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If I was on a budget, the Fleabay one should be fine from that seller. Steve is listing from a reliable source, but a tad more expensive.If you want to pull your TPS, you can look at the, Ummm, ramp of the TPS with a voltmeter set on continuity, If you have an oscilloscope, that will give you a much better visual reading of the ramp/progression of the TPS. You do not want any drop outs while advancing the TPS.OR....just simply buy another one and move forward with it Tom
Diagnosing a bad TPS is just looking for jumpy or inconsistent readings when connected to VM. While rolling the throttle on and off.It has been recommended to not replace the driving lamps with 35W. Find some LEDs. Your charging system will thank you!
I've already done the TPS procedure and throttle body sync. The bike did come with one old sensor and one new sensor. I haven't looked at them to see what they are. I had the tank off, I don't believe the fuel line is kinked. I didn't try running with the fuel cap off, I assume you're wondering if the tank is not venting properly. When I've had that on other bikes it mostly affected higher speed running versus low speed.I'm in Idaho.
Just going by one of your pictures the throttle linkage black plastic is still attached and your reading 150mv. TPS reset needs that to be off and the allen screw backed all the way out. Then you do you baseline TPS MV by loosening the torx screws keep them snug and rotate until 150-165mv is achieved.Someone correct me if I am wrong. Thats at least the start the rest is a bit fuzzy as I have not changed mine in 7 years.
I detached it and set it to the 150mv reading. I may have taken that picture before I set it correctly. I appreciate you reviewing all of the pictures and noticing that though.
Just one more thing. Its always good practice to make sure theres no gunk in throttle body that may prevent the flap from closing. I would not snap it back into position before setting TS but would make sure its clean and seated. Not sure if this is overkill though. Last check and it was probably very rare but look for soot in or around the mainfolds. I had a casting void right behind the screw in the aluminum that was sucking in air. Probably driving the prior owner nuts.
The seller showed me the key release for the seat and said that it's very difficult to get it to work. He wasn't kidding. I can hear the latch making noise but I cannot get it to release the seat. Is there a specific spot to push down on or lift up to relieve pressure on the latch? Is there a way to manually pull on the cable while turning the key? I'd like to charge the battery before I begin diagnosing but I don't see a battery tender lead so the seat needs to come off. Plus I'd like to pull the tank.Thanks
Take the seat off to see where the catch is, push down there.I have the same problem with my V7III, a bump down over the catch takes the tension off the cable.
Before breaking out the tools and gauges did you try fresh fuel to see if that made a difference in how the bike ran. More often than not its the simple things but there is no glory in that. Most people we what to rush in throw a bunch of parts at the problem without even trying to diagnose and/or isolate the problem. Its a very costly and ineffective way to go about it.
The fuel in it smells and looks good. I'm also now the third person that has owned the bike while it has had this poor running issue. It doesn't run like the fuel is bad, it runs like it has an electrical issue.I'm all for cheap/easy fixes but sadly fresh fuel isn't the fix here.
Not saying its the fix but fresh fuel rules it either in or out as an issue. The 1st step in the systematic approach is usually a baby step but important step none the less.
