Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: theoneandonlymin on October 12, 2025, 03:06:01 PM
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I've done a quick search here but not found anything.
Just looking at my NorgeGT with view to replacing the clutch. It's at 65000 miles and making a lot of noise. I'd rather get in there for a look/ replacement after a close call with my Stelvio where a spring was making an escape and rubbing on the gearbox.
So, having done the Stelvio it looks easier to remove and replace the engine/ gearbox.
What pitfalls will I encounter ?
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvjjqPPL/20251012-194834.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94jmbMpC)
Cheers
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Pretty much just like Stelvio cept airbox is on top not behind. Still has to come completely out.
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OK thanks, the Stelvio had 3 seized lower bolts into the engine. Which had to be drilled out. Doesn't appear to be similar attachments on NorgeGT.
Here's my close encounter of the Stelvio clutch...
(https://i.postimg.cc/X7xTjgP9/20240220-111319.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bMtZ7PN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPMHD0Yd/20240220-111337.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLkWnGws)
Cheers
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Ugh, this doesn't look like a fun job but could you post as much as you can during this project? I have about that many miles on my Norge so it maybe something I'd have to face some day. Thanks and good luck.
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Fun, ha, it's always fun.
Sometimes a challenge.
At least I've had a recent wee bit of practice. The A frame is still in place.
Read this....
https://www.guzziriders.org/stelvio-no-starty_topic15376.html
Cheer.
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Ugh, this doesn't look like a fun job but could you post as much as you can during this project? I have about that many miles on my Norge so it maybe something I'd have to face some day. Thanks and good luck.
What he said. I'd love a write-up on this
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There may be a guide photo thing over on the Griso Ghetto but that would be a Griso.
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So I've done a wee bit more today, I've had it apart this far before so it was relatively straight forward.
I generally take photos to remind me where everything sits when it comes to the 1000 piece jigsaw.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TwwHzmTP/20251014-152549.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqcTfJYd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4ddFDtXd/20251014-152610.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsyk7Xjb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zBBPsWqv/20251014-154039.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8rgDjLf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3RRbsp38/20251014-154714.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sBkcSMBq)
See y'all in a few weeks as I'm heading off.
Cheers
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Here's the latest update.
Removed the throttle complete from the heads which looked the simplest way. Plenty of space.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qv9TxcYy/20251025-135431.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKqFRbT3)
Put it up on the engine stand which allowed me to remove centre stand and exhaust.
Next trauma from experience was going to be the side stand bolts, one in the crankcase and the other in the gearbox. These were a nightmare on my Stelvio. But cracked off ezpz.
(https://i.postimg.cc/85mCbxwy/20251026-195029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RzVm86T)
(https://i.postimg.cc/y8wHyh5r/IMG-20251027-WA0001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xXyh0m9K)
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So here y'all are, another exciting instalment from the bench.
I'd previously replaced/ serviced the linkage last year when I bought it and knew the swinging arm bearings would be like this.
Also I'd be doing my clutch so left them.
I've an A frame in my workshop from previously working on my Stelvio.
So basically get the bench up high, engine on stand , ratchet strap the frame to the A frame, loosen the remaining 3 bolts.
Lower the engine on stand/ lower bench with the engine on it.
Give the frame a bit of a wiggle and it's out.
Gearbox off this afternoon to see what is what.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jjD2cP3s/20251028-172410.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06q92Mq3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HLrnzXv7/20251028-174826.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d7KJtkYq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k52GsKYS/20251029-143335.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06q92Ms5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tgsJkWvZ/20251029-144432.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKymvk2x)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0SQVysD/20251030-161814.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpBLvKh1)
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So here I am a bit further along.
Photos show what I've done and where I'm at...
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCDK0DmQ/20251106-121446.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJtHHRgN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZp5hpnP/20251106-122704.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75zQQV97)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5stnsyM/20251106-123722.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJtHHRgq)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkvDnv7N/20251107-121306.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JsXddqx3)
So as you can see I've a few leaks.crank seal will be peplace.
Tensioner o ring.
Idler (?) Shaft cover O ring.
How does the cover come up?
Loosen the cover with a soft drift then lever/wiggle up from one end at a time. Thanks Pete.
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There should be 2 threaded holes in the rear bearing plate (under the retaining bolts) . If it's anything like the newer 1400's , that cover is actually glued onto the engine cases .
