Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: aebbern on April 15, 2013, 08:43:58 PM
-
Sorry for such a basic question, but I need something cleared up.
My wife and I just brought home her new V7 Stone from the local Guzzi dealer. We asked the salesman specifically about the correct technique to check engine oil level. He stated, very assuredly, that you need to screw the dipstick all the way in to get an accurate reading (with the bike vertical). Taking a look at the owners manual, I see it states "with the dipstick inserted, but not screwed in".
Having lived with several different Italian bikes (Laverda, Guzzi and Ducatis) in the past, I know from experience that their manuals sometimes get translated incorrectly.
Is the manual correct? Do you simply insert the dipstick, but don't screw it in, to get an accurate level reading?
Thanks,
Andy
-
Just dip it, not screwed in.
-
Even if you were supposed to screw it in, you could make a note of level when screwed in compared to just dipped then just dip from there. :pop
-
The Breva manual says screwed in, bike upright and oil hot.
-
Just dip it.
-
For the Stone, dip in without tightening after oil has warmed (after bike run, not at idle) and standing upright on both tires.
-
To expound on my earlier abbreviated via-phone post -
The VAST majority of motors with threaded dipsticks I've come across in my lifetime were properly checked by just dipping the stick (not rethreading).
So I never questioned this when I read the owner's manual for my V7 Stone. It seems cut and dry and smallblock owners can stop reading this post now unless they're curious why the confusion on the part of some salesman or other Guzzisti.
That said, I DID question it when I read the owner's manuals for my previous big blocks - as the conventional wisdom around this board is that for California Tonti models that the dipstick should be threaded back into place when checking. Though I have often wondered if THAT wasn't in fact a mistake from a bad Italian translation.
The California models like my old Jackal stated:
LUBRICATION
Engine lubrication
Checking the oil level (fig. 23)
Check the crankcase oil level every 500 km; the oil
should reach the «Max» mark on the dipstick «A». If the
oil is below this level, top up with the recommended type
and grade of oil.
N.B. - The oil level check should be carried out
after the engine has run for a few minutes: the
dipstick plug «A» should be screwed up completely
Well, I guess they one part correct - they screwed it up alright.
Many Guzzi owners took that statement to mean - "oh they meant with the dipstick screwed INward and fully seated."
I however always LITERALLY read that as "screwed upward" or "with the dipstick UNSCREWED to the TOP of the threads" or basically JUST DIPPED. I'm in the minority reading it this way. But that's what I did for the nearly 10 years I had my Jackal and it never really showed symptoms of having too much (or too little) oil. Though to be honest I must also admit that I ran the oil level at the middle of the acceptable range on the dipstick because it seemed to "find" its own level.
Fast forward 6 years of production and my old 2006 Breva 1100 manual read:
CAUTION
The engine oil level must be checked with a warm engine and with the oil level dipstick (1) not tightened
It goes on to specifiy in a step-by-step procedure:
* Clean the dipstick (1) and refit, do not tighten.
* Take it out again and check oil level
Since both the Jackal and the Breva are related big-block motors (ok, yes, technically they do use different sumps and dipsticks, so maybe I'm stretching it) I saw this as affirmation that I was reading the Jackal (California Tonti) procedure correctly.
BUT EVEN IF I WAS MISTAKEN about the reading of the Cali Tontis (and they are checked in the bizzare fashion of rethreading the dipstick) I can still take this as affirmation that Guzzi chose to move forward and start checking oil levels normally like 99% of the rest of the world and that makes me feel comfortable with the instructions in the V7 Stone owner's manual:
ENGINE MUST BE WARM TO CHECK
OIL LEVEL. THE DIPSTICK MUST BE
INSERTED BUT NOT SCREWED IN..
Seems clear as a bell to me.
Hope it is to you.
-
sounds like alot of hair splitting to me
-
sounds like alot of hair splitting to me
Pretty much...
But with a standard capacity smallblock, a little hair splitting might be helpful - the darn things only have a capacity of less than 2 liters stock.
I like having the sump spacer on mine for sure!
