditional braking system in order to decrease the risk of falling.
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Unless there is a really good inertial sensor or GPS in the equation the ABS needs the "other wheel" as a reference to its rotational speed.
Not sure what happens if you could lock both in exact unison?
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Now that's a good question. It is now running through my brain searching for an answer. :undecided:
kk
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More from the service manual, if it’s at all helpful:
When the sensors (3) detect a significant speed difference between the rear and the front wheels (for example, when rearing up on the back wheel), the ABS system could take this as a dangerous situation.
In this case, two things may occur:
- The ABS system intervenes by releasing pressure from the calliper until the wheel turns again at the same speed of the other wheel. It is not possible to brake for an instant.
- if the speed difference lasts long, the system may detect an error and deactivate the ABS system. As a consequence, the system works like any regular braking system.
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Revisiting the owners manual, I remembered the recalibration was needed for the traction control, which is mentioned in the literature. However, recalibration is not stated in the ABS section, just notes that the system recognizes lockups:
They are related systems sharing data.
Again a self-test isn't a recalibration or vice versa.
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I believe you are mistaken.
The ABS/TC system runs a self-test after each start up and speed reaches a certain point. It internally checks that it can pulse the modulator servos and that it is getting speed signals. But it doesn't calibrate for differences between the wheels. That action requires a manual signal to the module to actively measure and adjust it's parameters which is supposed to be done after tire replacement.
Learn something new everyday. I've got some reading to do.
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Just pull the 20 Amp fuse (49) if you must, I can't imagine why it would cause the ECU to fry.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2019_V7_III_E4_Anniversary_-_Racer_-_Special.gif
Like they say its your bike, you are entitled to spoil it.
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Just pull the 20 Amp fuse (49) if you must, I can't imagine why it would cause the ECU to fry.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2019_V7_III_E4_Anniversary_-_Racer_-_Special.gif
Like they say its your bike, you are entitled to spoil it.
As with the V7 II, pulling the ABS fuse disconnects the dash as well. No speedo, odo, tacho. The solution is to either pull the front wheel sensor off every time I desire no ABS, install an inline on/off switch, or remove the ABS module completely.
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(https://i.ibb.co/357Bvwry/616-Vaz2kl9-L-SL1500.jpg) (https://ibb.co/357Bvwry)
As with the V7 II, pulling the ABS fuse disconnects the dash as well. No speedo, odo, tacho. The solution is to either pull the front wheel sensor off every time I desire no ABS, install an inline on/off switch, or remove the ABS module completely.
Assuming the front ABS sensor is two wire installing an inline switch should not be too difficult. I have been using these handlebar switches for a while now and they make for a clean factory-esk installation, they are durable and reasonably priced at under $10. The come in on/off or on/off/on. The on/off/on version works a treat when installing dual color LED running lights. Flip the switch one way lights are white flip the other way lights are amber or in the middle position the lights are off.
(https://i.ibb.co/4Zq6FKfV/61-BAw-Syj5-FL-SL1420.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4Zq6FKfV)
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I'm guessing the ABS sensor is two wire and should be easy to install an inline o/off switch.
I have been using these switches off the Jungle for a little while now and am very happy with the durability and clean look. They also come in a on/off/on version and work a treat for dual color LED running lights.
(https://i.ibb.co/4Zq6FKfV/61-BAw-Syj5-FL-SL1420.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4Zq6FKfV)
(https://i.ibb.co/357Bvwry/616-Vaz2kl9-L-SL1500.jpg) (https://ibb.co/357Bvwry)
I actually have the same switch sitting in a bin waiting to be installed should I finally get around to doing the inline switch job.
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Wow, so many varied opinions!
I like the idea of a minimalist dual sport v7III ( this coming from someone who rides a CalVin in quite off-road conditions) I feel that there would be so many more capable bikes for this. Loosing a pound or two is nice but wouldn't you want to go all the way? Toss all the "dead weight" so to speak? All the lights fenders gauge panel, etc....?
As an aside, going to carbs is ok for an OHV. But would be an illegal modification of an imision control (as would non cat pipes...but not many care) depending on your state I.M. test, you may never be able to sell it, or register it as a road bike again.
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Wow, so many varied opinions!
I like the idea of a minimalist dual sport v7III ( this coming from someone who rides a CalVin in quite off-road conditions) I feel that there would be so many more capable bikes for this. Loosing a pound or two is nice but wouldn't you want to go all the way? Toss all the "dead weight" so to speak? All the lights fenders gauge panel, etc....?
As an aside, going to carbs is ok for an OHV. But would be an illegal modification of an imision control (as would non cat pipes...but not many care) depending on your state I.M. test, you may never be able to sell it, or register it as a road bike again.
Easier to put a Mono Guzzi sticker on a DRZ400/DR650 and you'll have a minimalist bike that is road legal and 100 lbs lighter than the V7.
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Wow, so many varied opinions!
I like the idea of a minimalist dual sport v7III ( this coming from someone who rides a CalVin in quite off-road conditions) I feel that there would be so many more capable bikes for this. Loosing a pound or two is nice but wouldn't you want to go all the way? Toss all the "dead weight" so to speak? All the lights fenders gauge panel, etc....?
