Wildguzzi.com
General Category => Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only => Topic started by: cmice on November 26, 2025, 07:42:40 PM
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Hey all - just got myself into a "barn find"/"ran when parked" project. Last registered in 1985, last operated in 1991. Apparently a stuck clutch is what took it off the road. P.O. did a favor and drained all the fluids, fogged the cylinders, and stored it inside - so far, all the fasteners are coming out without too much of a fight.
Bike is pretty much all there, with the exception of the H-pipe and mufflers. I'm not sure the Wixom fairing is going to stay or not, but it is growing on me. Is a non-filter model, so that's fun.
Other things to fix are: broken steering stop, scored forks, bent crash-bar, and tired rubber (including tires). If there's anything else you spot from the photos, do let me know.
I'll post my first question to the collective under this post.
Next up is to pull the heads as they are chrome bores and I'm pretty sure they're up to no good.
(https://i.ibb.co/zWFJZKv5/9a46f3d8-8bf8-454e-93f9-4acd4ed2fab4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zWFJZKv5) (https://i.ibb.co/Z6yPQrsT/PXL-20251122-183344637.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Z6yPQrsT) (https://i.ibb.co/0VVzb8KZ/PXL-20251119-211619800.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0VVzb8KZ) (https://i.ibb.co/XrwmgCHt/PXL-20251102-213958045.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XrwmgCHt) (https://i.ibb.co/wFwDnMyG/PXL-20251102-213954671.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wFwDnMyG) (https://i.ibb.co/pBj46N68/PXL-20251102-213612423.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pBj46N68) (https://i.ibb.co/ccSytY6z/PXL-20251122-183745815.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ccSytY6z)
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Pulled the flywheel cover out, and the ring gear has seen some action. What do you suppose caused this? Inside of the bell housing is unmarred, so I think the thrust-bearing/end-play is ok. Looks like maybe the starter hit the ring gear while the engine was running and spun against it for a bit?
Use it, or bin-it? Whaddayathink?
(https://i.ibb.co/pvm45tdh/PXL-20251126-193448198.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pvm45tdh)
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If the steering stop is broken off and the crashbars are bent, then I would check very carefully to make sure the frame isn't tweaked. Those are both good indicators that there is frame damage. I have three Tonti frames here that wobble side-to-side on a flat surface.
With only 23k miles in 50 years the chrome is going to flake from the cylinder bores if you run them. Sitting around is the worst thing for them. IMO, there is not such thing as "good chrome bores" - it's not "if" they will flake, it's "when". Replace them now before they destroy the engine.
The ring gear damage likely happened from a tankbag or something else accidentally hitting the starter button. It will probably work okay as-is, but a replacement wouldn't be a bad idea.
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Today's update - figured I'll pull the conrod caps off and see what it looks like there as a quick assessment of how he's been treated. Mixed news. The bearing shells look distressed but the crank journal looks great - at least on the center web anyway. But the distressed shells mean the crank should come out and get checked, along with the front and rear mains. Off comes the front cover.
By the look of the incorrectly folded folding-locks and the boogered up stake-nut on the crank-drive sprocket, someone has been in here before and without the right tools. So here's hoping whoever it was treaded lightly. Some additional good news is no stripped threads or helicoils anywhere - so that's a bonus.
Rubber finger tensioner was tensioning air - so chain and chain tensioner are in order. The flywheel was incorrectly indexed to the crank for some reason, so that's going to need some additional investigation when it comes time to time-everything-up again.
So, let's pull the cylinders off and see what we're dealing with. And, whelp, I'd already budgeted to change the cylinders and pistons out, so this isn't a shocker - but chrome has left the building.
(https://i.ibb.co/gM33t7rf/PXL-20251129-193606736.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gM33t7rf)(https://i.ibb.co/v6DfCgVB/PXL-20251129-193629031.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v6DfCgVB)(https://i.ibb.co/jvZJdrm9/PXL-20251130-005644982.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jvZJdrm9)
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Ok - today's update. Made a rear main bearing puller - worked like a charm. Here, again, mixed news. First, the crank looks great so that's a relief. The rear main bearing looks "ok" and I would probably run this, but curious what others think. Unfortunately, front main doesn't look as good and I think he's a goner. Again, what do calibrated eyes think here?
(https://i.ibb.co/4RxrxBdY/PXL-20251130-192222482.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4RxrxBdY)(https://i.ibb.co/zqgrMh3/PXL-20251130-192228746.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zqgrMh3)(https://i.ibb.co/TDRm5mWT/PXL-20251130-193206468.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TDRm5mWT)(https://i.ibb.co/vxTkhbcL/PXL-20251130-193214251.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vxTkhbcL)(https://i.ibb.co/Xf1myghq/PXL-20251130-193109311.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Xf1myghq)(https://i.ibb.co/fGKBbS5s/PXL-20251130-193116275.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fGKBbS5s)
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"Looks" are one thing, the micrometer tells the tale...
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Ok boys and girls, always remember to clean out your crank.
(https://i.ibb.co/xq34rpyB/PXL-20251201-233026212.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xq34rpyB)
A sort of rubberized slug of chrome dust and who knows what else came out - almost in one piece, but it broke apart into lots of chunks when I tried to extract it.
The bung plug was in only finger-tight, despite being "staked" and came out with only a faintest hint of thread damage (just at the very top where the stakes are). So he's going back in, but sealed and sent home properly this time.
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This is from a '71 Ambassador with 98k miles on it.
(https://i.ibb.co/hR6p7XCk/Chuck-s-Ambo-Simon-s-Le-Mans-CX1100-002.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hR6p7XCk)
(https://i.ibb.co/TDnYpGHv/Chuck-s-Ambo-Simon-s-Le-Mans-CX1100-004.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TDnYpGHv)
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While it seemed I've gone quiet, I've been doing quite a bit of work behind the scenes. With the motor completely apart to assess the bearings, it was time to start building the shopping list...and that covered a lot of ground....
First-up was the re-plate vs. buy-new decision on the cylinders since my chrome has definitely failed and bare aluminum was showing, plus the bearing damage as a result. I followed Charlie's math to look at re-plate vs. new, and indeed, buying new pencils out to the best eventual outcome. I checked with the two usual places for re-plating, and one would come in about $100 cheaper than buying new (still no pistons or rings), the other would come in at $20 more expensive than buying new (with no pistons or rings). Plus shipping back and forth, when you add up all the nickels, buying new sets gets you the most bang for the buck. In the end, I flipped for 83mm Gilardonis which included pistons, pins, piston rings, and head gaskets. Existing con-rods will be re-used; question as to whether the small-end bushings need to be mic'ed and reamed to size for the new pins, or close-enough and just run it? Do the rings need to be gapped or do they come pre-gapped? (I'll check them regardless)
Speaking of conrods, that leads us to the great bearing replacement. The chrome seemed to have done a number on the conrod big-end bearings and the front main bearing. The rear main looks fine, and the journals all mic out to standard size and look great. The rocker pins also look fine, as did the cam jounrals. The cam bearings looked not great, so a *very* gentle touch-up with 1000 grit cleaned them up - called it close enough, we'll leave them alone. Can these ever be replaced? Seems like if you could find plain bearings the right size, a line boring machine would make this not too bad a job.
Ok, back to the update - given we're replacing the front main, that leads us to the topic of adding an oil filter. The newer-style (with filter) front main bearing is cheaper and more available than the non-filter one; plus by adding a filter, we should be protecting all these expensive parts so this won't have to be done again by me or the next owner. So new-style front main, plus a filter-in-pan off of Ebay, all that's left is the machining. I didn't take a lot of photos, but there's a great writeup of the process here for those considering the change:
https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/moto-guzzi-early-big-twin-oil-filter-conversion.257513/
Just finished the machining today. Hardest part, as others have found, is 1) having a 8mm drill long enough to do the deep oil passage (200mm will do it), and 2) the fixturing to hold the housing square with all the studs still in, and 3) having a machine tool with enough throat to hold this massive stack of parts plus extra-long drill (hint: the Bridgeport wouldn't accommodate just the housing with studs, let alone a Jacobs chuck and long drill).
Thankfully a friend has a habit of collecting old machine tools, including a 3-phase Rockwell gear-drive drill press - plenty of throat, nice and square and solid so nothing wiggles around while the quill spans a massive distance. Little spooky working on that thing because if it snags on anything it will take your arm off. All that's left is to fab the blanking plate for the old pickup, and then we can start putting the motor back together.
Lastly, earlier I'd posted a photo of the starter ring-gear and asked about how this could happen and whether to run it or not. While I was browsing on eBay for a filter-in-pan sump, I found a listing for an "EV" flywheel and cover for cheap. This alleged EV flywheel looked like a single-plate unit (which is junk) but figured what the hell - grab the assembly and if all I keep is the cover and ring-gear then great. It showed up - and to my delight, it is completely unused and is not a EV flywheel at all, but a good-old multi-plate flywheel. As an added bonus, the scale says the flywheel weighs in at 7.2lbs instead of the stock 9.2lbs(!) - so I guess I scored a lightweight LeMans flywheel by accident! Gonna run that mofo for sure. :)
Next update should be about putting the motor back together - plus a fun side-quest in 3d-printing.
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Existing con-rods will be re-used; question as to whether the small-end bushings need to be mic'ed and reamed to size for the new pins, or close-enough and just run it? Do the rings need to be gapped or do they come pre-gapped? (I'll check them regardless)
Yes, do check small-end bushing i.d. and compare that with the specs in the factory manual. The new pins will be the same o.d. as the originals.
The rings are supposed to be "pre-gapped" but it doesn't hurt to check them.
There have been reports of a few of this latest batch of Gilardonis not fitting into the crankcase - the "spigot" of the cylinder wasn't properly machined and is too large to fit. Check this before you begin assembly.
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A little overkill perhaps, but CNC cut the blanking-plate for the original screened oil-pickup (ie. non-filtered flow), and installed. I added nylocs on the back side just for safety, and we'll see if there's room once the crank is installed...I think there will be no problem. Now that all the machining on the block is done, and it is clean, we can start building it up again.
(https://i.ibb.co/wZJSxjxH/PXL-20251213-183605987.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wZJSxjxH)(https://i.ibb.co/1f3nd3CF/PXL-20251213-213409063.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1f3nd3CF)(https://i.ibb.co/KpGPnWNG/PXL-20251213-215547852.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KpGPnWNG)
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Short update for today. Rear main lip-seal changed, and the rear main bearing is in the freezer waiting for the "big day" when the crank goes back in.
In cleaning up the rear main bearing, I forgot that there was still the old gasket stuck to it. I don't know when whoever was in here was in here, but they used some sort of gasket sealant that got super hard and really stubborn over the last 30 odd years (can't be 50, surely). Anyway, spent some quality time with a steamer with a brass-bristle brush attachment, and the almighty razor blade, and those stubborn things finally relented and came off nicely. New gaskets will get hylomar - doesn't harden, cleans up easily, love that stuff.
New rear main lip seal went in with only oil - no sealant. Old seal had I think shellac type sealant, and was a bear to get out.
Some arbitrary engine shots.
(https://i.ibb.co/HTSkzkZM/PXL-20251214-214423733.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HTSkzkZM)(https://i.ibb.co/mFthypYJ/PXL-20251214-214444147.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mFthypYJ)
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Update from last post - freezing the rear-main is the bees' knees. Dropped right in without a fuss. Lip seal was a little stiff to get over the end of the crank, but gentle coaxing with non-sharp things got it to slip over and it went home with the gentlest tap of a dead-blow hammer.
Ok - today's question, and I'm sure it's a boneheaded one as it's been covered before....but this just doesn't make sense.
I'm reusing my existing conrods and kept track of how they came out (plus end caps, etc) - but I don't trust anything that's coming out of this motor now given someone else has been in it. Looking at the oil squirt hole orientation, all the references say that the milled flats and the oil squirt holes should face to the right (which means one squirter points up, the other points down).
(https://i.ibb.co/d0H786KL/PXL-20251216-182919882.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d0H786KL)
Oil Hole in question...
But that doesn't make sense if the role of these is to squirt the underside of the pistons. It seems like both should squirt UP, but instead, all facing right means one side gets squirted underneath and the other squirts the sidewall of the engine case? Am I overthinking it? Using new bearing shells so previous run-in is ignored.
(https://i.ibb.co/VWJkRvzW/PXL-20251216-183758616.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VWJkRvzW)
This is how I would THINK it would go, but this would be incorrect.
Also, looking at the two conrods, one side looks like something funny happened - unclear if this is from the factory or field related damage. Is this just a manufacturing thing or is this rod suspect? Underside of the cylinder skirt looks ok. Thoughts?
(https://i.ibb.co/jZs4ZrdS/PXL-20251216-183552849.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jZs4ZrdS)
Looks like a hand-grinder was taken to this???
[Post-lunch edit...] Everything I see says left-up, right-down. I don't understand why, but that agrees with how they come out so that's how they're going back in.
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Ran the heads through the ultrasonic. Had to put the valve keepers in a press to get them to pop. Gotta say, never had to do that before - but this motor has been a long time sitting. Valves cleaned up nicely, valve tips looked like this:
(https://i.ibb.co/yBVRJnjL/PXL-20251218-192932401.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yBVRJnjL)(https://i.ibb.co/tMRqyMhk/PXL-20251218-193030271.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tMRqyMhk)
Couldn't catch a finger on it, but still peace of mind wanted them cleaned up. My local VW hot rod shop chucked them into the grinder, and in under a few minutes cleaned them all up up (only 2 of 4 shown of course).
