Wildguzzi.com
General Category => Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only => Topic started by: Unkept on March 08, 2014, 05:06:47 PM
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Hey WildGuzzi
I just thought I'd share in my troubles. ;D I've torn the V11 LeMans apart, it looks like it's exploded in my garage. ;-T
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010788.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010787.jpg)
The main reason why I've dug into the bike is because of this nasty oil leak from my from timing cover...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010817.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010820.jpg)
... and I need to pull the Ohlins shock for a rebuild.
I'll be pulling the swingarm soon, checking it's bearings and inspecting the front u-joint.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010808.jpg)
So I took pictures of each of the swingarm pivot bolts. I've been told to take note of the exposed threads (will also measure this of course) to be sure to line up the swingarm correctly on re-assembly.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010796.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010795.jpg)
Can you tell which side is which? Winner gets an internet cookie. ;D Also, spot the hose clamps! :D
I found that you can't access the timing cover bolts without removing the front swingarm, because on the 02+ V11 Sports they welded additional cross bracing in there which block access to the timing case.... ::)
Before I did that though, I had thought it wise to remove the oil cooler first... WRONG.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010794.jpg)
One of the bolts (replaced by Guzzi I noticed... mine were hex heads, new style are button/allen key) had a head snap off when I went to remove the bolt. The other three came clean, no issues! :D
When removing the front forks, I found that the seals are basically shot. Not surprising, over 54k on these babies I'm sure...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010802.jpg)
Only the "right" fork is leaking truly... and it's also way to easy too compress. :( Light fork rebuild time. :BEER:
So I received my new rear tire, a Michelin Road Pilot 4 GT in 170/60-17 instead of 180/55-17, and so I thought it would be best to remove the rotor on the rear wheel to better facilitate the tire change.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010814.jpg)
Bad idea yet again... ;D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010813.jpg)
So the loose bolts are ones which came easily. I soaked them all in pbblaster and used my heat gun to remove them, but three were stubborn. I tried to use my easy out on them... and you can see where one bolt is partially filled with my easy out which snapped in half. :'(
I was trying to get my rear drive repainted, as it's had flaky paint since before I ever had the bike... but the local painter guy doesn't seem to want to tackle it. He thinks I should powder coat it, but that means a full disassemble as you can't powder coat without ruining the seals, etc... Not sure what to do on this front?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010789.jpg)
Eventually I'd like to repaint/refinish the whole bike. It has bad paint literally everywhere. Here is the flaking cylinder paint!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010806.jpg)
The factory frame sticker is toast, but threads like Canuck's make me want to print a new replica to stick in it's place. ;D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010807.jpg)
Rust on my fairing frame...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010804.jpg)
Fairing and Ti cans laying to the side. The fairing needs repainting/repair since my accident in 2012.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010798.jpg)
Love my, no longer available :(, Joe Kenny headguards! I need a new spark plug cap/boot.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010816.jpg)
Here is a goody I received recently... FBF crossover. ;D Ti+FBF crossover= fun!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010791.jpg)
I'm trying to clean up the exhaust, but the headers are kinda nasty. Not sure, but maybe replacement or ceramic coating is best?
The LeMans must be patient, as this is a lot of work and I have limited time and budget.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010792.jpg)
SO my good friend Chuck has offered help on these issues, I'll re
port back when I get things done... **C
Here is Lindsey's Breva, happily watching me work... while it's 100% intact and shiny in that lovely... scratch-less, perfect, red paint. :D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010790.jpg)
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Alrighty, now! A project! Woo hoo.. Should be a good thread.
I was trying to get my rear drive repainted, as it's had flaky paint since before I ever had the bike... but the local painter guy doesn't seem to want to tackle it. He thinks I should powder coat it, but that means a full disassemble as you can't powder coat without ruining the seals, etc... Not sure what to do on this front?
That's a no brainer.. one that I'm obviously qualified for. ;D Strip it with aircraft stripper, and paint it with Harley wrinkle paint. (your motorcycle won't immediately start turning into every bar you see) ~;
See the Lario rehab thread for ideas on painting your engine, etc.
Bring that wheel/rotor down. Pup. ~; Don't break any more eze outs in a bolt.. ;D I have carbide,and know how to use it.. What made you think you needed top get that rotor off, anyway?? ~; :BEER:
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If I had everything broken that far down, I'd go with the powder coat.
Good luck with the project, Joe.
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timing cover just looks like a leaking camtiming or oilpressure sensor. Hard to see in this neglected state
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timing cover just looks like a leaking camtiming or oilpressure sensor. Hard to see in this neglected state
You are probably right, Paul.. normally you'd see more on the bottom of the timing cover if it was leaking..
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Hey WildGuzzi
I just thought I'd share in my troubles. ;D I've torn the V11 LeMans apart, it looks like it's exploded in my garage. ;-T
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-8-14%20LeMans%20repairs/P1010788.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p518/Stormtruck2/MG%201972%20Eldorado/DSCN0040.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/Stormtruck2/media/MG%201972%20Eldorado/DSCN0040.jpg.html)
Now that we know what bikes you aren't riding to Cedar Vale, which one are you going to ride??
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p518/Stormtruck2/Moto%20Guzzi%201996%20California%201100%20Carbbie/DSCN0360.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/Stormtruck2/media/Moto%20Guzzi%201996%20California%201100%20Carbbie/DSCN0360.jpg.html)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p518/Stormtruck2/Moto%20Guzzi%20Ballabio/DSCN0368.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/Stormtruck2/media/Moto%20Guzzi%20Ballabio/DSCN0368.jpg.html)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p518/Stormtruck2/2007%20Moto%20Guzzi%20Norge/DSCN0652.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/Stormtruck2/media/2007%20Moto%20Guzzi%20Norge/DSCN0652.jpg.html)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p518/Stormtruck2/Moto%20Guzzi%20Centauros/DSCN0363.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/Stormtruck2/media/Moto%20Guzzi%20Centauros/DSCN0363.jpg.html)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p518/Stormtruck2/Moto%20Guzzi%20Centauros/f7ec45bc.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/Stormtruck2/media/Moto%20Guzzi%20Centauros/f7ec45bc.jpg.html)
Or will you be riding my grandsons favorite ride??
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p518/Stormtruck2/gunner090211_zps92bd3dce.jpg) (http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/Stormtruck2/media/gunner090211_zps92bd3dce.jpg.html)
My offer stands Kept!! Good luck with the resto. Thats not a repair but a restoration!!!!
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Good luck on the project. ;-T
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If I had everything broken that far down, I'd go with the powder coat.
Good luck with the project, Joe.
You'd tear down the rear drive just for paint? Not me.. ;D "If it ain't broke, don't fix it.." He's already fixing some stuff that wasn't broke. ~; :BEER:
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timing cover just looks like a leaking camtiming or oilpressure sensor. Hard to see in this neglected state
Tomorrow I'll be cleaning it up for a better pic, but I'm also getting some oil weeping on the other side of the engine, around the timing case.
It's also making a rattle, so I am inspecting the timing chain. I have a "new" tension-er I received from a forum member here too, which I may be using. :)
You'd tear down the rear drive just for paint? Not me.. ;D "If it ain't broke, don't fix it.." He's already fixing some stuff that wasn't broke. ~; :BEER:
Key word, wasn't broke... ;D
I'll probably paint it, but I don't have the right arrangement... hmmm, heater and a cardboard box? I have almost zero experience painting.
Thanks for the responses all.
-Joe
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I'll probably paint it, but I don't have the right arrangement... hmmm, heater and a cardboard box? I have almost zero experience painting.
Bring it down, too. I'll show you how to do this stuff. It's going to cost ya. I prefer an IPA.. ;D
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Bring it down, too. I'll show you how to do this stuff. It's going to cost ya. I prefer an IPA.. ;D
International Police Association? ;)
Thanks Chuck, I'll need all the help I can get...
I will continue to tear into the bike, and find things to break. ;D
Oh and Stormtruck, thanks for the offer! The Eldo or the Norge would be interesting... but I hope my bike will be good to go before it gets "warm" outside. :D
Also, you calling this a restoration... only makes the task seem more daunting. ::)
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International Police Association? ;)
Thanks Chuck, I'll need all the help I can get...
I will continue to tear into the bike, and find things to break. ;D
Oh and Stormtruck, thanks for the offer! The Eldo or the Norge would be interesting... but I hope my bike will be good to go before it gets "warm" outside. :D
Also, you calling this a restoration... only makes the task seem more daunting. ::)
I know you noticed that the Eldo was in the list of photos of bikes you WEREN'T riding to CV. :D ;D
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Any work I do is to keep the hulks on the road.
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I know you noticed that the Eldo was in the list of photos of bikes you WEREN'T riding to CV. :D ;D
It was a nice try, right?
Any work I do is to keep the hulks on the road.
I'm making the same attempt.
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Brake rotor bolts are typically installed with red loctite. They'll come out like nice and easy if you use a small oxy-acetylene torch and focus the flame right into the well on the bolt for a few seconds. Works on the cheeze-soft hex head bolts used on the LeMans IV anyway. I destroyed several of them before trying the torch for about 5 seconds.
Tobit.
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Brake rotor bolts are typically installed with red loctite. They'll come out like nice and easy if you use a small oxy-acetylene torch and focus the flame right into the well on the bolt for a few seconds. Works on the cheeze-soft hex head bolts used on the LeMans IV anyway. I destroyed several of them before trying the torch for about 5 seconds.
Tobit.
Thanks Tobit! Chuck related the same sentiments, but I made the mistake of trying... thinking my heat gun would be good enough. :-\
Learning the hard way, that's usually my way...
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Good Deal! We need more of these types of threads around here!
;-T
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Alrighty, now! A project! Woo hoo.. Should be a good thread.
Wow! A good thread indeed! Popcorn's in the oven.....
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Admire your fortitude.. can i bring my Lemans over for a freshen up? I BTDT on the broken bolts etc..with many bikes, not my Lemans yet cause I don;t think it needs all that.. the timing gasket does weep a bit but the oil level never drops between changes.
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Admire your fortitude.. can i bring my Lemans over for a freshen up? I BTDT on the broken bolts etc..with many bikes, not my Lemans yet cause I don;t think it needs all that.. the timing gasket does weep a bit but the oil level never drops between changes.
Tis' the case with my timing case as well...
Today's update:
To remove the swingarm, you have to first remove the two shiny jam nuts located on your porkchops... mmm jam and porkchops.
In case you need to know, it's a 30mm nut, and fortunately for me I have a socket left over from an axle removal on my wife's old Focus.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090867.jpg)
I showed some pics before of the exposed threads on the swingarm pivot bolts. Well, here are my measurements. Pretty close on each side, and honestly there is probably a better setup than this. I'm sure these are the factory setup as the rust tells me it's never been removed...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090826.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090823.jpg)
After the nuts are removed, and you took your measurements (to set it back up, and have it aligned correctly) removing the bolts is pretty easy. Grab your allen key and loosen!
When the bolt is about ready to go, use your free hand to raise the swingarm... it will then allow you to pull the bolt out from the porkchop.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090831.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090832.jpg)
Nasty! Those bolts both have scorch marks, and one even has a small strip of metal on it... :o They also smelled terrible, almost like burnt transmission fluid. Any ideas on that?
Swingarm is free!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090828.jpg)
Gross... :-[
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090827.jpg)
Cleaned up, and photographed for the bearing information.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090864.jpg)
Well they don't look "too" bad after they were cleaned up, but when I stuck my finger in there to spin them around... but were notchy. One was at least quiet about it, but the other one let out small screechy noises. :D
Guzzi charges over $150 for these, a piece! :o So I'll be shopping around, and I'll report everything I end up buying on this thread when I'm done. Actually, these look to be "Made in the USA", so I take it back... maybe the swingarm was removed at some point. I doubt the original bearings were from the USA! :D
I thought I'd dig in deeper now that the swingarm is out of there.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090834.jpg)
That u-joint cage had to go!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090835.jpg)
That job is a right PITA as the bolts around the cage are close to the frame bracing.
More grease on my bike than a burger.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090836.jpg)
Driveshaft free, that is one expensive piece of greasy Guzzi gear. Hopefully the u-joints are a-ok, anyone here have advice on testing this? They appears to be smooth, no grinding, and I can't feel slop by hand...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090858.jpg)
I grabbed this output shaft and tried to wiggle it, looking for play in it's bearing. I hope this is something which hardly ever fails... seems OK to me at the moment, just dirty like everything else!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090859.jpg)
That's it for now in the back end, I'll be pulling the shock soon... just have to take the bloody tank off first!
In other news, I have a Bi-Tubo steering damper... it's been set at 0 tension forever now, because it's a right POS! :D If you compress the strut by hand, you can hear this thing grind on the inside... I may try to rebuild this, someone did on V11Lemans I believe... the replacement for the Bi-Tubo costs MORE than the Ohlins! :o Problem is, the Ohlins won't fit with the V11 LeMans fairing's chin spoiler thingy. Maybe with mods? <shrug>
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090837.jpg)
Here is the oil weep on the other side of the engine, seems to come from the gasket to me?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090840-1.jpg)
I have this blade type tensioner, Stucchi, I received FREE (Guzzi Content!!!) from Andrew Thomas Evans here on the forum. Thanks Andrew. :) I hope it will work, I know it's not the stock style.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090854.jpg)
I will be pulling the front subframe next, not looking forward to this... I don't have the air tools I should need. ;D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090853.jpg)
Look at that rust! I'm guessing this was from when MPH swapped the engine case, their tools may have scratched the frame paint off, due to the warranty repair of the flaking paint on the engine. Ironic? ;) No scuff on MPH though, don't get me wrong. Guzzi just cheaped out on paint for these bikes... made in...
2001! For those of you looking for V11 Sports, I'd skip to 2003 manufacture if I were you. ;) The 2001-2002 bikes aren't a lost cause, I just think they are worth less due to the almost guaranteed issues you will have with them.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090868.jpg)
Not sure how the PO managed to scratch the paint on the tank in these odd places, this is the front of the tank, next to the dash.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090873.jpg)
I've also been chasing a 30amp fuse melting situation since I bought the bike, I think it's narrowed down to fuse box or battery ground... <shrug> Some of you may remember me changing a worn starter because of this issue. Back in Iowa! :D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090847.jpg)
Here's my headlamp, with rusty chrome ring... if you have a V11 LeMans, check the ring by pulling the gasket between the fairing on the headlamp. It may be rusty! My guess is that it traps water in that gasket, maybe put some vaseline or something around the ring to prevent the corrosion? Any thoughts? The ring is no longer available from Guzzi, btw... They changed headlamps after the 02 LeMans.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090849.jpg)
In other news, I have a new battery going in. Odyssey PC545 going in, Ballistic Lithium coming out. Anyone want a 16 cell? It seems to "work" but I can't agree with it. Warm weather guys would be fine, but I had to modify the tray to fit this square shaped battery. PM me if you want one for a decent price...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090848.jpg)
I thought I'd share this as well. I bought this siphon hose years ago on Amazon, it has a brass end piece with a glass marble inside. Works wonders, as you simply shake the brass end around in your gas tank, and viola! You gasoline flows on it's own into your catch can.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090865.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090866.jpg)
Here is what keeps me going, I want to finish this project so I can put these beautiful Verlicchi handlebars on.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090855.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090856.jpg)
The Breva looks on in horror, at the transformation of her brother.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090875.jpg)
That's all I've got for now gang. Hope you are enjoying my pain and suffering. :BEER: It is all fun though...
-Joe
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Great stuff, Joe. ;-T Attaboy. I know for a fact how long it takes to document this stuff.
Driveshaft free, that is one expensive piece of greasy Guzzi gear. Hopefully the u-joints are a-ok, anyone here have advice on testing this? They appears to be smooth, no grinding, and I can't feel slop by hand...
I'd say you just tested them. ;D The swing arm bearings could be oem. Guzzi sources some 'Merican stuff.. those bearings are cheap at your local bearing house. (Guzzi content) ;)
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I am giving you a standing ovation for taking on this endeavour Kept! :bow And a kudo's to ATE for the tensioner transfer. ;-T I put one of those on the Ballabio and it makes a nice difference. It got rid of a stumble betweeen 3-4,000 RPM she always had. Nice design and dead nuts easy to put in. Thank you for a great thread and write up! ;-T Carry on!
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Thanks guys. I just hope I can get this thing back up and running before the warm weather truly hits... otherwise I'm stealing the Breva! ;D
Chuck, I do think I can get those bearings cheaper, but to pull the old bearings... I may need your assistance. I've read horror stories on the LeMans board. :o
Edit: Found the bearing on Amazon, may look at a bearing shop as well just in case...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VG9APC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VG9APC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn) $62.00 shipped.
Also, on MG Cycle!
http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2838 (http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2838) $55.40, without shipping.
Bearing is an SKF 3303 A-2RS1TN9/MT33
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In Mn we have Gopher bearing, they'd probably be about $30-40. maybe you have a Hoosier bearing there?
your the MAN for doing that project!
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Joe, Pit Posse, (now owned by Summit Racing), sells a wheel bearing removal tool. About 60 bucks IIRC. As long as you have a clear path from both ends, that tool will make getting those bearings out a piece of cake. You place a slotted insert into the bearing center, then drive a wedge into the slot. Then you hit the rod with the wedge on the other end and the bearing falls out with a couple of wacks.
It's really a good tool to have for such things.
http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html
John Henry
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In Mn we have Gopher bearing, they'd probably be about $30-40. maybe you have a Hoosier bearing there?
your the MAN for doing that project!
Thanks Brad,
I searched, and my closest bearing supplier has the bearing for $80+... at the least that was the closest I found in my quick Google search. I'll try again before I buy. :)
Joe, Pit Posse, (now owned by Summit Racing), sells a wheel bearing removal tool. About 60 bucks IIRC. As long as you have a clear path from both ends, that tool will make getting those bearings out a piece of cake. You place a slotted insert into the bearing center, then drive a wedge into the slot. Then you hit the rod with the wedge on the other end and the bearing falls out with a couple of wacks.
It's really a good tool to have for such things.
http://pitposse.com/whbereset.html
John Henry
Hey John! I like the idea of this tool, but sadly the bearing is a blind bearing... because of the way the V11 swingarm is designed, there is no way at all to drive the bearing out other than with a blind bearing puller. Some guys on the V11 forum weld big washers and a nut to the bearing, and then pull it out... or something crazy like that! ;D I could try my blind bearing puller, I bought it to remove the needle bearing on the rear drive.
Back to work... *sigh*
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Is the set you have?
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/Lario/005-4_zps988d075c.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/Lario/005-4_zps988d075c.jpg.html)
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:+1 Chuck, that's the one! I think I bought it on your reccomendation. :D
I think I should hit the swingarm with a torch for this. Problem is, that'll ruin the paint... oh well... it's already $*%($ed ;)
... I do remember a "put your cookies and swingarm in the oven for 30 minutes" kind of trick too to remove the bearings. I don't think it's a good idea to put it into our cooking over though... :o
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:+1 Chuck, that's the one! I think I bought it on your reccomendation. :D
I think I should hit the swingarm with a torch for this. Problem is, that'll ruin the paint... oh well... it's already $*%($ed ;)
... I do remember a "put your cookies and swingarm in the oven for 30 minutes" kind of trick too to remove the bearings. I don't think it's a good idea to put it into our cooking over though... :o
That puller ought to get it out without a problem. Bearings, by design, are only a light press fit.
Woo hee! Those are pricey bearings. Sealed on both sides.. I'm surprised one failed.
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That puller ought to get it out without a problem. Bearings, by design, are only a light press fit.
Woo hee! Those are pricey bearings. Sealed on both sides.. I'm surprised one failed.
Yeah, they aren't cheap... no luck on anything less than MG Cycle's cost so far. Not that I don't like giving them my money... it's just they'll be getting my money in gaskets, and etc. in Guzzi exclusive parts. ::)
-Joe
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Bummer- someone already mentioned heat. Another bit of hard won knowledge is that standard "Easy Outs" are anything but. The only ones that have worked consistently for me are straight flute types sold by snap on. RE finishing aluminum- your nemesis is "filiform corrosion". It's the microscopic thin layer of oxidation that must be removed before you paint the part. Sure, bead blasting beats the corrosion off- but that also means a total teardown. In my business, we have lots of alum corrosion. You need to etch the surface with acid, then treat with a "conversion coat" to stabilize the surface. Different acids etch different alloys. Aluminum etch kits typically use phosphic- though i don't find it super effective. There's also hydroflouric (Zep-Alum- found where they maintain fleets of bright finished aluminum tractor trailers). It is VERY dangerous to use. Another thought is to contact the folks at Airstream and seee what chemicals they would recommend. Remember- buffing merely folds the corrosion into the surface. The conversion coating is a chromate base that basically neutralizes the surface. Do not etch/prep the surface until you are ready to paint. If it sounds like a pain in the ass- it is. However, teearing it all apart in 4 years to do it over again is as well.