I would seriously heat the engine cases and place ice cubes on the cover before using the 2 threaded bolts to try and loosen the cover . I ended up threading the other bearing cover holes,
they were the right size for a 5/16" or 3/8" coarse tap . I made steel plugs to go in the holes that were level with the engine case ( to prevent the extra bolts used for pulling the cover from damaging the threaded engine cases . It was a real PITA . Good Luck , Peter
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I'm only talking about the idler shaft , Moto Guzzi, cover. Thank goodness
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So, it came up with a bit of careful levering, the oring and the oring of the tensioner cap were brittle.
Easily enough replaced (The dowty washers seals on the oil lines were also brittle)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4fpfnnP/20251123-144808.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0MKnN1MV)
The cap is playing hard to replace due to the shaft being lifted by the chain tensioner.
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Onwards again now the decorating is over...
Replacement clutch from Stein Dinse at 15% discount.
Swapped out the rubbish allen bolts for hex heads.
Cam cap went back in with a bit of gentle levering.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wjb0fNDF/20251210-111424.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZkxdsC2)
Upside down to replace both gaskets.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sg0w6W50/20251210-142105.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrXwjVZQ)
Not corrosion just gasket "gum"
(https://i.postimg.cc/sg0w6W5L/20251210-142902.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmzfypGQ)
There's been pages about the spacer gasket. I ordered a GU01003651 from Fowlers but already had a green one for my V1000G5. One thou difference in favour of the green. But it feels like cardboard whereas the Guzzi part feels tougher/ nicer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8CJwqCbb/20251211-101607.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBDp7hwB)
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Thanks for doing this and documenting it. I hope to NEVER have to do this to any of my CARC bikes, but I'm learning as I watch along.
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Thanks for posting / documenting all your efforts. I too am hoping I never have to do this. It looks a lot more involved than crabbing the frame on the Californias to replace clutch plates. Certainly more than a dozen beers.
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Thanks for doing this and documenting it. I hope to NEVER have to do this to any of my CARC bikes, but I'm learning as I watch along.
From both Stelvio and Norge, once the clutch starts to get noisy it is time.
Really it appears a huge job but it isn't. I'm not a mechanic, just an idiot with time to spare.
I got my confidence from reading posts on Stelvio thread on ADV. So much help is available here and on ADV, thanks Pete, to make things go smoothly. ish 😀
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Yes indeed, frame crabbing is a doddle. Can get to my G5's clutch in under two hours.
So, have done a few more hours this week. Quite a bit of time, well way too much time, is spent researching where to get small items from.
Square orings for the clutch slave for instance. Went for round after advice.
Dowty washers. Well, mine had perished and you end up going down a rabbit hole of suppliers. HEL seemed reputable enough so ordered from there.
The fibre gaskets for the exhaust. Possibly the Kawasaki fitment but Athena seem to do a range. That was last night's search unfortunately I hadn't measured my pipes before coming inside.
Exhaust studs were cheap enough from Guzzi.
Yesterday I gathered all my powdercoated parts up, ran a tap through the threads and realigned them with their bolts, springs washers etc.
So, I've a couple of days partying ahead and as soon as the Dowtys arrive I'll be throwing the engine back into the frame.
All is looking good on the bench.
Oh yeah, did you ever pay attention to the exhaust cylinder head clamp ? That is such a nice casting. Barly noticeable once the plastic is on.
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My experience with the gaskets is that the old green ones are far superior to the more recent black ones.I wrongly assumed the reverse and used black throughout a rebuild , was plagued with seepage all over and then replaced successfully with the greens.Pete Roper and others confirmed that they had similar results too....
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Another afternoon spent piecing it together. Then taking it apart. Then bolting it back up again
. If you've done it you'll know, if you don't, the collector box is the first part of the jigsaw. Not the centre stand.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmxB4CPR/20251230-191402.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBrrNgwz)
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Great…!
I’ll use this as the definitive document if I ever have to do mine… :bow: :thumb:
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Another afternoon spent piecing it together. Then taking it apart. Then bolting it back up again
. If you've done it you'll know, if you don't, the collector box is the first part of the jigsaw. Not the centre stand.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmxB4CPR/20251230-191402.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBrrNgwz)
NFN, if you have it apart and havent put in the CAT eliminator, now is a great time. It is a bear to get in and out, but if it's apart, is much easier. Improves engine flow, quicker to rev, a little louder, and much less heat down by your feet. You can get it from:
AF1 Racing https://www.af1racing.com/AMCOMPNORGE8V-Agostini-Compensator-Eliminator-For-MG-Norge-8V
MG Cycle https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26_95&products_id=5839
Guzzi Tech may have it as well. A new map will be beneficial, but if you run the stock exhaust, you can get away without it. But Guzzi Diag and a Beetle Map are around $100.
Project looks great! Thanks for keeping us updated.
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I get the impression this is a 1st gen Norge.
Those links seem to be for an 8V Norge.
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No, it's a 2011 8V GT.
I'll be keeping the collector box as I've just bought a 2nd hand one as the original had rotted in a few places and something was loose inside.
Mr Roper suggests not messing with the exhaust as they run better standard.
I've a Beetle mapped 08 Stelvio with GPR silencer. Which runs pretty smooth and fast.
The NorgeGT is comparable in feel and pickup and 50+ imperisl mpg. So it may have a map.
Makes speed in a stealthy kind of way.
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From both Stelvio and Norge, once the clutch starts to get noisy it is time
What type of noise Min ?. I'm riding an 09 Griso 8V 45K miles and the clutch has been noisy on that for ages - but only when I pull the clutch in and coast a bit, sounds like a mild clacking noise & I always thought it could be idler shaft or (similar to your Stelvio) could be bits of spring etc hitting casing.
I feel like it's just a matter of time before I need investigate (which means a new clutch plate anyway while I'm in there). Paul
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Hard to describe the noise. But I will.
The Stelvio's clutch was always pretty loud. " it's a dry clutch they all sound like that" , so I rode on. It was sounding like grating at the end. If I hadn't had to remove the engine it would have eventually exploded. The springs were rubbing on the bell housing.
So after a 300 mile ride on the NorgeGT I arrived home after a bit of North London traffic. I quite often take my earplugs out and a listen to the bike before I stop it. It was noisy in a rattling way. Clutch in, everything is quiet. Out and rattling away.
As I have my Stelvio with new clutch I have a comparison.
I've other bikes to ride and plenty of time I decided to throw a clutch at it.
NorgeGT had 65000 miles and Stelvio 75 but probably sounded rough from 60.
I know the Stelvio had had a lot of traffic work since I bought it with 45k.
So my guesstimate is at 60000 miles the springs are starting to get loose.
The friction surface was getting pretty skinny on the NorgeGT.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Q1kpw2T/20251106-122020.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MnMtZTvK)
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The little tangs that go in the end of those springs wears off and they come out to screw it all up between clutch & trans front casting. Then the springs get stuck on the webbing on the trans casting & grind away.
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I quite often take my earplugs out and a listen to the bike before I stop it. It was noisy in a rattling way. Clutch in, everything is quiet. Out and rattling away.
When I pull the clutch lever on my Norge I hear rattling.
It's quiet when I let go the lever.
Is that what you mean by in/out? In means you let go of the lever?
I read somewhere that the rattling is normal when the lever is pulled.
The plates are free and vibrate against each other.
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The springs are nothing to do with the lever in or out. But was quieter with the lever in.
The 1200 8v engines have a single plate.
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When I pull the clutch lever on my Norge I hear rattling.
It's quiet when I let go the lever.
Is that what you mean by in/out? In means you let go of the lever?
I read somewhere that the rattling is normal when the lever is pulled.
The plates are free and vibrate against each other.
This is true for a 2V Norge w/2 clutch plates, a 4V has a different set up as shown.
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My 2 valve 07 Norge most definitely rattles with clutch pulled in when cold. Don't notice it when warm. Glad to hear that's somewhat normal
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It's still a bit Baltic ( under 4C) out in my unheated workshop as I reckon it would cause condensation.
I'm not going to heat it just wear plenty of layers. Which means I don't stay too long.
Recieved my Mikalor exhaust clamps today so dry fitted the exhaust. The collector box on these are pretty big and the centre stand sits tight when deployed. Couple of hoses / wires to line up next. Before the rear end goes in. Which I was going to do last week but was even colder and need to be out there for longer.
Had a ride out around N. London on V1000G5 as the overnight rain had washed most of the road salt away and our street wasn't icy.
(https://i.postimg.cc/J0gdPPRD/20260109-153607.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wdpfPRC)
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A wee bit further on this morning.
Everything greased up nicely.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Sxy1qbr9/20260112-115045.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zVcFSM4D)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZXsZpsq/20260112-142620.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWJQPdzz)
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My 2 valve 07 Norge most definitely rattles with clutch pulled in when cold. Don't notice it when warm. Glad to hear that's somewhat normal
You haven't lived until you hear the ring ring ring of the dual plate clutch on the 4V 1100 Griso......
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Heading in the right direction, getting back into semi familiar territory.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FsyKyXcm/20260113-161049.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRYFbVJs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZK8q8z34/20260113-161122.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QHMsDP0y)
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Popped the front wheel in so now it's off the engine stand and on the main stand. No longer attached to the scaffolding frame and down a notch on the bench height. Think today I'll get the throttle bodies on and start tying in the loose wiring and hoses.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sfw4J36r/20260117-170753.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23LWkNNc)
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Good day's work today.
Throttle bodies, starter and associated cables wiring and hoses back to where they were.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1tXYqvSC/20260118-161744.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47C5CbmV)
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A few more steps further on, just wee jobs and starting to relocate some cabling and some plastic.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GpJ5ZSSC/20260129-143509.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLJyDKj3)
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When I pull the clutch lever on my Norge I hear rattling.
It's quiet when I let go the lever.
Is that what you mean by in/out? In means you let go of the lever?
I read somewhere that the rattling is normal when the lever is pulled.
The plates are free and vibrate against each other.
That's the way my dual plate clutch in the GRiSO 1100 sounds. It's a rattle/ring sound. My 1200 Sport (70K+ miles 2008 4V) is also dual plate (I believe) but does not make the same noise. My 8V Norge (52K miles 2012) is single plate and is quiet when lever is pulled, and has a chuck chuck noise when released. I've noticed it is worse if the TBs are not well sync'd.
The V7ii Stornello is a whole other story. The pilot bearing squalls occasionally, clucks when lever is released, and chucks when pulled. I generally shift clutchlessly up and down 3-6. The Breva 750 has so much gear whine from the engine and transmission, I can't hear the clutch :evil: But in fairness, I've only ridden it maybe 500 miles. It is a beautiful soulful little bike, but is too small and underpowered for my likes so it rarely gets ridden.
When I bought my Griso from Dave Richardson, he gave me some sage advice. He said "Guzzi's make weird noises.... and are faintly agricultural...... no two are the same..... If your Guzzi is making weird noises, all is well. You need to start worrying if it is quiet and smooth like a Japanese bike" He said this as I started the GRiSO for the first time, and just after I pulled in the clutch and quickly released when I heard the racket of the dual plate clutch.....
This was SAGE advice.... It has helped me overcome my obsession with eliminating odd noises, keeps me sane, and to embrace each Guzzi as its own, and to accept and incorporate the 'odd' sounds into the personality of each bike. I Do pay attention when the odd noises change, get worse, or better.
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Sorry folks I've been doing other stuff.
Anyway, threw in an extra cable this morning from alternator straight to the battery. Time for the airbox to go in and we're nearly ready to roll.
Well, I'll have to wait for my replacement inlet rubber to arrive from Stein in Germany.
(https://i.postimg.cc/23pRBDyY/20260315-124325.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q6GZ9W2D)
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Rubber arrived, as it has warmed up here in Norf London the rubbers were nice and soft so the airbox floated in nicely.
Tank on, 5 litres of fuel and after a few start attempts the fuel got through and we have action.
Few jobs to finish off and aim to be on the road 1st April. Not going to pay a month's road tax for the last few days of March.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rstQDp6w/20260321-162619.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRMSbMFB)
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So I had to wait until the engine was running to check my lights.
Both dip earths and wires had signs of a previous owner.
Damn, it's a long way back into the fairing to do anything but repair the previous work.
There's not a lot of extra wire to play with.
In the top photo y'all will see the terminal is missing and has been replaced with a terminal/ earth on the bulb retaining clip.
It was quite a fiddly wee job but got there eventually.
(https://i.postimg.cc/VLYdtdpj/20260322-155956.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDxsPtq1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYVkRkt0/20260322-160932.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3Wc85JKw)
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So, we're rocking again.
First ride out ABS light came on, hmmmm, then speedo stopped, ah, must be the wheel sensor.Then it started running really bad. Luckily I wasn't far from home.
Quick Internet search...loose battery terminals or not charging.
Sure enough it wasn't charging.
Replaced headlight fuse as it was/ wasn't consistent. As if it was broken not fused.
Cleaned up the rest of the fuses and we're back in business.
50 mile test ride this morning and all is well.
Thanks for all your love.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bv27y8DY/20260402-142424.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HNmQ2sL)