(https://i.ibb.co/RpDrk6rp/PXL-20251218-224846250.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RpDrk6rp)
The kicker, he said "have a great holiday" and sent me home f.o.c.! Refused to take any payment despite my insistence. Love old school places who like doing old school stuff. Gotta figure out how to keep them in business.
Started the cylinder build up - and let me just say - when the Italians say "everything is pre-sized", what they MEANT to say is they INTEND for everything to be pre-sized. After putting one cylinder and head together, torqed it up - engine was pretty tight with only one cylinder installed and that was not a good sign. Pulled it back apart, and found the oil control ring gap to be 0.0025". That's not going to work.
(https://i.ibb.co/ccnJvn9B/PXL-20251219-192246164.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ccnJvn9B)(https://i.ibb.co/k6mg7gh8/PXL-20251219-192305385.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k6mg7gh8)
Now we check them all. Luckily, no wall scoring and this should be better once I get it back together again. Thankfully I've got a spare head gasket.
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Ring gaps set - that cylinder now moves like it should. Since I had to pull a cylinder back off that put me short of a base gasket so I'm waiting for another gasket to turn up.
While we're waiting, as they say, "if you've got time to lean, you've got time to clean." Front cover went into the ultrasonic - it's slightly too big for the cleaner so I had to do it in halves. Yeah, baby.
(https://i.ibb.co/35PGv6FW/PXL-20251221-194009314.jpg) (https://ibb.co/35PGv6FW)
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Ok - today's update - winter storms, holidays, and missing parts slowed me down a bit. But with the ring-gaps set, and the replacement base-gasket in hand, I got to finish building up the block and top-end. All is nice and clean (clean enough), sealed and torqued. Spins nicely. (note: oil pressure gauge isn't going to stay, I just want it there for priming and first fire to make sure we are seeing what we need given all the oil system changes for the filtered front bearing)
(https://i.ibb.co/xS6yWCvq/PXL-20251226-234655197.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xS6yWCvq)(https://i.ibb.co/dwBdvX9d/PXL-20251226-234641252.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dwBdvX9d)
However, in putting the left hand rocker bridge on and torquing it up, I found that the exhaust side rocker pin is wrecked. Similarly, the rocker bushing is also buggared - so those are now on order.
(https://i.ibb.co/JRj31Vw3/PXL-20251226-182343539.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JRj31Vw3)
Lastly, I was looking at something on the frame, and this fell out - and I cannot for the life of me figure out where it came from or where it goes. Any ideas?
(https://i.ibb.co/xKJWCjDm/PXL-20251226-234822443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xKJWCjDm)
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Lastly, I was looking at something on the frame, and this fell out - and I cannot for the life of me figure out where it came from or where it goes. Any ideas?
(https://i.ibb.co/xKJWCjDm/PXL-20251226-234822443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xKJWCjDm)
That's an "olive" that fits onto the speedometer and tachometer cables, the securing nut squeezes it onto the outer housing of the cable to keep it in place.
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Did you find it under the Battery tray? Any time I've taken apart an old guzzi , I find one or two of them. That's one of those bits that gets dropped and is never seen again. :gr
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Thanks for the identification on the "olive" - I figured it was either speedo or tacho cables, or possibly throttle cables. It fell from somewhere on the frame as I was looking at something and I couldn't tell where it fell from.
So, now that the motor is nearly buttoned up, attention turns to the gearbox. And OMG this thing is full of misery. Just a matter of curiosity at this point, but the clutch hub is wrecked and the friction-discs have plenty of material and look nearly new, the teeth tell a different story. I have no idea what could have caused that kind of wear, but at this point doesn't really matter So, that's another job on the list.
(https://i.ibb.co/bjPRfRjy/PXL-20251227-164602310.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bjPRfRjy)(https://i.ibb.co/zWTtrL66/PXL-20251227-164616374.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zWTtrL66)
Stepping back for a moment - I bought this bike because it looked to be fairly complete, numbers-matching and had a presence and patina that looked genuine. It also looked like a fun project to stay busy during the winter months. While I still think this is true, a sane person would have called this a parts bike and harvested it. I got it for a good "ran-when-parked" price, and by the time it's all said and done, it will probably be a break-even if the time comes to sell it...that's what I'll tell myself anyway. :tongue:
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The clutch plates appear to be those sold by Barnett and that is their usual failure mode. The sandwiched construction is part of the issue, but inadequate heat-treating seems to be a problem as well. The only plates I use are the "SD-TEC" bonded and riveted plates with matching deep spline hub.
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The clutch plates appear to be those sold by Barnett and that is their usual failure mode.
Makes sense - I remember when Barnett clutches were the thing to have, sadly. Previous owner said the bike was parked because "the clutch froze up and they couldn't get it to release". The friction surfaces and intermediate plate show no sign of being stuck, but the notches cut into the hub I'm sure gave the discs something to hang-up on...or, once in there, they wouldn't come out. Grooves are probably 0.5-1mm deep in spots.
SD-Tec's ordered.
Any tips for replacing the rocker bushing?
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Makes sense - I remember when Barnett clutches were the thing to have, sadly. Previous owner said the bike was parked because "the clutch froze up and they couldn't get it to release". The friction surfaces and intermediate plate show no sign of being stuck, but the notches cut into the hub I'm sure gave the discs something to hang-up on...or, once in there, they wouldn't come out. Grooves are probably 0.5-1mm deep in spots.
SD-Tec's ordered.
Any tips for replacing the rocker bushing?
I have my local machine shop replace the rocker bushings and ream them to size.
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I got brave and this worked to get it out without too much trouble - 16mm tap run in about 1", flip it over and then drop a punch into the centering point on the leading-end of the tap and drive it out with a bfh (big f'ing hammer). Saw a Harley guy do it on youtube so it must be legit.
(https://i.ibb.co/5hxBY749/PXL-20251228-205311012.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5hxBY749)
Remains to be seen if I'll be brave enough to install the new one (heat the rocker, freeze the bushing, oil it and go) or if I'll have a shop do it. May go shop if it has to be reamed to size anyway. Will see when the bearing shows up what I decide.
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Rocker bush and pin showed up - fabbed up an installation mandrel (formerly a Ducati clip on, then turned into a VW clutch installation tool, now a Guzzi bushing installation tool). Pressed right in without really much drama. Double, triple checked the installed diameter, and it's at the high-end of size for spec and reaming is not really going to help so gonna leave it alone.
(https://i.ibb.co/7tBPBTzJ/PXL-20260102-212442035.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7tBPBTzJ)(https://i.ibb.co/qMgzk5TP/PXL-20260102-212450005.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qMgzk5TP)
Thinking I could finally button up the top end, and I found a booger'ed up valve-adjuster screw. Galled like crazy and so again now we wait. :-/ All the others are ok.
Also clutch discs and hub showed up - so that's where we'll go next - the gearbox.
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Probably too late now that you've put the front end of the engine back together, but what did the oil pump look like? If that engine had chrome flakes run through it, and no oil filter, it may be ready for a replacement.
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Good call - and yes I already took the oil pump apart and gave it a clean an inspection. I didn't take photos of that part. Gear teeth looked clean, and no slop between the pair when installed. I didn't measure side-clearance, etc, but the pump itself looked ok. That has been the case with many parts in here - one side of a mating surface will be wrecked (ie big-end bearing), but the other side perfectly clean (ie. crank journal).
The engine-side wear surface has some swirls on it, but nothing I could catch a nail on and felt perfectly smooth when you drug a finger across it. Visibly it looks alarming, but I think it looks much worse than it is. Not sure what can be done about it, however. Fab and put a wear plate under it, but then that throws the chain alignment off? So then have to machine the face of the case down to put the pump back in plane? (ugh)
(https://i.ibb.co/fV0zL4p2/PXL-20251204-173241001.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fV0zL4p2)
Plan is once I get the front cover on it, to prime the system and crank it on the bench to check for oil pressure. Any idea what can be expected with just starter motor rpm?
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Lots to share since the last update. Checked and set both cam and distributor timing. Also modified the advance plate to get left and right cylinders in the same ballpark as far as static timing. Waiting on a couple small pieces before I can button up the motor so we move on to other stuff.
I'd mentioned in a previous update that I was working on a 3d printing thing - seems that all the 850Ts have their headlight switch cover broken off. Local library has 3d printers which you can use for free - and they're also super excited if you use them for useful stuff. Took several attempts but this is getting there. Calling it close enough for now, but may work on making this better later after the bike is running.
(https://i.ibb.co/Gf6zDMVB/PXL-20260106-210831188.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Gf6zDMVB) (https://i.ibb.co/yt3BrgN/PXL-20260106-232249852.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yt3BrgN)
On to the (mildly) terrifying task of the gearbox. Nothing earth shattering in here - other than draining out only about 50ml of oil vs the 750ml that's supposed to be in there. Also some really petrified lip-seals and o-rings needed to come out and be replaced. Everything went for a ride in the cleaner (I cannot recommend an ultrasonic cleaner highly enough).
(https://i.ibb.co/FLznFkz3/PXL-20260107-010941578.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FLznFkz3) (https://i.ibb.co/8DYswN0W/PXL-20260107-010952872.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8DYswN0W) (https://i.ibb.co/ns78QYY1/PXL-20260107-010959814.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ns78QYY1)
Of the internal carnage, the speedo drive looks absolutely hammered. Do they all look like this? What do we suppose caused it? The hypoid-drive on the inputshaft side looks like new so again, one side trashed, the other side clean.
(https://i.ibb.co/QvcjB6nx/PXL-20260107-011116334.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QvcjB6nx)
Also, the throwout rod thrust-bearing is a one-piece/one-sided affair - the needles are enclosed completely on one side, and this looks like it was a bad idea as I think it locked up at some point and the plunger itself (with the o-ring) was spinning as a result and was starting to machine itself down along with the lever adjustment screw. So these are garbage and needed replacing anyway.
(https://i.ibb.co/Tqqyr4tg/PXL-20260107-164623925.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Tqqyr4tg) (https://i.ibb.co/KxpvB23d/PXL-20260107-164648497.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KxpvB23d)
Now to put the gearbox back together before I forgot how it came apart.
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This caught my eye putting the shafts back in. I didn't know Guzzi was so ahead of their time! They apparently had invented "air bearings" for thrust applications! :wink:
Needles are not in the parts washer, not in the oil I drained out, they are gone.
(https://i.ibb.co/yn444XPs/PXL-20260107-205125691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yn444XPs)
Interestingly, McMaster Carr has a needle bearing (5909K16) and hardened washers (5909K76) that look about right. They'll be here tomorrow. Question is, since I don't have the needles, can anyone tell me what the total height is of either the guzzi original stack (washers + bearing) or just across the bearing rollers?
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Everything measures up, including the thickness of the thrust washers - so installed it and put the box back together. Torqued everything up, and everything shifts nice. It seemed to get lost between 4th and 5th before, now not so - guessing the extra 1mm with the missing rollers was letting the gear pair float around. A last couple of finishing touches on the motor and that can get oil and a spin for pressure. Waiting for clutch throwout rod parts - when that shows up, then the gearbox can get oil and be assembled in anger. We almost have a motor and gearbox.
(https://i.ibb.co/GfNpcj0G/PXL-20260108-191339440.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GfNpcj0G) (https://i.ibb.co/zVLKrD3L/PXL-20260108-194644599.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zVLKrD3L)
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Ok - lots to update you all on. After putting the gearbox back together, torquing it all up, replacing the galled valve-adjuster screw, putting all the fluids back in, I declare the engine and gearbox "ready" to go back in the frame.
(https://i.ibb.co/gL2PmPFb/PXL-20260114-224043594.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gL2PmPFb)
With just a cordless drill and a hex key on the crank nose, I'm able to make 20psi of oil pressure. I did have to prime it by hand first (opened an oil feed line to one of he heads and turned it by hand till it started puking oil out the banjo). So I'm hopeful the oil-filter mod is good and will make good pressure while cleaning the damned oil.
So, speaking of going back in the frame - it leaves the matter of the broken steering stop. Pretty impossible to work on this with the frame in its normal orientation so best to strip it down to the point where you can flip the frame over. That means taking the triples off cuz the steering head bearings should get checked anyway, and here we are.
(https://i.ibb.co/7JFbCGhj/PXL-20260116-190431695.jpg) (https://ibb.co/7JFbCGhj) (https://i.ibb.co/SwcsqHGy/PXL-20260115-000934287.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SwcsqHGy)
I think rather than cut the stop bracket away from the frame to replace the entire bracket, I'm going to clean up the "nub" and weld a new tang back onto the nub. This approach makes both sides of the weld more accessible than trying to get up in there with a completely new bracket and I have a lot more confidence in my ability to weld things I can see vs. what I can't see. Can also see the state of the steering head bearing outer race, can't feel those ridges where the rollers sit but I think it's worth replacing these since we're in it this far.
And speaking of being in it this far, that leaves the matter of what to do with the frame. To get things to the point where they are, it wasn't much further to just get the frame bare and see what see. The frame paint is scruffy and welding is going to mess up some of the paint in the area near the steering head. So as far as we are in here, it probably just makes sense to take it to a powder coater and have the frame blasted and painted. I'm still fretting over it, but it seems like the right answer if this bike is going to stick around for another 51 years.
(https://i.ibb.co/5gHWDd7J/PXL-20260116-190438389.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5gHWDd7J)
A question to the collective then - the rear swingarm should probably get the same treatment as the frame and engine cradle. I've never had a final drive apart before (planning to do seals and gaskets), but my question is, can I split the ring-gear housing from the drive-tube without opening a can of worms with shimming the pinion? Or best to not break it open, mask that part off and do it that way? What's ya'lls advice here?
(https://i.ibb.co/pB55dNX4/PXL-20260116-190449795.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pB55dNX4)
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I've found that if the steering stop is knocked off, then there's a good chance that the frame is bent. Find a surface that is as close to perfectly flat as possible, place the main frame (no lower rails or anything else attached) on it and see if the front engine mounts both touch or if one is up off the surface. Frame may rock side to side as well.
Removing the rear drive from the swingarm will not disturb any shimming - that is all inside the pinion carrier which should stay inside the rear drive housing.
If you're having the swingarm powdercoated, then all of the bearings (pivot and u-joint carrier) will need to be removed. The carrier bearing should be replaced anyway.
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I've found that if the steering stop is knocked off, then there's a good chance that the frame is bent. Find a surface that is as close to perfectly flat as possible, place the main frame (no lower rails or anything else attached) on it and see if the front engine mounts both touch or if one is up off the surface. Frame may rock side to side as well.
Found a couple of flat spots and tried a few different orientations, feels pretty square to me. If I do get wiggle it's less than 1mm or even less if I move it around to find a happy spot on the floor, so I'm going to call that the floor.
Removing the rear drive from the swingarm will not disturb any shimming - that is all inside the pinion carrier which should stay inside the rear drive housing.
If you're having the swingarm powdercoated, then all of the bearings (pivot and u-joint carrier) will need to be removed. The carrier bearing should be replaced anyway.
Ok, easy enough then - will do on the carrier bearing. I was able to push the vin-plate rivets out from inside the steering neck and I didn't even lose any! :thumb:
Any other specific tips on dealing with the powder coater? They have done quite a few bikes so they know their way around - but sometimes overconfidence gets in the way (or unfamiliarity with Guzzis) and things that shouldn't be coated get buried. I kinda don't want to take the steering head lock out (I do have the key), maybe that's a fools errand it should come out anyway?
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Personally, I would never consider to strip a fully functional final drive unless you A) want to learn how they go together or B) want to be absolutely certain it is well within spec. Or both. I have never considered either A or B as the risk of doing something wrong is too great for comfort. For me. Plus, should one fail, they can be found cheap secondhand.
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Personally, I would never consider to strip a fully functional final drive[...]
I've set pinion depths before on a Hewland mk9 - but it's not something I'm eager to do again. Life is simply too short for that kindof nonsense.
:boozing:
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Any other specific tips on dealing with the powder coater? They have done quite a few bikes so they know their way around - but sometimes overconfidence gets in the way (or unfamiliarity with Guzzis) and things that shouldn't be coated get buried. I kinda don't want to take the steering head lock out (I do have the key), maybe that's a fools errand it should come out anyway?
The steering lock comes out easily, so for me it's a "no brainer" on removing it. You either use a thin blade of some sort to pry under the cover near the rivet, or sometimes tap it loose with a long drift (it you can find a good angle). Then use the key to remove the lock.
I ask the powdercoater to tape over where the lock cover, steering head and swingarm pivot bearings go, the front and rear of the driveshaft tunnel and point out where all of the threaded holes are in hopes that they'll plug them.
Personally, I would never consider to strip a fully functional final drive unless you A) want to learn how they go together or B) want to be absolutely certain it is well within spec. Or both. I have never considered either A or B as the risk of doing something wrong is too great for comfort. For me. Plus, should one fail, they can be found cheap secondhand.
Rear drives aren't rocket science if you're just going in to replace the seals. It's always nice for gear lube to stay inside, fresh seals are a way of helping to insure that. As long as one uses the same number of gaskets (normally 2 - one on either side of the large shim), there not much of a chance of messing things up. There's no seals in the pinion carrier assembly, so no need to disassemble that. "Cheap secondhand" :laugh: Maybe for Hondas and Yamahas, but not a good one for an 850-T - expect to pay $400 and up.
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Steering stop repaired - no judgement on my welding skills.
(https://i.ibb.co/HfCC7W2d/PXL-20260118-233119626.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HfCC7W2d) (https://i.ibb.co/9mfMKfBF/PXL-20260118-233129437.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9mfMKfBF)
The steering lock came out pretty easy as Charlie pointed out; with the key, it's no problem.
I got the retaining clip out of the carrier bearing, but it won't budge with fairly assertive use of hand-tools. Do I need to press this out from the back side? And how best to get the bearing shells out of the swingarm itself?
(https://i.ibb.co/nMSXMK2d/PXL-20260118-233146633.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMSXMK2d)
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I got the retaining clip out of the carrier bearing, but it won't budge with fairly assertive use of hand-tools. Do I need to press this out from the back side? And how best to get the bearing shells out of the swingarm itself?
(https://i.ibb.co/nMSXMK2d/PXL-20260118-233146633.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nMSXMK2d)
A blind hole bearing puller set really comes in handy here.
(https://i.ibb.co/Mxff0896/blind-hole-bearing-puller-set.webp) (https://ibb.co/Mxff0896)
I install one of the collets into the carrier bearing so that I have something to drive against with a long steel bar and hammer from the back side.
The kit slide hammer and largest collet will remove the pivot bearing outer races as well. Some mechanics prefer to run a bead of weld around the inside of the race, which shrinks it when cooled, allowing it to be removed easily.
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Whaddaya know - the welding trick worked a treat. They didn’t just fall out, but shrunk enough that I could rock them back and forth and walk them out of the bores. Maybe 30 minutes work. The carrier bearing put up a real fight, probably 7-8 tons to get it to pop.
(https://i.ibb.co/TMPFWpzt/PXL-20260119-192743805-Original.jpg) (https://ibb.co/TMPFWpzt)
Should have frame, cradle and swingarm out for paint this week.
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Center stand apart, everything bagged and tagged so I can hopefully remember how it to put it all back together again.
How about these center-stand links and the crankcase vent tube bracket - coat these too? Don't know if the center-stand links an aesthetic decision or a functional one.
(https://i.ibb.co/fdCtf8F6/Screenshot-2026-01-20-at-12-25-58-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/fdCtf8F6)
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Center stand apart, everything bagged and tagged so I can hopefully remember how it to put it all back together again.
How about these center-stand links and the crankcase vent tube bracket - coat these too? Don't know if the center-stand links an aesthetic decision or a functional one.
(https://i.ibb.co/fdCtf8F6/Screenshot-2026-01-20-at-12-25-58-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/fdCtf8F6)
I zinc-plate those, as they were from the factory.
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Today was final-drive day. I was being pretty cautious because this is an area where you can make a whole lot of work for yourself if you're not careful. It's not that hard, just have to pay close attention to things and know when is enough. At first I was just going to do the wheel-side big-seal and give everything a clean, and then I spotted the "outer" seal hiding down in there who's probably been in there for 51 years. I stewed over it for a bit, and figured what the h*ll - I've heated bearing shells in/out of Hewland cases, how hard can it be? Turns out, not too hard. I couldn't find my MAP so I settled for propane - in the end probably a good call anyway, takes longer but the heating is more controlled.
Clamped the housing vertically in some soft-jaws, and started to work with the propane going around the outside of the shell area and ribs, while periodically checking with IR thermometer. When my thermometer read about 140deg F (who knows what the actual metal temp was), the shell pulled out with gloved fingers. Lip seal came out without much of a fight. With the pinion assembly removed (that's NOT coming apart, thank you), I could replace the o-ring there, and put the bare final drive housing in the bath.
(https://i.ibb.co/nNGHPbMH/PXL-20260122-193756004.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nNGHPbMH)
Assembly is indeed the reverse of removal, outer seal, heat the housing to slip the copper shim and bearing shell back in again (well below 240deg), put the locking tab back on, needle cage and needles, and drop the ring-gear assembly back in after lubing everything. Then pressed in the big lip seal with the wood plank and dead-blow techinque, paper, shim, paper, and torque that all down with waves.
(https://i.ibb.co/bjGrx7my/PXL-20260122-224011521.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bjGrx7my) (https://i.ibb.co/sv8VYVb2/PXL-20260122-224022473.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sv8VYVb2)
Hoping to get the frame off to the powder coaters tomorrow, and we can work on the rear wheel and rear brakes.
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Allright - long time, no update. In short a lot has happened. Frame came back from the powder coater a few days ago. Replaced the steering head bearings, but forgot that I'd left the upper triple clamp in the cleaner overnight and it stripped the paint off it, mostly. So had to finish stripping that for prime and paint yesterday.
(https://i.ibb.co/q2jGMdd/PXL-20260130-192105990.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q2jGMdd)
Reinstalled the vin plate and fork lock while we were working in that area. Put the lower rails back on, and the center stand - and I couldn't help myself for putting the frame back on.
(https://i.ibb.co/CpZnTTMb/PXL-20260203-013817578.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CpZnTTMb) (https://i.ibb.co/pvLKdKgM/PXL-20260203-013840312.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pvLKdKgM)
While we were waiting for the frame, I got into the back end a bit. Pulled the rear brake apart and did battle with those gawd-awful shoe springs. That was a fight. Wondered why the brakes were so difficult to operate...this is probably why...
(https://i.ibb.co/KjFY1mPr/PXL-20260129-235511146.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KjFY1mPr)
Thankfully Curtis has them still and so an order from him turned up a couple of new ones (new left, old right).
In for a penny, in for a pound - the u-joint was notchy, so get to rebuild that. Everything that could go wrong with these bikes seems to have happened to this bike as a complete study. Man. Anwyay, u-joint-store sent me 22x50 (which is what I ordered) only to pull the joint apart and find they're 20x44. The nice folks there will swap me crosses and after US Postal gives it a tour of the united states, I should have the right joints in hand so I can finish putting it together.
(https://i.ibb.co/YgGpG9w/PXL-20260201-002549988.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YgGpG9w) (https://i.ibb.co/Qvw2NSH7/PXL-20260201-002612499.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qvw2NSH7)
Aaaand lastly, putting the swingarm back together and the driveshaft carrier bearing is really putting up a fight. Any tips on how to install this without a bunch of heartache? I'm soaking the bearing in dry-ice right now, so hoping some heat on the bore (but not enough to mess up my nice new powder coat) and maybe there will be enough clearance to get it to start. No photo of that bit - I'm done for the day.
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Brief update for today - went to a friend's place who has a proper press and a variety of different sized round objects to stick into it - made sure everything was square, and the carrier bearing went in without much complaint. All the messing around with dry-ice etc wasn't working and wasn't necessary. Was a fun experiment regardless.
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Starting to look like a bike again. Will post a photo later. For now, a few updates...
Pulled the mufflers apart (Dunstall Decibels) to find out what's rattling around inside there. And it looks like they were packed with old-style furnace filters sometime long ago. Will re-pack these properly and see how long they last. Have a crossover coming from Charlie which will let get the mufflers mounted correctly as well (they were just cantilever off of the header flange at the head - just no bueno).
(https://i.ibb.co/LX3cd26v/PXL-20260205-202250442.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LX3cd26v)
New tires are inbound (Dunlop d404) - actually they're here just waiting on tubes - so time to get the front wheel in shape now that the back wheel and brake is done so they can go to the shop to get tires swapped. This means pulling the forks out and apart and yeah, more joy. One of the two dampers is on it's way out, so a new pair of those on order - that's the easy part. The fork tubes are not so easy...and I cannot begin to describe the smell...
(https://i.ibb.co/39fm57GD/PXL-20260205-185132359.jpg) (https://ibb.co/39fm57GD)
(https://i.ibb.co/4nXRQLfX/PXL-20260205-185128146.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4nXRQLfX) (https://i.ibb.co/GQ7qTbdL/PXL-20260205-202246730.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GQ7qTbdL)
One is definitely worse than the other. Both have pitting above the fork seal which is mainly a cosmetic issue. But the wear around where the seal rides is through the chrome on one side, and getting there on the other. I put them in a lathe today with some steel wool and oil and did what I could to dress them. "Better" but still not great. Given how these forks work, the bike came with a set of "Leakproof oil seals" - will put those in, and mount the fork tubes 90deg rotated in the triples to see if we can make a new wear spot on the fork. Any other words of wisdom here?
So inbound are - U-joints (more in a sec), h-pipe, fork dampers, tires and tubes. All this will let me put the swingarm back on (ujoint), forks and tires on, and he can be back on his feet!
Speaking of u-joints, had GREAT customer service from Nathan at https://ujointstores.com/ (https://ujointstores.com/) - they have both size of guzzi joints, the 22x50mm for the bigger ones (T3 maybe?) and the 20x44mm for the T. I ordered the bigger one by mistake, and they fixed it for me f.o.c. Always want to plug those that support crazy people like me. So hoping you give them some business as well.
On this subject, shout out to Harper Moto, Crusty Cycle, MG and of course Charlie at Antietam. They're doing their best to keep us all rolling and none of this would be feasible (or even possible) without folks like them.
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I have saved many stanchions that had pitting in the area where the seal move by using a fine oil stone to remove every peak. In my experience, cavities does not bother seals, only peaks. Anything that sticks up above the surface, regardless how little, will nip the seals sooner or later. To reduce the chance of new corrosion forming, I have then either fitted gaiters/bellows or put oil soaked foam, cut to fit around the stanchions, under the dust covers.
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It's been a while, but progress has been happening.
Rebuilt the u-joints, and that is not a fist-fight I recommend having but it's done now.
When re-installing the rear swingarm, I heartily recommend leaving the final drive off so it's lighter, and install it afterwards. And then I learned that the swingarm doesn't like to go straight in, but instead tip it up-and-in at a strong angle such that the brake-side swingarm pivot bearing goes into the pivot-pin pocket on that side of the frame...in this way, using the depth of the pocket makes it such that the whole swingarm just pivots up and into the frame without any fuss at all. Have the pivot pins handy so you can put them in without dropping the swingarm on the floor. (thank heavens for this forum and "search", btw)
We're now entering the "finished carpentry" stage, which in my view always takes the longest if you're going to do it properly.
