Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: ITSec on April 14, 2016, 01:34:21 PM
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So the other day, I was conducting my periodic safety self-inspection of the Norge and noticed that the license plate light appears to be out. Simple maintenance item, right? Open up the service manual to get the spec for the replacement lamp, and WTH?
So I open up the owner's manual. And it says:
REPLACING THE NUMBER PLATE BULB
Since this operation is quite complex, have
it performed by a Moto Guzzi Authorised
Dealer.
Please tell me that someone at Mandello del Lario is just trying to create dealer traffic, and there is some way of servicing this simple (or not) issue without tearing apart the back end of the bike.
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No, you're screwed, I'll take it off your hands :boozing:
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The manual should have the specification for the bulb somewhere. Assembly is in reverse order.
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I simply cannot resist the temptation to ask:
"How many Guzzi mechanics does it take to change a light bulb?"
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Make a youtube video for the dealers to follow..... :boozing:
(all in jest, not to disrespect the good dealers out there.... :D )
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I believe that the tail light is LED [many lights]which means you would probably need to replace the whole assembly. I have not referenced the manual yet but did peruse the assembly while I was adding a lighted license plate frame to improve visibility. I have a feeling it may not be cheap. Check wiring and fuses first, the LED's are supposed to be long life.
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Just looked it up at Harper's and for only $162.00 and some change you can be the proud owner of a new tail light assembly. How hard could it be to replace?!
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When I made my Ninja 250 into a standard recently, I used one LED module of out one of those decorative under-vehicle LED strings. Each module is self-contained and will run on 12v. It has two mounting holes in it, so I screwed it to the bottom of the tail light assembly, aiming at the license plate. It should be straightforward to so something similar to any motorcycle that needs a license plate light. The thing is so bright that in addition to lighting the plate, it adds greatly to the bike's nighttime rear visibility.
If this is of any interest to you, let me know and I'll post a photo or two.
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Well then, definitely no hiding your license plate from the coppers. :copcar:
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The manual should have the specification for the bulb somewhere. Assembly is in reverse order.
Nope. Neither the service manual or the owners manual have the specification. Disassembly (based on the parts manual) appears to require removing the rear wheel, removing the inner shield of the rear fender, and then removing two nuts that hold captive bolts from the light cover. Removing that shield plate appears to be a bit messy in itself, let alone the rest of this process.
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I believe that the tail light is LED [many lights]which means you would probably need to replace the whole assembly. I have not referenced the manual yet but did peruse the assembly while I was adding a lighted license plate frame to improve visibility. I have a feeling it may not be cheap. Check wiring and fuses first, the LED's are supposed to be long life.
The tail light is fine - the license plate light is the issue, and it's actually harder to get at from what I can see. Other items on the same circuit are fine.
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When I made my Ninja 250 into a standard recently, I used one LED module of out one of those decorative under-vehicle LED strings. Each module is self-contained and will run on 12v. It has two mounting holes in it, so I screwed it to the bottom of the tail light assembly, aiming at the license plate. It should be straightforward to so something similar to any motorcycle that needs a license plate light. The thing is so bright that in addition to lighting the plate, it adds greatly to the bike's nighttime rear visibility.
If this is of any interest to you, let me know and I'll post a photo or two.
I thought about doing that, but I'd rather just replace the existing bulb with an LED unit inside the housing. Problem is that getting into the housing looks almost as bad as doing the clutch!
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You'll need to crab the frame to get it out. :grin:
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Call me stubborn, but I would not put up with such stupidity. It would go back together in some other more reasonable form. I'm not afraid of cutting, welding, fabbing, wiring for simplicity. 162 bucks for a stinking tail light is pure robbery BS.
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Spoken like a true red suspender guy.
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or you could,....just....... forgetaboutit ...... :smiley:
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You'll need to crab the frame to get it out. :grin:
Cruel, John, very cruel (he said, laughing!)
Ralph
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Call me stubborn, but I would not put up with such stupidity. It would go back together in some other more reasonable form. I'm not afraid of cutting, welding, fabbing, wiring for simplicity. 162 bucks for a stinking tail light is pure robbery BS.
To be clear, what I'm talking about is less than $12 from Harpers. It is the license plate light, NOT the tail-light running/brake twin circle LED set. What is getting my goat is that it appears I need to spend several hours labor (at least two, maybe more) to get at a $12 wire and a $2 bulb.
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To be clear, what I'm talking about is less than $12 from Harpers. It is the license plate light, NOT the tail-light running/brake twin circle LED set. What is getting my goat is that it appears I need to spend several hours labor (at least two, maybe more) to get at a $12 wire and a $2 bulb.
That seems outrageous.... its this kind of poor design that keeps me on the old tontis... I think you can get to the clutch within two hours if you're well prepared and no nightmare rusted bolts..
hope you find a simple and time-efficient solution
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The tail light is fine - the license plate light is the issue, and it's actually harder to get at from what I can see. Other items on the same circuit are fine.
Just out of interest,my tail light had about 5 blown LED's so I thought I'd replace them before shipping the bike O/S. Well I found that the tail light is a sealed unit so ordered a new unit. $264 Australian and they couldn't supply the red lens for the '07 Norge so I had to get the clear one,it looked pox on the red bike so I GENTLY detached the red lens from the rooted one and after removing the clear lens from the new one, glued the old red lens to the new clear lens body.....Bloody hell !!!!!
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Nope. Neither the service manual or the owners manual have the specification. Disassembly (based on the parts manual) appears to require removing the rear wheel, removing the inner shield of the rear fender, and then removing two nuts that hold captive bolts from the light cover. Removing that shield plate appears to be a bit messy in itself, let alone the rest of this process.
As I was putting the 750 Breva back together, getting a t the connectors was a bit tight. I can remember at the time thinking that removing the tail light could be a bit poxy. Luckily in the 14 years I have owned it it has never blown the bulb, so I don't know how hard it is to get out........ :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
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I buy tail light/brake light bulbs by the box.. they're *much* cheaper that way, and the soothing vibrations of a Guzzi eat them alive. :smiley:
I would say that if your license light bulb isn't an LED, when I did whatever it takes to get to it, I would put one in.
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To be clear, what I'm talking about is less than $12 from Harpers. It is the license plate light, NOT the tail-light running/brake twin circle LED set. What is getting my goat is that it appears I need to spend several hours labor (at least two, maybe more) to get at a $12 wire and a $2 bulb.
[/b]
...I think this is what some refer to as " character ".....
Just gotta love the thought process that went into design process.
kjf
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The Griso manual also recommends dealer replacement of the license plate bulb. I've done it two or three times now, and it takes removing 8 or 10 screws and associated plastic under the fender, but it doesn't require removing the rear wheel! I'd get in under the fender with a flashlight (or headlamp) and get it done. The Griso's bulb is a 168LF, 4.8 (or 5) watts, wedge base.
Maybe your Norge is the same.
I think I'll order an LED replacement for the next time, as Chuck suggested. http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-2825-Premium-White-Miniature/dp/B00AIJY2ZM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-2825-Premium-White-Miniature/dp/B00AIJY2ZM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
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To be clear, what I'm talking about is less than $12 from Harpers. It is the license plate light, NOT the tail-light running/brake twin circle LED set. What is getting my goat is that it appears I need to spend several hours labor (at least two, maybe more) to get at a $12 wire and a $2 bulb.
Learned yet? Asking a question guarantees it won't be read and the answers will be as far from the solution as possible.
For the 8V bikes, look underneath and you'll see two bolts that are difficult to get at. Loosen them. It appears that the light will then slide backwards and off. I have not taken mine apart yet so its just from looking.
You were perfectly clear in your OP.
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A buddy has an older Mazda pickup (Ford Ranger) and for astronomy reasons wanted to replace the light above the truck bed with a red one. Turns out thou shall not touch said bulb without risking great evil upon the electrics of the pickup. Dealer only. I forget the gory details but it was something on the order of loosing all the programing in the ECU or some such nonsense.
So he has not touched the bulb.
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Installed equipment shall be operational . I got stopped and thoroughly investigated one night because of an inoperable liscence plate light. Somerset, WI speed trap city.🚔🚨 :clock:
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For the 8V bikes, look underneath and you'll see two bolts that are difficult to get at. Loosen them. It appears that the light will then slide backwards and off. I have not taken mine apart yet so its just from looking.
Unfortunately, for the 2-valve bikes (like mine) there is a nice protective panel that covers those bolts, the wiring runs, and all that other stuff. The panel has to be removed first, and from looking at it, it will mean removing the wheel in order to remove the panel.Once done, the procedure is as you describe from what I can see in the diagrams.
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Installed equipment shall be operational . I got stopped and thoroughly investigated one night because of an inoperable liscence plate light. Somerset, WI speed trap city.🚔🚨 :clock:
I also have been stopped for a rear light being out (some years ago). :copcar: It meant a long review of all the equipment on the bike, repeated questions of whether I had had anything to drink, and after 30 minutes a warning citation that required me to stop by a police station within a week to prove the problem had been fixed.
Thus my desire to address this otherwise minimal issue, in case I run into another LEO with similar concerns for safety and maintenance. :angel:
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Learned yet? Asking a question guarantees it won't be read and the answers will be as far from the solution as possible.
For the 8V bikes, look underneath and you'll see two bolts that are difficult to get at. Loosen them. It appears that the light will then slide backwards and off. I have not taken mine apart yet so its just from looking.
You were perfectly clear in your OP.
That's not true at all. I said:
I buy tail light/brake light bulbs by the box.. they're *much* cheaper that way, and the soothing vibrations of a Guzzi eat them alive. :smiley:
I would say that if your license light bulb isn't an LED, when I did whatever it takes to get to it, I would put one in.
and then Moto said:
The Griso manual also recommends dealer replacement of the license plate bulb. I've done it two or three times now, and it takes removing 8 or 10 screws and associated plastic under the fender, but it doesn't require removing the rear wheel! I'd get in under the fender with a flashlight (or headlamp) and get it done. The Griso's bulb is a 168LF, 4.8 (or 5) watts, wedge base.
Maybe your Norge is the same.
I think I'll order an LED replacement for the next time, as Chuck suggested. http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-2825-Premium-White-Miniature/dp/B00AIJY2ZM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
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On my Norge, Moto International did not need to remove my rear wheel. Instead, they simply loosened the plastic shroud that serves as a fender under the seat. Once it was loose, it dropped down several inches, so the mechanic could snake an articulated tool up into the bowels of the Norge to loosen those two hidden nuts.
It did not take two hours, but it probably took one hour...
Why couldn't Moto Guzzi have used captive bolts facing rearward, with the nuts easily accessible from the license plate light area?
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Learned yet? Asking a question guarantees it won't be read and the answers will be as far from the solution as possible.
For the 8V bikes, look underneath and you'll see two bolts that are difficult to get at. Loosen them. It appears that the light will then slide backwards and off. I have not taken mine apart yet so its just from looking.
You were perfectly clear in your OP.
Woops that's embarrassing, I fell for that one. As soon as I read about the licence plate post I just blurted out my sad story, although it may help someone in the future. BTW how are you Norgie ? Always good to read your posts, a bit like a steadying hand on the rudder. Haaarrrr!
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That's not true at all. I said:and then Moto said:
Why did you think what I said had anything to do with what you said?
It didn't. More like a general observation.
Now back to our original programming where tail lights are the same as license plate lights and ...
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Often in these situations, you can drill a strategic hole or two to make the process easier for next time.