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Bummer- someone already mentioned heat. Another bit of hard won knowledge is that standard "Easy Outs" are anything but. The only ones that have worked consistently for me are straight flute types sold by snap on. RE finishing aluminum- your nemesis is "filiform corrosion". It's the microscopic thin layer of oxidation that must be removed before you paint the part. Sure, bead blasting beats the corrosion off- but that also means a total teardown. In my business, we have lots of alum corrosion. You need to etch the surface with acid, then treat with a "conversion coat" to stabilize the surface. Different acids etch different alloys. Aluminum etch kits typically use phosphic- though i don't find it super effective. There's also hydroflouric (Zep-Alum- found where they maintain fleets of bright finished aluminum tractor trailers). It is VERY dangerous to use. Another thought is to contact the folks at Airstream and seee what chemicals they would recommend. Remember- buffing merely folds the corrosion into the surface. The conversion coating is a chromate base that basically neutralizes the surface. Do not etch/prep the surface until you are ready to paint. If it sounds like a pain in the ass- it is. However, teearing it all apart in 4 years to do it over again is as well.
Wow! Thanks for that. I remember you offering similar advice when I asked about paint/bare aluminum finishes awhile back. Thanks again for the response. I'll have to think deeply... but not too deeply (Spring is coming!) and try to do this right.
-Joe
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Here's another thought- check with your local auto body supply store. They usually have very good, pro quality materials. They must have some prep system for repairing aluminum body panels, like on the high end Audis. Any local body shop that does high end warranty work on Audis should know just what we're talking about.
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I didn't realize the hole didn't go all the way across, but it looks like you have what you need there. Did I understand you can source the bearings locally but there is no real break in price or you are having trouble finding them locally? As you probably already know 3303 denotes the size of the bearing. There would also be a 2RS along with that denoting 2 rubber seals. I wouldn't expect you would have any trouble pulling them out.
Have you checked with NAPA? I have had a lot of success with them for very resonable cost. Worst was I had to wait until tomorrow for them to get something in, but that has not been a issue to me so far.
On a slightly unrelated note, but very important, there is a small needle bearing on the outside of the rear drive. The needles are in there loose. There is no inside race. Be careful not to lose them. That bearing is a pricey little bugger. About 80 bucks so I have heard. If it were me, I would get the needles out of there for now, count them and put them in a baggie with a slip of paper bearing the count. On reassembly, grease will hold them in place until you slip the axel back in.
John Henry
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Here's another thought- check with your local auto body supply store. They usually have very good, pro quality materials. They must have some prep system for repairing aluminum body panels, like on the high end Audis. Any local body shop that does high end warranty work on Audis should know just what we're talking about.
Good idea! I'll see what I can do...
I didn't realize the hole didn't go all the way across, but it looks like you have what you need there. Did I understand you can source the bearings locally but there is no real break in price or you are having trouble finding them locally? As you probably already know 3303 denotes the size of the bearing. There would also be a 2RS along with that denoting 2 rubber seals. I wouldn't expect you would have any trouble pulling them out.
Have you checked with NAPA? I have had a lot of success with them for very resonable cost. Worst was I had to wait until tomorrow for them to get something in, but that has not been a issue to me so far.
On a slightly unrelated note, but very important, there is a small needle bearing on the outside of the rear drive. The needles are in there loose. There is no inside race. Be careful not to lose them. That bearing is a pricey little bugger. About 80 bucks so I have heard. If it were me, I would get the needles out of there for now, count them and put them in a baggie with a slip of paper bearing the count. On reassembly, grease will hold them in place until you slip the axel back in.
John Henry
I think a few locals have the bearing, just not for a better price.
In regards to the needle bearing, BTDT! ;D I found the bearing for relatively cheap on Amazon and replaced it early last year or so?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EDOI04/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EDOI04/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $14.09 shipped, vs Guzzi prices... the one I received was made in Germany as well btw.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51RE%2BzoDkKL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
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Joe- here's another thought:
Strip the paint off the rear drive and....
...leave it natural.
Think about it- so it goes gray after a while, who cares? if you spend a little time to smooth the finish now, it will be easy enough to clean if you're bored and feeling anal. Otherwise, you won't really have to worry about what you spill on it, if a stray rock flys up and chips the finish, etc.
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Joe- here's another thought:
Strip the paint off the rear drive and....
...leave it natural.
Think about it- so it goes gray after a while, who cares? if you spend a little time to smooth the finish now, it will be easy enough to clean if you're bored and feeling anal. Otherwise, you won't really have to worry about what you spill on it, if a stray rock flys up and chips the finish, etc.
That's a lot of another thoughts! ;)
I like this one though, I think it's the question I had asked before... is it ok to have the bare aluminum finish? There was some debate as to whether the aluminum used on modern bikes can stand up to corrosion without any sort of finish... I would love to have the natural aluminum look on the engine, transmission, and rear drive. Seriously.
Any more yays or nays on this? Maybe I should just tape off the frame, etc. and spray down the whole engine and drivetrain and say goodbye to the black paint...
-Joe
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Bare aluminum is fine if you like white freckles.
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Bare aluminum is fine if you like white freckles.
Right... the oxidation. What if I clear coated it? ??? /edit: I did a little reading again on this, apparently the clear doesn't always adhere well... or the finish appears uneven.
Or I just spray parts black again... but I DO like the lighter color/natural looking engine/drivetrains...
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I'll stick by my strip it, paint it with Harley wrinkle paint, and forget about it suggestion. ;)
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I'll stick by my strip it, paint it with Harley wrinkle paint, and forget about it suggestion. ;)
It's the most logical route... I've got other things to fix rather than to worry about repainting the whole bike just this minute. :BEER:
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3-10-14 Update:
So the first thing on my list was to remove my gas tank. So I grabbed one of these to keep gas from spilling on the floor while I removed the gas lines...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100876.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100877.jpg)
... it was a nice try.
While I moved the tank to the side, I heard the sound of Harleys riding around my block... it was in the low 50's today. :winer
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100878.jpg)
So I thought, maybe the Odyssey will fit the Breva? No dice, can't really get the terminal connected on it. :( So maybe the Ballistic Lithium will decide to work? Charge up the Lithium and see what happens...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100879.jpg)
Spoiler: It didn't work. Couldn't start the bike in 50f weather, the battery is toast. :-\ Second warranty claim?
Subaru sitting in the driveway, I'm thinking of replacing the car later this year. I'm tired of working on bikes AND cars... just bikes is ok with me. ;)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100880.jpg)
Soon only the topbox will be left, and Chuck would've taken it off first thing! ;D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100881.jpg)
The airbox has to be removed in order to access the shock.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100882.jpg)
Looky here, a metal fuel filter, novel idea Guzzi! :D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100883.jpg)
Those snorkels have a funny shape, no? Maybe pod filters would've made all of this maintenance easier... hmmm ~;
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100884.jpg)
Anyway, removing the top of the airbox is easy, just two bolts... once you remove the tank of course.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100885.jpg)
Filter is surprisingly clean, seeing as I've never changed it. :-X
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100886.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100887.jpg)
Some oil in the airbox, but nothing crazy. Be sure to unplug the sensor from the front of the airbox!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100889.jpg)
To remove the airbox you have to wiggle the snorkels back (loosen the clamps on the throttle body first).
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100890.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100891.jpg)
Next you must remove two small bolts on brackets behind the gearbox, next to the shock... and then it slides up and out!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100892.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100893.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100894.jpg)
I did a bad job in the beginning of this teardown of tracking my bolts... but I've learned to slow down and place each bolt back where it came from... easier to track later.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100895.jpg)
Almost to the shock! One of my primary goals is to get this baby rebuilt.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100896.jpg)
Place a 19 on each end, or it'll just spin...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100897.jpg)
After that bolt is removed, make sure to remove the brackets for the reservoir and remote preload adjuster knob.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100898.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100899.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100900.jpg)
Mine is jerry rigged with zip ties as my luggage brackets made me have to get creative.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100901.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100902.jpg)
Next is feeding the preload adjuster back through.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100904.jpg)
It confused me at first, am I removing the cable and reattaching it?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100905.jpg)
Then I realized... duh! The main wiring harness is zip tied against it there.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100907.jpg)
Cut those free, and viola! Slip that puppy out.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100908.jpg)
One Ohlins shock, ready to be shipped away for rebuild. Any suggestions?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100909.jpg)
It's looking crazier by the minute.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100910.jpg)
That's all for today...
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I sent mine to Cogent Dynamics. http://www.motocd.com/mc/
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I sent mine to Cogent Dynamics. http://www.motocd.com/mc/
Thanks for that! I'll check them out.
Today I'll have to compile a list of goodies I need from MGCycle, as my wife is currently in the area~ish of their shop... family emergencies...
BUT that means she could save me the shipping fees, and get to meet one of the duo Rick and Gordon. ;-T
Work to be done though... *sigh*
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That's a *really* good job of documentation, Joe.. ;-T Takes a lot of time. For fasteners, I either thread them back where they were, or I have a fair's wheel full of plastic containers that I label. If you know where they came from, it's pretty easy to figure out which go where. I've never torn down a V11S, this will be a great resource.
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I think I read somewhere you were changing out the swing arm bearings.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18327&page=4#entry195560
Man, that bike is dirty, I take mine to the car wash and give it a good squirt with the hot soapy water before starting a project
Aluminium engine paint sure freshens things up, I would use it on the rear drive also.
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Thanks for that link Roy, that was the thread I was thinking of in regards to swingarm bearing removal.
Looks like he painted the rear drive too, cool! I may have to take notes from his thread.
Yep it's dirty. I'll clean everything I can before I reassemble it of course. ;)
I'm pretty tired today... not sure if I'll be cracking into the bike again tonight. Work sucked.
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3-11-14 Update:
Well I had some pizza and felt energized so I got back to work!
First things first, I have to remove this front subframe.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110911.jpg)
If you look at both pics you'll notice there are three bolts in a triangle formation on each side which hold the subframe to the frame and engine.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110912.jpg)
Well the top bolts are a major PITA and were stuck on there good and tight! So... I needed some leverage...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110913.jpg)
By using the handle from my hydraulic lift as an extension for my alan key, I was able to crack these bolts free! They made wonderful noises, singing the song of their rusty people.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110914.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110916.jpg)
Once the bolts are removed the subframe was surprisingly willing to come free. Only there were some zip ties holding the subframe up by the wiring.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110917.jpg)
One just slipped loose next to the rear frame bolt location.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110918.jpg)
The others had to be cut!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110919.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110920.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110921.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110922.jpg)
This one eluded me, it's holding the kickstand sensor to the subframe.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110923.jpg)
To get the subframe out, you have to disconnect the regulator rectifier. It is just too fat to fit through that frame.
So I started labeling the electrical connections, at least so I could understand them...
Left horn
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110925.jpg)
Alternator connections
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110926.jpg)
Connections to the main harness somewhere... at least one was an SAE plug. No need to label that!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110927.jpg)
There was a ground in there too, but I didn't take a picture.
Subframe and regular rectifier free!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110928.jpg)
Look how much easier engine access just became!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110929.jpg)
Put your Guzzi flywheel locking tool in.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110954.jpg)
And go!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110930.jpg)
Once this nut is free, you can begin to remove the alternator.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110931.jpg)
Don't be tempted to remove the rotor from the stator... it'll lose it's special magnetic powers!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110932.jpg)
Alright! Getting there...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110933.jpg)
When removing the timing cover, two kinds of bolts are used. Short and long...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110934.jpg)
The short are all on the top half, the long on the bottom.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110935.jpg)
Removing the two inside bolts (hidden by the alternator) is a pain... as they are kind of deep in there and the flat end of my allen set won't fit.
My allen set has a rounded end on the long side... I use these to quickly spin out bolts in tight spaces. They should NOT be used to break free bolts that are tight. You may round off the bolt...
So for the first time I used a Guzzi toolkit piece!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110936.jpg)
It had the flat end that I needed, but there wasn't much grip or leverage for my hands... So I used a tip our Tom here on WildGuzzi showed me when I was changing my starter at the 2011 Elkader national.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110937.jpg)
It worked beautifully!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110940.jpg)
The timing case slipped right off, no problems.
It was a gasket failure, as I had suspected.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110941.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110942.jpg)
I will still check the sensors up top in case they are leaking.
Here is the stock tensioner.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110943.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110944.jpg)
Looks OK but I will probably still replace it.
Remember your oil pan... Guzzi says "I bleed oil!"
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110945.jpg)
Bits of gasket junk are all over the engine case... what to do...
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110951.jpg)
I'll be stuck here for a moment. I need a long crazy socket to get this free. I may ask fotoguzzi if I can borrow his, or see if Chuck has the right one laying around.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110953.jpg)
What have I done?!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-11-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU110955.jpg)
End of today's update. Hope you all enjoy. Feel free to let me know what I'm doing wrong, and/or right. Any tips are appreciated as well!
-Joe
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You're making me have bad dreams tonight-- sorry I looked at this!
It's a long way home from here.
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Easy-peasy! Keep at it -- you'll get there!
Shaun
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Enthralling ;D
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Here is how I removed the nut, a cheap 3/4 drive socket with a couple of flats ground on it to accept a 12" wrench.
Wrap a few layers of masking tape around the shaft to protect it.
(http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Timing%20Chain/3RemovingNut_zps95877894.jpg)
I found the bolts holding the old tension bracket were too long so I simply hacksawed the bracket and added a little note for the next owner, date of installation etc.
(http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Timing%20Chain/7Done_zps5f3f8491.jpg)
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I had a friends EV crabbed to do the clutch . He had been handing me tools for several evenings when suddenly he asked in horror " Are you gonna be able to put this thing back together ?" To which I replied " Maybe." I managed a straight face for about 30 seconds . Doing good UK .
Dusty
Sent from a submarine in Oklahoma .
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I've also been chasing a 30amp fuse melting situation since I bought the bike, I think it's narrowed down to fuse box or battery ground... <shrug> Some of you may remember me changing a worn starter because of this issue. Back in Iowa! :D
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-9-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU090847.jpg)
If the plastic fuse casing is melting, as opposed to the foil element inside, look for a bad connection at the fuse blades. The next thing to melt will be the fuse block ($$$$).
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Good work.
Pete
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If the plastic fuse casing is melting, as opposed to the foil element inside, look for a bad connection at the fuse blades. The next thing to melt will be the fuse block ($$$$).
:+1 This is a common problem with this bike, I was able to bend the clips on mine to get better contact.
The regulator setup leaves a bit to be desired, make sure you add a short ground from the regulator case to a timing cover screw.
Remove the main ground from under the seat release lock and put it somewhere secure before the bike decides to let out it's magic smoke and melt down.
I sent a PM
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Attaboy. ;D It'll go back together no problemo. Taking all these pictures helps jog your memory when that time comes. That said, it takes
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0125/9842/t/4/assets/Arctic_Core_Banner.jpg)
the first time.. ;D :BEER:
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I love the chaos. Stuff sprawled out all over the floor. Reminds me of a poster I once saw of the artist Alexander Caldwell working in his studio.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r46/joelurruty/ScreenShot2014-03-12at75529AM_zpsfacbec6d.png) (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/joelurruty/media/ScreenShot2014-03-12at75529AM_zpsfacbec6d.png.html)
Just suggestion have you thought of making a work bench? Maybe just a couple of saw horses and a sheet plywood.
Someone once told me a story about a company that made woodworking benches in Africa. He went to visit the facility and all of the workers were building these beautiful woodworking benches on the floor. Funny.
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Thanks guys. I just hope I can get this thing back up and running before the warm weather truly hits... otherwise I'm stealing the Breva! ;D
Chuck, I do think I can get those bearings cheaper, but to pull the old bearings... I may need your assistance. I've read horror stories on the LeMans board. :o
Edit: Found the bearing on Amazon, may look at a bearing shop as well just in case...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VG9APC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VG9APC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn) $62.00 shipped.
Also, on MG Cycle!
http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2838 (http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2838) $55.40, without shipping.
Bearing is an SKF 3303 A-2RS1TN9/MT33
I'd be careful about buying bearings from Amazon - there's a lot of copies out there
That bearing is a is 17mm ID x 47mm OD x 22.2mm thick double row angular contact bearing with 2 rubber seals. (It also has a limiting speed of 11000 RPM ;D)
http://www.skf.com/uk/products/bearings-units-housings/ball-bearings/angular-contact-ball-bearings/double-row/index.html?prodid=124003303&imperial=false
The rest of the number doesn't do a hell of a lot in this installation. The bearing on your bike is one of their "high performance" Explorer class bearings but I can't see why that would be needed given that the thing doesn't roate more that 20 degres I guess
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Thanks tris,
My last bearing order from Amazon seemed to be fine. It said "Made in Germany" on there, and the quality looked good... it went in fine.
I will likely be ordering this bearing from Moto International, as they have it for $28. The best bargain yet.
I love the chaos. Stuff sprawled out all over the floor. Reminds me of a poster I once saw of the artist Alexander Caldwell working in his studio.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r46/joelurruty/ScreenShot2014-03-12at75529AM_zpsfacbec6d.png) (http://s141.photobucket.com/user/joelurruty/media/ScreenShot2014-03-12at75529AM_zpsfacbec6d.png.html)
Just suggestion have you thought of making a work bench? Maybe just a couple of saw horses and a sheet plywood.
Someone once told me a story about a company that made woodworking benches in Africa. He went to visit the facility and all of the workers were building these beautiful woodworking benches on the floor. Funny.
Nice pic! Yeah I would like a workbench, but there isn't much room at the moment... my shelves are getting full otherwise some of this stuff would be up there. I'll figure something out, but I just moved in a month and half ago and we are still unpacking.
Oh and about the fuse situation. The fuse block is partially melted, has been since I've had the bike. :/ I saw a guy on the V11LeMans board moved his fuse to a maxi fuse holder separate from the fusebox... hmmm
-Joe
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Good OH
Don't you have bearing factors (shops) in the industrial estates in the USA like we do in the UK ;)
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Good OH
Don't you have bearing factors (shops) in the industrial estates in the USA like we do in the UK ;)
We have plenty of them. The internet has put up some competition for them of late.
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The closest bearing shop to me wants $80+ for it...
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Bits of gasket junk are all over the engine case... what to do...
A single edged razor blade will get that little stuff. Permatex makes an aerosol gasket remover if it is *really* stuck down.. but it is also an extremely effective paint remover. :o Careful where you spray it..
A piece of 1/8" pipe about 8 inches long makes a perfect extension handle for an allen wrench. I've used Tom's wrench method myself in a pinch. ;D
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The closest bearing shop to me wants $80+ for it...
I suspect it's the TN9/MT33 that doubled or tripled the price. Given what Tris mentioned the suffix is a waste of money.
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I suspect it's the TN9/MT33 that doubled or tripled the price. Given what Tris mentioned the suffix is a waste of money.
A good point.
Give them a go with the 3303A-2RS bit and see what they come up with
SKF, FAG or NSK are all good brands
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I'll pass along this hint that I got from someone on here (Maybe Rodekyll? Thanks, whoever it was!) for the crank nut. Go to your local hardware store plumbing section, or even Harbor Freight (where I got mine) and get this:
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_12696.jpg)
http://www.harborfreight.com/shower-valve-socket-wrench-set-96322.html
The crank nut is 32 mm, which is pretty darn close to 1 9/32" so make sure the set you get has that size. I was somewhat leery at first about these things being strong enough to withstand the torque, but in practice there was no problem. The wall thickness on my set is about 1 mm, so they're plenty beefy. I cascaded them the get enough length, putting another wrench on the end of the one on the crank nut to get the needed length, plus get down to a size of socket I have.
Another hint, on those two big yellow wires for the alternator/rectifier: they are interchangeable, will work either way, so you don't have to worry about getting them matched back the same way you found them. One thing to look out for is any sign of burning or discoloration from heat. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and tighten up the female connectors, to make sure you are getting good contact.