As an aside, going to carbs is ok for an OHV. But would be an illegal modification of an imision control (as would non cat pipes...but not many care) depending on your state I.M. test, you may never be able to sell it, or register it as a road bike again.
I’m not looking to create a dirtbike or lightweight enduro. But trimming some fat is a worthy endeavor for off-pavement/off-road. I still need lights and mudguards for street legality, and I’m already fairly minimalist in those areas. No need to ‘go all in’. The current KLR and the old R100 GS weigh about as much as this bike. A few pounds less is noticeable, especially as I pack on other weight like luggage and accessories that I want to take.
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Surely a bike ABS only needs to see rotation or not (wheel locking), it cares not for the exact speed of rotation and as there's only 1 wheel per 'axle' it doesn't need the reference from the other wheel like a car would, If so then wheel size is irrelevant? Unless, the ABS sensor doubles up as the speed sensor, in which case then changing the ring or recalibrating the system would be required?
Traction control on the other hand would, presumably need reference to and from the speed of the front wheel to know by how much the rear wheel is spinning.
That said, I don't know any of this this as a fact and I don't have an ABS/TC equipped bike so might be talking complete bollox but it seems logical to me.
As for removing it, well I wouldn't do it but I don't see how it would damage the ECU, though something would probably need disabling to prevent warnings etc.
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As mentioned, TC needs to be calibrated to the set of tires.
If your just putting new tires on of the same size, then it does not NEED to be done. If your changing from a let's say 100/90 to a 100/100 or a 19" to a 21" wheel then I think it would be a good idea.
I helped work on a V7III with TC that would cough and cut out when tried to get moving, idled just fine and would rev just fine until you tried to move. Looked at everything, found nothing. Then we noticed the back tire was rather low on air. Filled tire and all the issues were gone. The TC was seeing the low tire as the wheel slipping since it didn't match the front wheel speed and was kicking on. How simple a fix??
Tom
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As with the V7 II, pulling the ABS fuse disconnects the dash as well. No speedo, odo, tacho. The solution is to either pull the front wheel sensor off every time I desire no ABS, install an inline on/off switch, or remove the ABS module completely.
Thats not what the schematic shows (Do I have the correct schematic?) It shows Fuse G 20 Amp feeds only the ABS unit goodness knows where this fuse is hidden.
You could also switch the wire going to terminal 18 of the ABS unit if you can't find the fuse.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2019_V7_III_E4_Anniversary_-_Racer_-_Special.gif
The Dash is fed from switched 5 Amp fuse D.
You might also check out the +Key input to terminal 4 of the ABS unit, that might disable it also.
Disabling the ABS will also disable traction control, I have only experienced that cutting in once accelerating on a slippery wooden bridge.
Ooops, Sorry Dirk, both the wheel sensors are wired to the ABS box, that means the speedometer won't work if you pull the fuse, because the ABS communicates with the Dash and ECU via the twisted Canbus interface, I wonder if switching the wire to terminal 4 will also disable Canbus.
You might just have to rethink removal of ABS unless you can do it hydraulically e.g. swapping brake lines.
Another option switch just the front speed sensor, the speedometer usually uses the rear sensor I think, that should disable the ABS but it won't save much weight or simplify anything.
I will follow this thread with interest to see what you find.
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When i had my VStrom I put in a switch to turn off the ABS in loose dirt, gravel. It was easy to do on that bike.
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Well. I thought would do as Dirk did and remove the front speed Sensor, tucked it in behind the brake line.
So then I got a pair of annoying lights Winking at me, but heres the part I don't understand.
The bike was powerless would barely do 30 kph at full throttle, I felt like I was going to get run over.
I suspect if the ABS is showing error codes the ECU plays it safe by dialing back the power.
Before I got a mile down the road I pulled over and bolted the sensor back restoring the good power as before.
You are welcome to take the ABS off but I know what I'm going to do,
if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Roy
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An airbag vest is nice to have. How many of y’all wear that? Full leg armor. A motorcycle with gyroscopic ability to keep you upright. Heck— Four wheels and a cage around you.
Less stuff for the computer to crap out on. This is my go-everywhere bike, and I’d prefer it lean toward the simpler R80 G/S way of living rather than the R1300 GS lifestyle.
I’m even considering going carbureted with this bike.
Sell the V7 III and get a Convert or a G5.
No electronics to worry you that way.
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…heres the part I don't understand.
The bike was powerless would barely do 30 kph at full throttle, I felt like I was going to get run over.
I suspect if the ABS is showing error codes the ECU plays it safe by dialing back the power.
Before I got a mile down the road I pulled over and bolted the sensor back restoring the good power as before…
Remember that ABS, MGCT, and the Speedo all work off those speed sensors (the speedo works off the rear). Pulling the speed sensor off its mount will disable the ABS, but the MGCT will continue to try to work. You have to manually turn it off (hold the button in for a few seconds) or else it will act a fool.