First, he's starting to look like a motorcycle again...
(https://i.ibb.co/9kh5bntq/PXL-20260217-192512289.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9kh5bntq) (https://i.ibb.co/YGxMSHc/PXL-20260217-192524289.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YGxMSHc) (https://i.ibb.co/v4xsNkcH/PXL-20260217-192535868.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v4xsNkcH)
The tedious business of what has to be installed before what is now in play. Starting with the rearsets and shift lever. When I got the bike, the p.o. had bent the left hand rearset way back - I had thought it was to clear the Dunstall silencers with no h-pipe...that put the flare of the muffler really far forward. Thanks to Charlie I have an h-pipe now, and the silencers are now going to sit further back - once I repack the silencers and make brackets noting that the mufflers were unsupported previously and just hung cantilever off the back of the down-pipes. (...sigh..)
However, I still had to do a lot of messing around with shims and spacers to get a rearset+shift position that works. What's shown is pretty workable with some but not terrible clash; I don't like all the spacers and on downshift to 1st the shifter just skims the rearset and the pipe and will leave wear marks eventually.
Does this look right to you all, and any tips on getting this area to work nicely? The link from the shift pedal-rod bell-crank to the gearbox is shortened as far as it will go - possibly if I pop the gearbox side lever off and hop one spline, I can get more adjustment back and then 1st->5th will all happen *above* the rearset? Since it was messed up when I got it, I don't know where this lever is supposed to sit naturally and whether the shifting happens on both sides of the rearset or only one side.
I'll ride this as-is, but if I can clean it up, great. I also see that the cap-screws are too short now, and nylocs are too tall - so again, a wierd fastener situation here that I have to rectify.
(https://i.ibb.co/5xwnXBdj/PXL-20260217-192601033.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5xwnXBdj) (https://i.ibb.co/G4whGYCy/PXL-20260217-192606803.jpg) (https://ibb.co/G4whGYCy)
Post-post edit: I popped the arm off the gearbox and rotated it 1 tooth - now 1st->5th is entirely above the footpeg, and I was able to pull 1 turn out of the pedal->gearbox link as well. I tried taking one set of the spacers out and the shift lever would still hit the footpeg, so with all the spacers in, the shift lever has full travel and hits nothing. Still not sure this is right, but happier with it.
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Brief diversion from muffler packing (grumble, grumble) and an aside on petcock gaskets. Every piece of rubber on this machine is petrified, so it's all getting replaced. Bruce Giller is kind and crazy enough to make replacement viton seals for Orlandi (and other) petcocks https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_petcock_gasket_kit.html (https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_petcock_gasket_kit.html).
Getting them apart is pretty easy, getting them back together again takes more technique since there's a pretty strong spring inside there that provides pressure on the sealing surface, but it fights you when you try to put the valve body back in. You have to press down and turn, whilst avoiding bending the bat-handle which is the shutoff lever. I found that some organic "soft-jaws", and an adjustable wrench can be utilized thusly to both push down and turn the cap until the threads grab and you're home.
(https://i.ibb.co/qYgFQ9TV/PXL-20260218-164417204.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qYgFQ9TV) (https://i.ibb.co/whdRDDN1/PXL-20260218-164433879.jpg) (https://ibb.co/whdRDDN1) (https://i.ibb.co/nspcS7Sg/PXL-20260218-164502789.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nspcS7Sg) (https://i.ibb.co/N6VqzCXZ/PXL-20260218-164556176.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N6VqzCXZ)
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Ok - lots to share. First, enriching plungers...my plunger springs are good, but the rubber is petrified. Bruce was willing to also punch out some viton slugs to fit them. Will update once we're running and he may add these to his inventory of parts he can supply.
(https://i.ibb.co/LhnSLJvL/PXL-20260221-191329015-PORTRAIT.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LhnSLJvL)
There continues to be a never ending list of things to strip, clean and paint. The shift rod is chromed, but the brake rod is not. I mainly took the photo to keep track of how it was assembled so I can reassemble it. This gets stripped and painted.
(https://i.ibb.co/C5JcW74d/PXL-20260223-200839073.jpg) (https://ibb.co/C5JcW74d)
Same for the fuse cover - had big holes in it, so epoxied them up and this will get painted too.
(https://i.ibb.co/VW9DhXwP/PXL-20260223-191746888.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VW9DhXwP)
The tire guy had a real wrestling match getting the old Flinstone tires off the rims (date code was 1978!). He had to use sticky weights because he had run out of spoke weights. Any advice or opinions on stickies vs. spokes, and is it worth swapping these out?
(https://i.ibb.co/2Y3s3vpQ/PXL-20260223-201144822.jpg) (https://ibb.co/2Y3s3vpQ)
Speaking of tires, the new one (Dunlop D404s) are wider than the ones that came off, and that posed fun for the reaction rod for the rear brake assembly. Not the clearest of photos but if you know what you're looking at I think it will be clear. Fabbed a spacer to kick the reaction rod to the other side of the tab on the swingarm and make room for the tire, but too far and you clash with the center-stand when it swings up. Fiddling with this took a while but I think this will work just fine.
(https://i.ibb.co/rGRKPrMD/PXL-20260226-001022206.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rGRKPrMD) (https://i.ibb.co/yngfPPG9/PXL-20260226-001047948.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yngfPPG9)
Brake rod cleaned, painted and installed. This is another lesson in "things have to go together in a certain order or else" - with everything removed, the frame looks so open, but as you start to load the parts back in, it's surprising how quickly the space tightens up. The shift rod and rear brake rod seem to want to go in at the same time. So pull the rearset brackets off and do it again this time with the rear rod in place too.
(https://i.ibb.co/hxSMfGG3/PXL-20260226-001107254.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hxSMfGG3)
So where are are we now...
(https://i.ibb.co/RT3qM7G9/PXL-20260226-001124195.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RT3qM7G9) (https://i.ibb.co/tpMP3xKp/PXL-20260226-001114573.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tpMP3xKp) (https://i.ibb.co/ynm6p1c9/PXL-20260226-001210116.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ynm6p1c9) (https://i.ibb.co/F4hXvBbX/PXL-20260226-001140305.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F4hXvBbX)
Wiring is back in place, net of the gage cluster. Got the tank fitted so I could make sure wiring and cables route correctly. Throttle cables took some fiddling but they're happy now. Then I learned you can't fit the front fender with the front wheel in place (again, order matters) so I pulled the front off and mounted the mudgard today. I still need to repack the other Dunstall silencer, I've been putting that off but now's the time. With the other one packed, I can make brackets and then paint those along with the rear brake switch bracket and a few other bits and pieces.
Getting close to being able to start him up. Home stretch I think.