-
Gave up my V50 in 1989 pretty much ignorant
-
I've always thought that for my EV, the dipstick gets screwed in to check the oil level. You mean I'm doing it wrong? ???
-
I've always thought that for my EV, the dipstick gets screwed in to check the oil level. You mean I'm doing it wrong? ???
Like I said, that's how most Guzzisti seem to interpret it on Cali models.
-
The early V7C owner's manual specifies to check the oil level with the dipstick screwed in, that could explain the confusion. Though the new manual is clear; dipstick unscrewed.
-
On our Breva, for it's first oil change I got 1.8 lits, put it in, warmed it up and then checked the level. It was exactly on the full mark with the dipstick screwed in.
I shall therefore continue to check with the stick screwed in. :pop
-
The early V7C owner's manual specifies to check the oil level with the dipstick screwed in, that could explain the confusion. Though the new manual is clear; dipstick unscrewed.
Screwed IN, or screwed UP? (just curious).
Muzz, guess that's something else they changed with the new motor...
Still odd that they were the exception to the norm, but I guess it shouldn't surprise me.
-
I think I know why most Guzzisti believe that you check the oil with the dipstick screwed in.
Once upon a time, a not-too-long time ago, several Guzzisti were discussing how to check the oil in their crankcases: Should it be with the dipstick unscrewed and resting on the threads, or with the dipstick screwed in? After many days of trying to parse the poor translations of their owners' manuals, discussions, and arguments, they were nowhere closer to an answer. Finally, one of them said, "Ah, screw it!" The others, equally disgusted that such a simple matter had stumped them, echoed this sentiment, and we all lived confusedly ever after....
-
:D :BEER: :D
And like John said, it's probably much ado about nothing AT LEAST ON A BIG BLOCK (or even a small-block with sump spacer).
-
On our Breva, for it's first oil change I got 1.8 lits, put it in, warmed it up and then checked the level. It was exactly on the full mark with the dipstick screwed in.
I shall therefore continue to check with the stick screwed in. :pop
Same here.
-
Now that's funny right there!
I think I know why most Guzzisti believe that you check the oil with the dipstick screwed in.
Once upon a time, a not-too-long time ago, several Guzzisti were discussing how to check the oil in their crankcases: Should it be with the dipstick unscrewed and resting on the threads, or with the dipstick screwed in? After many days of trying to parse the poor translations of their owners' manuals, discussions, and arguments, they were nowhere closer to an answer. Finally, one of them said, "Ah, screw it!" The others, equally disgusted that such a simple matter had stumped them, echoed this sentiment, and we all lived confusedly ever after....
-
FYI I just had the oil changed at 2800 miles on my 2013 V7 Stone. First oil change done at 600. Just prior to the change the engine oil level was at full.
I have not noticed any dips in oil level since purchase.
-
Screwed in, screwed out. Measured hot, measured cold. Who cares. Drain the oil, add the correct amount. Now measure it however you want. Note where it is on the dipstick. For those of us with poor memories, make notes in your shop manual of what you did, and then do it the same way from then on. My personal preference is cold, with the dipstick not screwed in. I'm too old to change.
-
Screwed in, screwed out. Measured hot, measured cold. Who cares. Drain the oil, add the correct amount. Now measure it however you want. Note where it is on the dipstick. For those of us with poor memories, make notes in your shop manual of what you did, and then do it the same way from then on. My personal preference is cold, with the dipstick not screwed in. I'm too old to change.
And a good point.
The potential problem is with the tiny oil capacity of a smallblock, IF someone didn't fill it to the specified capacity, but instead just filled it say to the FULL LINE, but with the dipstick unscrewed (on a dual-throttle body motor), cold, on the centerstand - the difference might be significant from HOT, THREADED, UPRIGHT.
Now with the newer single-throttle body motors it might be less of a deal (since it seems they are supposed to be unscrewed, but IF you don't measure and add from scratch you still probably want to make sure it's hot and upright - no?
And yes, I too TEND to check cold as well, but again, I've added the sump spacer, so I've got about a full extra quart of leeway. I might not be so casual about it if I still had less than 2 quarts capacity.
-
It is a bit of a moot point - as drw says, if you know what full looks like, you're good. 1.78l in the V7C corresponds to the full mark on the dipstick when screwed IN. That's also a bit over halfway with the dipstick NOT screwed in. So both are correct in the sense that the owner's manual specifies the level to be between the max and min marks either screwed in or out. In this case the only potential danger is letting the oil level fall below min with the stick screwed in, which we never do anyway, right?. And filled to the full mark with the stick screwed out will result in excessive oil being blown out the breather...full screwed in or halfway between the marks screwed out seems to be mia macchina's natural level.
-
I like having the sump spacer on mine for sure!
Kev, Does the dipstick show the correct level despite the spacer? I understand that the oil sump capacity is increased and thus more oil required, but does the level remain the same relative to the oil fill hole?
-
Kev, Does the dipstick show the correct level despite the spacer? I understand that the oil sump capacity is increased and thus more oil required, but does the level remain the same relative to the oil fill hole?
Yes, and you explained why (the capacity is increased)...what changes isn't the highest point of where the oil sits. What changes is the lowest point. i.e. the spacer makes the bottom of the sump sit lower, so more oil is under the bottom of the dipstick, but the "full" level remains at the same height.
Or put another way, the top of the swimming pool doesn't change, it's just deeper so it holds more water. ;-T
-
When i first got my B750 (in Sep '08, it's a leftover '07) I was under the understanding to measure it warm, while upright with the dipstick not screwed in. On our first long trip I found I was losing oil. I'd top up as per above yet when I'd check it a few hundred miles later it would be low (about 1/2 way down the stick.
I later consulted Micha at MI and he said to check it warm with the dipstick screwed in. Measured such, the oil is always full and does not drop after 500 miles. I was overfilling before and the engine was seeking it's own happy level.
-
When i first got my B750 (in Sep '08, it's a leftover '07) I was under the understanding to measure it warm, while upright with the dipstick not screwed in. On our first long trip I found I was losing oil. I'd top up as per above yet when I'd check it a few hundred miles later it would be low (about 1/2 way down the stick.
I later consulted Micha at MI and he said to check it warm with the dipstick screwed in. Measured such, the oil is always full and does not drop after 500 miles. I was overfilling before and the engine was seeking it's own happy level.
Based on that anecdote I believe I (and a few others here) can confirm that the NEW motor, like in the Stone, is checked: warm, upright, NOT screwed in. ;-T
-
sounds like alot of hair splitting to me
1 cm ( = 10 mm ;) ) on that dipstick is equal to 0,2 liter.
Total amount to be poured in is 1,8 liter. Overfilling will cause spitting, underfilling won't make anyone happy.
They are sensitive creatures, the smallblocks.
But we love'em. :-*
-
1 cm ( = 10 mm ;) ) on that dipstick is equal to 0,2 liter.
Total amount to be poured in is 1,8 liter. Overfilling will cause spitting, underfilling won't make anyone happy.
They are sensitive creatures, the smallblocks.
But we love'em. :-*
Again, just to be clear (and it's probably my fault for introducing other model talk to this thread in the form of big blocks), but for newbies that read this in the future, you are talking about the now older design DUAL THROTTLE BODY MOTOR and not the new SINGLE THROTTLE BODY MOTOR like that which is found in the Stone. ;-T
I know you and most posters get the difference, but I'm just worried about future newbs.
-
Again, just to be clear (and it's probably my fault for introducing other model talk to this thread in the form of big blocks), but for newbies that read this in the future, you are talking about the now older design DUAL THROTTLE BODY MOTOR and not the new SINGLE THROTTLE BODY MOTOR like that which is found in the Stone. ;-T
I know you and most posters get the difference, but I'm just worried about future newbs.
Dozzat make any difference to the amount of oil?
-
Dozzat make any difference to the amount of oil?
Can't say for sure.
Same sump spacer fits on both motors.
BUT reports agree with my experience that the new Stones don't seem to be burning a drop of oil, or otherwise finding their own level when checked hot/upright/not threaded.
And Guzzi does claim some difference in this motor to reduce oil consumption.
So though I can't say why, the differences seem to be there.
-
I'm a 2013 V7 Stone Newbie and I have a somewhat different oil level checking question. The Stone doesn't come with a center stand, so, whenever I'm off the bike it is on the side stand, leaning, not vertical. My question is, how am I expected to check the oil? Am I supposed to reach down while mounted and holding the bike upright, unscrew the filler cap/dipstick, wipe it off, re-insert it (without screwing it in), pull it out again, read the level, put the cap back and screw it in, all while managing to keep the bike vertical and not drop it? Or, can the oil level be read accurately while the bike is leaning on its side stand?
I know it's possible to get an aftermarket center stand for the 2013 Stone, but it apparently doesn't play well with the US version of the side stand, which has to be removed (according to Moto Guzzi). If I can have only one stand, I'd prefer to keep the side stand.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Sam
-
Sam, the US centerstand works fine. I have one. Before that I had two techniques for checking the oil.
In the garage, prop the side stand up w a block, to get the bike close to vertical.
On the road, get an idea to what the right oil level looks like when the bike's leaned over. That"ll go until you get back to your garage.
Joe
-
1. Is there a shop stand available for the V7? Put it on one of those.
2. Have a friend help you hold the bike vertical while you check the oil level.
3. Unscrew the dipstick and wipe it. Stand up and balance the bike vertical, hold on to the hand grip with your left hand to keep the bike upright, while bending down to re-insert and then pull out the dipstick and check it. Then return the bike to the side stand, Then put the dipstick back.
-
1. Is there a shop stand available for the V7? Put it on one of those.
2. Have a friend help you hold the bike vertical while you check the oil level.
3. Unscrew the dipstick and wipe it. Stand up and balance the bike vertical, hold on to the hand grip with your left hand to keep the bike upright, while bending down to re-insert and then pull out the dipstick and check it. Then return the bike to the side stand, Then put the dipstick back.
ä
- and using a file make a mark at that level. ;)
-
Even if you were supposed to screw it in, you could make a note of level when screwed in compared to just dipped then just dip from there. :pop
Here's what my V& 2012 manual says:
Switch off the engine and wait at least five minutes to allow the lubricant to drain back into the sump.
Keep the vehicle upright with both wheels on the ground.
Unscrew and remove the cap with dipstick.
Clean dipstick.
Refit the cap with dipstick into its hole without tightening.
Remove the cap with dipstick.
Check oil level by means of the oil dipstick.
The oil level is correct when it close to the "MAX" mark.
I just had a dealer service and I checked the oil level when I got it home and it was an inch over MAX level. The dealer said he'd take some oil out "if it makes me happy". I don't think it has anything to do with happiness, it's just about what's the correct amount of oil. Next time I'll do it myself with a measuring cup/
-
I'd be tempted to take some out if it was overfull.
I mean, why add the potential for excessive breather work or oil foaming if it is high enough that the throws are churning it?
The bigger issue is why a dealer tech would not have the professionalism to CHECK THEIR OWN WORK ON SOMETHING SO SIMPLE.
It would take what, a minute to use a hand oil pump to remove a half liter or whatever amount of extra oil is in there and return the bike to the customer as spec'd.
It MAY not make any real world difference, except the perception of lack of care on the part of the dealer tech. And that's a huge difference.
-
If you add the amount specified in the manual, it will read overfull. Mine has been that way since day one. I just changed the oil at the first service and it reads overfull. I am not taking any out.
Not true for my '13 Stone, or for my '16 Stone. Measuring in exactly 2 L results in the oil coming exactly to the top mark. I do suspect that some oil bottles are overly generous and when I once just dumped in 2 1-L bottles of oil I ended up being overfilled (but by much less than 1 inch).
-
Oil capacity specs are funny things.
Some manufacturers give you the spec for a drain and refill.
Some manufacturers give you the spec for a complete refill of a dry motor which CAN be (depending on motor design) significantly different.
Some manufacturers take the oil filter capacity into the account/some don't.
Honda is one example that has done all three on different motors/at different times.
IF a manufacturer gives you the dry refill or a capacity that doesn't include the oil filter, you CAN under or overfill the motor to a not insignificant amount. Which is why on day one of mechanic's school people are taught to "add fluids gradually, checking the level often".