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A single edged razor blade will get that little stuff. Permatex makes an aerosol gasket remover if it is *really* stuck down.. but it is also an extremely effective paint remover. :o Careful where you spray it..
A piece of 1/8" pipe about 8 inches long makes a perfect extension handle for an allen wrench. I've used Tom's wrench method myself in a pinch. ;D
Even better
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/GovernmentSolutions/Home/ProductInformation/ProductCatalog/?N=4294944182&rt=d
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This thread is great, but I sure hope I don't have to do my 01 EV. So far, all I've done is the air and fuel filter. This is a trivial question, but I noticed the fuel filter looks smaller in diameter than the bracket, same as mine. Can it be left loose or does it need to be secured? What's a good way to do that? Anyone?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100883.jpg)
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This thread is great, but I sure hope I don't have to do my 01 EV. So far, all I've done is the air and fuel filter. This is a trivial question, but I noticed the fuel filter looks smaller in diameter than the bracket, same as mine. Can it be left loose or does it need to be secured? What's a good way to do that? Anyone?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100883.jpg)
I used a NAPA fuel filter on mine and just wrapped several layers of Duct tape around filter where it goes into clamp. Clamp tightens up fine on that.
Mark
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This thread is great, but I sure hope I don't have to do my 01 EV. So far, all I've done is the air and fuel filter. This is a trivial question, but I noticed the fuel filter looks smaller in diameter than the bracket, same as mine. Can it be left loose or does it need to be secured? What's a good way to do that? Anyone?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/3-10-14%20LeMans%20repairs/GU100883.jpg)
Old inner tube .
Dusty
Sent from a submarine in Oklahoma .
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FWIW, it was mentioned on the LeMans board years ago the champagne paint was an exact match to a Nissan color on '02 or '03.
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FWIW, it was mentioned on the LeMans board years ago the champagne paint was an exact match to a Nissan color on '02 or '03.
I absolutely hope that's true! ;-T
Thanks for the responses guys. Things got kinda crazy these past few days, expect a major update from me this weekend sometime.
-Joe
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Also from the same board I bought a triangular shaped cover that mounted to the front of the swingarm to keep rain water out of the transmission breather. While you have yours apart would be a good time to do the same thing. You may have to make your own. It's as simple as falling off a chair.
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Well guys, no "real" updates for now, but (!) I did receive my first batch of parts today. ;-T
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Project%20Parts%20Arrival/GU011017.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Project%20Parts%20Arrival/GU011018.jpg)
Thanks Sam and Lisa at Moto International. :)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Project%20Parts%20Arrival/GU011020.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Project%20Parts%20Arrival/GU011022.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Project%20Parts%20Arrival/GU011021.jpg)
This weekend I'll be heading to Chuck's to take a stab at some Guzzi fixin'... wish me luck ;D
-Joe
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Good luck. ;D
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I'll add to Joe's thread a little. He took pix of an all day blitz removing a bolt with an eze out stuck in it, other destroyed bolts, broken bolts, frozen swing arm bearings, etc. This scooter has been a commuter without much love and it shows it. ;D I'll let him update that stuff..
First, let me give a shout out to the guy that designed the Mojo Lever for the HF tire changer. Naturally, I converted my useless guaranteed to scratch your rims HF lever to one, and made some Mojo blocks out of always laying around the shop delrin. FREE. (Guzzi content) ;D It was by far the easiest tire change I've ever done..
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/004_zpsa7ebb86e.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/004_zpsa7ebb86e.jpg.html)
Joe wanted some bar ends installed on his fancy new bars, so I gave him the oem bar ends off the Norge. They were just laying around taking up space, so I thought I'd adapt them, and it would be a fun job instead of the cave man labor we'd been doing..
Rummaged around in my miscellaneous good junk and expansion reamer drawer for a bastard sized reamer to give me something to work with. The bars are made out of welded steel tubing with the ends heavily rolled over, so I needed to make the ends straight.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/001_zps558a142f.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/001_zps558a142f.jpg.html)
Found just what I needed, chucked it up in my antique ::) half inch drill and had at it.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/005_zps52a077e4.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/005_zps52a077e4.jpg.html)
Turned a couple of plugs to fit the reamed surface with a medium press fit, and tapped through for the bar end bolts.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/008_zpsf0b4722d.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/008_zpsf0b4722d.jpg.html)
Brought out my lifetime supply of heavy duty cylindrical bonding LocTite. Looks like I timed that about right. :( shouldn't have to buy any more..
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/009_zps36e6eb44.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/009_zps36e6eb44.jpg.html)
Cleaned the inside of the bar and the plug with lacquer thinner, and put the Loctite on both parts.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/010_zps0af7911f.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/010_zps0af7911f.jpg.html)
Drove those suckers in the ends of the bars, and bolted the bar end weights on. Pretty nice, if I do say so. ;D
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/011_zpsf3817454.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/011_zpsf3817454.jpg.html)
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Thanks Chuck!
My shock was shipped last night to Ducati of Indianapolis. They will be rebuilding my Ohlins rear shock, woo!
-Joe
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Gotta love a man who buys Loctite by the gallon ;-T :D Keep on it Joe .
Dusty
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Gotta love a man who buys Loctite by the gallon ;-T :D Keep on it Joe .
Dusty
Gotta Guzzi, ya know.. ;D :BEER:
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Gotta Guzzi, ya know.. ;D :BEER:
Well, ... there is that :D
Dusty
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Update:
So a few weeks ago I tackled a few more minor things.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110957.jpg)
Dirty... let's clean it up just a bit.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110958.jpg)
Houston, we have oil weepage.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110961.jpg)
Let's follow the oil return line, first you must remove the starter cover.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110962.jpg)
Here is the oil return line from the frame to the lower sump.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110963.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110964.jpg)
Here's our nasty oily cam sensor.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110965.jpg)
And this is the oil pressure sensor.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110966.jpg)
There is a gasket and oring for the cam sensor.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110970.jpg)
Here you can see how the sensor works, by sensor each pass of the teeth on the top cam drive.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110971.jpg)
I've been reading that the gasket thickness is imperative for the sensor to read the teeth correctly, I'll try and measure the differences when I receive the new gasket... IF I receive the new gasket.
Here is that oil pressure sensor removed.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110973.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110976.jpg)
And they are both free! Look at the gunk intrusion where the one gasket was placed.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110977.jpg)
I noticed the oil line here to the cylinder heads was a bit weepy.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110978.jpg)
Lots of oil coming from the nasty and falling apart oil evap hose.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110979.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110980.jpg)
Disconnecting the selenoid bracket.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110981.jpg)
Removing the spark plug wiring.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110982.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110983.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/Guzzi%20Repair%20Previous%20to%204-11/GU110984.jpg)
That's all for what I did a few weeks ago. Then this past weekend I took some goodies down to Chuck's place.
First things first, Chuck decided we would tackle the bolts I ruined when trying to remove my rear rotor.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00444.jpg)
He used his fancy CNC machining skills to measure a few bolts, the computer then knew the location of each of the other bolts! It creates a 3d pattern of the six bolts and the computer knows how to center on each one automagically.
The legendary Chuck at work.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00449.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00453.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00459.jpg)
He is drilling out the centers of the bolts, and next we had to heat the bolt and extract them using *much* better tools than my easy outs.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00460.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00463.jpg)
These tools were also used to extract the broken bolt I had on my front subframe, it held on the oil cooler bracket.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00465.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00464.jpg)
Meanwhile, chuck had me string up (literally) some lights for our paint booth.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00466.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00467.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00468.jpg)
Not the best job ever... but my first time running wiring like this. It was fun actually!
Chuck didn't believe me when it came to removing the swingarm bearings... but they were frozen solid in there.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00470.jpg)
The heat gun didn't help removing these with a bearing puller, so welding would be necessary!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00473.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00486.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00481.jpg)
Creating a spacer tube for the bolt puller system.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00479.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00478.jpg)
Bearing free!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00480.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00482.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00485.jpg)
I had some flaking paint and corrosion on many parts. I did prep work to get them paintable, although I didn't remove all of the paint as much of it was really stuck on there.
Mostly I'm looking for corrosion prevention.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00488.jpg)
Chuck lent me his knowledge and tools and I got to cleanin'
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00489.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00490.jpg)
The selenoid bracket was one of the nasty bits.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00491.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00492.jpg)
After scuffing up and cleaning parts, we started taping things off to paint.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00493.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00494.jpg)
My constant companion.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00495.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00496.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00497.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00498.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00499.jpg)
Make sure your paint booth is properly ventilated.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00500.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00501.jpg)
And shield nearby beauties from overspray!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00502.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00503.jpg)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00504.jpg)
We cleaned the parts with de-greaser once more, and I began painting. It was anti-climactic though, as my fancy HD crinkle paint can was defective. :(
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00506.jpg)
That's it for photos I have, Chuck already posted some stuff he did after ward. Here was one shot I have of him cleaning the ends of my bars before he went full out and got bar ends equipped.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00474.jpg)
We then met the Indiana Guzzitsi at David and Diane's place and had a great time. :) I forgot to take more pics, but here is ChuckH's beautiful Stelvio!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00507.jpg)
I have a long weekend, and I'll tackle some more bits that I can on the Guzzi soon. I won't be back at Chuck's until the beginning of May... so this project won't be done until sometime after that.
Look forward to more updates, I hope you are all still enjoying this thread!
-Joe
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those stubborn rotor bolts have a shallow button head.. My friend Marty showed me a trick, he lay the wheel with rotor on a hot plate, the button heads were the only thing contacting the heating plate so they warmed up real nice and screwed right out. the factory does know how to slather on the lock tight.
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those stubborn rotor bolts have a shallow button head.. My friend Marty showed me a trick, he lay the wheel with rotor on a hot plate, the button heads were the only thing contacting the heating plate so they warmed up real nice and screwed right out. the factory does know how to slather on the lock tight.
Nice tip! Thanks. I'll remember that one for next time. ;-T
Shouldn't be so hard next time though. ;D
-Joe
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NICE PICS BY THE WAY!
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That gasket for the cam position sensor is actually a shim and is used to correct for the tolerances of machining. IMHO, the spacer thickness is determined mostly from crankcase machining. IOW, use that one over.
The o-ring on the sensor is supposed to do the sealing and does it.....not very well. I painted the bore not very far with silicone and slathered some more around the o-ring and 'gasket'.
There have been some sensors that are leaky allowing oil to migrate through. There's a Loctite product that cures that.
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That gasket for the cam position sensor is actually a shim and is used to correct for the tolerances of machining. IMHO, the spacer thickness is determined mostly from crankcase machining. IOW, use that one over.
The o-ring on the sensor is supposed to do the sealing and does it.....not very well. I painted the bore not very far with silicone and slathered some more around the o-ring and 'gasket'.
There have been some sensors that are leaky allowing oil to migrate through. There's a Loctite product that cures that.
Thanks for the correction, I'll look into a solution on this before I reassemble. :) It's been fun figuring these things out.
-Joe
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Ok, let's service these forks. Like many times on Guzzis, the time I do it is the first time. ::) So.. here's the blind leading the blind version.
First, turn the adjusting screw all the way ccw. Count the clicks so you can put it back to the same damping when you're done.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/015_zps5e69cefe.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/015_zps5e69cefe.jpg.html)
Then, the top can be removed.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/016_zpsb9359b26.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/016_zpsb9359b26.jpg.html)
Once unscrewed, there is a blue nut that can be held with a wrench and the top removed. Sorry, I missed a picture of this operation because I was using my third hand to hold the bottom slider to keep it from falling out. ;D
You can pour the oil out of in now. Here it's drip drying..
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/002_zps5e746ea4.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/002_zps5e746ea4.jpg.html)
Now, lets get the cartridge out of there..pull the bottom slider out of the top tube, put it in a padded vise, and loosen the bolt the holds the cartridge in.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/005_zps6dcb01d8.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/005_zps6dcb01d8.jpg.html)
Probably be a good idea to keep track of where the parts go.. Clean em up.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/006_zpsede16e6a.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/006_zpsede16e6a.jpg.html)
This is why it's a good idea to service your forks. Probably hadn't been done for a while.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/017_zpsf6a48362.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/017_zpsf6a48362.jpg.html)
Now, let's replace the seal. Use your special Guzzi tool to pry up the dust seal.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/008_zps8517fbb5.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/008_zps8517fbb5.jpg.html)
and get this stupid snap ring out of there. They could have used an E ring, but noooo.. that would be too easy. ;D
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/009_zpsa173c7a2.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/009_zpsa173c7a2.jpg.html)
Perseverance..
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/010_zps0b37cad4.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/010_zps0b37cad4.jpg.html)
Once the snap ring is out, it's an easy job for a seal puller. It just pops right out.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/011_zps038117e7.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/011_zps038117e7.jpg.html)
You can install the new seal with your fingers. I used a big hunker socket and tapped it around the edges so I could put the stupid snap ring back in.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/012_zps0ea240b9.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/012_zps0ea240b9.jpg.html)
Ok, we're essentially done now. Put a little fork oil on your finger and lube the seal lip. Slide it back together, bolt the cartridge back in, and pour in 400cc of fork oil. Work the cartridge up and down until you hear that great sucking sound. ;D You can see the blue nut you hold to tighten down the top nut in this picture.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/014_zpsc19b9de1.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/014_zpsc19b9de1.jpg.html)
Nothing left to do except screw on the top nut, lock it with the blue jam nut thingy (technical term) and screw the top nut home.
Another job to throw on the done pile. If a shop charges you more than an hour labor they're slackin. ;D
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Thanks for that Chuck. ;-T
I'll have more photos and work done this week as well. Waiting to hear back from Moto International about a few more parts. ;D
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good job !! ;-T
thanks for sharing .
I was wondering who's guzzi next to the airplane ? looks like a strada... do u have any more picture ? look nice with those hard bags....
thanks
Marco
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(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n82/UnkeptJMC/General/Guzzi/4-11-14%20through%204-13-14%20Guzzi%20Repair/DSC00503.jpg)
this one ;D
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Might as well tackle the wheel bearing job. I *have* done this before, so it'll be simple. The only trick is to bump the spacer that goes between the two bearings to the side so you can get a punch on the inner race to drive it out. The drive side bearing comes out much easier, so do it first. In case you are wondering, that snap ring has nothing to do with this job.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/001_zpse3e613e6.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/001_zpse3e613e6.jpg.html)
Here's the first bearing and the spacer. The collar on the spacer is just to keep it from too far out of alignment when you are putting it back together.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/002_zps9e375f21.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/002_zps9e375f21.jpg.html)
The spacer width should be checked. Some were way too short on the V11s, causing premature bearing failure. Joe's was .005" short. Close enough for farm machinery.. ;D Oh, forgot. 113mm from my old people memory. You better check. ;) Seriously, I don't even try to remember numbers. I see thousands of them every day when I'm working.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/003_zps27f06aaf.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/003_zps27f06aaf.jpg.html)
It takes a little more persuasion on the rotor side bearing..
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/004_zpsbee3c070.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/004_zpsbee3c070.jpg.html)
Here's a special Guzzi tool I made at great expense ::) the first time I had to replace wheel bearings.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/007_zps4819c5c3.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/007_zps4819c5c3.jpg.html)
Go get the bearings you threw in the freezer yesterday ;D start them in by tapping around the outer edge with a plastic hammer.. never on the inner race.. You *did* remember to put the spacer in there, right? ;D Push the all thread through, install the big washer and nut, and turn the crank. ;D Time *is* of the essence here, so I don't have a picture of that operation.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/006_zps6d807760.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/006_zps6d807760.jpg.html)
Nothin to it.
Back to you, Joe.. ;D
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good job !! ;-T
thanks for sharing .
I was wondering who's guzzi next to the airplane ? looks like a strada... do u have any more picture ? look nice with those hard bags....
thanks
Marco
That's FGOs Strada that I'm going to part out if he doesn't come get it.. ;D :BEER: He was wanting a red suspenders touring bike without immobilizers, abs, etc. with a big steel tank that alcohol won't phase. Good touring bike that handles better than a touring bike oughta.
He wanted some bags put on it, so I made up some mounts and put some cheap Givi knock offs on it that a lister had given me. I was going to use this bike as our touring bike, but Dorcia didn't like it. <shrug>
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/Strada/003_zps4e79b8d8.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/Strada/003_zps4e79b8d8.jpg.html)
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That's FGOs Strada that I'm going to part out if he doesn't come get it.. ;D :BEER: He was wanting a red suspenders touring bike without immobilizers, abs, etc. with a big steel tank that alcohol won't phase. Good touring bike that handles better than a touring bike oughta.
He wanted some bags put on it, so I made up some mounts and put some cheap Givi knock offs on it that a lister had given me. I was going to use this bike as our touring bike, but Dorcia didn't like it. <shrug>
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/Strada/003_zps4e79b8d8.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/Strada/003_zps4e79b8d8.jpg.html)
wow thats a good looking guzzi if he does not want it anymore , i'll get it ;D just pm me .
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Thanks, Marco.
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Thanks, Marco.
your welcome :)
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Ok, update time!
Today hasn't been the most productive... but I've ordered a bunch more crap for my car and bike project. *Sigh* I'll be taking up a second job soon to pay for all of this. :winer
Anywho...
So I went back to Chuck for a second round of wrenchin' and learnin'
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00530.JPG)
More parts to clean...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00529.JPG)
Chuck cleaned and re-glued the solenoid mounts for me.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00527.JPG)
More blastin' to do!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00524.JPG)
Men at work. ;)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00525.JPG)
Showing off some parts of the front subframe. Mostly for my memory.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00523.JPG)
Here's where the stubborn buttons/solenoid mounts go.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00522.JPG)
I used locking pliers to hold the buttons in place to remove them. A PITA.
Here they are free. Chuck cleaned these up as I got back to spraying stuff. I'll glue them to the rubber pieces before I install the solenoid.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00521.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00531.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00532.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00533.JPG)
Should've worn a gas mask.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00535.JPG)
Paint smelled like green apples to me, fantastic! The not so fantastic? My snot was black for days! ;D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5bVo4RERnd3hiYzg/DSC00534.JPG)
That's it for pics from there, sorry guys. The parts came out good, but not great. Mostly from my lazy paint prep! Recommendation : Aircraft stripper :o ;)
I'll post pics of the parts later.
I shipped my Ohlins off to Ducati Indianapolis at Chuck's recommendation. Bill Carr and his son Matt Carr took care of me. Everyone there is friendly and called me almost daily with status updates! It ended up costing $322 before shipping for a full rebuild with a new (softer) spring.
They were so kind as to help me document my project, and sent me these pics via email.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/DSC01047 (Medium).JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/DSC01046 (Medium).JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/DSC01044 (Medium).JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/DSC01041 (Medium).JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/DSC00975 (Medium).JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/DSC00974 (Medium).JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/DSC00972 (Medium).JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/DSC00970 (Medium).JPG)
And here it is back home!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ckE1Rk92cjhiLWM/GU011103.JPG)
I decided to re-install my battery tray today, small victories and whatnot.
A combination of locking pliers and a screwdriver got the job of installing the rubber bumpers done.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011092.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011093.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011094.JPG)
Rubber pieces mounted, looking good.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011095.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011097.JPG)
Received a plate in the mail recently...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011109.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011107.JPG)
A sloper, courtesy of Pete Roper!
Removed the grip from the throttle tube as well. It's glued on, so cutting was my only obvious option.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011101.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011102.JPG)
Heated grips will be going on! Oxford that I got on closeout from RevZilla.
I wanted to see how the bar setup might work... but I ran into a snag.
The switchgear on the left bar has an indent.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011080.JPG)
The standard bar accommodates this.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011082.JPG)
But I have non-standard bars going on...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011083.JPG)
So... to the grind.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011085.JPG)
Notice the dark puddle in the foreground? That's what happens with you try and plug the frame so you can rinse it out with mineral spirits (rusty gunk in there), and it doesn't work...
The frame mishap really dampened my spirits... and the bike/floor. I cleaned it up the best I could. *fingers crossed*
Back to the bars.
Ground mostly smooth.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011086.JPG)
Success!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011087.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011088.JPG)
Since I removed the airbox for pod filters, I wanted to find a new home for the air temp sensor.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011098.JPG)
So I read somewhere on V11Lemans about this idea...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011099.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011100.JPG)
That's it for now, I know I have some photos out of order... but it's been a big update and I have a headache. :BEER:
Off topic but...
