Just picked up a poorly running California

[Tom H]

If I was on a budget, the Fleabay one should be fine from that seller. Steve is listing from a reliable source, but a tad more expensive.

If you want to pull your TPS, you can look at the, Ummm, ramp of the TPS with a voltmeter set on continuity, If you have an oscilloscope, that will give you a much better visual reading of the ramp/progression of the TPS. You do not want any drop outs while advancing the TPS.

OR....just simply buy another one and move forward with it 

Tom

[Parashootist]

I have to think they're probably the same TPS from China but the CA Cyclewerks one probably has an additional QC/QA step by them. Of course I could be wrong.

I'll probably just order one of the two. It probably won't make it run worse!

If I was on a budget, the Fleabay one should be fine from that seller. Steve is listing from a reliable source, but a tad more expensive.

If you want to pull your TPS, you can look at the, Ummm, ramp of the TPS with a voltmeter set on continuity, If you have an oscilloscope, that will give you a much better visual reading of the ramp/progression of the TPS. You do not want any drop outs while advancing the TPS.

OR....just simply buy another one and move forward with it 

Tom

[LowRyter]

If you need a TPS or electrical parts. I'd recommend Cali Cycle Works for better cost and availability. 

https://ca-cycleworks.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tps

[Tom H]

I have never bought a TPS. The Ca.cycleworks "supposedly" comes with a printout of the TPS ramp/curve. At least they used to??

Tom

[aklawok]

 Diagnosing a bad TPS is just looking for jumpy or inconsistent readings when connected to VM. While rolling the throttle on and off.
It has been recommended to not replace the driving lamps with 35W. Find some LEDs. Your charging system will thank you!

[Parashootist]

Diagnosing a bad TPS is just looking for jumpy or inconsistent readings when connected to VM. While rolling the throttle on and off.
It has been recommended to not replace the driving lamps with 35W. Find some LEDs. Your charging system will thank you!

I almost ordered LED bulbs 
The 35 watt bulbs will go in for now.

[scra99tch]

I've already done the TPS procedure and throttle body sync. The bike did come with one old sensor and one new sensor. I haven't looked at them to see what they are.

I had the tank off, I don't believe the fuel line is kinked. I didn't try running with the fuel cap off, I assume you're wondering if the tank is not venting properly. When I've had that on other bikes it mostly affected higher speed running versus low speed.

I'm in Idaho.

Just going by one of your pictures the throttle linkage black plastic is still attached and your reading 150mv.  TPS reset needs that to be off and the allen screw backed all the way out.  Then you do you baseline TPS MV by loosening the torx screws keep them snug and rotate until 150-165mv is achieved.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.  Thats at least the start the rest is a bit fuzzy as I have not changed mine in 7 years.

[Parashootist]

Just going by one of your pictures the throttle linkage black plastic is still attached and your reading 150mv.  TPS reset needs that to be off and the allen screw backed all the way out.  Then you do you baseline TPS MV by loosening the torx screws keep them snug and rotate until 150-165mv is achieved.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.  Thats at least the start the rest is a bit fuzzy as I have not changed mine in 7 years.

I detached it and set it to the 150mv reading. I may have taken that picture before I set it correctly. I appreciate you reviewing all of the pictures and noticing that though.

[antmanbee]

Just going by one of your pictures the throttle linkage black plastic is still attached and your reading 150mv.  TPS reset needs that to be off and the allen screw backed all the way out.  Then you do you baseline TPS MV by loosening the torx screws keep them snug and rotate until 150-165mv is achieved.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.  Thats at least the start the rest is a bit fuzzy as I have not changed mine in 7 years.

Yes you are correct.

[scra99tch]

I detached it and set it to the 150mv reading. I may have taken that picture before I set it correctly. I appreciate you reviewing all of the pictures and noticing that though.

Just one more thing.  Its always good practice to make sure theres no gunk in throttle body that may prevent the flap from closing.  I would not snap it back into position before setting TS but would make sure its clean and seated.  Not sure if this is overkill though. 

Last check and it was probably very rare but look for soot in or around the mainfolds.  I had a casting void right behind the screw in the aluminum that was sucking in air.  Probably driving the prior owner nuts.

[Parashootist]

Thanks, I did clean the throttle bodies and the air bleed screws. I'll take a good look at the manifolds. I do seem to recall some discoloration around one of them.

With that said I still think it's likely the TPS causing the bulk of the issue, so I have one en route.

Just one more thing.  Its always good practice to make sure theres no gunk in throttle body that may prevent the flap from closing.  I would not snap it back into position before setting TS but would make sure its clean and seated.  Not sure if this is overkill though. 

Last check and it was probably very rare but look for soot in or around the mainfolds.  I had a casting void right behind the screw in the aluminum that was sucking in air.  Probably driving the prior owner nuts.

[Kiwi_Roy]

The seller showed me the key release for the seat and said that it's very difficult to get it to work. He wasn't kidding. I can hear the latch making noise but I cannot get it to release the seat. Is there a specific spot to push down on or lift up to relieve pressure on the latch? Is there a way to manually pull on the cable while turning the key? I'd like to charge the battery before I begin diagnosing but I don't see a battery tender lead so the seat needs to come off. Plus I'd like to pull the tank.

Thanks

Take the seat off to see where the catch is, push down there.
I have the same problem with my V7III, a bump down over the catch takes the tension off the cable.

[Parashootist]

Take the seat off to see where the catch is, push down there.
I have the same problem with my V7III, a bump down over the catch takes the tension off the cable.

Thanks. It turned out that the seat wasn't even latched. There's a post that comes off the fender that fits into a spring clip. Only that was holding the seat on so I just had to pull up. I actually haven't been able to get the seat to fully latch yet.