Now Guzzi complicates things even further with their sometimes confusing/conflicting oil dipstick procedures AND the fact that some of their motors seem happiest if they are NOT topped up all the way.
I dunno - it does seem like much ado about nothing, but I guess we all want to know that the level is "correct".
-
Oil capacity specs are funny things.
Some manufacturers give you the spec for a drain and refill.
Some manufacturers give you the spec for a complete refill of a dry motor which CAN be (depending on motor design) significantly different.
Some manufacturers take the oil filter capacity into the account/some don't.
Honda is one example that has done all three on different motors/at different times.
IF a manufacturer gives you the dry refill or a capacity that doesn't include the oil filter, you CAN under or overfill the motor to a not insignificant amount. Which is why on day one of mechanic's school people are taught to "add fluids gradually, checking the level often".
Now Guzzi complicates things even further with their sometimes confusing/conflicting oil dipstick procedures AND the fact that some of their motors seem happiest if they are NOT topped up all the way.
I dunno - it does seem like much ado about nothing, but I guess we all want to know that the level is "correct".
I'm curious about whether you ran the engine before you checked the oil level after you put in the 2 L. If not, the oil filter might not be full and, naturally, there would be too much in the sump.
-
I'm curious about whether you ran the engine before you checked the oil level after you put in the 2 L. If not, the oil filter might not be full and, naturally, there would be too much in the sump.
I put more like 3L in my sump, so I'm assuming you quoted the wrong guy. :wink:
-
I hope there isn't this much confusion in the nuclear power plant manuals.
-
What changes is the lowest point. i.e. the spacer makes the bottom of the sump sit lower, so more oil is under the bottom of the dipstick, but the "full" level remains at the same height.
Just curious,
Does the level of the pump suction change or does it just pull from the top of the deeper pool?
-
Just curious,
Does the level of the pump suction change or does it just pull from the top of the deeper pool?
I don't remember, it was too long ago.
But thinking about it I would assume the pickup point was integral to the pan and dropped.
-
Just curious,
Does the level of the pump suction change or does it just pull from the top of the deeper pool?
The intake is close to the bottom of the pan, so with a sump spacer, the intake is still at the bottom. Of a deeper pool.
Here's the pan. The intake is below the yellow screen.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5250/13958448366_8f51e10933_m.jpg)
-
The intake is close to the bottom of the pan, so with a sump spacer, the intake is still at the bottom. Of a deeper pool.
Here's the pan. The intake is below the yellow screen.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5250/13958448366_8f51e10933_m.jpg)
That's what I was envisioning. Thanks. :thumb:
-
I hope there isn't this much confusion in the nuclear power plant manuals.
Thankfully Italy mothballed the last of their nuclear power plants in 1990.
Apparently the turbines weren't greased properly. :evil:
-
Good grief. Sorry for pulling this thread out of the grave, but:
My 2013 V7 Stone drips oil from the crankcase breather return hose when I put more than 1.5L of oil in. 1.5L...no drips and dry airbox. 1.6L...oil drip.
Further, the service manual shows this dipstick:
(https://i.ibb.co/QYnCW26/MG-Dip-Stick-Manual.png) (https://ibb.co/QYnCW26)
Lies!! The pic below shows my actual dipstick, and the bottom arrow shows my oil level with 1.6L. Is that line across the hash mark at the mid point the full mark? Or is it the halfway mark? And why does checking the oil have to be like brain surgery? I know...it's the Italians. Those Italians.
(https://i.ibb.co/9w5xwMS/MG-Dipstick-Level.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9w5xwMS)
Some on here are running the full 2.0L that the manual calls for with no issues. When I try 2.0L, it reads way past the hash marks (to the left in the pic). 1.6 seems like it would be the lower limit for safety. If anyone has a dipstick like the one pictured, can you please just tell me where is the full mark and where is the half-full mark? I will buy you an IPA if I ever meet you.