I made some Han Solo Dark "Side" Chocolate Bars for my friends upcoming "May The Fourth Be With You" and housewarming party. I bought the silicone mold on Amazon (Han Solo in Carbonite), learned the boiling pot/bowl trick to properly melt the dark chocolate chips, and put the mold in the freezer for 30 minutes to solidify the bars. Clean the mold occasionally, repeat!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011072.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011073.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5Q1NwZzF0WnYwNmc/GU011079.JPG)
May the Fourth be with you (tomorrow) Guzzisti!
The mold is his housewarming gift from me.
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So newbie [normzone] here, who just finished looking at the pictures of the initial teardown on the first page.
I'm torn between awe and admiration, and...wanting to ask - couldn't you have just kept putting oil in and riding?
More power to you though.
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He said it hadn't led an easy life. When you pick up something that has an unknown or abused history its always best to hook in and do the necessary stuff BEFORE things start breaking rather than waiting for it to all fall in a screaming heap!
Joe's lucky, he has Chuck helping him out. That's like rolling a dice heavily weighted in your favour! ;D
Pete
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"I'll probably paint it, but I don't have the right arrangement... hmmm, heater and a cardboard box? I have almost zero experience painting."
Also same here but suspect the rub lies in the preparation?
Just like any other paint finish.
All the best with the renovation.
:)
Rob
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Congratulations for your interest and effort that you put in the bike.
You are doing an excellent job, I follow with interest.
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So newbie [normzone] here, who just finished looking at the pictures of the initial teardown on the first page.
I'm torn between awe and admiration, and...wanting to ask - couldn't you have just kept putting oil in and riding?
More power to you though.
I could have... but part of the reason I "dug in" was due to the fact that the oil I was putting in... kept wanting to come out around my cam sensor and oil evap system. :D
Really, these things have been burning at the back of my mind... and addressing them before they become real issues seems like the right path.
He said it hadn't led an easy life. When you pick up something that has an unknown or abused history its always best to hook in and do the necessary stuff BEFORE things start breaking rather than waiting for it to all fall in a screaming heap!
Joe's lucky, he has Chuck helping him out. That's like rolling a dice heavily weighted in your favour! ;D
Pete
:+1
Chuck's been a great help. I wouldn't be nearly as far as I am without his assistance. I may not have repainted the rusty bits... and had to save that for later.
It's not as if I'm getting everything done that I'd like to. Cosmetically the bike will still be flawed in the end, as bodywork/paintwork is hard and expensive! I mostly want the LeMans to be a mechanically sound machine with a few upgrades here and there. Stopping corrosion is another idea I couldn't pass up.
"I'll probably paint it, but I don't have the right arrangement... hmmm, heater and a cardboard box? I have almost zero experience painting."
Also same here but suspect the rub lies in the preparation?
Just like any other paint finish.
All the best with the renovation.
:)
Rob
Hey Rob,
Thanks for the kind words. I would likely use aircraft stripper before repainting the parts if I were to do it again. If I keep the bike as long as humanly possible I most likely WILL strip the parts and do it again someday.
For now, "good enough" in appearance is good enough for me. ;D
Congratulations for your interest and effort that you put in the bike.
You are doing an excellent job, I follow with interest.
Thanks! Your project is fantastic. Your bike will look much better than mine, love the powder coated frame and the green on the tank you are going with. ;-T
The only thing my bike may have on yours is handing/speed... but it's a much more modern design by Guzzi standards. :D
Thanks again everyone, I'll update the thread when I have some more to post... re-gluing some heat reflective tape to the tank soon... waiting on a couple more parts before I really start to reassemble.
Question. I took the timing cover off mainly to fix the leaking gasket. Would anyone suggest I simply keep the stock chain tensioner? I believe it works fine, and if I stay stock I won't have to worry about spacers/fitment. The Stucchi/Valtech blade tensioner doesn't sit flush like I think it should. It came from a loop, are those a different design?
If all I achieve in that arena is a fixed oil leak, I'll still be very happy.
-Joe
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Nice work Joe (and Chuck ;) ). Joe: You certainly have no fear of disassembling things, that's for sure! As for me---I don't either, but it takes a lot of notes and pics anymore to get it all back together. ::) You're doing a fine job and that bike will be so much better when you finish that it will seem like a new one. Better yet, you will know where every piece goes and how to deal with whatever needs arise...and that is worth a lot.
Well done Chuck for helping out with savvy and shop space and equipment! You have a nice place there, and real tools. ;-T
Terry
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Nice work Joe (and Chuck ;) ). Joe: You certainly have no fear of disassembling things, that's for sure! As for me---I don't either, but it takes a lot of notes and pics anymore to get it all back together. ::) You're doing a fine job and that bike will be so much better when you finish that it will seem like a new one. Better yet, you will know where every piece goes and how to deal with whatever needs arise...and that is worth a lot.
Well done Chuck for helping out with savvy and shop space and equipment! You have a nice place there, and real tools. ;-T
Terry
Thank you! It's been fun, I like tinkering anyway... :)
I think you are right, it will be like a new bike! I'll be doing a throttle body sync and some minor fuel trimming with my cables soon as well. New air and fuel filters, a now fully open exhaust, should growl and gather a bit more punch!
Going to meet some family for lunch today, my aunt's birthday, and then off to the May The Fourth party. ;-T
Talk soon WildGuzzi,
Joe
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Thanks for posting this one.
I love this thread. Great blow by blow of how to do stuff. I wish I had done that with the last bike I tore down (20 years ago).
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The only thing my bike may have on yours is handing/speed... but it's a much more modern design by Guzzi standards.
That's right.
I know what you've got, I drove V11 from firend of mine, that's a very serious and fast machine. V11 LeMans is on my wish list ... on the other hand, as getting older, I'm less interested in speed...
Continue to follow with interest.
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That's right.
I know what you've got, I drove V11 from firend of mine, that's a very serious and fast machine. V11 LeMans is on my wish list ... on the other hand, as getting older, I'm less interested in speed...
Continue to follow with interest.
Uhh, the Lemon 1000 ain't exactly chopped liver.. ;D
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"Uhh, the Lemon 1000 ain't exactly chopped liver.." ;D
So the 750S must be diced Pituitary gland. :D
Rob
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Glad to see you're making progress. Yep, having Chuck nearby is a wonderful thing for sure.
I eagerly await when you tell up of your shake down flight. ;D ;-T
John Henry
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Question. I took the timing cover off mainly to fix the leaking gasket. Would anyone suggest I simply keep the stock chain tensioner?
I might have missed your mileage but I would put in a new chain and maybe the new tensioner if it fit, I thought the Valtec would fit right in if it needs shims I dunno.
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Uhh, the Lemon 1000 ain't exactly chopped liver.. ;D
:+1
I was merely stating that the only thing my bike might have over his is the edge on speed/handling... his build is amazing and looks like it would be a blast to ride.
Question. I took the timing cover off mainly to fix the leaking gasket. Would anyone suggest I simply keep the stock chain tensioner?
I might have missed your mileage but I would put in a new chain and maybe the new tensioner if it fit, I thought the Valtec would fit right in if it needs shims I dunno.
Thanks Brad. I suppose I could ask MI if they have a new chain laying around... over 50k on this one, I thought they should be good for 100k? <shrug>
I'm not sure, but the blade style tension-er just doesn't seem to fit flush to me? Maybe I'm doing it wrong. The bracket piece acted as a spacer for the longer bolts, so I could find some spacers or shorter bolts as well.
Just got home from orientation at my second job. Oh boy, here it comes. Working weekends...
-Joe
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Ok guys, things have been hectic and I'm recovering from something... but here is something for you all to chew on and possibly help me with. ;)
Here is why I don't think the tensioner will work.
If I were to tighten down the bolts, the plate for the tensioner will be cocked at an angle like so.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011120.JPG)
If I hold the plate flat against the molding of the crankcase... it would need spacers, I'm also sure this would place the blade in the incorrect position.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011121.JPG)
So is this the wrong tensioner for a V11 LeMans? It came out of a loop I think... for some reason I thought they were all the same. :D It was FREE (Guzzi Content) though...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011122.JPG)
In others news...
I wanted to pull the wires from the fuse block for the starter (30amp fuse) since it kept melting fuses.
One of the wires was so corroded/burnt at the end it just broke off when I pulled at it. The other came cleanly enough.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011124.JPG)
You can see how melted the fuse box is at that fuse terminal.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011127.JPG)
I pulled back the ECU to try and finangle the wires to a further position from the original fuse block. I pointed to the original position for a ground wire.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011123.JPG)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011128.JPG)
With the increased slack I gained on those wires, I temporarily fitted up my new 30-80amp maxi fuse block. I need the terminals so I can mount the wires to the screws, but this is how it will mount.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011129.JPG)
This is a marine grade fuse block, I really like the build quality and how I can easily see the huge fuse. The screw tensioner system also ROCKS as I'll never need to worry about "bending back" these connections...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011130.JPG)
Note the melted small 30amp fuse in the background. :)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5SHBoVWxQQkpuLW8/GU011131.JPG)
Any input on the chain tensioner is welcome... I DID buy a new chain for kicks. So a new chain with the stock tensioner system should be ok right? 50k+ miles on the tensioner though.
I'll be working weekends now. :( Hopefully I will fully recover soon and I can get the bike and car work done.
Cheers,
Joe
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Joe,
By the time this thread loads my computer is panting like a wooly dog on a Texas summer afternoon! ;) Nice documentation. Hope you're having fun!
Bill
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Joe,
By the time this thread loads my computer is panting like a wooly dog on a Texas summer afternoon! ;) Nice documentation. Hope you're having fun!
Bill
Thanks Bill, lol. I had been using Photobucket which downsizes my photos for me, I hadn't really thought about that... I'm now using Google Drive which doesn't really compress my photos at all so that has to be why it's slower. :P
Your avatar photo is prompting me for a Billhavins login from your website, strangely enough. Just an FYI. ;)
I am having fun on the bike, it's the rest of my life's little issues that are dragging me down. ;D
-Joe
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Joe.. Chrome keeps crashing on this thread, so I can't see your tensioner pix. As far as I know, they are all the same. (?) I'll try Firefox..
Edit: Firefox won't load them either. It also popped up a Bill Havens log in..
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Joe.. Chrome keeps crashing on this thread, so I can't see your tensioner pix. As far as I know, they are all the same. (?) I'll try Firefox..
Sorry about that Chuck... I guess I didn't think about Google now compressing my images, Photobucket always did that by default, and so I've gotten lazy. ;D
Each photo is 5MB or so, and so my guess is you guys are running into memory/bandwidth issues on my thread with all of it's high quality photos. I'll have to use Photoshop to shrink each file before I upload it for friendlier photo sharing next time. Too bad Google Drive has no options to share compressed versions of the photos, or a way to convert photos already uploaded. ::) *sigh* At least there I have 25 GB of free and fast storage space.
-Joe
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Sorry about that Chuck... I guess I didn't think about Google now compressing my images, Photobucket always did that by default, and so I've gotten lazy. ;D
Each photo is 5MB or so, and so my guess is you guys are running into memory/bandwidth issues on my thread with all of it's high quality photos. I'll have to use Photoshop to shrink each file before I upload it for friendlier photo sharing next time. Too bad Google Drive has no options to share compressed versions of the photos, or a way to convert photos already uploaded. ::) *sigh* At least there I have 25 GB of free and fast storage space.
-Joe
I had trouble with Google drive.. they said if I made the pix a certain size it wouldn't count against my storage limit. I did that, and it counted against my storage limit. ;D Had to tell Picassa to quit that..
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Nice work guys!
Something that you might want to do before you mount the rear shock reservoir is weld the nut onto the back side of the shock reservoir bracket. If you that do then you only need to remove one cap screw (the 9 o'clock screw on the porkchop) to get the reservoir out of the way if you need access to the starter solenoid or need replace the shifter pawl spring, which is something else that you should consider if you haven't done that yet.
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...Your avatar photo is prompting me for a Billhavins login from your website, strangely enough. Just an FYI. ;)...
-Joe
Thanks for the heads up! I'll get it fixed. Frizlfraken.
Bill
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Joe the tensioner and plate you are trying to fit looks suspiciously like the old big block type to fit 70s/80s Guzzis but to be honest as I have never worked on a more modern V11 or some such, could not say if the tensioner and plate have changed?
That marine fuse box setup looks like an excellent idea. Probably especially for a more powerful modern, brushless alternator output.
Great thread and pics, thanks.
:)
Rob
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Not sure if you have too many pics, or if they are too large.. but this thread is glacial in pace if it doesn't cause a full-on lock up!
Im on an older MacBook Pro using Firefox
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Nice work guys!
Something that you might want to do before you mount the rear shock reservoir is weld the nut onto the back side of the shock reservoir bracket. If you that do then you only need to remove one cap screw (the 9 o'clock screw on the porkchop) to get the reservoir out of the way if you need access to the starter solenoid or need replace the shifter pawl spring, which is something else that you should consider if you haven't done that yet.
Wow, that is a good idea. Unfortunately I'm away from Chuck and his master skills and tools at the moment, and I'll probably be re-assembling the bike before too long. The next time I tear it down though (most likely there WILL be a next time. :) ) I'll certainly remember this suggestion. Thanks!
Not sure if you have too many pics, or if they are too large.. but this thread is glacial in pace if it doesn't cause a full-on lock up!
Im on an older MacBook Pro using Firefox
I'm going to have to spend some time and re-upload all of those pics compressed for web viewing. My apologies to you fine folks and your dinosaur computers. ;)
At least you created a new page, so it should load this page just fine seeing as no photos are up yet. Page 3 is currently my "doomsday" page. ;D
Joe the tensioner and plate you are trying to fit looks suspiciously like the old big block type to fit 70s/80s Guzzis but to be honest as I have never worked on a more modern V11 or some such, could not say if the tensioner and plate have changed?
That marine fuse box setup looks like an excellent idea. Probably especially for a more powerful modern, brushless alternator output.
Great thread and pics, thanks.
:)
Rob
I really think you are right, and that they made some kind of change to that plate to accommodate the 1100 blocks are some point... but I don't know those tiny differences so we could both be wrong. *shrug*
The "old" V11 sport tensioner is likely going back in. I'll decide soon enough. A new chain though.
I really like the idea of that fuse box. I might replace the entire old one with another multi-fuse marine unit at some point.
Thank you for your kind words.
-Joe
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Where my antique computer chokes is the pix you posted after coming here the last time. You kids and your lightning fast computers..always the latest thing.. probably even your phone takes pictures. Get off my lawn! ;D
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Where my antique computer chokes is the pix you posted after coming here the last time. You kids and your lightning fast computers..always the latest thing.. probably even your phone takes pictures. Get off my lawn! ;D
Camp out at Chucks house............. ;D :BEER: ~;
BYOB
John Henry
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Feel the rage! ;D
Where's my ear-trumpet? I can't hear the gramophone!
Pete
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You guys are cracking me up. ;D
-Joe
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Since you are going to work weekends anyway,you might as well upgrade to a no timing chain setup. ;)
Thanks for the very informative repair thread, I am anxiously awaiting the finished motorcycle. :bow
(http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy272/zxmick/imagejpg1_zpsd9f25124.jpg) (http://s799.photobucket.com/user/zxmick/media/imagejpg1_zpsd9f25124.jpg.html)
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U.K.:
This is quite the endeavor.
I haven't been keeping up with WG for a while.
When you asked about painters, etc last year I thought you were just going to clean some things up and have the tank painted!
Hope you didn't get caught up in the "While I'm in there" syndrome. And here I was last week fretting about spending $140 for another case of liquid gold AKA i-Ride 10W60.
Think you'll be finished in time to ride it to Elkader?
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Since you are going to work weekends anyway,you might as well upgrade to a no timing chain setup. ;)
Thanks for the very informative repair thread, I am anxiously awaiting the finished motorcycle. :bow
(http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy272/zxmick/imagejpg1_zpsd9f25124.jpg) (http://s799.photobucket.com/user/zxmick/media/imagejpg1_zpsd9f25124.jpg.html)
Thanks! I can't wait to see it finished either... ;)
Regarding timing gears vs. chain... I love the debate, and having read many of those threads myself I'm still leaning towards chain being the superior solution for a reliable Guzzi... there are always exceptions.
If I could find a set of custom made steel timing gears for an FI Guzzi I'd be ecstatic however. ;-T
U.K.:
This is quite the endeavor.
I haven't been keeping up with WG for a while.
When you asked about painters, etc last year I thought you were just going to clean some things up and have the tank painted!
Hope you didn't get caught up in the "While I'm in there" syndrome. And here I was last week fretting about spending $140 for another case of liquid gold AKA i-Ride 10W60.
Think you'll be finished in time to ride it to Elkader?
It's become quite a project eh? The irony of course is I haven't even touched the paint job! It's fallen off my radar. ;D I did get a touch up pen to try though... more on that at a later point.
Elkader... it's the one Guzzi meet I'm absolutely trying to make. Have the time off at work and everything, so fingers crossed I'll be there... hopefully my wife and I will both be there on each of our own Guzzis!
-Joe
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Whew , thought it was just my stone age device that was causing the issue , on the back it says " inspected by Ugh.
Joe , you are making me feel old , so much energy :bow Ahh youth , when did thee dessert me ? Now just hurry the heck up and get this thing done :D
Dusty
Yeah.. he's only working 7 days a week. He's slackin if he doesn't get it done shortly.. ;D
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Hey Guys,
Just a thread bump mostly. I just batch downloaded the photos, compressed them 80%, and re-uploaded them. Please let me know if page 3 loads better for you now!
I also have setup my camera in the garage with time lapse, so soon I'll be putting the bike back together and taking time lapse photos of it. I hope it'll make a cool video. ???
Still waiting on just a few parts from MI.
-Joe
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Nothing wrong with the stock tensioner..good to get a new chain tho. and I don't think the timing gears will work the cam sensor.
hope to see ya at Elkader, I'll be late Friday or maybe not till Saturday, can't get off Fri.
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Please let me know if page 3 loads better for you now!
Chrome crashed again. Twice. It *is* better, though.
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Chrome crashed again. Twice. It *is* better, though.
Thanks Chuck.
OK! I find that the forum re sizes photos to 800x600, or 600x800 anyways... so I used the new nifty program I found to compress each image at 80% and to resize each photo to the forum resolution.
This should improve speeds and decrease those kind of issues... let me know! I've already replaced the album once again with the even smaller photos.
-Joe
P.S. The program rocks, it's truly free, and it's called Caesium
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Alrighty, now.. Chrome walked right through them. ;D First time I've seen all the pix. Now. Get to work on that lemon.. ;D It's no hill for a climber. ;-T
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Much better Pg 3, Joe. ;-T Thanks. There's gotta be a couple hrs a week when you're not working....so put that thing together and ride! ;) ;)
Terry
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Ok guys, got some sh*t done today. :D
Ah, I remember where I left off now... :-\
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00568_compressed.jpg)
Time to give the pup a new chain.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00570_compressed.jpg)
Set up a camera for time lapse. I've never tried this before.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00569_compressed.jpg)
Another set of eyes to watch me as I work.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/TL000014_compressed.jpg)
Looks right to me. Don't worry, the timing marks only moved after I put them on... I had tightened the stuff down and turned over the engine before I took the pic.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00571_compressed 3.jpg)
MAKE SURE to put the tiny key into the oil pump before you slide the assembly on. It's easy to lose...
I placed the gasket on carefully, applying light coats of oil to each side, and mounted it up!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00572_compressed 3.jpg)
Hopefully the area doesn't get oily again...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00574_compressed.jpg)
Take some pictures Joe... I was kinda rushing it today so my photos weren't great. I used the point and shoot instead of the DSLR.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/TL000001_compressed.jpg)
Make sure to tighten the screws and check that the gasket isn't being snagged and is sitting correctly... then tighten stuff up. :) I then put the electrical stuff back in.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/TL000985_compressed.jpg)
This is another part of the process which uses a small key on the crankshaft, place the key on and line up the alternator.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00575_compressed.jpg)
There is a little rubber grommet for the wiring, don't forget that...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00576_compressed.jpg)
Wooo
I can do one more thing tonight.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00577_compressed.jpg)
This is the easy part.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00578_compressed.jpg)
The back part of the hose is very annoying.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/TL000428_compressed.jpg)
Looks ok to me.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00580_compressed.jpg)
A little better!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5WnBhVnRQUFBseE0/DSC00581_compressed.jpg)
Goodnight...
-Joe
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Sleep well Joe, you've earned it ;-T
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Attaboy.. ;D
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Thanks for the encouragement guys. Another 10 hour Saturday shift tomorrow, *sigh*, so I'm not sure how much I'll get done again until Sunday. Gonna have to miss the Guzzi lunch. :'(
So I did some "small things". I should have my pivot cover, battery tray, and throttle cable early next week though... once I have those things I'll be comfortable with putting the front end of the bike back together! ;D
Pile o' stuff to do.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00582_compressed.jpg)
Easy job #1. My rear axle has always been missing it's own plug.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00583_compressed.jpg)
Tad-ah!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00584_compressed.jpg)
Easy job #2. Replacing the fork pinch bolts. The hard part is that Guzzi discontinued the item, and even Moto International couldn't find the info to get the right bolt. A trip to Lowes and I found them though....
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00612_compressed.jpg)
For Guzzista reference. At least on the 2002 V11 LeMans, the fork pinch bolts GU01530595 are replaceable with a socket cap screw. M6-1.00 x 25.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00611_compressed.jpg)
I can't remember if I broke this or not... regardless, it was hanging on for dear life and it bothered me.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00585_compressed.jpg)
Replaced easily enough.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00586_compressed.jpg)
Next up, replacing the old fuel filter. This is a pretty easy job, but be sure to catch the fuel which will spit out of your FI lines.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00588_compressed.jpg)
The new, smaller, cheaper, Japanesier, fuel filter I received from MI.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00589_compressed.jpg)
Be sure to check the markings on the fuel filter, "out" should be on the "downward" side toward the rider, not upwards towards the dash.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00590_compressed.jpg)
Next up, these cracked old buggers.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00591_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00592_compressed.jpg)
They weren't crumbling or anything, but knowing my luck one would crack and create an air leak sooner than later.
You'll have to take off two little bolts to move the throttle bodies back enough to remove and install the intake sleeves.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00593_compressed.jpg)
Viola... is that how it's spelled?
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00594_compressed.jpg)
Changing my old rubbers for new. ;D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00596_compressed.jpg)
They are a bitch to install, but wrigglin' and pushin' will get the job done. Those clamps may come loose, don't worry about it. Just unscrew them almost all the way, and while wearing gloves... pull them back together.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00597_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00598_compressed.jpg)
Checked them out, and woohoo the bolts MI sent me do fit for the front subframe. The old Guzzi bolts were the easy to break hex head versions.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00587_compressed2.jpg)
I also decided to replace some of the sealing washers used on the oil return lines.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00604_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00605_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00606_compressed.jpg)
Speaking of which, if you've noticed I'm ditching my airbox in favor of long runner pods. So I need to route any oil vapor to atmosphere since I don't have an airbox for it to go to anymore.
Need a longer line.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00607_compressed.jpg)
Rockin' out! and installing oil vapor lines...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00608_compressed.jpg)
Peace, and also... I decided to route the line to where the tank overflow goes.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00609_compressed.jpg)
I decided to get curious about the clutch hose replacement.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/TL000151_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00599_compressed.jpg)
I routed the hoses side by side to show the difference when installed.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00600_compressed.jpg)
At the back, this is where you swap the hoses. 11 wrench.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00601_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00603_compressed.jpg)
Now removing the hose from the lever assembly was very hard... but if it were mounted to the bike it would've been easier I reckon. Loosen that puppy before you pull the bars!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00602_compressed.jpg)
Another days work.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5YjNjUTRwRDNCUnM/DSC00610_compressed.jpg)
-Joe
-
Joe , your'e making me tired just watching :D Geez , so good to see young folks carrying on the tradition of
"I want to see how this thing works" , you make us proud ;-T
Dusty
-
Never mind the spelling. We're here for the bike story ;-T
-
As you're making progress toward reassembly, if you have not though about it, you should consider putting anti-sieze on many of the bolts so you can get them back out in the future. (You probably have but I felt it worth mentioning.)
Glad to see things are coming back together Joe. ;-T
John Henry
-
Well, the pile on the floor is getting smaller.. that's a good sign. ;D
-
Way to go Joe....you might have to change your screen name to "keptup" ;D
One tip....you might want to buy a quality kneeling pad for your knees.....trust me when you get to be +50 years of age your knees will thank you. ;)
-
Joe , your'e making me tired just watching :D Geez , so good to see young folks carrying on the tradition of
"I want to see how this thing works" , you make us proud ;-T
Dusty
I want to see how everything works... "Question everything" is my motto.
Never mind the spelling. We're here for the bike story ;-T
:)
As you're making progress toward reassembly, if you have not though about it, you should consider putting anti-seize on many of the bolts so you can get them back out in the future. (You probably have but I felt it worth mentioning.)
Glad to see things are coming back together Joe. ;-T
John Henry
Hey John, thanks for the tip. I was being a bit neglectful... and due to your reminder I decided to remedy that. ;-T It's anti-seize or thread locker on anything I touch. :BEER:
Well, the pile on the floor is getting smaller.. that's a good sign. ;D
Yep yep! :)
Way to go Joe....you might have to change your screen name to "keptup" ;D
One tip....you might want to buy a quality kneeling pad for your knees.....trust me when you get to be +50 years of age your knees will thank you. ;)
That's a fantastic idea. I'm a bit out of funding at the moment, but once this project is "done" I plan on doing a bit of a site survey and seeing how I can improve my work flow in the garage. I'm thinking an adjustable stool, and a workbench is my best bet. Kneeling pad should be a good addition. ;-T
Well firstly, yesterday I decided to try and clean the exhaust a bit more.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00613_compressed.jpg)
Using this wire brush I was able to get spots cleaner, but it's still stubborn with 12 years of caked on bug guts and pitting stainless.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00614_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00615_compressed.jpg)
Today I got some goodies from MI and from some jolly folks in the UK...
The pivot/swingarm cap/cover I've been missing since I bought the bike!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00616_compressed.jpg)
New rubbery tray for the battery.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00617_compressed.jpg)
Rare in the USA as hen's teeth Champion spark plug caps. The stock caps on a V11 Sport. I only needed one, but the shipping was the main cost so I bought three. ;D These are only available from England it seems.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00618_compressed.jpg)
And the longer throttle cable.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00619_compressed.jpg)
Replacing the cap is easy peasy.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00620_compressed.jpg)
Just unscrew, and screw on your new cap.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00622_compressed.jpg)
I even transferred the little labeled collar.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00623_compressed.jpg)
A tale of two pivot covers.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00624_compressed.jpg)
A mockup of the swingarm with covers and inner fender installed.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00635_compressed.jpg)
Battery tray comparison.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00625_compressed.jpg)
Ah, so much better.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00626_compressed.jpg)
To remove the old throttle cable, I had to loosen the fuel pump. It snagged the cable, preventing it from moving.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00628_compressed.jpg)
I was excited about the cable...f&$(
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00627_compressed.jpg)
The cable I got was for a Ballabio, my fault, but I didn't know the Ballabio and later model handlebar V11 Sports have a different throttle setup.
There is this bend and different thread adapter, because the new one uses a throttle cable and a throttle return cable for added safety. Bummer, won't work!
So I did some research and found the only stock cable which would work and is longer is the V10/Centauro cable. Luckily, MG Cycle shows one in stock! SO I made the order and hopefully our friends at MG Cycle will get me one this week. 8)
Let's attack the o-ring for the timing sensor.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00629_compressed.jpg)
Honestly, the original looks OK to me... but let's replace it anyway.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00630_compressed.jpg)
I've been using this stuff on the hot areas, thanks again Zoom Zoom/John.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00633_compressed.jpg)
Woo, stay clean timing sensor and oil pressure sensor!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00632_compressed.jpg)
As an aside, I flushed out the old grease in the driveshaft and it's u-joints. I like Lucas red synthetic... but lets not turn this into a grease thread. ;) ;D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00631_compressed.jpg)
Mocked up the front subframe, now with functional solenoid mounts. The old ones had fallen apart, but Chuck re-glued mine. ;-T Thanks again for all of your help Chuck.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00634_compressed.jpg)
I'm holding off on installing the front bits until my throttle cable arrives.
Time to bust out the red stuff, only using this on one area.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00637_compressed.jpg)
Say hello, to the rotor bolts from hell. Red loctited in there, I'll remember a torch next time. ;D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00636_compressed.jpg)
I had planned on doing more, I did spray down the bike with a more concentrated dose of Simple Green. I then tried to mess with the steering damper, and proceeded to stab myself in the leg with a small pick. :o Ouch.
So I put some antibiotics on my pinholed leg, and made this post. :BEER: I called it a night.
That's all for now folks, hope you are entertained.
-Joe
-
Great work...it's coming along nicely. Here is the knee pads I use. Very good quality pad.
The model 5050 ErgoKneel
Specifications:
Reduce knee trauma and low back stress
Made of heavy, resilient, 1 inch closed-cell foam rubber
Prevents compression setting
Non absorbent
Impervious to petroleum
Self extinguishing and non-conductive
Easy to clean
Size large, 14 in. x 21 in.
Part Number:
5050
(http://cdnl.leadmask.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/512x512/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/0/5050-1-1200x1200_1.jpg)
-
I fin fit really satisfying to see a kid knuckling down and working it through. I have customers who cry like babies if their bike blows an indicator globe.
While the bevelbox is off I'd suggest pulling the pinion carrier and crownwheel plate. The pinion nose bearing is a bit weedy on V11's. Look at the CW&P at the same time. I have a second hand set I'll donate as an 'Encouragement Award' if you need a set. Chuck can learn ya how to set 'em up. ;D
Pete
-
(http://cdnl.leadmask.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/512x512/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/0/5050-1-1200x1200_1.jpg)
:+1
IMHO a kneeling pad is a much idea than knee pads which can actually damage your knees by not centering your weight on the patellas, when in a kneeling position.
How do I know this, building work.
Unkept it must be great to get all those bits replaced you've been needing to for ages.
:bow
Rob
-
Along with the kneeling pad, Sears has a decent and inexpensive shop stool. 30 bucks gets you a stool with wheels that lets you work low and still be able to sit, and roll around.
Boy, once you get things back together, you're not going to know how to act. ;D
John Henry
-
Along with the kneeling pad, Sears has a decent and inexpensive shop stool. 30 bucks gets you a stool with wheels that lets you work low and still be able to sit, and roll around.
Boy, once you get things back together, you're not going to know how to act. ;D
John Henry
Joe, I upgraded to a Matco stool a couple of years ago. You can have my ancient Sears stool.
Good find!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00618_compressed.jpg)
Just unscrew, cut off 1/4inch with your dykes, and screw on your new cap.
FIFY ;D
-
Great work...it's coming along nicely. Here is the knee pads I use. Very good quality pad.
/snip
Thanks! That pad looks like a good idea. I'm thinking about it, believe me.
I fin fit really satisfying to see a kid knuckling down and working it through. I have customers who cry like babies if their bike blows an indicator globe.
While the bevelbox is off I'd suggest pulling the pinion carrier and crownwheel plate. The pinion nose bearing is a bit weedy on V11's. Look at the CW&P at the same time. I have a second hand set I'll donate as an 'Encouragement Award' if you need a set. Chuck can learn ya how to set 'em up. ;D
Pete
Thanks Pete, it's fun to tinker... :)
The offer for a good second hand set of CW&P is fantastic, thanks for the offer of encouragement! ;D Unfortunately, I'm going to have to say that for now I will decline that offer... I'm really set on getting this damn bike on the road yet this season. ;) I would certainly be willing to pull the drive again this Winter, however. If you offer stands then... I'll take it. ;-T
:+1
IMHO a kneeling pad is a much idea than knee pads which can actually damage your knees by not centering your weight on the patellas, when in a kneeling position.
How do I know this, building work.
Unkept it must be great to get all those bits replaced you've been needing to for ages.
:bow
Rob
Thanks for your input Rob. It does feel great to get this stuff done.
Along with the kneeling pad, Sears has a decent and inexpensive shop stool. 30 bucks gets you a stool with wheels that lets you work low and still be able to sit, and roll around.
Boy, once you get things back together, you're not going to know how to act. ;D
John Henry
It will likely feel like a whole new bike... between the ergo changes and the tune-up parts.
Joe, I upgraded to a Matco stool a couple of years ago. You can have my ancient Sears stool.
Good find!
/snip FIFY ;D
Thanks for the correction Chuck. I /snipped the cable and screwed the new cap on this time... :D
Ok guys, today's update is of mixed results. Got a few things "done" and a few things "not done" and a few things "oh crap it's broken." ;D
I had planned to install this today.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00639_compressed.jpg)
Surprise, that didn't happen. ::)
If I had gotten the rear of the bike done, I was going to fit these on the front oil lines too. Didn't happen.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00641_compressed.jpg)
What DID happen is I pulled the bolt which holds the main ground cable to the transmission.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00650_compressed.jpg)
It was kinda crusty down there.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00651_compressed.jpg)
I didn't think that would make a good ground connection, so I did some cleanup with a knife and sandpaper.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00656_compressed.jpg)
I didn't get a before pic, but the place where the ground attaches to the transmission... was half painted! :o When Guzzi sprayed the case they must not have masked it correctly, as crinkle paint covered where the connector is supposed to be touching the metal case... maybe 40% was bare metal. I cleaned up up to be much better. IMHO
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00652_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00660_compressed1.jpg)
I thought I'd try to bleed the clutch, but the hose I bought (and trimmed to size) must be too big, the first I bought was too small. Also, I can't see to bleed the clutch very easily. Any tips?
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00661_compressed.jpg)
Oh yeah, and I decided to mock up my heated grips.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00645_compressed.jpg)
...a nice enough spot.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00644_compressed.jpg)
There was a double sided sticky mount system... or you could use a bracket that came with the heated grips. I decided to bend the bracket and make it work how I like it!
I like it! I'll paint the bracket black someday.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00649_compressed.jpg)
Oh, and I'm using this stuff on parts that vibrate a lot... but don't get hot. ;D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00648_compressed.jpg)
Mocking up the handlebars. I had to fit the tank temporarily to get an idea of where they would hit the tank... be more careful than me please. I scratched the forks finish up a bit. :'( Ah, you'll never see it under that fairing. :BEER:
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00658_compressed1.jpg)
A decent enough spot for this... not many places for it to go actually.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00642_compressed.jpg)
I'll tidy up all the wires with zip ties once the bike is "assembled".
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00643_compressed.jpg)
This is where I really got frustrated! I broke the microswitch trying to remove the front brake line from the caliper... so that I could mock it up for the handlebar setup and so that I could fit the longer brake hoses I bought. Blah, at least MG Cycle has a Brembo microswitch kit in stock!
Also, when I was trying to make sure to "true up" my forks with the front wheel and axle... I noticed how much noise my wheel made when spun. Take the wheel off, find the wheel bearings are notchy. DAMN ;) I'll have to source some and replace those too... ;D
I did take this shot, and even tried to "sit" on the bike to get a feel for the handlebars.... WOW that is different! Very wide and flat, more Griso like. The beauty is though, these bars are adjustable in almost every direction. I can shape them up like clip ons, or almost to a standard bar position. I like the Verlicchis... they look great with Chuck's Norge bar end adaptation. Thanks again Chuck. ;-T
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00662_compressed.jpg)
Also of note, by sanding down those pins on the plastic controls, the kill switch and the turn signal switchgear are a tiny bit loose and could shift. This is because the plastic versions don't create the torque on the bars that the metal pieces do... and on that Chrome it's slippery. I could deal with it but I like safety, so I have a plan to use some of that cloth for grip and wrapping a layer under those control pieces. Stay tuned.
Looks a bit better... now I have more things to order and fix though. ??? :D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5b0Qzek9wLWhyb3c/DSC00664_compressed.jpg)
-Joe
-
Good pics Joe ;-T
-
Hi Joe,
What a thread! You are getting close now :pop
With the Hot Hands, if you haven't already, use a relay for the power source, it'll save you some heart ache one day and it is easier when you are disassembled to this level ;-T
Clutch bleeding, let gravity do the work for you. If you can get the slave cylinder higher than the handle bars or lay the master on the ground so you are pumping air upwards and percuss the hose with a spanner to keep the bubbles on the move and let it set overnight to repeat the bleed the next day.
Regarding the headers, if they are stainless steel, I use hydrochloric acid and paint it on and rinse after 5-10 seconds and it acts very fast then polish with chrome polish or you can leave as is if you prefer the matte finish. Do a test in a non visible area first.
Regards,
Adam
-
Rare in the USA as hen's teeth Champion spark plug caps. The stock caps on a V11 Sport. I only needed one, but the shipping was the main cost so I bought three. ;D These are only available from England it seems.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5ZHlUMHRueDlSclk/DSC00618_compressed.jpg)
Where from in the UK did you get them please? I got some replacements ages ago for my Cali and never fitted the cos I hadn't realised they wern't red untill they arrived ::)
-
http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=80_116&products_id=1286&osCsid=epf38bf57c3e3rpa085tqqp0o6
http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/spark-plugs/spark-plug-caps.html?limit=all
I've always used NGK, same with plugs.
:)
Rob
-
Keep it up! One step forward, two steps back is *not* unusual. ;D You can make stainless steel shine like a pewter dollar if you want to put in the labor. You start with coarse enough wet or dry paper to get a smooth surface, (400 grit, if you're lucky) then sand with progressively finer grades up to 600 grit. From there, you can buff it out on a buffing wheel with rouge. Keep your oily fingers off before getting it hot the first time, and it will turn a beautiful golden color.
Reminds me of work, though.. ;D
-
Glad you spotted the noisy wheel bearing before it ...
;-T
Rob
-
"Maybe" another glitch waiting in the wings.. have you made sure that your new bars will actually clear the fairing? ;D :BEER:
-
Also of note, by sanding down those pins on the plastic controls, the kill switch and the turn signal switchgear are a tiny bit loose and could shift. This is because the plastic versions don't create the torque on the bars that the metal pieces do... and on that Chrome it's slippery. I could deal with it but I like safety, so I have a plan to use some of that cloth for grip and wrapping a layer under those control pieces. Stay tuned.
Rather than cloth, you might try cutting a small strip out of an old bicycle tube to install under the switch assembly. It won't hold any moisture and should prevent movement better than cloth.
-
Good pics Joe ;-T
Thank you, thank you.
Hi Joe,
What a thread! You are getting close now :pop
With the Hot Hands, if you haven't already, use a relay for the power source, it'll save you some heart ache one day and it is easier when you are disassembled to this level ;-T
Clutch bleeding, let gravity do the work for you. If you can get the slave cylinder higher than the handle bars or lay the master on the ground so you are pumping air upwards and percuss the hose with a spanner to keep the bubbles on the move and let it set overnight to repeat the bleed the next day.
Regarding the headers, if they are stainless steel, I use hydrochloric acid and paint it on and rinse after 5-10 seconds and it acts very fast then polish with chrome polish or you can leave as is if you prefer the matte finish. Do a test in a non visible area first.
Regards,
Adam
Hey Adam.
I really want to set it up with a relay, but I have to hold back on it "for now". My plan is to wire in another fuse box that is relayed for all of my accessories... setting it up so they online come on when the taillight is on or similar.
For now, I need to remember to turn the grips off, and hope nobody else comes up and turned them on. :D
Where from in the UK did you get them please? I got some replacements ages ago for my Cali and never fitted the cos I hadn't realised they wern't red untill they arrived ::)
Answered by another, but I got them from Amazon UK, through "The Green Spark Plug". Shipping is the main cost, so I bought three for $21~usd shipped. Not too bad IMO.
Keep it up! One step forward, two steps back is *not* unusual. ;D You can make stainless steel shine like a pewter dollar if you want to put in the labor. You start with coarse enough wet or dry paper to get a smooth surface, (400 grit, if you're lucky) then sand with progressively finer grades up to 600 grit. From there, you can buff it out on a buffing wheel with rouge. Keep your oily fingers off before getting it hot the first time, and it will turn a beautiful golden color.
Reminds me of work, though.. ;D
Thanks Chuck. I have tried 400 grit sandpaper with a lot of elbow grease and that stuff doesn't want to budge. I have 400, 600, and 800 grit plus some polish /small buffing wheel ready... I might do some of the acid trick for the tough spots and then continue onward. *shrug*
Glad you spotted the noisy wheel bearing before it ...
;-T
Rob
Less spotted, more heard/felt. ;) ;D Hopefully the bearings and microswitch will be here before too long... but I'm guessing a week or longer. :-\
"Maybe" another glitch waiting in the wings.. have you made sure that your new bars will actually clear the fairing? ;D :BEER:
(http://www.baronaudio.com/lemans/img_1024.jpg)
(http://www.baronaudio.com/lemans/img_1028.jpg)
(http://www.baronaudio.com/lemans/img_1027.jpg)
I saw these online before I bought them, I think I'll be ok. ;-T Plus they are very adjustable...
I'll update you guys soon. I got the stubborn microswitch free from the brake lever. Had to break it more to free it. ;D
Rather than cloth, you might try cutting a small strip out of an old bicycle tube to install under the switch assembly. It won't hold any moisture and should prevent movement better than cloth.
Wow, that's a good idea. Too bad I don't have bicycles/old tubes. ??? Maybe I'll think along the lines and see what I can find... something else rubbery, thin, and grippy?
Thanks for all input and comments!
-Joe
-
"Wow, that's a good idea. Too bad I don't have bicycles/old tubes. Huh Maybe I'll think along the lines and see what I can find... something else rubbery, thin, and grippy?"
humm - thinking with my other head.....
Mark
-
"Wow, that's a good idea. Too bad I don't have bicycles/old tubes. Huh Maybe I'll think along the lines and see what I can find... something else rubbery, thin, and grippy?"
humm - thinking with my other head.....
Mark
;D
I actually used what you are thinking of on this bike already... to cap off the frame ventilation downtube when flushing out the rusty oil. To fix a Guzzi, you only need a rubber, a hoseclamp, and a copper hammer.
:BEER:
-Joe
-
Hi Joe,
Check this out http://www.fuzeblocks.com as an option to extra fuses and relays. I got onto this through this site http://www.pashnit.com/hayabusa-mods-genII.htm
These guys do some serious touring miles and offer some very good and now tested ideas.
Regards,
Adam
-
;D
I actually used what you are thinking of on this bike already... to cap off the frame ventilation downtube when flushing out the rusty oil. To fix a Guzzi, you only need a rubber, a hoseclamp, and a copper hammer.
:BEER:
-Joe
You have learned well, grasshopper.. ;D
-
Congratulations Joe on many jobs well done.
Recently used a push bike inner tube repair to patch a small split in my seat cover.
Also liked your use of the photo film cartridge.
Fantastic for keeping small amounts of things like grease and small spare bulbs in bubble wrap, when on the move.
:bow
Rob
-
Hmmm, now WG is getting ads for erectile dysfunction specialists.. ;D :BEER:
-
Good work Joe. ;-T If you don't want the Valtek tensioner I'll buy it off of you.
-
Thanks again for the encouraging words all.
Hmmm, now WG is getting ads for erectile dysfunction specialists.. ;D :BEER:
Could be based on search results... *ducking and running* ;) ;D
Good work Joe. ;-T If you don't want the Valtek tensioner I'll buy it off of you.
Thanks Tom! Send me your address and I'll mail it to you. I got it free, you'll get it free. If you want to cover shipping I'll let you know what it costs after I've got it headed to you.
Well guys I tried to do some work on the bike today, but I was tired and not getting anywhere fast. So I used my one day off to relax. ::) :P Maybe tomorrow after work I'll get more done...
Tuesday I should be getting more parts. It never ends!The upper sump gaskets I mistakenly didn't order, and the front wheel bearings (two different sizes on these, I'll explain more when I post pics), and the broken micro-switch for the brake lever.
-Joe
-
Ok guys, got a few things tackled recently.
Firstly, I'd like to show you the different in length between the V11 Sport/LeMans throttle cable... and the Centauro. The fitting are identical and they are a perfect swap if you need some extra length. :)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00668_compressed.jpg)
I don't know about you guys, but I like to use this stuff... ;D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00672_compressed.jpg)
Especially in these kinds of places.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00671_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00673_compressed.jpg)
My theory is that it will give me smoother throttle on/off, and longer cable life. Probably wrong... *shrug* Seemed like a good idea.
My BAD idea was when I was wrenching on the brake line, I broke the microswitch terminal.
To get that sucker off, was impossible without breaking more stuff. The screw/bolt was so soft it just wanted to strip at the head, and the nut was rust welded on for the most part.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00665_compressed.jpg)
So I cave-manned it off. Notice the ball bearing, don't lose that! It's when is pressed onto the microswitch when you pull in the lever. It will fall out and roll into another dimension if you are not careful...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00667_compressed.jpg)
Good news is the guides for the screws here are NOT threaded, so I'm going to take my pic at a hardware store for a set of screws and nuts. MI had the switch, but not the full kit in stock so I'll improve size a bit.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00666_compressed.jpg)
I also thought I'd tidy away part of the heated grip controller, and give them a test.
Double sided sticky tape.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00669_compressed.jpg)
Tucked away.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00670_compressed.jpg)
It's starting to look more "normal". I hooked up the battery to test the grip. WOW those things get hot. ;-T
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00675_compressed.jpg)
I bought this to help my bleeding procedure.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00676_compressed.jpg)
Still feeling like a dumbass because I can't get the thing to bleed though... :-[ WTF am I doing wrong? I'll come back to it...
So I decided to work on removing those bearings. Ewww... my first blurry upload. :D All the tools you need right there.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00677_compressed.jpg)
Using the heat gun, copper hammer, wood to soften the blows, and the slide hammer, I was able to free both bearings fairly easily.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00680_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00683_compressed.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00684_compressed.jpg)
That's a relief, I'll throw the new bearings in the freezer when I get them tomorrow.
The last thing I decided to tackle was the front subframe.
Loctite is starting to run low... ;D Noticed how I've already scratched my newly repainted subframe? Don't wanna talk about it! :D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00685_compressed.jpg)
Got to loctite the monster bolts which hold the damn thing on!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00686_compressed.jpg)
The "short" bolts for the subframe go up top, the fatter longer bolts connect the lower half to the timing cover. Coming together now...Wooooo
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00687_compressed.jpg)
oooooooOOOOO! I decided to hook up a few pieces, I'll have to connect all the connections though... so I'll dig into this again later. Just wanted to get some things "bolted up" to feel good about it. ;D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00688_compressed.jpg)
That's all for now folks. I should get more stuff tomorrow, and I was hoping to get some tiny bits of painting done... but it's been raining and humid on and off all week. :-\
Maybe I'll actually get the clutch bled. Install the wiring bits. Start putting the fairing back together? Dreamin' Big!
Hope you are all enjoying.
-Joe
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Awesome job!
Where did you get those bars? Do you need to lengthen cables and hoses to use them? Sorry if you explained already!
Thanks
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Looking good!
Looks like you will have it ready for the national, at which I hope to see it/ meet the owner!
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Awesome job!
Where did you get those bars? Do you need to lengthen cables and hoses to use them? Sorry if you explained already!
Thanks
He did. I forget what page of the thread.. :D
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Joe....you should have it up and running for the National next month. Wish I could be there. Elkader is a fun rally. ;-T
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Loctite is starting to run low... ;D Noticed how I've already scratched my newly repainted subframe? Don't wanna talk about it! :D
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00685_compressed.jpg)
Got to loctite the monster bolts which hold the damn thing on!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00686_compressed.jpg)
The "short" bolts for the subframe go up top, the fatter longer bolts connect the lower half to the timing cover. Coming together now...Wooooo
There's no danger of them there bolts coming out and I can see why you're running short of Loctite ;D
Joking aside - you're doing a grand job ;-T
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(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00686_compressed.jpg)
You are wasting thread locker, Grasshopper.. (Guzzi content) The amount on the end of the lowest bolt in your picture is about right. That stuff's expensive. ;)
On the clutch bleed.. you may have better luck with a re-purposed turkey baster and pressure bleed it.
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Awesome job!
Where did you get those bars? Do you need to lengthen cables and hoses to use them? Sorry if you explained already!
Thanks
Thank you, I bought the bars "used" but unused from a guy on the V11LeMans board. I don't think anybody would bite at his asking price of $225 or so.... I offered $175 shipped and he took it. ;D
Honestly I don't think you "need" to lengthen the cables and hoses to use them. But I wanted to replace the throttle cable from age anyway, and the clutch hose and brake hoses aren't that expensive.
You can use the Ballabio/Cafe Sport, etc. clutch hose and brake hose for increased length, and the Centauro throttle cable. On the later V11's a return throttle line was used, and the fittings are different.
I should have free range of motion with the extended hoses and throttle cable, which is a nice feature. With the stock lines, you'll be getting close to stretching and that is something I wanted to avoid.
Looking good!
Looks like you will have it ready for the national, at which I hope to see it/ meet the owner!
That's a LONG trip, I'd be humbled to meet someone who rode from Edmonton to Iowa. ;-T My wife has a dream job up there, I hope to meet you and ask about life in Edmonton. :)
He did. I forget what page of the thread.. :D
It is becoming a novel of sorts. ;D
Joe....you should have it up and running for the National next month. Wish I could be there Elkader is a fun rally. ;-T
Thanks, it should be done soon enough! At least as done as it will be for this year. :D Wish you could make it Tom, I wanted to introduce you to my wife Lindsey and chat. Next year?
There's no danger of them there bolts coming out and I can see why you're running short of Loctite ;D
Joking aside - you're doing a grand job ;-T
Yeah, sometimes the bottle just pukes out the blue stuff. Had too much fun in the garage last night. ;)
You are wasting thread locker, Grasshopper.. (Guzzi content) The amount on the end of the lowest bolt in your picture is about right. That stuff's expensive. ;)
On the clutch bleed.. you may have better luck with a re-purposed turkey baster and pressure bleed it.
I know, I know... I'm still learning Sensei. ;-T Thanks for the tip on the turkey baster/pressure bleed. I'll have to figure something out.
Back to work, talk to you all soon.
-Joe
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If you want to be OCD on using the thread locker, wire brush the rust/corrosion, and clean with solvent before applying a small ;D amount.
You're moving along.. attaboy.
Sorry, I used the wrong term.. turkey injector..
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/Lario/001-4_zps04a1a6fc.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/Lario/001-4_zps04a1a6fc.jpg.html)
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Since you won't be working on your bike at the National. You can do some of the fun stuff. Parade, visit the Field of Dreams, National Motorcycle Museum, Gunder burger, St. Olaf pork tenderloin sandwich. etc. ;-T
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Since you won't be working on your bike at the National. You can do some of the fun stuff. Parade, visit the Field of Dreams, National Motorcycle Museum, Gunder burger, St. Olaf pork tenderloin sandwich. etc. ;-T
What is this... fun you speak of? ;) ;D
Well not a huge update, but an update nonetheless! When I came home from work today I passed out and napped on accident for around four hours... but when I woke up I said "bike time" and got to work.
These pictures I took with my new cell phone. They aren't the best, but I wanted to test it out! I'm sure in full daylight it would take great photos.
Thought I'd drop in the new spark plugs I received. I put a tiny (I swear) glob of anti-seize on the threads first.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_204320075.jpg)
I didn't like how one cap looked old, and the other new. So I installed a new cap on the other side, saving it for emergencies.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_220456752.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_220445828.jpg)
Looking at this jumble was almost enough to make me want to switch to points and carbs! ;)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_204334850.jpg)
I scavenged some old electrical stuff laying around and make a ground cable from the regulator to the alternator cover. It's a recommended idea to increase the grounding ability of the regulator... less melting wiring and stuff.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_213408690.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_213400711.jpg)
Now that all of the cables are connected, not yet zip tied though, I thought it was time for the oil cooler to return.
I put two new little o-rings on the bottom terminals. I think the old ones disintegrated... couldn't find them anywhere.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_220425363.jpg)
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_220435934.jpg)
Installing the oil cooler/radiator, on the LeMans there is a fairing bracket to install with the unit. It's allows the fairing to have another anchor point between the valve covers and the front fairing framework.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_220430563.jpg)
Getting there! I have new bearings to install for the front wheel. I'm guessing that Sunday will be my next big Guzzi project day...
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_220515670_HDR.jpg)
Oh yeah, and I took this photo for another thread in which I was mentioned. ;-T
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5TzBhTFRhSHE2Z1k/IMG_20140612_221311262_HDR.jpg)
Microswitch is on the way too... hope you are all enjoying.
-Joe
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Just MHO, you could have found a better ground connection for the regulator. One of the timing chest screws, maybe? You can tighten them up without splitting the plastic.
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Just MHO, you could have found a better ground connection for the regulator. One of the timing chest screws, maybe? You can tighten them up without splitting the plastic.
A good opinion to have. Thanks Chuck, should be easy to fix.
-Joe
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G'day Joe,
What's goin' on?
Things are a bit quiet and I'm looking forward to seeing your ride up and running.
Regards,
Adam
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G'day Joe,
What's goin' on?
Things are a bit quiet and I'm looking forward to seeing your ride up and running.
Regards,
Adam
Good day to you Adam,
Thanks for the message. I did get a few more things done since my last post, but life has been getting in the way with good and bad events! Concerts, family issues, financial issues, job issues, car issues...
I just finished swapping a wheel bearing, tie rod end, and a bunch of front brake components on my car today. *Phew*
Tomorrow I should be visiting Chuck's place for a fly in fish broil party. Should be a good time. After that's over I'll get back to this thread and the bike I hope. I'm antsy to get it done before the national rally!
-Joe
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Well guys here's my update.
I am still feeling stupid and unable to bleed the clutch line. I bought a turkey injector, but am still unable to get a solid connection and pump the fluid through. I think I could fix this... BUT...
I decided to drop the oil pan to install my Roper plate. After draining most of the oil I started to find some interesting bits... copper colored flakes on the mesh oil screen, and a small piece of metal which looks like a piece of a metal ring. >:(
Noticed when looking under there that one cylinder wall and piston looked shiny and new while the other was black with carbon deposit. Piston ring failure maybe?
The copper bits are likely con rod shells right? Oh boy.
Feeling down here gang. :-\ *sigh*
Well I don't want to miss Elkader, so it looks like we'll be Breva riders. It's got better luggage anyways. :BEER: I'll put the trunk on it from the LeMans and do a few tweaks and it'll be ready to go.
I won't give up, but this may put another long delay on my completion. I don't have the money really to rebuild the engine at this point, but I don't want to start it up knowing there are issues.
-Joe
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Good on you for not risking starting the engine. We have just seen a couple of threads about the results of that sort of act. You're doing well, and will have the good results for doing it right.
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Well guys here's my update.
I am still feeling stupid and unable to bleed the clutch line. I bought a turkey injector, but am still unable to get a solid connection and pump the fluid through. I think I could fix this... BUT...
I decided to drop the oil pan to install my Roper plate. After draining most of the oil I started to find some interesting bits... copper colored flakes on the mesh oil screen, and a small piece of metal which looks like a piece of a metal ring. >:(
Noticed when looking under there that one cylinder wall and piston looked shiny and new while the other was black with carbon deposit. Piston ring failure maybe?
The copper bits are likely con rod shells right? Oh boy.
Feeling down here gang. :-\ *sigh*
Well I don't want to miss Elkader, so it looks like we'll be Breva riders. It's got better luggage anyways. :BEER: I'll put the trunk on it from the LeMans and do a few tweaks and it'll be ready to go.
I won't give up, but this may put another long delay on my completion. I don't have the money really to rebuild the engine at this point, but I don't want to start it up knowing there are issues.
-Joe
Oh man, I'm sorry to hear that Joe. That's a real bummer considering everything you have done to your bike thus far. If the sump pan looks anything like mine then your probably right. The con rod shells have started to desenagrate. If you still have the sump off just take the four con rod bolts bolts off and pop off the shells to take a look.
I just got my 32mm socket in the mail so I'll be attempting to take out my crank today and have it at the machine shop this week. I'll also be taking a ton pics too and sharing my experience as well. Depending when I'm done I'll be happy to send you my rear bearing puller so don't bother to buy one.
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Big Bummer on the metal bits. :-\ Appears it needed the Roper plate awhile ago. Where did you get this project bike?
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Good on you for not risking starting the engine. We have just seen a couple of threads about the results of that sort of act. You're doing well, and will have the good results for doing it right.
Thanks. I hope I'm doing it right. ;)
Oh man, I'm sorry to hear that Joe. That's a real bummer considering everything you have done to your bike thus far. If the sump pan looks anything like mine then your probably right. The con rod shells have started to desenagrate. If you still have the sump off just take the four con rod bolts bolts off and pop off the shells to take a look.
I just got my 32mm socket in the mail so I'll be attempting to take out my crank today and have it at the machine shop this week. I'll also be taking a ton pics too and sharing my experience as well. Depending when I'm done I'll be happy to send you my rear bearing puller so don't bother to buy one.
I will do that, and report back. I just don't feel "up" to it at the moment as I'm sorta bummed out. :winer
That being said, how have your talks with Mike Rich went? I may have to speak with him myself.
Thanks for the offer on the loaner tools. We shall see.
Big Bummer on the metal bits. :-\ Appears it needed the Roper plate awhile ago. Where did you get this project bike?
I bought the bike from MPH Cycle a few years ago, it was a higher mileage long distance touring bike and it needed the TLC. I just didn't address it right away.
Whether or not it had these issues developing before or after my ownership is unclear, but I'll assume it's nobodies fault but my own and take ownership of the issue. The oil filter wasn't hose-clamped (my fault), and it could have been a problem. I never have seen the oil lamp flicker on since I've owned the bike however.
Going to try and get the Breva ready for the Elkader rally. We should be there Friday and Saturday for an undetermined amount of time.
I'm already daydreaming of some Mike Rich pistons and more... :BEER: There has to be a bright side to this right?
-Joe
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I've got ya covered for a ride at Elkader! ;-T That way you and Linz can ride together around Elkader. If you want you can slip through my place on the way to Elkader and pick the bike up! Either way, you won't have to ride 2 up at the rally. :bike
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Thanks. I hope I'm doing it right. ;)
I will do that, and report back. I just don't feel "up" to it at the moment as I'm sorta bummed out. :winer
That being said, how have your talks with Mike Rich went? I may have to speak with him myself.
Thanks for the offer on the loaner tools. We shall see.
I sent my heads out to Mike about three weeks ago, I know he had a big project that he had to give priority to so I plan on sending him a email to see how its going and what the ETA may be? I have not been in a rush seeing that I have not taken my crank to the machine shop yet. I also sent the sub-frame out to get powder coated. by chance do you remember which direction the crank bolt comes off ? does it turn opposite or the norm ? After reading your thread today, I don't think taking the motor out will be that much more difficult then what you have already done previously. couple more steps and the motor comes out pretty easy, and does not weigh very much at all.
Keep your chin up, you'll be happy at the end result when its all completed. You'll also be a Guzzi expert too !
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I've got ya covered for a ride at Elkader! ;-T That way you and Linz can ride together around Elkader. If you want you can slip through my place on the way to Elkader and pick the bike up! Either way, you won't have to ride 2 up at the rally. :bike
Thanks for the offer ST, but I think we'll be ok. Lindsey is still a bit iffy on the bike at the moment, so I'm not sure she would want to ride on her own for now. I have no problem riding two up! I enjoy it. :)
I sent my heads out to Mike about three weeks ago, I know he had a big project that he had to give priority to so I plan on sending him a email to see how its going and what the ETA may be? I have not been in a rush seeing that I have not taken my crank to the machine shop yet. I also sent the sub-frame out to get powder coated. by chance do you remember which direction the crank bolt comes off ? does it turn opposite or the norm ? After reading your thread today, I don't think taking the motor out will be that much more difficult then what you have already done previously. couple more steps and the motor comes out pretty easy, and does not weigh very much at all.
Keep your chin up, you'll be happy at the end result when its all completed. You'll also be a Guzzi expert too !
Hopefully your experience is good. Mike sounds like he does excellent work!
Everything was standard thread, and removes the normal way. Just have to lock the flywheel is all, and if you have the engine out you may want to buy a tool to lock things up. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=332&osCsid=d15e7af44bdadc8c539434af54475b48 (http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=332&osCsid=d15e7af44bdadc8c539434af54475b48) I used a screwdriver since the engine was mounted up to the bike.
