Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Parashootist on September 06, 2025, 01:51:46 PM
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As the title states, I just brought home a 2007 California thar was listed as running but running poorly. The seller said he had checked the TPS and a couple sensors without any luck. He did start it up for me to show that it ran although it took a bit of fiddling with the TPS before it started. Left cylinder was a bit tappy but the price was right so I paid the man.
The California isn't really my style so it's not a bike I've ever really researched. What should I check first? Are there any common issues?
I'm thinking I'll probably just order a TPS since the seller never replaced it. I will also adjust the valves. Oil is fresh but the oil pan had some drips on it so I may drop it and replace the gasket. I'm missing the right saddlebag if anyone happens to have one. Otherwise the left one may go up for sale unless there is a reasonable aftermarket option.
(https://i.ibb.co/LzxvWy3Q/20250906-115326.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LzxvWy3Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/ccGw6JFC/20250906-120255.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ccGw6JFC)
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The extra bits that make the CalVin special are rare and or expensive. Expect to pay around $1000 for a replacement side case, I have seen some on eBay not in good condition, and Harpers may also have it still.
If you are not yet familiar with guzzidiag do a search here, download the software and buy the lanolec cable BEFORE replacing any electronic components.
Hope you got a good deal on it, be sure to save anything you decide to remove. Those of us that love our Vintage, and may need those bits will appreciate if you list them on the marketplace here on the forum.
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The extra bits that make the CalVin special are rare and or expensive. Expect to pay around $1000 for a replacement side case, I have seen some on eBay not in good condition, and Harpers may also have it still.
If you are not yet familiar with guzzidiag do a search here, download the software and buy the lanolec cable BEFORE replacing any electronic components.
Hope you got a good deal on it, be sure to save anything you decide to remove. Those of us that love our Vintage, and may need those bits will appreciate if you list them on the marketplace here on the forum.
Sounds like I'll be listing my left side case, racks, etc for sale!
Thanks, I think the first think I may dow is pop off the tank and see if the fuel pump looks good to go. I know I've had an aprilia of this vintage and a BMW where the hose between the pump and filter had split open causing them to run horribly. The seller had to do a fair bit of cranking and throttle manipulation to get it started.
I did get a pretty good deal of it and it's in nice shape minus the missing side case.
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Like he said, set the TPS w/a meter on mv then look at the parameters and set sync. The pump is on removable plate and may need a filter, when new they would blow the hose off. Change the air filter while you have tank off, it right there. Drop oil pan to change the filter in bottom & clean it out plus use green thick gaskets both & on valve covers too.
https://guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1100/California1100_Atelier_Compil.pdf
Service manual, the one all the way at bottom is CalVin
You jump out of aircraft?
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Like he said, set the TPS w/a meter on mv then look at the parameters and set sync. The pump is on removable plate and may need a filter, when new they would blow the hose off. Change the air filter while you have tank off, it right there. Drop oil pan to change the filter in bottom & clean it out plus use green thick gaskets both & on valve covers too.
https://guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1100/California1100_Atelier_Compil.pdf
Service manual, the one all the way at bottom is CalVin
You jump out of aircraft?
Thanks! The seller just changed the oil and filter but yea, I'm going to drop the pan since it looks like the gasket is leaking.
I'll see how to adjust the TPS and will look into the cables/guzzidiag.
Right now I'm just going to go out in the garage and clean/polish it while making harley sounds haha.
I BASE jump, paraglide, and speed fly but surprisingly I don't jump out of aircraft. Just off cliffs, bridges, antennas, buildings, mountains.
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I jumped out of aircraft summer of 70 which came to a halt 55yrs ago just the other day, 1st motorcycle accident, hit by a car. Never thought about jumping from the ground.Dad was a pilot flying jumpers.
CalVins are the latest of that model, rest are just a different color. Good luck You'll be surprised they scoot pretty good.
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I jumped out of aircraft summer of 70 which came to a halt 55yrs ago just the other day, 1st motorcycle accident, hit by a car. Never thought about jumping from the ground.Dad was a pilot flying jumpers.
CalVins are the latest of that model, rest are just a different color. Good luck You'll be surprised they scoot pretty good.
Sorry to hear about your motorcycle accident. I've been in one of those before, hit by a land rover. Very thankful for my riding gear and that I saw them turning into me early enough to slow down somewhat/turn with them. I walked away very bruised/sore but without any real injuries. Plus I got a free bike and some cash out of it!
Hopefully this one needs less than the V7 I bought in the spring.
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I must be getting old, or not feeling too good. That sure is a pretty mile-muncher. :thumb:
Too big and heavy for me, alas: a V7 is about my limit.
Good luck with getting it running well.
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I must be getting old, or not feeling too good. That sure is a pretty mile-muncher. :thumb:
Too big and heavy for me, alas: a V7 is about my limit.
Good luck with getting is running well.
Thanks! It's definitely a heavy beast. I've owned some fairly big bikes but this one may be the heaviest besides ones with sidecars. Surprisingly it's pretty easy to move around.
I'll have to see about getting the cables. I have them for another bike but based on pictures only half of what I have is correct (USB to OBDII).
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This should be the cable from USB to OBD. It should fit your CalVin? Look at pic and check your bike cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QBXZHLD/?coliid=I3ANDYZRRU50QX&colid=388FSMB9D1X7D&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
If your USB to OBD has the FTDI chip, then you should be good.
Tom
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This should be the cable from USB to OBD. It should fit your CalVin? Look at pic and check your bike cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QBXZHLD/?coliid=I3ANDYZRRU50QX&colid=388FSMB9D1X7D&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
If your USB to OBD has the FTDI chip, then you should be good.
Tom
Thanks! That looks like the correct one. I'll have to look at my USB to OBDII, it's been awhile but I thought it was VAG-COM KKL. I believe it's correct.
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https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-jpdiag-ducatidiag-tuneecu-kit-kl-1talia-3-pin-connection/
This is the only cable guarantee to work. Not too expensive, not chinesium, not to say others won't work, but likely.
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https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-jpdiag-ducatidiag-tuneecu-kit-kl-1talia-3-pin-connection/
This is the only cable guarantee to work. Not too expensive, not chinesium, not to say others won't work, but likely.
I would be absolutely shocked if they didn't come out of the exact same Chinese factory but I suppose it's possible the Lonelec one is not made in China (highly unlikely though). I may still order that one depending on shipping time/cost.
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Absolutely not made in China...UK, and authentic FTDI chipset
. One of the few. Here is mine:
(https://i.ibb.co/PsstkVzM/IMG-20250906-183250651.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PsstkVzM)
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Absolutely not made in China...UK, and authentic FTDI chipset
. One of the few. Here is mine:
(https://i.ibb.co/PsstkVzM/IMG-20250906-183250651.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PsstkVzM)
Wow, I'm shocked! It's pretty rare to see electronics made anywhere other than China these days.
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Please tell us about the problems you are having with the bike, how it is running. Some Lifter chatter is normal. Missing? Won't idle? Etc.
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Please tell us about the problems you are having with the bike, how it is running. Some Lifter chatter is normal. Missing? Won't idle? Etc.
I haven't tried starting or riding it since picking it up today. The seller listed it as running but that it would run worse the longer it ran. It was a bit difficult for him to get started. He was manipulating the throttle a bunch to try to get it to start/idle and was fiddling with something on the left side, maybe the TPS? He discussed taking ohm readings on the TPS and one or two sensors that he pointed out. It sounds like maybe it would run erratically once it had been running for a bit.
I'll give it a run tomorrow and maybe even try to ride it so I can provide a better description.
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The seller showed me the key release for the seat and said that it's very difficult to get it to work. He wasn't kidding. I can hear the latch making noise but I cannot get it to release the seat. Is there a specific spot to push down on or lift up to relieve pressure on the latch? Is there a way to manually pull on the cable while turning the key? I'd like to charge the battery before I begin diagnosing but I don't see a battery tender lead so the seat needs to come off. Plus I'd like to pull the tank.
Thanks
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About that Lonelec cable: I tried to order one from their website a few weeks ago and got a msg during the ordering routine that they could not ship to my address....sent an e-mail to them asking for explanation, no reply.
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When the key is turned, push down on lever. You don't have to keep turning key it stays. Under the back of seat is a post on fender that pops up into hole under seat. It's about where passenger sits. Often you can pop the back up & then push down the lever by key. The seat latch is on rail right behind battery. The front of seat slides back off tabs by back of bottom of tank.
If you look in owners man or service man it shows you.
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When the key is turned, push down on lever. You don't have to keep turning key it stays. Under the back of seat is a post on fender that pops up into hole under seat. It's about where passenger sits. Often you can pop the back up & then push down the lever by key. The seat latch is on rail right behind battery. The front of seat slides back off tabs by back of bottom of tank.
If you look in owners man or service man it shows you.
Awesome, thanks. I'll check the manual and give it another try.
About that Lonelec cable: I tried to order one from their website a few weeks ago and got a msg during the ordering routine that they could not ship to my address....sent an e-mail to them asking for explanation, no reply.
Thanks, if it won't go to your address, it definitely won't go to mine. I live in the middle of nowhere and often get my address rejected since it's not in the USPS database. Thanks, I'll probably give the cheap cable referenced above a try.
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About that Lonelec cable: I tried to order one from their website a few weeks ago and got a msg during the ordering routine that they could not ship to my address....sent an e-mail to them asking for explanation, no reply.
Probably the US dropping the de minimus tarrif exemption. Maybe the company will take some time to adapt their systems or maybe they won't find it worthwhile to ship only a few items to the US anymore.
Here is the British government's advice to businesses shipping to US:
From 29 August 2025, the United States removed the $800 de minimis threshold for commercial shipments. This change affects the vast majority of UK businesses exporting low-value goods to the United States, including items that were previously exempt from tariffs and duties.
As a result:
Exports to the US that previously qualified for the de minimis are likely to see increased costs due to new tariffs and processing fees.
Carriers now face increased customs declaration requirements, which may cause disruption or delays while systems are updated.
More details from the UK government here:
https://www.business.gov.uk/export-from-uk/markets/united-states/de-minimis-shipments-us/ (https://www.business.gov.uk/export-from-uk/markets/united-states/de-minimis-shipments-us/)
Of course I am assuming you live in the US. You don't say.
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Look on YouTube for janguzzi. He has an excellent video on how to set the tps.
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Just finished a valve adjustment and it could explain the terrible running. Hopefully it's not an indicator of more working being needed.
When the seller started the bike there was a serious metallic tapping/ticking sound (not a knocking) from the top end, I mostly heard it on the left side.
Left valve clearances as measured:
Exhaust: greater than 0.6mm (largest feeler gauge)
Intake: 0.15mm
Set to 0.15mm EX, 0.10 IN
Right valve clearances as measured:
Exhaust: 0.22mm
Intake: greater than 0.6mm (largest feeler gauge)
Set to 0.15mm EX, 0.10mm IN
Normally with a clearance that huge I'd suspect a bent valve but with all of them being out of spec, I'm unsure. Especially since it did run and even idle.
I'm going to rotate the motor over a few times and recheck/confirm but I've adjusted my fair share of valves over the years (first Guzzi valve check).
I used the S mark for the left cylinder confirming piston at TDC and ensuring both valves loose. D mark for right cylinder, piston at TDC with both valves loose.
I would have to think this would certainly cause poor running...
(https://i.ibb.co/93tSBNbK/20250907-124527.jpg) (https://ibb.co/93tSBNbK)
(https://i.ibb.co/JFk9f1PH/20250907-130537.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JFk9f1PH)
(https://i.ibb.co/1fgvczVk/20250907-130602.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1fgvczVk)
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Given what.you have said, I suspect the previous owner of neglecting maintenance and " tinkering" with settings on the throttle bodies.
You are doing great so far, research and do the throttle synchronization before you pull the fuel pump out there are videos too. There are known issues with the fuel line, but if it is running at all probably not the problem.
The seat latch: the key only turns about 1/8 turn, don't force it! Some force is needed pulling up on back of seat, sometimes while holding the key.
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Given what.you have said, I suspect the previous owner of neglecting maintenance and " tinkering" with settings on the throttle bodies.
You are doing great so far, research and do the throttle synchronization before you pull the fuel pump out there are videos too. There are known issues with the fuel line, but if it is running at all probably not the problem.
I won't give the previous owner too much grief, he seemed like an intermediate owner. I believe he bought it in more or less the condition I bought it in and never got it running properly. He did install a new front tire, fresh oil/filter so it seems the bike may be a bit better off in his care. Someone definitely either neglected the valve adjustments or adjusted them seriously wrong. I'm used to valve clearances tightening though so the fact they were all loose is strange to me.
I should have it buttoned back up in the next half hour or so (going to recheck everything multiple times) and then I'll check the TPS.
I'll hold off on the fuel pump. You're probably right, the two prior bikes I had with split lines in the tank basically wouldn't run at all.
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.With a clearance that big from neglect the throttle bodies have been same way & way out of sync which will make it terrible running.
Don't forget to clean out air bleed screws, I seen them gooed up & no air passes.
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You CalVin I believe is the same as my EVT for the throttle bodies and TPS. Here is a very easy to follow tutorial for setting up the TB's from scratch. It IS my reference material.
https://archive.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html
Tom
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I wanted to add....
If all the screws on the TB's have the dab of paint intact and the only ones that don't have the paint is the TPS. You "could" not do the baseline for the TPS (150mv) and just check/adjust the 500-525mv (.500-.525V) and then move on to the basic balance as described.
With this said, the baseline could be out from wear and the like, so it's not a bad idea to set the baseline.
Tom
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You CalVin I believe is the same as my EVT for the throttle bodies and TPS. Here is a very easy to follow tutorial for setting up the TB's from scratch. It IS my reference material.
https://archive.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html
Tom
Thanks! I'm ordering the cable so I can get the throttle bodies synced and the TPS dialed in.
.With a clearance that big from neglect the throttle bodies have been same way & way out of sync which will make it terrible running.
Don't forget to clean out air bleed screws, I seen them gooed up & no air passes.
While I wait for the guzzi diag cable I'll clean the throttle bodies including the air bleed screws.
It seems to idle low around 900rpm currently. With a bit of the enrichment lever or whatever function it serves, it idles perfectly at 1200 and sounds significantly better after the valve adjustment. I think are the TPS/TBS it will be running nicely.
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To set the TPS you only need a multimeter and some wire and some sewing needles or paperclips. Read the link I posted. To balance the TB's, just a single vacuum gauge will do, but two is easier. Again. read the link. Go from complete baseline, or the shortcut I mentioned.
Hope this helps,
Tom
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To set the TPS you only need a multimeter and some wire and some sewing needles or paperclips. Read the link I posted. To balance the TB's, just a single vacuum gauge will do, but two is easier. Again. read the link. Go from complete baseline, or the shortcut I mentioned.
Hope this helps,
Tom
I'll do it tomorrow! Thanks. I have a multimeter and manometers.
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I'm missing the right saddlebag if anyone happens to have one. Otherwise the left one may go up for sale unless there is a reasonable aftermarket option.
Personally, I wouldn't sell that bag and hold out for another one because that bike looks better with the bags and if resell is in the future it will be easier to sell the bike with the bags or even one bag.
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Personally, I wouldn't sell that bag and hold out for another one because that bike looks better with the bags and if resell is in the future it will be easier to sell the bike with the bags or even one bag.
I'll keep it in mind. I may have the option to buy a second bag so we'll see. Before I spend unnecessary money i want to get the running dialed in.
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Set the idle stop screws up to be 1100rpm, airscrews are at 1/2-3/4 both the same, then go up w/both idle stops to 1100rpm. There is a number in mv where it should be somewhat. You can even give it more a baseline up to 165mv, depending on how lean it is.
Then work on the upper range sync, I do 4-5K rpm others do 3K rpm. Have fun
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Set the idle stop screws up to be 1100rpm, airscrews are at 1/2-3/4 both the same, then go up w/both idle stops to 1100rpm. There is a number in mv where it should be somewhat. You can even give it more a baseline up to 165mv, depending on how lean it is.
Then work on the upper range sync, I do 4-5K rpm others do 3K rpm. Have fun
I used the how to that Tom H linked a handful of posts back.
https://archive.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html
I had to go through it twice as I missed the step turning the throttle stop screw back up to 500-525mv somehow.
I got it idling at roughly 1100 and the vacuum gauge was very close.
I think I'm going to call it a success. I also changed the air filter while I was in there. I attempted to check the fuel pump but when I saw how annoying it was going to be to get it out, I tightened it all back up and ignored it haha. I was able to see that the clamps were present and did not see any splits in the hose. Based on how it's running now, I think it's good to go.
I think once I get it buttoned back up it's ready for the maiden voyage.
I really appreciate everyone's help/encouragement. It seems like I might have scored a deal. Still a bit weirded out by how out the valves were but it sounds good after the adjustment.
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Some people don't know the difference between TDC on the intake stroke and they get set on TDC on the exhaust. Or if the flywheel has letters on it they screw that up too. Also people get several feeler gauges stuck together.
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Some people don't know the difference between TDC on the intake stroke and they get set on TDC on the exhaust. Or if the flywheel has letters on it they screw that up too. Also people get several feeler gauges stuck together.
Seems wild to me. They were just so far off unless I somehow messed it up. However it's running a bit too well for me to have been on the wrong stroke so I think I'm good. I think I'll check it again and check the torque on the head bolts after I give it a test ride. I didn't check that while I had the valve covers off.
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Just wanted to add some pictured I took while working on it. Nothing super exciting but a shot of my freshly cleaned airbox, the 150mv reading, 510mv reading, and a shot of the manometer. According to the manometer it should be pulling more vacuum than it does but I have no idea what's normal for one of these bikes. That reading is at idle.
(https://i.ibb.co/DPr2tRZ7/20250908-103648.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DPr2tRZ7)
(https://i.ibb.co/Y4vW3xKF/20250908-122010.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Y4vW3xKF)
(https://i.ibb.co/93VHPKVg/20250908-143656.jpg) (https://ibb.co/93VHPKVg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Xx7w3DVD/20250908-145203.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Xx7w3DVD)
(https://i.ibb.co/DH3BWW2p/20250908-145655.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DH3BWW2p)
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Your vacuum is about what I see at idle.
Tom
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Your vacuum is about what I see at idle.
Tom
Awesome, thanks Tom. Really appreciate all the help.
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FWIW, I have found those Harbor freight units to be horribly inaccurate.
Leave the head bolts alone. They do not need to be re-torqued.
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FWIW, I have found those Harbor freight units to be horribly inaccurate.
Leave the head bolts alone. They do not need to be re-torqued.
Yea, one of these days I probably need to buy a Fluke or at least something better.
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Using the volt meter is the correct way to set TPS. The A/D chip is too low resolution to set it with GuzziDiag. I’ve found GuzziDiag to be of minimal value on my Hydro
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Using the volt meter is the correct way to set TPS. The A/D chip is too low resolution to set it with GuzziDiag. I’ve found GuzziDiag to be of minimal value on my Hydro
Cool, maybe I'll hold off on ordering the cable since the bike appears to be running properly. Just need to take it for a test ride today to confirm. The seller did state it ran worse the longer it ran so maybe I'll come to find that it's not fixed. However I'm optimistic that it is.
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I just went on the first test ride and came back with a to do list, some of them I was aware of, some were identified on the ride.
1) Fairly bad low speed surging/bucking. Also surged a bit at higher speeds but it cruised along between 55 and 65 pretty nicely.
2) Absolutely zero rear brake. Pedal goes right to the floor board
3) Weak front brakes, I assumed this since the fork seals appeared to have been leaking for a long time.
4) Fork seals as mentioned above.
5) Left auxiliary light is out.
6) Clutch lever had zero freeplay - Fixed
So the main concern out of all of these is the surging/bucking at low speeds. To me it seems like either the TPS is still not set quite right or the TPS is bad. I had a TPS go bad on my vstrom years ago and it felt kind of like this. Either that or the mapping is really bad as it's not at all smooth down low.
Overall I'm pretty satisfied with it even with the work left. Not looking forward to the fork seal job but it definitely needs to be done.
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Check for any kinks in fuel line or maybe run it and check for hissing sound when opening gas tank. Meaning run it then stop and check if gas tank lid is hard to pull off.
TPS good place to start for baseline check but would be a surge or stumble if there were any dead spots in the sweep of the TPS.
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Check plug wires and caps.
Maybe even pull the cam sensor check for grit. This will leak if its not already, Clean and reapply some rtv sealent.
Where you located?
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It should read 150mv baseline with the linkage arm off and the screw backed out all the way. If I remember correctly.
There is one screw you should not mess with though.
The idea here is the set that throttle body baseline then with vacuum balance both. I'll have to read through the procedure again, but there are several steps using the idle screws painted in yellow and the air bleeds.
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It should read 150mv baseline with the linkage arm off and the screw backed out all the way. If I remember correctly.
There is one screw you should not mess with though.
The idea here is the set that throttle body baseline then with vacuum balance both. I'll have to read through the procedure again, but there are several steps using the idle screws painted in yellow and the air bleeds.
I've already done the TPS procedure and throttle body sync. The bike did come with one old sensor and one new sensor. I haven't looked at them to see what they are.
I had the tank off, I don't believe the fuel line is kinked. I didn't try running with the fuel cap off, I assume you're wondering if the tank is not venting properly. When I've had that on other bikes it mostly affected higher speed running versus low speed.
I'm in Idaho.
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Well I got the rear brake working a little bit. I need to remove the caliper so I can bleed it properly but it does work somewhat.
Auxiliary light has a burn bulb so that's an easy fix.
Progress.
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The factory fuel mapping was poor back in 07'. Caused hesitation in the low range and in midrange during acceleration, with occasional hiccups. Guzzidiag and cable are necessary to read and reflash the map. There are improved ones available, and can be tailored if you choose to modify your intake or exhaust. I have a "beetle map" for stock setup in my CalVin and it was a definite improvement. I might even be able to give it to you if I find it.
Just did the fork seals on mine this year, was not too bad. The adjustable forks do not require anything special.
Remember that the rear brakes are linked, I have found that overwinter it softens and needs rebleeeding.
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The factory fuel mapping was poor back in 07'. Caused hesitation in the low range and in midrange during acceleration, with occasional hiccups. Guzzidiag and cable are necessary to read and reflash the map. There are improved ones available, and can be tailored if you choose to modify your intake or exhaust. I have a "beetle map" for stock setup in my CalVin and it was a definite improvement. I might even be able to give it to you if I find it.
Just did the fork seals on mine this year, was not too bad. The adjustable forks do not require anything special.
Remember that the rear brakes are linked, I have found that overwinter it softens and needs rebleeeding.
I was reading up on the brake bleeding after I attempted it with my MityVac. I'll give it another go now that I have more information.
I ordered the cable today so hopefully I'll be able to connect to the bike soon. The low speed issue feels like more than just bad mapping. I can't imagine them releasing the map that way. I'd certainly be interested in the upgraded map if you find it though!
I've ordered replacement 35w bulbs for the auxiliary lights and will order fork seals as well.
Thanks
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You might check your throttle cables. If they are too tight, they could cause some jerkiness at low speeds. As mentioned the map could be the issue.
Linked brakes. Pedal is LH front and rear. Hand lever is RH front. Rear caliper, invert so the bleeder is facing up. Use a block of wood or the like between the pads to keep from popping the pistons out. Do the rear first, then the front. Tried the front first and it did not go well, at least when using the pedal to pump with.
Weak front brake. Could be pads. EBC HH or Semi Sintered work great.
Check you plug wires and caps. Caps are 5 K ohms and the coils IIRR are 3K ohms.
Tom
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You might check your throttle cables. If they are too tight, they could cause some jerkiness at low speeds. As mentioned the map could be the issue.
Linked brakes. Pedal is LH front and rear. Hand lever is RH front. Rear caliper, invert so the bleeder is facing up. Use a block of wood or the like between the pads to keep from popping the pistons out. Do the rear first, then the front. Tried the front first and it did not go well, at least when using the pedal to pump with.
Weak front brake. Could be pads. EBC HH or Semi Sintered work great.
Check you plug wires and caps. Caps are 5 K ohms and the coils IIRR are 3K ohms.
Tom
Thanks Tom, I'll get the rear brake inverted to bleed it properly. It makes sense that the front brake is a bit weak since the lever is only doing one caliper. The pedal was doing nothing at all before so essentially I only had 1 out if 3 calipers working at all. The pedal now works a little. I provides some stopping power and then goes soft again once it gets past the firm portion of the travel.
I'll check the caps and wires.
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For integral brake bleed to get all air out, there is a bleeder at highest point on the splitter. Better than older models.
Never seen anything in print from Mfg on what the vacuum is supposed to be at manifolds, just make them equal.
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For integral brake bleed to get all air out, there is a bleeder at highest point on the splitter. Better than older models.
Never seen anything in print from Mfg on what the vacuum is supposed to be at manifolds, just make them equal.
I took the caliper off and inverted it. I also bled the proportioning valve. I now have a nicely working rear break with fresh fluid. Thanks!
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Took it for another spin down the road, I now have working brakes.
I'm tempted to order a TPS, based on the part number, this appears to be the correct one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352802908767
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This one is better quality, comes w/test readout.
https://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c.html
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This one is better quality, comes w/test readout.
https://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c.html
I was considering that one, although I was also considering seeing if I could save 40 bucks haha. I'll have to think it over.
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If I was on a budget, the Fleabay one should be fine from that seller. Steve is listing from a reliable source, but a tad more expensive.
If you want to pull your TPS, you can look at the, Ummm, ramp of the TPS with a voltmeter set on continuity, If you have an oscilloscope, that will give you a much better visual reading of the ramp/progression of the TPS. You do not want any drop outs while advancing the TPS.
OR....just simply buy another one and move forward with it :smiley:
Tom
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I have to think they're probably the same TPS from China but the CA Cyclewerks one probably has an additional QC/QA step by them. Of course I could be wrong.
I'll probably just order one of the two. It probably won't make it run worse!
If I was on a budget, the Fleabay one should be fine from that seller. Steve is listing from a reliable source, but a tad more expensive.
If you want to pull your TPS, you can look at the, Ummm, ramp of the TPS with a voltmeter set on continuity, If you have an oscilloscope, that will give you a much better visual reading of the ramp/progression of the TPS. You do not want any drop outs while advancing the TPS.
OR....just simply buy another one and move forward with it :smiley:
Tom
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If you need a TPS or electrical parts. I'd recommend Cali Cycle Works for better cost and availability.
https://ca-cycleworks.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tps
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I have never bought a TPS. The Ca.cycleworks "supposedly" comes with a printout of the TPS ramp/curve. At least they used to??
Tom
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Diagnosing a bad TPS is just looking for jumpy or inconsistent readings when connected to VM. While rolling the throttle on and off.
It has been recommended to not replace the driving lamps with 35W. Find some LEDs. Your charging system will thank you!
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Diagnosing a bad TPS is just looking for jumpy or inconsistent readings when connected to VM. While rolling the throttle on and off.
It has been recommended to not replace the driving lamps with 35W. Find some LEDs. Your charging system will thank you!
I almost ordered LED bulbs :violent1:
The 35 watt bulbs will go in for now.
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I've already done the TPS procedure and throttle body sync. The bike did come with one old sensor and one new sensor. I haven't looked at them to see what they are.
I had the tank off, I don't believe the fuel line is kinked. I didn't try running with the fuel cap off, I assume you're wondering if the tank is not venting properly. When I've had that on other bikes it mostly affected higher speed running versus low speed.
I'm in Idaho.
Just going by one of your pictures the throttle linkage black plastic is still attached and your reading 150mv. TPS reset needs that to be off and the allen screw backed all the way out. Then you do you baseline TPS MV by loosening the torx screws keep them snug and rotate until 150-165mv is achieved.
Someone correct me if I am wrong. Thats at least the start the rest is a bit fuzzy as I have not changed mine in 7 years.
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Just going by one of your pictures the throttle linkage black plastic is still attached and your reading 150mv. TPS reset needs that to be off and the allen screw backed all the way out. Then you do you baseline TPS MV by loosening the torx screws keep them snug and rotate until 150-165mv is achieved.
Someone correct me if I am wrong. Thats at least the start the rest is a bit fuzzy as I have not changed mine in 7 years.
I detached it and set it to the 150mv reading. I may have taken that picture before I set it correctly. I appreciate you reviewing all of the pictures and noticing that though.
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Just going by one of your pictures the throttle linkage black plastic is still attached and your reading 150mv. TPS reset needs that to be off and the allen screw backed all the way out. Then you do you baseline TPS MV by loosening the torx screws keep them snug and rotate until 150-165mv is achieved.
Someone correct me if I am wrong. Thats at least the start the rest is a bit fuzzy as I have not changed mine in 7 years.
Yes you are correct.
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I detached it and set it to the 150mv reading. I may have taken that picture before I set it correctly. I appreciate you reviewing all of the pictures and noticing that though.
Just one more thing. Its always good practice to make sure theres no gunk in throttle body that may prevent the flap from closing. I would not snap it back into position before setting TS but would make sure its clean and seated. Not sure if this is overkill though.
Last check and it was probably very rare but look for soot in or around the mainfolds. I had a casting void right behind the screw in the aluminum that was sucking in air. Probably driving the prior owner nuts.
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Thanks, I did clean the throttle bodies and the air bleed screws. I'll take a good look at the manifolds. I do seem to recall some discoloration around one of them.
With that said I still think it's likely the TPS causing the bulk of the issue, so I have one en route.
Just one more thing. Its always good practice to make sure theres no gunk in throttle body that may prevent the flap from closing. I would not snap it back into position before setting TS but would make sure its clean and seated. Not sure if this is overkill though.
Last check and it was probably very rare but look for soot in or around the mainfolds. I had a casting void right behind the screw in the aluminum that was sucking in air. Probably driving the prior owner nuts.
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The seller showed me the key release for the seat and said that it's very difficult to get it to work. He wasn't kidding. I can hear the latch making noise but I cannot get it to release the seat. Is there a specific spot to push down on or lift up to relieve pressure on the latch? Is there a way to manually pull on the cable while turning the key? I'd like to charge the battery before I begin diagnosing but I don't see a battery tender lead so the seat needs to come off. Plus I'd like to pull the tank.
Thanks
Take the seat off to see where the catch is, push down there.
I have the same problem with my V7III, a bump down over the catch takes the tension off the cable.
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Take the seat off to see where the catch is, push down there.
I have the same problem with my V7III, a bump down over the catch takes the tension off the cable.
Thanks. It turned out that the seat wasn't even latched. There's a post that comes off the fender that fits into a spring clip. Only that was holding the seat on so I just had to pull up. I actually haven't been able to get the seat to fully latch yet.