I think I'm going to pull the starter this weekend and clean or replace all the breather lines and the "Y" fitting with a stainless one I found on Amazin. Just to rule out that potential cause. This bike currently has 3,000 miles on the clock. As always, thanks for your thoughts and rants.
Best,
Mike
-
TheH, funny this subject just came up last week at a small Guzzi gathering and I took the opportunity to check my air box and oil level that morning in the garage.
First, because I don't want to make any assumptions you ARE checking the oil with the bike held upright, and on a level surface right?!? And you're just sticking it in and not threading it all the way?!?
I still check mine:
* Overnight cold
* On the centerstand
* Stick inserted but not threaded.
I run it about halfway between that lower line and the top of the crosshatches.
It had been about 7500 miles since I'd checked the air box and there was only a small amount of oil in there. I could easily wipe it all up with a single blue paper shop rag.
I should add that I do have the extended sump and I think I tend to run more like only 2.5 qts in it these days.
When I was running closer to 3.0 I think it was using or carrying over some, but these days I rarely add a drop. Maybe once in a full oil change.
-
I have the same dipstick. I treat the level shown not as gospel, but as indicators. If the level (oil hot, upright, on two wheels, stick sitting on lip) is at or below the line, it needs more. If the whole of the hatched part is oily, there's too much. If oil is in the air box, it's over full. On my 2014 Special, I put in 1.9L at the oil change. That gives me only a little oil vapour in the airbox. If the level goes past the line, I add in 200-300ml, or thereabouts. This particular bike doesn't seem to use much oil between changes. Some, but not much. Perhaps a little more lately than when it was newer.
-
Kev:
Thanks for the tips. Yeah, oil is checked with the bike level and dipstick just dipped, not threaded in. BTW, I see you're in Medford. I'm in Brielle...just a straight shot down route 70 to the shore! I have yet to see another Guzzi on the road in my 3 months of ownership. Good to know there are some "locals"!
Malik:
Thanks for confirming that the lower horizontal line is in fact the low oil level indicator. It makes sense in spite of the service manual showing a different configuration.
In light of that, I'm going to add another 100cc of oil just to be safe, for a total of 1.7L. Obviously, my oil leak is from a different issue, either a bad crimp on a crankcase vent hose clamp, or a clogged hose, or a broken "y" fitting or some such thing. I will explore this weekend.
Also will be installing the new Mosfet VR that Jack sent me. I wimped out and got the "quickie" kit. I just don't feel like pulling the fuel tank again. Thank you sirs!
Best,
Mike
-
Kev:
Thanks for the tips. Yeah, oil is checked with the bike level and dipstick just dipped, not threaded in. BTW, I see you're in Medford. I'm in Brielle...just a straight shot down route 70 to the shore! I have yet to see another Guzzi on the road in my 3 months of ownership. Good to know there are some "locals"!
Best,
Mike
Awesome... Actually there are more of us around here than you'd think. We have a small MGNOC group and forum. We meet for breakfast or lunch at times and have in the past taken trips together and to rallys.
Actually our fearless (I mean that) leader is in Manahawkin not that far south.
Hmm come to think of it in overdue to hit up the Scottish butcher in Brick.
Anyway, don't every hesitate to reach out if you need a hand.
And if you're interested in checking out local happenings drop by the forum: https://mgnocnj.forumotion.com/
Kev
-
Roper has this down to perfection: Do it all right one time, put the bike on the sidestand, check it the way you are going to check it, and then mark the stick accordingly.
-
Pretty much...
But with a standard capacity smallblock, a little hair splitting might be helpful - the darn things only have a capacity of less than 2 liters stock.
I like having the sump spacer on mine for sure!
Kev, how much additional capacity does the spacer offer?
-
Kev, how much additional capacity does the spacer offer?
Approx 1L
http://www.guzzipower.com/store/Sumspacer.html
Not sure if they are compatible with the III models (though I don't know why they wouldn't be as I thought the block was unchanged).
-
The small block engine may hold “only” 2 liters, but remember, the gearbox is separate and holds a liter of gear oil. A lot of bikes hold 3 liters of motor oil that must lubricate both the engine and the gearbox, so I’m not sure it is correct to think that the small block contains a barely adequate amount of oil.
The problem with adding a sump spacer is the 50% extra oil volume causes the oil to come to operating temperature more slowly after a cold start, thus increasing total engine wear by at least 50%.
Discuss. :whip2:
-
I'm a 2013 V7 Stone Newbie and I have a somewhat different oil level checking question. The Stone doesn't come with a center stand, so, whenever I'm off the bike it is on the side stand, leaning, not vertical.
Sam
Sam. Get yourself a standard size American brick. A used one will do. When placed under the stock V7 side stand, the bike is dead level.
-
The problem with adding a sump spacer is the 50% extra oil volume causes the oil to come to operating temperature more slowly after a cold start, thus increasing total engine wear by at least 50%.
Discuss. :whip2:
I think that's a fallacy. Engine wear was always touted to be greatest at STARTUP not WARM-UP. Oil pressure builds in seconds. Not to mention modern oils, especially synthetics provide much better protection than they used to.
No forget fallacy, I'm going with hogwash.
-
I'm in agreement here. It would take some serious evaluation to determine if any additional wear was created, not to mention 50% as a starting point.
And further, even with shared duty as most modern motorcycle engines now use with oil preforming all duties simultaneously, there is still overall the total increased volume present at all times. I won't pretend to know if that is pertinent or not but it at least asks a question that would need to be addressed.
Maybe the best answer will come when we all have 100,000 miles on our V7's, some with sump, and some without. I have 85,000 to go, but I do plan on getting there.
-
Awesome... Actually there are more of us around here than you'd think. We have a small MGNOC group and forum. We meet for breakfast or lunch at times and have in the past taken trips together and to rallys.
Actually our fearless (I mean that) leader is in Manahawkin not that far south.
Hmm come to think of it in overdue to hit up the Scottish butcher in Brick.
Anyway, don't every hesitate to reach out if you need a hand.
And if you're interested in checking out local happenings drop by the forum: https://mgnocnj.forumotion.com/
Kev
Ha! Do you mean Cameron's on Brick Blvd.? I prefer to go on "Bag Pipe Night". Try the haggis, neeps and tatties and tip your waitress! Haha!
Actually, I've never been there, but let me know if you're heading that way!
Best,
Mike
-
Ha! Do you mean Cameron's on Brick Blvd.? I prefer to go on "Bag Pipe Night". Try the haggis, neeps and tatties and tip your waitress! Haha!
Actually, I've never been there, but let me know if you're heading that way!
Best,
Mike
:thumb:
I just gotta call them and check if they have the Irish White Pudding back in stock .... mmmmmmm. I ran out early this year and they were having problems with their supplier for that one! Hope they got it back! I'll go and buy 6 of the 1# packages and keep em frozen till I need em!
Will keep ya in mind!
-
I think that's a fallacy. Engine wear was always touted to be greatest at STARTUP not WARM-UP. Oil pressure builds in seconds. Not to mention modern oils, especially synthetics provide much better protection than they used to.
No forget fallacy, I'm going with hogwash.
Kev. Aren’t you at least a little bit nervous you are wearing out your engine faster with your sump spacer and all that extra cold sluggish oil? :whip2:
-
Kev. Aren’t you at least a little bit nervous you are wearing out your engine faster with your sump spacer and all that extra cold sluggish oil? :whip2:
:boozing: :boozing: :boozing:
NOPE
But I suspect you knew that already. :evil:
-
I, for one, am willing to accept the fact that my bike will wear out "50% faster than the average one" regardless of how much oil is in the crankcase, since I'm already convinced that it was built on a Monday morning in Mandello del Lario, after Guiseppe drank entirely too much Grappa over the weekend. It's just a theory.
Best,
Mike
-
I, for one, am willing to accept the fact that my bike will wear out "50% faster than the average one" regardless of how much oil is in the crankcase, since I'm already convinced that it was built on a Monday morning in Mandello del Lario, after Guiseppe drank entirely too much Grappa over the weekend. It's just a theory.
Best,
Mike
I got Luigi's Friday 4pm gearbox after his missus gave him garlic salami once too often for lunch..... :evil: and he lost his grease pot!