It shouldn't be too hard to get the engine out, you are right. But I don't have a bench at the moment, and I can't imagine working on the engine on the floor. ;) So I think I'll tackle it slowly and plan for the bench and possible repair costs. Might as well form an upgrade path while I'm at it, hence why I'm thinking about those pistons. :BEER:
I will be happy when its all completed, certainly. Maybe I should do the rear drive and transmission rebuild too? :D :BEER:
In any case, looks like the Breva will be the Guzzi for this next weekend's trip.
-Joe
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I will have my Norge, two Centauros, and a Ballabio at the rally. My offer still stands. We should be easy to find, just off the center road next to the central pavilion there. Look for the Tent Majhal!! ;-T :bike
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I will have my Norge, two Centauros, and a Ballabio at the rally. My offer still stands. We should be easy to find, just off the center road next to the central pavilion there. Look for the Tent Majhal!! ;-T :bike
You are bringing half of the Guzzi's in Iowa to the rally? ;) ;D
We might have to borrow that Norge, Lindsey thinks they are nice looking bikes.
We will be on the lookout for you and your tent!
-Joe
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Bummer, Joe. Keep me in the loop if there's anything I can do to help.
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Bummer, Joe. Keep me in the loop if there's anything I can do to help.
Hey Chuck,
It's all a learnin' experience. Too bad this lesson costs money. ;)
I will keep in touch. I might just have to build the engine to match or exceed the mighty Scura! :o ;D
-Joe
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Hey Chuck,
It's all a learnin' experience. Too bad this lesson costs money. ;)
I will keep in touch. I might just have to build the engine to match or exceed the mighty Scura! :o ;D
-Joe
Education is cheap. ignorance is very expensive! ;-T Your getting an education UK. I'm following your thread with great interest. :bow
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Ok guys, got a few things tackled recently.
Got to loctite the monster bolts which hold the damn thing on!
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5OTdPREl3WVJWUmc/DSC00686_compressed.jpg)
As posted already, that's a lot of loctite, but probably won't hurt anything, a dab'l do ya. However the rusty Snoor washers (like the one on the bottom bolt) should be tossed and replaced with new. They fracture, disintegrate, and leave your bolt held in place only by the loctite. A bolt needs tension against the head to hold parts together.
Nice looking bike.
Tobit.
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I'm using a rubber made table as my bench for my engine rebuild. The motor is pretty light so there shouldn't be a problem using that for your rebuild.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I'm using a rubber made table as my bench for my engine rebuild. The motor is pretty light so there shouldn't be a problem using that for your rebuild.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
great idea!
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sorry to hear about the motor. I usually take car engine cases to this one shop to get magnifluxed and the oil passages cleaned out, for peace of mind plus its cheap.
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Great thread, just went thru the whole thing again! ;-T
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Great thread, just went thru the whole thing again! ;-T
Thanks! Things are home are just in a weird zone at the moment. Don't know when I'll get to resume the project. :/
Rest assured, it will be completed. Just can't say for sure "when" now. Jim at Rosefarm thinks it could be a worn cam follower? Hoping I won't need to touch the crank.
We shall see! Right now I'm getting tired of the Subaru and looking for a fair priced Jetta diesel. The search is not as hard as finding a Guzzi, but it's not easy because I want a very specific year, model, trim, etc. for the right price!
-Joe
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Hang in there, Joe.
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When it's all done you'll be happy you did.. Perfection takes time. I know how you feel ! You'll get'her done 👍
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So I hate to tease, but I just wanted to let my friends on WildGuzzi know I'm still alive...
My wife and I have had a very up and down year financially, and we've both been working a lot. I was working seven days a week for awhile, but thankfully that is over now...
So now that I'm back to five days a week, time is once again somewhat available to me. Money is still tight though, especially now that my second job is gone.
We found a shelf/workbench kit on sale at Menards for $34 so soon I hope to have the garage a bit more organized, and I'll have a place to plop my engine onto to take a look see.
I'm still worried about what those copper bits were. Bearing shells or something else?
Regardless, this will become the first time I've torn down an engine besides a Briggs and Straton in high school. Exciting!
Soon the transmission will literally be the only thing I haven't torn apart on the V11 LeMans. ;D Maybe I'll get into that as well this winter.
My riding season wasn't the grand vision I had for 2014. Lindsey and I may still get a few rides in on the Breva 750. I just don't want to ride alone, and we work opposite shifts most of the time.
My plan is to have the bench complete by next weekend. This weekend is my wife and I's second anniversary in marriage. :) We've been together for around eight years, married two.
Hope my WildGuzzi friends have been well.
-Joe
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best of luck and hang in there.
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I just wanted to let my friends on WildGuzzi know I'm still alive...
I was beginning to wonder.. been checking the obits, but mainly to see if I was in there. ;D
(http://the first time I've torn down an engine besides a Briggs and Straton in high school. Exciting!)
Oh, yeah! I remember my first time.. ;D :BEER:
Hope you and Lindsay are doing well, too. Don't hesitate to ask if you get into a bind, need machine shop experience, etc.
Happy anniversary!
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I was beginning to wonder.. been checking the obits, but mainly to see if I was in there. ;D
(http://the first time I've torn down an engine besides a Briggs and Straton in high school. Exciting!)
Oh, yeah! I remember my first time.. ;D :BEER:
Hope you and Lindsay are doing well, too. Don't hesitate to ask if you get into a bind, need machine shop experience, etc.
Happy anniversary!
Thanks Chuck! Getting married is the best decision I've ever made. We're doing the geeky thing and going to the Ohio Renaissance Festival. :) Should be fun. We used to go together to those kind of things the first few years we were dating.
I will be sure to ask you for help again at some point. ;) If anything so I could hang out with you and Dorcia again!
If things pan out financially, maybe the engine will get a few "upgrades"... ;D
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How was the Shire , hear they have nice weddings there :D Check in a bit more often dang it .
Dusty
Has Chuck been trainin' yah while I was away? :D
We did get married in a botanical garden, close enough! ;)
I'll try my best. I was distracted when I purchased the replacement car... the VW diesel is nice. ;D
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Well my garage is a work in progress... have a pseudo bench up.
My main accomplishment was tonight, removing the engine. That's a heavy lump. ;)
(https://c78547394da2d7f65dab265abc9f105f3f7777c8.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5eWJVcGY4QU81ZTA/IMG_20141104_203408633.jpg)
If all goes well I'll be hanging out with Chuck and Dorcia this weekend while my wife Lindsey is at a gaming convention in New Jersey for her freelance work.
Chuck said he could help me look over the engine in a light tear down. I know there will be damage, I just hope it isn't *too* bad.
Sorry everyone for the slow updates. :(
Edit: Also I apologize for not taking pictures. It's been a late night and I totally blew it off. All bolts came free fairly easily, except one of the lower engine frame bracket bolts. I had to use a lot of penetrate fluid and heat to get it to break free.
You have to free the throttle bodies to get at the top nuts holding the studs for the transmission and engine. I also pulled the front sub-frame for maneuverability. The fairing came off again too... ummm, be sure to disconnect the alternator wires, cam sensor, oil pressure sensor, head temp sensor, any ground wires to your timing case if you have them, oil cooler lines, and engine breather hose and whatnot before dropping the engine.
Maybe I'll take pictures putting it back together. ;D
-Joe
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What's your plan with engine? What you will do?
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What's your plan with engine? What you will do?
Hey!
We are going to tear it down and measure/inspect to see how damaged or worn parts are.
My budget is low but I would like to get an idea of the work required. If needed I may take my time to save up and get some "upgrades" done, but we aren't there yet. ;)
I found copper flakes in the sump, so I *need* to take a good look see.
I haven't forgotten about your request... I'll try to do that as well!
Thanks for your interest,
Joe
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So an update! At long last...
The project took a halt when I found this.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141106_204720495_HDR_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141106_204625351_compressed.jpg)
I was a bit disturbed, and knew this was going to cost me some money... money I didn't (still kind of don't!) have.
So I delayed, and delayed... until I had some free time to free the engine and Chuck said I could swing by with the sad mill.
So I removed all cables, evap hose, transmission bolts and engine mounts. You have to pull the fairing on a V11 LeMans as well to do this. Next Guzzi, buy naked. ;) ;D
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141104_203408633_compressed.jpg)
So, I loaded it into my VW and brought it to Chuck. Who reminds me that he *is not* a Guzzi mechanic. ;-T
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_085307437_compressed.jpg)
So Chuck and I began to dig in. We had the help of Pete/Vasco's advice from here ->http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/gb_en_complex-technical_engine-strip-pictures.htm (http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/gb_en_complex-technical_engine-strip-pictures.htm)
Thanks Pete. ;-T
First we got each cylinder to top dead center and checked compression.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_091350259_compressed.jpg)
Chuck's technique was to watch the valves move as they should both be closed, and on the compression stroke. We watched the valves... used a small wooden dowel/chopstick to find the piston, and looked at the flywheel for the cylinder marks.
"S" is the driver's left cylinder I suppose, and "D" is the driver's right. I always get confused on trying to describe cylinders orientation on bikes...
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_091509442_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_092218112_HDR_compressed.jpg)
We used this compression tester which fits into the spark plug hole.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_091601519_compressed.jpg)
We also had to use handyandy's flywheel locking tool when compressing cylinder D. Thanks Andy!
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_092808282_compressed.jpg)
I can't seem to find the note right now... but compression was "good" on the S side, 78/80 psi I believe. D was not quite as good at 76/80. The issues were that "S" was leaking through the exhaust, and "D" was leaking past the rings into the crankcase, and slightly through the intake. We later learned why the exhaust leak was there on S...
Next, we pulled the upper components of each cylinder. We did this at top dead center on each cylinder, so there was no tension from open valve positions or anything...
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_093304012_compressed.jpg)
Use your valve covers as a storage bin of sorts. ;)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_093545645_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_093610504_compressed.jpg)
At this point we ran into a stud that was frozen solid on cylinder D. Chuck went looking for a breaker bar in his Guzzi Garge™... so I took some pics of the valves using a flashlight.
Exhaust valve S
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_093853378_compressed.jpg)
Intake valve S
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_094006740_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Exhaust valve D
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_093825994_compressed.jpg)
Intake valve D
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_093953277_compressed.jpg)
So I'm already thinking "ugh those valves look nasty..." and a head rebuild is probably in the plans... but onward!
Make sure to pull the head's oil line before removing the head studs.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_095528014_compressed.jpg)
We pulled the rest of the components with relative ease.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_095520843_compressed.jpg)
Chuck had the genius idea of labeling and sorting things properly. Here is the pushrod box idea he had! I'll never forget these ideas... thanks Chuck.
So we label the box for "S" and "D" cylinder, and then for Intake and Exhaust. I was told that the pushrods break into the lifters and the lifter to the cam, so on and so forth... keep them sorted!
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_094536986_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_095935427_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Here is cylinder "D"'s head free! As you can see, the top stud is completely removed... because the end securing nut was frozen solid on there. No big deal, but odd.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_101737065_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Chuck labeled that sucker.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_101804176_compressed.jpg)
We tried to pull the cylinder without going past the piston's rings... but to no avail on cylinder "D".
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_101924428_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_101748743_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Next you have to remove the clips holding the piston pin to the small ends of the connecting rods.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_102126699_compressed.jpg)
This is where I was thinking some damage might be, but the bearings look good. Chuck measured all of the bearings in the engine, and none were out of spec.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_102511159_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_112022828_compressed.jpg)
I'm going to skip the removal of cylinder "S". It was the same process, but I made sure to prevent the con rod of cylinder "D" from knocking around when we switched to TDC on "D".
Also, we used a rubber mallet to free the cylinder from the gaskets. There are two o rings on each clyinder where the base gasket goes, the top and bottom studs. They will need removed and replaced with new.
Next, we remove the con rods.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_130232248_compressed.jpg)
Cylinder "D"'s rod I believe here. It had some scratch/damage but measured to spec. Chuck thinks all bearings and re-usable.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_130241114_compressed.jpg)
The "S" rod looked new...
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_130251098_compressed.jpg)
Now we can peek in on the crank.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_130302115_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_130315022_compressed.jpg)
Not sure what happened to my pics, but we removed each lifter and labeled them for the cylinder and whether it was exhaust or intake. They all looked great.
Now we're really confused as to where those flakes came from. No sign of the damage yet...
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_130756852_compressed.jpg)
We take the front cover and timing components off. Be sure to have your 32mm deep socket. Thanks again Fotoguzzi for letting me borrow yours!
At this stage we began to bag each set of components. Be sure not to lose your oil pump key, crankshaft key, etc. other small parts! The washer for the oil pump pulley was broken... I must have done it I think. :-\
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_132122077_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_132308304_compressed.jpg)
We then removed the pieces of the clutch and flywheel assembly. We used air tools as it helped reduce the spinning effect of the assembly, and made this job much faster! Lots of bolts...
Hmm... more photos that are missing. I might add them later here if I can find them. Basically a lot of bolts and a particular order to the plates, with springs in there as well. collect your parts and bag em'!
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_132824438_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_132903727_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_132923376_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_134144425_compressed.jpg)
Now... in Pete's manual there were some worries about removal the rear main and front main bearings... but in my engine, they popped out with ease only requiring some light taps! No bearing removal tools necessary.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_135515024_HDR_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_135540532_compressed.jpg)
Another good looking bearing surface.
(https://googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_135528037_compressed.jpg)
We pulled the crank out the back, and measured it. All looks well...
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_140103119_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_135422112_compressed.jpg)
Next, we pull the phonic wheel from the cam.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_135853808_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_135841994_compressed.jpg)
We thought maybe the damage was from the cam thrust plate, but it looks new!
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_140600097_compressed.jpg)
Here's the cam, minor wear but nothing bad. Will definitely reuse this...
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_140737108_compressed.jpg)
So we notice some metal grit in the oil sitting below the oil pump. Time for that baby to come out.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_142253945_compressed.jpg)
Oh my.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_142546310_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_142605981_HDR_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_142616907_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_143102831_compressed.jpg)
It was missing a bearing!
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_143412118_compressed.jpg).
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_143424763_compressed.jpg)
See this thread if you want to read more about our bearing mystery->http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=73169.msg1141270#msg1141270 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=73169.msg1141270#msg1141270)
We came to the conclusion that when the engine was last torn apart for a case replacement under warranty, the bearing may have been lost. *shrug* Oh well.
We pulled the front main bearing. Here is the oil passage for it... bearing looks good as well.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_143817366_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_143845182_compressed.jpg)
I find the Guzzi engine design to be pretty on the inside. ;)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_144239130_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Next, we open the crank sludge trap. Bound to be more of that metal shrapnel stuck in there. Cleaning it is a *must* otherwise a rebuild will just remain contaminated.
It was a tight bolt! It was staked in so it wouldn't spin out... it wasn't going anywhere. lol
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_145309156_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Looking in was impossible with focusing the camera, but trust me... it was nasty sludge.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_145734844_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Chuck took the crank over to his clean machine which had water and some crazy solvent to clean steel. You can't use it on aluminum parts though, it would dissolve the aluminum!
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_150326649_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Reset our plug and we have a cleaned out crank.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_144344161_HDR_compressed.jpg)
Now... the only parts we haven't torn down yet are the heads. We wanted to avoid that, but we found the source of our copper colored flakes to be... *drumroll*
BROKEN EXHAUST SPRINGS AND VALVE GUIDE!!! Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner!
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_091837278_compressed.jpg)
Being who he is, Chuck happened to have a valve compression tool he *made* for his Lario rebuild.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_152615712_HDR_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_152818904_compressed.jpg)
Here he is using the chopstick to remove the locking caps from the valve assembly. Don't lose those tiny suckers...
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_152919008_compressed.jpg)
Ouch. We believe a piece of the valve spring went down the heads into the sump and were sucked into the oil pump. Hence the earlier damage seen.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_153050089_compressed.jpg)
The source of the flakes!
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_153057036_compressed.jpg)
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_153430844_HDR_compressed.jpg)
We lightly cleaned out the heads where we saw some contaminate... but they'll need rebuild anyways I'm sure.
(https://df9bc035f0a9888c5e6d5d28bc066afdcbf3b822.googledrive.com/host/0B39jfvTG0FX5QUJJSjU3YTk2QlU/IMG_20141108_154003394_compressed.jpg)
Well kids that's all I've got for now. We boxed everything and bagged a ton of little parts. My engine is now something like 9 boxes of parts. :o ;D
I'm not sure what the cost for headwork and parts will be. I'll likely compile the list of things to order soon. It's been a learning experience for sure...
Hopefully I'll have the bike back together and running by Spring! Only thing left after the engine will be body work and a transmission rebuild. Why stop here? ;)
I'll just be glad to have learned more about the bike in general, and I'm happy if my forum friends are entertained.
-Joe
P.S. My wife and I are entertaining the idea of a move to Germany... if it happens, this bike will sadly go up for sale. I don't know if/when this will happen yet though... but if anyone here might be interested in buying my bike from me please let me know. It would be fairly priced, and once it's done... you'll have a fairly well refreshed V11 LeMans. ;)
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Well, I think the bronze from the guide was what went through the pump. IIRC, we found all the spring parts, although a little no doubt went into the pan. That was Stoddard solvent in the wash tank. No problemo with aluminum..
Goes to show you how robust Guzzi engines are. Fairly high mileage, and everything checks as new. Looking at the leak down, if I was a cheap Guzzi guy, I'd probably reuse the rings. :o
"S" is the driver's left cylinder I suppose, and "D" is the driver's right. I always get confused on trying to describe cylinders orientation on bikes...
Hello? You are looking in the inspection hole at the flywheel. S stands for "Snot dis side." D... "Dis side." <shrug> ;D
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Well, I think the bronze from the guide was what went through the pump. IIRC, we found all the spring parts, although a little no doubt went into the pan. That was Stoddard solvent in the wash tank. No problemo with aluminum..
Goes to show you how robust Guzzi engines are. Fairly high mileage, and everything checks as new. Looking at the leak down, if I was a cheap Guzzi guy, I'd probably reuse the rings. :o
Hello? You are looking in the inspection hole at the flywheel. S stands for "Snot dis side." D... "Dis side." <shrug> ;D
Thanks for the clarification Chuck, and thanks again for the help!
I really *do* like the engine design... I was thinking that if we do move to Germany, my next bike needs to be another Guzzi project.
I want to tear a small block down now. ;D
Oh yes, your S and D identification method does work well! I apologize for not writing it down... ;-T
-Joe
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I thought it was Sinistro as in Left Handed..
as I was reading I'm thinking, boy I hope your planning to keep this bike forever.. so what's in Germany? I know there is a vibrant Guzzi community..
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I thought it was Sinistro as in Left Handed..
as I was reading I'm thinking, boy I hope your planning to keep this bike forever.. so what's in Germany? I know there is a vibrant Guzzi community..
Well... you could spoil the fun and make me translate it. ;) ;D
Left= Sinistra
Right =Destra
Wrenchin' and learnin' Italian.
My wife's family history is in Germany... her potential dual citizenship is German/US Citizen... we've both always been fascinated by the "Old World" so to speak.
The basic concept is that we both would embrace the adventure of learning a new culture and experiencing a new lifestyle.
Also, yes, the Guzzi community there is huge and I think I'd find many events/friends fairly quickly in those circles. ;-T
I could also make it to Mandello del Lario much easier from there... :)
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Thanks for the update....and the good news on the engine. Glad it wasn't way worse. Wish you the best of luck if you and yours move to Germany....I'd love to sample some German beer with ya some day. As far a your V11,I'd sure be interested in it if you make the big jump over the pond. Does your private "not a Guzzi mechanic" come with the bike?? Chuck kudos to you, I'd have to move to Indiana just to get closer to the "not a Guzzi mechanic".
This thread ;-T
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Those pics were excellent ;-T ;D
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Good to see that its finally making some progress Joe!
Hopefully if I'm down that way next summer, I'll be able to see it/ you guys/ Chuck!
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Thanks for the update....and the good news on the engine. Glad it wasn't way worse. Wish you the best of luck if you and yours move to Germany....I'd love to sample some German beer with ya some day. As far a your V11,I'd sure be interested in it if you make the big jump over the pond. Does your private "not a Guzzi mechanic" come with the bike?? Chuck kudos to you, I'd have to move to Indiana just to get closer to the "not a Guzzi mechanic".
This thread ;-T
Thanks! I'll keep you in mind. :)
Chuck has his own Aero Guzzi project he needs to attend to. ;) I should probably stop asking him for help. ;D
Those pics were excellent ;-T ;D
Thanks for the encouragement!
Good to see that its finally making some progress Joe!
Hopefully if I'm down that way next summer, I'll be able to see it/ you guys/ Chuck!
Hey Evan,
Thanks for taking a look. If we aren't gone by next Summer, I'll do my best to meet up with you. It was great meeting you at Elkader!
Well all, so far I might have a source for a good used oil pump... going to contact Mike Rich next week most likely to ask about the head repairs.
We are also meeting some people in Chicago next week about the German thing... a consulate office party and maybe a translator. Exciting.
-Joe
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Joe , are you going to Germany as kind of a hostage exchange for Bill Hagan , just to keep everyone happy ? :D
Dusty
:D Maybe ;D
I received a response from Mike Rich on head repair/freshening...
A little pricier than I can afford at this moment. So I'm weighing my options, and it will probably be delayed until Spring... whatever I do. ;D
Maybe this Winter I'll at least get some of the other parts/pieces together and ready. I'll try and piece together cheap or free (Guzzi content) parts as I can. ;-T
I really wanted to have Mike port the heads... but it can over double the cost so I don't think I'll go down that path. Chuck's Scura *does* sound fun though, but I don't think I can afford to get this engine to match that potential.
Thanks for all of the positive responses! It's been fun for me, both working on the bike and posting about it.
-Joe
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S & D. I always think D is the Driveshaft side.
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I really wanted to have Mike port the heads... but it can over double the cost so I don't think I'll go down that path.
Seriously, you can keep the cost to a minimum by having a shop just install a new guide, and touch up that seat. Lap it in and you're golden. The valves weren't leaking (except that one) on the leak down test...
I'll bet you would be good for many 10 of thousands of miles just by doing that.
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S & D. I always think D is the Driveshaft side.
If you're fluent in ancient Guzzi, S = starter & D = distributor. Although in more modern times D = driveshaft works too.
Howard
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Seriously, you can keep the cost to a minimum by having a shop just install a new guide, and touch up that seat. Lap it in and you're golden. The valves weren't leaking (except that one) on the leak down test...
I'll bet you would be good for many 10 of thousands of miles just by doing that.
Hey Chuck,
I may just have to... I was just let known my pay is being cut 25% for at *least* the month of December...
*sigh*
If you're fluent in ancient Guzzi, S = starter & D = distributor. Although in more modern times D = driveshaft works too.
Howard
Another good one!
*Starts looking for another job*
-Joe
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Unkept,
I've been re reading and enjoying your V11 repair and was wondering how are you getting on and what are your plans for the bike?
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Hey Nobleswood!
Thanks for the comment and question.
Due to financial and time reasons (plus getting into playing guitar a lot in my free time...) I haven't gotten much further from my last post.
I did just receive a good oil pump from Fotoguzzi (thanks!) but I haven't decided what to do about headwork yet.
Plans for the bike... To get it ridable this year I hope. There are a couple things I've left as optional... Steering damper replacement or rebuild, and bodywork. I *might* get some good overtime at work next month, but I have no guarantees... If I do, some of the money will go into the bike.
The Germany move is still super gray at the moment, so the LeMans will be my bike for the foreseeable future.
Though I'm quite happy just riding my wife's Breva 750... But the LeMans with the full exhaust and new pod filters (gonna have to do some GuzziDiag tuning) will likely be intoxicating.
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SOoooooooo....
Lindsey and I are moving to Germany. I haven't finished the bike, just bought some tools to get back to it too...
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=86351.msg1361832#msg1361832 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=86351.msg1361832#msg1361832)
The bike project is for sale, everything included for $2800 obo. We are moving December 4rth! It's all so sudden.
Thank you everyone who posted encouragement and has mentored and helped me throughout the years.
Chuck especially has been an amazing friend during this saga.
I hope to have another Guzzi someday, maybe a V9 in Germany?
Please don't hesitate to make an offer on the bike... the sooner we can clear out of here the better.
-Joe
P.S. This is the view from where we are moving.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/ctDsOv/Garmisch_Partenkirchen_981_RET.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ctDsOv)
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Ahh, just saw this. It would be a good winter project.. somebody buy it so I don't have to. :smiley:
<thinly disguised bump>
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Considering all the parts & all the work already done, it does look like a really good deal.
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Considering all the parts & all the work already done, it does look like a really good deal.
Thanks Nobleswood,
I hope someone will get to me and make a deal... either someone can build a freshened up V11 LeMans or they could part it out / keep the nice bits.
If anyone knows someone looking for one, and can spread the word, I sincerely appreciate it. I have to clear out of here...
-Joe
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I bought Joe's LeMans a few months ago. He loosely assembled it back into a "roller" so we could use HaulBikes. It's been sitting in the corner while I finished up some work on my Scura.
I'm not going to go into as much detail as Joe, but I'll post some updates as I get the bike back in shape and back to stock configuration. After I finish it, I intend to put a couple thousand miles on it and then sell it.
So... Here's how it showed up at my place - with the crankshaft in a saddlebag. :laugh:
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_5471.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_5471.jpg.html)
And here she is as of today:
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_5703.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_5703.jpg.html)
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Magic Presto amazing what a Grenade can do lol. :) I am sure a dozen people will be watching with great interest. No :1: Here. :)
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Wondered what happened to Joe's bike . Onya Scud :thumb:
Dusty
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Wondered what happened to Joe's bike . Onya Scud :thumb:
Dusty
If you're interested, there's a little more to my part of the story over at V11LeMans: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19680
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Well, that was a trip down memory lane. :smiley: Scud, you asked me if I'd serviced the forks and I didn't remember. :rolleyes: It's documented on this thread. I wonder where all the pix went? I don't see any after page 4 or so..
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I assume you enjoyed the trip... Nice job on the forks. :thumb: I hope to ride it within a couple months. -maybe to the Not-a-Rally in AZ. That would be a good, motivating goal for me.
:gotpics: I assume Joe hosted some off-site and links are now broken.
As for the title of this thread... repairs will continue, restoration in progress... The poor transmission is caked with oily dirt from the prior leaks.
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I assume you enjoyed the trip... Nice job on the forks. :thumb: I hope to ride it within a couple months. -maybe to the Not-a-Rally in AZ. That would be a good, motivating goal for me.
:gotpics: I assume Joe hosted some off-site and links are now broken.
As for the title of this thread... repairs will continue, restoration in progress... The poor transmission is caked with oily dirt from the prior leaks.
That's a shame.. he went to a lot of trouble doing all that documentation.. and it was good stuff. Sometimes a picture *is* worth a thousand words.
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I remember when Joe bought that from MPH. I took it for a ride, and if Joe wouldn't have bought it, I would have.
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Hey Scud,
Bars and risers arrived today. Now I know exactly where they came from!
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Hey Scud,
Bars and risers arrived today. Now I know exactly where they came from!
Good to know. Now your bike will have a little piece of a story... and some of Chuck's handiwork. Stuff like that makes it more special. I just like the stock bar position - and all the stock bits were tucked away in the saddlebags.
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time for powdercoating...
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5709.jpg)
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Darth Vader going to get some red highlights now Scud? This will be the most pristine Scura on the Planet!
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No, the Scura is all back together. This is a continuation of Joe's project - his champagne LeMans, which I purchased mid-project when he moved to Germany.
Here is a gratuitous Scura photo: with repainted driveline, lots of powdercoating and other extra darkness:
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Scura/Molto Scura.jpg)
I'm not going to this extreme with the Champagne... (for example, I will not be splitting and repainting the transmission) but I want to freshen it up and enjoy it for a month or two while I try to sell it.
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That's bad to the bone.. :smiley: :thumb:
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Mmmmmm...I wouldn't kick THAT outta bed for leaking oil or eating crackers! Very nice... :bow:
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Mmmmmm...I wouldn't kick THAT outta bed for leaking oil or eating crackers! Very nice... :bow:
Thanks. But I did kick her out for leaking oil - and for blowing bubbles in her engine paint. She was flowing oil out the timing cover, the cam sensor, and the transmission. Messy, messy... but she can eat crackers wherever she wants...
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How do you find time to surf though?
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Tim,
That is a gorgeous picture; real V11 porn !
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How do you find time to surf though?
I have not been surfing enough lately... just 2-3 feet predicted locally this weekend. Maybe I'll get the longboard out...
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That's a shame.. he went to a lot of trouble doing all that documentation.. and it was good stuff. Sometimes a picture *is* worth a thousand words.
I lost the amount of storage I had on Google Drive... I moved them to OneDrive but the links are of course all broken!
I'll try and do a public service and repair the broken links sometime.
Glad to see you revived my thread Scud! I miss the Guzzi, I'm hoping to go see a V7III in person in Mandello this year.
-Joe
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I lost the amount of storage I had on Google Drive... I moved them to OneDrive but the links are of course all broken!
I'll try and do a public service and repair the broken links sometime.
Glad to see you revived my thread Scud! I miss the Guzzi, I'm hoping to go see a V7III in person in Mandello this year.
-Joe
It seemed like the right place to continue the story... although I've been posting more detail at the V11LeMans site. I think there is a pretty active group of V11 owners in Germany. If the V7III doesn't strike your fancy, maybe you can get connected with another V11.
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Progress report....
Powdercoated fuel door. Painted final drive and reaction rod. Steering bearings are shot and need replacing.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5739.jpg)
Transmission was filled with blood-pudding.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5745.jpg)
And I got the engine ready. This engine is from a crashed parts bike I bought a while back. It only had 12,000 miles on it.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5749.jpg)
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Got the powder coating back yesterday. Chasing threads and overspray today...
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5761.jpg)
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5771.jpg)
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LOVE the red! :thumb:
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:1:. :thumb :thumb:. What type of paint?
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It's powercoated candy-apple red. First they bake on a coat of silver flake, then they do a second coat of translucent red. It's so cool in direct sunlight.
I also got a bunch of stuff done in flat black - in this picture you can see lower subframe, foot levers, pegs, rear brake master cover.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5775.jpg)
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(http://thumb.ibb.co/gStOWF/IMG_5791.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gStOWF)
While putting the stock clip-ons back on, I noticed that the LH bar was slightly bent due to a drop. Smushed it back into alignment.
And then got the whole front-end back in order. Felt good to get it off the milk crate and start to stand on her own legs again.
Stripped the bubbling paint off the transmission. This is a known problem with the 2002 V11 bikes, which were subject to a recall and replacement of engine cases due to the bad paint. I'm curious if that was limited to the V11s - or if other 2002 Moto Guzzis had problematic black crinkle paint on the engines.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/dx5Rka/IMG_5796.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dx5Rka)
images free (http://imgbb.com/)
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IIRC ....Bad paint. It was covered under warranty. New owners had the option of a disassemble paint job or a credit for accessories. The dealer's took the brunt of costs. MG was slow in reimbursing for warranty expenses. It wasn't a true reimbursement. The dealers got a credit on future purchases from the distributorship/importer. Anyone can correct. Hard to stay in business when you're financing the manufacturer. :shocked:
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The engine repaint is recurrent theme on V11LeMans.com. 2002 was also the year of other major updates to the V11 series. It's a weird transitional year, but includes two "numbered" special editions, the Tenni and Scura, which are also plagued by a flywheel problem. In this photo, the left block is from Unkept's bike. It was replaced under warranty and did 50,000 miles. On the right, a 2002 block with original paint that only did 12,000 miles (before being crashed). The bubbling gets MUCH worse. The warranty didn't cover the transmission or final drive, which start bubbling and peeling later (assumably due to lower heat).
(http://thumb.ibb.co/g35j5a/IMG_5714.jpg) (http://ibb.co/g35j5a)
temporary image share (http://imgbb.com/)
Here is the repainted transmission and nasty-paint engine from my Scura (which I posted finished pics of earlier).
(http://thumb.ibb.co/iVSLdv/IMG_5511.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iVSLdv)
https host (http://imgbb.com/)
I'm giving this project the same love - getting rid of all the crinkle paint on the whole driveline.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/dGdRJv/IMG_5800.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dGdRJv)
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Major milestone. Got the transmission back together and installed - had been waiting for a couple seals. That was quite an ordeal with the gelled oil. Also rebuilt the pre-selector with new springs.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/euR6mF/IMG_5878.jpg) (http://ibb.co/euR6mF)
upload pictures (http://imgbb.com/)
The Hyperpro shock is near new - it was on my red LeMans, and that's where the Ohlins shock lives now. :grin:
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Your craftsmanship and attention to detail are extraordinary! This is going to be a sweet bike... :thumb:
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Great progress, Tim. Well done!
Shaun
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Here's the before and after of the controls. I'll probably end up prying those Veglias open so I can paint the needles...
(http://thumb.ibb.co/bxYy1F/IMG_5475.jpg) (http://ibb.co/bxYy1F)
upload pic (http://imgbb.com/)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/j7pSva/IMG_5881.jpg) (http://ibb.co/j7pSva)
...and where the proverbial rubber meets the road...
(http://thumb.ibb.co/hM7rMF/IMG_5882.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hM7rMF)
Note to self... when installing a subframe, do the threaded connections first, then the pass-throughs. I buggered the threads on the brake lever pivot (which goes through the porkchop into the subframe.) It's a $40 special part... but a quick trip to my neighborhood True Value hardware store and $5.00 die saved the day.
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I love the red. The flat black sets it off perfectly. :thumb:
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I love the red. The flat black sets it off perfectly. :thumb:
Thanks. I'm pretty pleased with how it's working with the Champagne bodywork too. I test fit the engine today to test the clutch, and took the opportunity to install one of the rocker covers and the alternator cover.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/fWg1MF/IMG_5883.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fWg1MF)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/fQHxva/IMG_5884.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fQHxva)
And thanks to whoever recently posted the link to Stainless Cycle. I bought their stainless bolt kit after seeing that post - it's a great value.
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Here's how she looks in the California sun...
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5885.jpg)
Engine stripping and painting are up next. But now that I see the new covers on the cylinder head paint doesn't look so good - the RH front is flaking. So I ordered some VHT Nu-Cast Aluminum paint.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG-5886.jpg)
A little advice please:
1 - On the cylinder head paint. Does it seem that some scotch-brite pads followed by the aluminum engine paint would be OK - or do these need to be stripped?
2 - From stripping and painting the engine case on my Scura, I know it would be much easier if the cylinders were off. I have not done this before. Can the cylinders be pulled with pistons still attached? And for reinstalling, what's your preferred method of compressing the piston rings?
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Large hose clamps.
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Got the timing chest and oil sump casting painted.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5951.jpg) (https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5951.jpg.html)
And now stripping the engine case. The inside looks brand new. But the outside looks like elephant skin.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5962.jpg) (https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5962.jpg.html)
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Here is the "horror" of stripping the crinkle paint. It's like some gruesome crime drama - with plastic sheeting and duct tape... But the way, the duct tape held up against the paint stripper. I used it as a barrier to be sure I didn't get crud in sensitive places.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/kcDQmF/IMG_5963.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kcDQmF)
how do i upload pictures (http://imgbb.com/)
And here's the "after" picture. Hoping to get this bike running in time for Arizona not-a-rally.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/hZrd6F/IMG_5964.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hZrd6F)
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Looks good. :thumb:
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Keep it up Scud! It's looking great
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A little more progress...
Got the engine in:
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5975.jpg) (https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5975.jpg.html)
And repainted the heads and cylinders:
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5985.jpg) (https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_5985.jpg.html)
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Oh my, that is going together nicely! Can't wait for the formal portrait... :bow:
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Coming along very nicely!!!!! :thumb:
Tom
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Makin' some more progress...
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_6013.jpg) (https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_6013.jpg.html)
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_6012.jpg) (https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_6012.jpg)
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Looking great! I hope one day you get a chance to share these pics with the folks at the Guzzi factory! You'd be an "honorary" employee of Guzzi for all of this amazing work!!
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Roper plate is in... oil is in... and I'm away on business for a week starting today. Hoping to get her running before the end of this month.
(https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_6051.jpg) (https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_6051.jpg.html)
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Roper plate is in... oil is in... and I'm away on business for a week starting today. Hoping to get her running before the end of this month.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6051.jpg) (http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/timscudder/media/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6051.jpg.html)
:thumb: There will be some cheering from Germany!
-Joe
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Looks good. :thumb:
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Well, she's taken her first breath after several years and the oil light went out almost instantly, but she's got a nasty knock.
As a reminder, this is the engine from a crashed bike that I got a while back (not Joe's original engine). I started it briefly before I dismantled the wreck and don't recall this knock.
Here's a video - does anybody recognize this sound? I asked over on V11LeMans too.
http://vid1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6149.mp4
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Check your valve lash? check push rods for straightness, rotate them between finger and thumb while watching them? DonG
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I had the valves at .008" In and .010" Ex. I took it all off again and reset to a bit tighter - .006" and .008"
Here's a video starting on the left, which seems quieter, and moving to the right, which seems noisier.
http://vid1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6152.mp4
I don't know how much oil is supposed to flow here, but it's hard to see since the oil is still golden-clear. Still, it's less oil flow than I expected (but I have no experience to compare against). It's about the same on both sides though. There was an equal amount of oil on the floor on both sides and my phone got splattered just from taking this short video.
Anyway... the metallic noise keeps pace with the RPMs so I do think it's something mechanical.
I'll probably pull the rockers off the RH side tonight for another inspection. Any other ideas appreciated.
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Sounds like the clatter is crank speed? Wrist pin bush loose? Rotor on the crank loose? DonG
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I thought it sounded too long in between clicks to be crank speed, 1000 rpm @ idle is 16 clicks per second and that's what you'd hear if it was at crank speed. Also it sounded off beat in it's rhythm so I'm thinking it's tapped related. Not deep enough for a crank issue. Are you sure there's not exhaust gas escaping somewhere?
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I don't think it's an exhaust leak, I installed new exhaust gaskets. I can feel the vibration with the sound when I hold my palm over the valve cover.
I took it apart again and found this wear on the rocker. Chuck suggested (on the V11 site) that I replace or resurface that rocker arm. Yet the question remains why it was worn that way.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/e8TOTF/IMG_6156.jpg) (http://ibb.co/e8TOTF)
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Notwithstanding that issue. That bike is too good for words, no bullshit you are another Old Jock. It is just gorgeous and I can only hope my Mk 2 comes out half as good. You blokes are a breed, a bit like guys who build their own aircraft. Just special, good luck on your quest to cure the rattle.
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Definitely top end noise? and high pitch?
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Thanks guys. I'm not saying anything is "definite" or ruling anything out - that kind of thinking has got me in trouble before. I might open it up one more time this weekend.
I actually rode it down the block and back. First time it's moved under its own power for a few years. It was good to feel the transmission shifting correctly after the mess I found in it.
Here's an evening *spy-shot* of the not-quite-done bike after her big *adventure* down the block.
[img=https://s3.amazonaws.com/static.fixphotobucket.com/Champagne LeMans/IMG_6154.jpg]
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*drool* :bow:
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*drool* :bow:
:1: :1:
Tom
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Thanks again guys... yeah she's turning into a "looker." But I'm having a little trouble also turning her into a "runner." I've tried all sorts of adjustments and have not been able to get rid of the noise. I'm gonna focus on some other stuff for a little while and I may have to pull the camshaft to see what's going on and if I can find the source of the noise. Further bulletins as events warrant...
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Here is an idea, pull the plug wire off on the noisy side when running, see if the note changes, will eliminate the guessing a bit. DonG
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Top notch build Scud! Hope you'll figure out where the noise is coming from
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Thanks Rick. Sadly, I'm "on hold" with this project for a little while. Getting caught up on deferred maintenance with other vehicles and house - and pretty busy with work - and riding other bikes.
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Just a note of caution. I've read that pulling a plug lead off of a running computer motor is not a good idea..
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Yo Scud, any action on this beauty?
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I kept the thread going in more detail over at V11LeMans.com. The unfortunate ending is that I decided I was throwing good money after bad. So I stripped it and sold off a bunch of parts. I'm holding the Candy-Red bits for a potential future project.
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I kept the thread going in more detail over at V11LeMans.com. The unfortunate ending is that I decided I was throwing good money after bad. So I stripped it and sold off a bunch of parts. I'm holding the Candy-Red bits for a potential future project.
Oh no! I was hoping to swoop in and make you an offer once you had it dialed in!