Question for the collective - as I'm putting the handlebars back together, I'm curious how the OEM switches are retained on the bars? The kill/start cluster by the throttle specifically? As it sits, the switch sort of floats around on the bar and it looks like it gets clamped down with the front brake master cylinder, but there's no clear provision that this is how it's supposed to be. Any suggestions?
(https://i.ibb.co/qY4v667h/PXL-20260226-203207680.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qY4v667h)
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Your mufflers appear to be Bubs, the long versions. I had them on my first Convert and a G5 after that, they sounded great. They were meant to mount directly to the header pipes, at least on those models.
On the throttle side, the switch is held in place by the throttle, on the left side the switch is retained by a locking washer.
(https://i.ibb.co/rRh51Nts/Le-Mans-switch-retaining-washer.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rRh51Nts)
IIRC, the last time I needed some, I found them at McMaster-Carr.
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Your mufflers appear to be Bubs, the long versions. I had them on my first Convert and a G5 after that, they sounded great. They were meant to mount directly to the header pipes, at least on those models.
Nope - these are Dunstall Decibles. They are kinda ridiculous - 31" long and the flare out quickly from the flange which is what caused all the fooling around with the forward footpegs and shifter as the flare got in the way of the levers when put all the way forward onto the header pipes. With the (your) H-pipe installed, that shifts them back about 6-8", and when I push them all the way forward I can get them inside the rear tire. I'm not thrilled with the setup, but I think it's workable for now.
(https://i.ibb.co/0VcBfJ47/PXL-20260227-013341126.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0VcBfJ47) (https://i.ibb.co/xqf8Z5Z7/PXL-20260227-014909509.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xqf8Z5Z7) (https://i.ibb.co/nJ9PmXr/PXL-20260227-015242218.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nJ9PmXr)
On the throttle side, the switch is held in place by the throttle, on the left side the switch is retained by a locking washer.
Not sure I fully understand - the throttle keeps the switch from pushing off the end of the bar, but doesn't stop it rotating *around* the bar. On the left side, the brake m/c bar-clamp stops it from sliding torwards the steering head, but again doesn't stop it rotating around the bar and I'm not sure what the locking washer does in this case?
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As I remember it, there should be a "lug" on the switch housing that fits into the clutch perch. Seems there was something similar on the right side as well. Been years since I fooled with those original switches. They're really the worst ones Guzzi ever used and best chucked on ebay (those from my Convert sold for $300!) and replaced with something better.
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Yesterday and today were big days. Engine and gearbox is done, front and rear brakes are done, front and rear suspension is done, exhaust and mufflers are done (only minor bloodshed repacking the 2nd muffler), wiring is nearly done.
Speaking of wiring, let's rig up a battery (see the epoxy and painted fuse cover)...
(https://i.ibb.co/NhDhXR0/PXL-20260301-000138159.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NhDhXR0)
Turn the key and see what we see...
(https://i.ibb.co/LzQBkqCQ/PXL-20260228-235752416.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LzQBkqCQ) (https://i.ibb.co/SGZyqZQ/PXL-20260228-235806342.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SGZyqZQ) (https://i.ibb.co/F4508tsm/PXL-20260228-235823381.jpg) (https://ibb.co/F4508tsm)
So, pretty good actually! The Wixom fairing has to be connected to complete the circuit for the lights - more on that in a minute. But this seems like progress!
The license plate lamp isn't coming on except when the hibeams are on. And when the hibeams come on, there's a modulator in the circuit - badly in the circuit. The dip-dim/hibeam-flash toggles the relay, but the headlamp doesn't requite the gesture. So there's definitely some clean up here to do. I knew this was coming but still - with a lot of these other jobs done and dusted, working on this shouldn't be too bad.
(https://i.ibb.co/3ymR9rC7/PXL-20260301-001424816.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3ymR9rC7) (https://i.ibb.co/5hNMCgYs/PXL-20260301-003228411.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5hNMCgYs) (https://i.ibb.co/p6zDmMN4/PXL-20260301-003258638.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p6zDmMN4)
The Wixom wiring, from Wixom, is actually fairly nicely done - and handy they rivet the wiring diagram right onto the connector. The splices into the headlight bucket aren't horrible but there is a lone unconnected wire in there. Probably part of the problem. The headlight modulator and wiring *inside* the fairing is pretty hacked in. So there's going to be some cleanup here to do. Still not convinced I'm keeping the fairing, because it is enormous - but it's functional and right now kinda integral to the wiring.
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Waiting on a few more things before I can try to start it, plus better weather would also be a bonus....
Here's a dumb question, the logo-nut on top of the triple - that's supposed to lock the steering head preload nut down once you get the preload you want, yes? So, how do you get the eagle to line up horizontally (like the photo) because that may not be where the steering head nut wants to be underneath it for the right amount of preload?
(https://i.ibb.co/1t7BMnt3/Screenshot-2026-03-01-at-3-13-27-PM.png) (https://ibb.co/1t7BMnt3)
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Pop the emblem out of the nut and glue it back where you want it.
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Pop the emblem out of the nut and glue it back where you want it.
So, there's a solution I hadn't thought of. Brilliant!
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Well, the day has finally come to give him a try.
First, where we stand now...everything set in place just to get the visual reward...
(https://i.ibb.co/pYXTT99/PXL-20260303-190800199.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pYXTT99) (https://i.ibb.co/yFYWdkjf/PXL-20260303-190823014.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yFYWdkjf)
But, it's together enough to run...(!!!)
https://youtu.be/bCk0idL2ZIc (https://youtu.be/bCk0idL2ZIc)
Timing was dead on, charging system charged, after some fiddling with idle position, mixture and balance, got a nice idle (more later). No leaks, no alarming smells or sounds. Great news! Still lots of little details to chase down...but I think that will perpetually be the case.
In the not-great-news, I'm 6' tall and the previous owner wasn't, and so the seat pan on this "king and queen" seat is so far forward for me that I can't ride like this. I've always hated the seat but it's what it came with, however what better reason to get rid of it.
(https://i.ibb.co/pBNZGS03/PXL-20260303-220632184.jpg) (https://ibb.co/pBNZGS03)
Of what I could see, the seat pan looked ok, but if I'm going to have this recovered, best to get the cover off and see what we have.
(https://i.ibb.co/XfwrcwKg/PXL-20260305-223740048.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XfwrcwKg) (https://i.ibb.co/qF1k6V4R/PXL-20260305-223756199.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qF1k6V4R) (https://i.ibb.co/qFXynPsL/PXL-20260305-224421809.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qFXynPsL)
Yeah, it's pretty bad. Anything is saveable with enough time and effort, but I'm really not sure this one is worth it.
Corbin is an hour's drive for me and they will build a seat while you wait, but with a seat pan in this condition I'm not sure this is an option.
Definitely curious of the collective's thoughts?
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Pretty sure they (Corbin) can build a new pan that will not rust, but may not be ready while you wait. Sounds like a sensible solution, though, to get custom seat made for you :thumb: