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The manual should have the specification for the bulb somewhere. Assembly is in reverse order.
I believe that the tail light is LED [many lights]which means you would probably need to replace the whole assembly. I have not referenced the manual yet but did peruse the assembly while I was adding a lighted license plate frame to improve visibility. I have a feeling it may not be cheap. Check wiring and fuses first, the LED's are supposed to be long life.
When I made my Ninja 250 into a standard recently, I used one LED module of out one of those decorative under-vehicle LED strings. Each module is self-contained and will run on 12v. It has two mounting holes in it, so I screwed it to the bottom of the tail light assembly, aiming at the license plate. It should be straightforward to so something similar to any motorcycle that needs a license plate light. The thing is so bright that in addition to lighting the plate, it adds greatly to the bike's nighttime rear visibility.If this is of any interest to you, let me know and I'll post a photo or two.
You'll need to crab the frame to get it out.
Call me stubborn, but I would not put up with such stupidity. It would go back together in some other more reasonable form. I'm not afraid of cutting, welding, fabbing, wiring for simplicity. 162 bucks for a stinking tail light is pure robbery BS.
To be clear, what I'm talking about is less than $12 from Harpers. It is the license plate light, NOT the tail-light running/brake twin circle LED set. What is getting my goat is that it appears I need to spend several hours labor (at least two, maybe more) to get at a $12 wire and a $2 bulb.
The tail light is fine - the license plate light is the issue, and it's actually harder to get at from what I can see. Other items on the same circuit are fine.
Nope. Neither the service manual or the owners manual have the specification. Disassembly (based on the parts manual) appears to require removing the rear wheel, removing the inner shield of the rear fender, and then removing two nuts that hold captive bolts from the light cover. Removing that shield plate appears to be a bit messy in itself, let alone the rest of this process.
For the 8V bikes, look underneath and you'll see two bolts that are difficult to get at. Loosen them. It appears that the light will then slide backwards and off. I have not taken mine apart yet so its just from looking.
Installed equipment shall be operational . I got stopped and thoroughly investigated one night because of an inoperable liscence plate light. Somerset, WI speed trap city.🚔🚨
Learned yet? Asking a question guarantees it won't be read and the answers will be as far from the solution as possible. For the 8V bikes, look underneath and you'll see two bolts that are difficult to get at. Loosen them. It appears that the light will then slide backwards and off. I have not taken mine apart yet so its just from looking.You were perfectly clear in your OP.
I buy tail light/brake light bulbs by the box.. they're *much* cheaper that way, and the soothing vibrations of a Guzzi eat them alive. I would say that if your license light bulb isn't an LED, when I did whatever it takes to get to it, I would put one in.
The Griso manual also recommends dealer replacement of the license plate bulb. I've done it two or three times now, and it takes removing 8 or 10 screws and associated plastic under the fender, but it doesn't require removing the rear wheel! I'd get in under the fender with a flashlight (or headlamp) and get it done. The Griso's bulb is a 168LF, 4.8 (or 5) watts, wedge base.Maybe your Norge is the same.I think I'll order an LED replacement for the next time, as Chuck suggested. http://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-2825-Premium-White-Miniature/dp/B00AIJY2ZM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER